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Drftn280zxt

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Posts posted by Drftn280zxt

  1. is there a real wheel you have picked out like that by the way? they are pretty cool

     

    There some rims that are close like 5Zigen FN01R-c, but they don't come with width customizing options, not forged, and not rolled lip option.

     

    Here is the 5zigen wheel

    FN01RC-AS.jpg

    17x10RC3.jpg

    The GRAM Lights T57-RC, lightweight but no rolled lip option as they are 1 piece rim.

    t57rc.jpg

     

    The GRAM Lights 57-pro

    57prormc2.jpg

     

    Pretty close, but I wish the spokes had a more aggresive taper, and were a bit skinnier, like the 5Zigen's do/are. These are the best match thus far.

     

    The VOLK RACING SF- Challenged (fine forged)

     

    rmcchallenge2_s.jpg

    350zchallengegoldl_s.jpg

     

    This wheel has the ideal spoke thickness but also lacks the aggressive taper

    that is closer to the 5Zigen and the 57-pro

     

    One other wheel that I know little about (quality ways) but looks really good is the this Bee-R B5 wheel. It is absolutely gorgeous but it doesn't appear to come with a lip option let alone a rolled lip option (plus If I'm not mistaken they are cast (strike one), they are limited to 9.5"wide (strike two) . The spoke layout is awesome though.

     

    BeeR.jpg The wheels on the R34

     

    nsxwh03.jpg

    nsxwh01.jpg

    11006.jpg

     

    Another that is gorgeous but lacks the spoke taper is the I-forged AERO

     

    aero.jpg

    The great about this wheel is that it is fully customizable (with the exception of the overall design).

     

    Yet another wheel is HRE's 840R series. The spokes lack the aggressive taper.

    845R_lrg_a.jpg

     

    That is about all I have found, and I not 100% satisfied with any of them. I'm just too picky :lol:

  2. but i would steer clear of the fast and furious non-functional air scoops most body kits incorporate into the rear of the rocker panels

     

    With the wheels being as wide as they would be, and the brakes being "tucked" in so far. It seems to me a vent would be kinda necessary to allow proper cooling. You are correct about how the vent would have to angle in. Of course it would angle is A LOT to allow as much air in to cool the rear brakes.

     

    the front part of the side skirt looks like it is wider than the stock fender

     

    Do you mean wider than the widened front fender? The sideskirts would be wider than the STOCK fender, but they would FLUSH with the wide fender.

     

    if you have to have a little vent there, i would rather see it behind the rear wheel to vent out some of the air that gets trapped there

     

    Hmm, I never thought about that. You bring forth a good point. If I did have the vent to allow cool air in to cool the brakes, I would need a way to let that air out. This is an interesting conundrum, WHY? Because I don't want any hole/vents in the rear quarter panels. Hmm

     

    are you planning to shave the door handles, or are you going to try and space them out to where they would have to be in order for you to extend your fender into the door like you have it?

     

    Going to try to space them out to match the new widened portion of the door. Far easier said than done I'm sure :(

  3. what's the corner window? The lines of the body would be perfectly intact it just that they will extrude out further towards you. Here is the funny thing a 4" widening in the rear really doesn't look all that much wider when you walk out to the car envision it, it is very subtle widening.

     

    The rear quarters have a "shoulder", that would not change. Then there is that "crease" that run the whole length of car. From the bottom of the "shoulder" to that "crease" is where the extrusion would take place. Make sense? Same lines just extruded out further from the body.

  4. I like the steeper rake but I don't like the larger side window. Try rake out the windshield but leaving the side window the same. The third one minus the front end from afar looks a lot like a Z31's lines. I can't agrue against a widebody though.

  5. To answer that question, the most HP out of an L28ET that I have heard of was ~650HP. The car was built by Mid Night Racing. Here is the link to the car.

     

    http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=216

    Unfortunately you have to be a member to read the article. My friend is a member and that is how I got the info, but that was a while ago. I know for sure though that almost nothing is stock anymore in it, plus it has water injection.. and a huge long list of stuff that I don't remember. But it is feasible. I believe it was running 20-somthing PSI of boost (hence custom intake manifold...yadayadayada... a ton of custom stuff)

     

    Sorry about the vagueness, that 650hp number is the one thing that stuck out like a sore thumb along with the custom body work back when I originally read it.

  6. that was a bleed through mistake. The picture I modified is on the other side of the paper (printed) I accidentaly drew in the gas cap with out realizing the car would flip sides on the other side...OOPS :lol: I knew someone would eventually catch that mistake.

  7. exactly, that is what I am thinking. I trying to bring it up to present times and make a force to reckon against. The power output is far from what I want. And for what I want the whole widebody is almost a necessisty (sp?) in order for it to be worthwhile. All or nothing, I want the all :wink:

  8. This isn't a YZ job, nor is it a 240Z. Its a custom widebody projection for the 280zx, rarely sought after car to modify. Just thought I'd fill you in because I think your little confused.

     

    I wouldn't doubt driving a 928 is something else, after all it is a Porsche, just not the best looking one, kinda like the boxster...yikes maybe more flames.

     

    Thanks for the compliment on my education. I've never been one to give up, even when the times get tough (my grades stand to prove that cough 3.9gpa cough); just stating the facts :wink: That is getting off topic though.

  9. Bolts Pattern: 4/5x114.3/100 Size: 15

    This will definitely work.

     

    Width: (F) 8J ® 8.5J Offset: (F) 0mm ® -5mm

    Optional Color: Magnesium

    I'm not quite sure what this means. I think it means the fronts are 15x8 with zero offset (4.5" backspace) and the rear is 15x8.5 with -5mm offset (4.5" backspace).

