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Drftn280zxt

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Posts posted by Drftn280zxt

  1. As mentioned before, you are going to be looking for wheels in the zero offset range (rare to find). Problem is that most cars on the road are front wheel drive. I can pretty much gurantee you to fill the stock fenders you will need a wheel with negative offset. The magic number that you need to match is 4.5" of backspacing. From my research and understanding 17x8 will fit pretty comfortably. The 17x 9 in the back may bulge out a little past the fender without the proper offset.

     

    Here is what I reccommend you do (sorry about the length).

    1. With the Swastikas on measure the distance from farthest outside edge of the wheels to the outside edge of the fender.

     

    2. Now take one of your Swastika wheels off your car. Measure from the mounting surface of the wheel (the part that physically touches the flat part of the hub) to the inside most edge of the wheel. This is the backspace of that wheel.

     

    To clarify offset. First a few tid bits about wheel sizing. When wheels are advertised a specific size like 17"x 9" that width does not account for the widths of the flanges. All wheels are one inch wider than advertised. A 9" is actually 10" wide, an 8" is actually 9", etc.

     

    3. So now measure the overall width of the swastika.

     

    4. Now add that width and the distance you measured with the wheel on (from the outer most edge of the wheel to the outer most edge of the fender). This will be an approximate overall width for the new wheel.

     

    5. Round that number to the nearest half inch.

     

    6.Divide that number by two.

    This is the location of the centerline of the new wheel.

     

    7.Now to determine offset. Take the measurement for backspacing of the swastika wheel and subtract the centerline number you just calculated (this will probably be negative).

     

    8. That number is in inches and offsets are typically shown in millimeters. So now take the offset (in inches) and multiply that by 25.4 and there is your offset of your new wheel.

     

    9. Note when ordering the new wheels remember to subtract one inch from the OVERALL width of the new wheel, which you just calculated. That inch will be accounted for in manufacturing the wheel (remember the flanges are 0.5" and there is an inside and an outside).

     

    I hope that helps in your wheel endeavors. Unfortunatley sizing tires is not as simple. A rough guide would be to convert the overall width of the width from inches to millimeters. The lower the profile the closer to the overall width you should be. As the profile of the tire becomes larger you can enlarge the width of the tire.

     

    -Sean Birnbaum

  2. Very nice progress. You really are taking after the ideas I have proposed for my car, minus twin turbos. Are the tubes on that manifold equal length? Of so that is crazy. 3.0L! are you going to do the stroker kit that utilizes the LD28 crankshaft from the diesel maxima? IMO with a turbo that large it seems like it might be a wise investment to bore and sleeve the block. That way it can handle insane boost safely. Also are you having a custom intake manifold made as well?

     

    BTW which one of my designs did you settle to base your Z off of, just curious?

    How much are they charging you to build this insane widebody?

  3. I'm gonna go with no. As it stands the 280zx has 15x6.5 rims with "0" offset. If I am not mistaken that leaves you with about an 1" of clearance from the spring/strut assembly. You could probably get away with +5 offset. But with the 15x7 and +13 offset I am gonna say know. One solution would be to get spacers. I am not exactly sure why you want rims with those specs. I would think if you are going to get new rims that you would want ones that eliminate the "sunken battleship" look. I think your best bet would be some 15x8" rims not exactly sure what offset to use though.

     

    Here, do all of us 280zx owners a favor (PLEEEEASE :D ). Measure you stock wheel

    (width ways edge to edge). Then with the wheel on the car measure the distance between the edge of the wheel and the spring/strut assembly. Then measure from the inside mounting surface of the wheel to the inside most edge of the wheel (closest to the middle of the car edge). From there we can determine possible wheel fitments, backspacings, and offsets. I do know for a fact that a 15x8 wheel will give a nice flush (with outside of fender) fit, I am just not sure what the magic offset is. With these specs I could probably give you a realistic number to work with though.

  4. Well it is true that I have to go to college in a week. I will not be able to get on very much at all until I get back in December. I have learned so much from so many of you.

     

    I am in the same boat as you. Going into my Junior year studying mechanical engineering.

    I agree with the other guys, there is no bye, I check the status of everyones projects nearly religiously. I don't think I can go a week without looking at some hybrid Z car other than my own :wink:. Best of luck to you in this semester's studies, and to everyone else also in school this fall!

     

    Hey look at the bright side, while we study hard the weather cools and the turbos really start to look (and act) very happy.

  5. Alright I need some help from one of you photoshop guys.

    What would a 5Zigen FN01R-C like this

     

    fn01rc_hypblk_600.jpg

     

    look like with a 5" rolled polished lip?

     

     

    What would a Rays TE37 like this (with gunmetal gray spokes)

     

    le37b.jpeg

     

    look like with a 5" rolled polished lip?

     

    What would a Gram Lights 57Pro like this

     

    pro.jpeg

     

    look like with a 5" rolled polished lip?

     

    What would a Axis Hiro like this

     

    axis_hiro_anthracite.jpg

     

    look like with a 5" rolled polished lip?

     

    and the last one

     

    What would a Bee-R B5 wheel like any of these (with gunmetal center)

     

    stegea1.jpg

    red1001.jpg

    fd3s01.jpg

     

    look like with a 5" rolled polished lip?

     

    I am brainstorming but my drawing abilities are faltering to create what I am asking to see.

     

    I would appreciate the help. I am trying to a design a simply awesome wheel that presently does not exist and that would perfectly compliment "widebodyz"

  6. I agree with you on the 7-11 degree range. My idea was this. Have the majority of it at the proper angle and then about a foot or so from the back let the angle hike up, at a smooth curve. Does that drop effectiveness?

     

    Kinda like this, its crude but you'll get the idea

    imagine this is the side view

     

    00000000000000000000000000000000000000000/ |

    0000000000000000000000000000000000000000 / |

    000000000000000000000000000000000000000/ |

    0000000000000000000000000000000000000-- /

    000000000000000000000000000000000 ---- /

    00000000000000000000000000000-------- /

    ------------------------------------- -------------

  7. Here is another sketch. Kind of a three quarter view. I should have another ready here in a day or so, at a lower viewing angle.

     

    Threequartershot.jpg

     

    oh yeah here are these they both accentuate the rear diffuser and the BRE styled wing has been widened as you guys reccommended

     

    rear4.jpg

    rear3.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. I suppose I could send them pics of what I have conjured up for the 280zx and 240Z. Although they would be up to there teeth in work. Considering that custom doors would have to be made and well and custom front/ rear bumper supports. And what incentives are in it for me is a big matter. A discount isn't exactly inviting. It would have to be a small profit for every kit sold, acknowledging the fact that I designed it. I'm not to fond of the idea of someone else cashing in on my designs without something in it for me.

  9. actually the rear diffuser/splitter is there in the drawing it just isn't colored. I dunno about a whale tail. Depending whether or not I can design a nice JGTC airfoil to fit the ZX, I personally would rather have the airfoi,l but if the airfoil simply just won't look good than the larger BRE spoiler would do. Both look awesome I have to agree. I need to take some pics of my ZX in order to get a scale drawing in the front and rear 3/4 view as that will definitely detmine a lot of things in the overall design. Also I still need to complete my scale model which is in the works just need to complete the exterior, the interior is nearly finished.

  10. Alright these are new scale drawn rears of a 280zx with my designed widebody.

     

    Now feedback on the widebody itself is good but what I am most interested in is which wing/spoiler do you like best. I am a bit stuck both look good. One is old school styled (BRE) and functional; the other, very modern, and very functional and JGTC (Super GT) inspired.

     

    rear1.jpg

    rear2.jpg

  11. The wing has to go. Interior...bad! Rear additives chunky and lack curves to compliment the Z's contours. Didn't realize how flat the sideskirts were. Not feel'in the nonfuctional side vents. Hate the front bumper thingy, love that front fascia. A bit ricey, needs coilovers, definitely worth a clap or two, and that is my consensus.

  12. As far as bolt'em parts goes nope, haven't heard of anything. Pretty much anything would be new an unique. Sadly not many people want to modify 280zx's, shame they have so much potential. There are a few people on this forum that have done custom jobs. I know frank280zx is doing a custom R32 Skyline taillight install that is looking pretty good. Another guy custom fit new Mustang taillights to his 280zx for a more flush look and that also turned out quite nice. Sorry if this doesn't help, but hey it will give you ideas nonetheless.

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