     

    The OE rims are on turbo models are 15x6.5". Thus the wheel is actually 7.5" wide (flange to flange). From factory they had zero offset or in other words 3.75" backspace (total width divided by two), if I am not mistaken.

     

    From what I hear 4.5" backspace is like the "magic" number for fitment (on the inside of the wheel well. With coilovers 5" can be done). I am pretty confident the front wheels should fit fine. It is the rear wheels I am little concerned about. If they are too wide they might rub on your fender. Hope that helps.

  10. Hmmm. Interesting feedback. I can agree with you on the whole "looks like an aftermarket HONDA headlight (with the duals)" but in reality that factor really depends on the finishing work done to the fiberglass. Like I'm sure with a finishing modification, Mercedes CLS headlights could look like cheap pieces of crap, but its the finishing work that gives them that "expensive" "real" look. But, it is hard to say without having an actual object to work with. Hopefully once school is out, in May, I can really get going on my scale model project.

     

    I myself am a little perplexed, as the dual setup is really modernized, yet it lacks the "it could've been stock" look, whereas the "single" version also captures that modern look while still recultivating the orginal look the headlight had.

     

    It like Ultramodern vs Immensly updated, which to pick,:confused2

     

    Well, what can I say if mass production ever became an option, there would be options to choose from at least in the headlights anyways :wink:

     

    Oh and another tidbit, the headlight bucket would not be an individual unit, it would have to be molded...err grafted...err included into the fender in order for it to look "right". The front fascia could probably be a separate component as could the rear facia/diffuser unit, and the sideskirts. But the front fenders would have to have the headlight bucket integrated.

  11. Well just what the title said. The first isn't all that new, I just never did scan it into my computer till now. The other I did just yesterday.

     

    Dimensions are little off, the back end is too short and the front end is way too short, but you get the general design idea.

    BlueZdrawing.jpg

     

    The dimensions of this one are money (for the most part). This is another one of my signature manual photochops. The wheels are messed up (again). I swear wheels with angled spokes like VOLK TE-37's are a pain in the a## to draw. The rear flare I kinda messed up on as it should blend a little nicer into the door.

    sideprofile2.jpg

     

    Whats your take on 'em?

  12. Okay since a few guys seem to like the dual setup better, I did a few drawing to compare it to the other design. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

     

    New Drawings of the dual setup

    frontDualheadlights.jpg

    DualHeadlights.jpg

    Past Drawings of the single unit idea

    FrontNewHeadlight.jpg

    Newheadlight1.jpg

     

    I like feedback, not that you didn't already know that though :wink:

  13. Wow, I didn't realize there was so much interest in my design. The problem with modeling it, like you said is dimensions. We gotta keep in mind the sheer amount of custom work involeved here. Custom Hood, custom front fascia, custom front fenders, custom rear fenders, custom door panels, custom sideskirts, custom rear valence (with integrated diffuser).

     

    If anything the only component not custom could be the wing with the exception of the stanchions (I think that is what they are called). sadly the only dimensions I know right now are front fender 2" wider than stock and rear would be 4" wider than stock. Plus there are other dimensions I am still very unsure of. Where the rear fender should be completely blended into the door. How far forward should the front fender start to flare. I have not deisgned them to fit the way Subtle Z flares do, tapering right from door shut line.

     

    Dimensions on the front fascia don't even get me started there.

     

     

    Now here is a good solution (but it kinda revolves around my physical sculpting abilities, which I admit are a sheer cry away from the quality seen in my drawings :( ) Its not horrible, but then again things might turn out better with a medium that can be sanded, which is what I will be trying.

    Anyways, my solution, if possible. Put a grid on my finished 1/25th scale model. (I've seen this done on TV when designers want to see a possible finsished product- specifically the Deora II-they do the cmm scan). Then cmm scan the model. Then blow up the digital model to a 1:1 scale. Then VIOLA you have all the dimensions. Logically it works but only your friend would know for sure if this is feasible.

    I just hope I can sculpt well enough :roll:

     

    yellowf40- I'm confused, are you promoting yours friends business, investing interest in my ideas, trying to boost production possibilities to get a widebody kit for youself and others (which I don't mind), or trying to help the 280zx community, or all four? Just curious where all this generousity is coming from, and if there are strings attached, other than the $25-$50 investment (naturally if this cmm scanning could be done I'd have to give credit to your friend for scale modeling, and producing dimension, which I wouldn't mind, just as long as in production (being optimistic here) I got credit for the design). Gotta see it from my perspective I guess, I designed a supposedly awesome kit, and many people encourage me to make it, then all of a sudden someone pops up willing to do all the modeling, I don't want to lose credit for my design. See if your friend (this is worst case scenario) (In reality I am assuming your friend isn't out to exploit an under experienced up and coming designer) modeled the design but somehow modified so much as the slightest bit they could then call it their design, and I would be a sitting ducking getting absolutely squat for my creative invent. The politics of design are messy, but important. Sadly many designers get screwed over by engineering firms and such because designs are changed and credit is lost, and thus profit is lost and the designer is in square one again.

     

    Thanks for the interest, hopefully we can make this possible, the modeling that is, I'd like to see how that could turn out.

  14. nismo gt lsd pro 900$

    What's special about this?

    I went to NISMO's website and translated the text (babelfish) but the translation is really helping my understanding as Japanese sentence structure and grammar are far different thus making the translation somewhat illogical

    BTW thanks for all that info.

     

    Note: I also saw something called GT LSD PRO TT- whats the diff. I read something about clutch chatter decreasing. Not quite sure what that means, about the other units. Do they chatter when locking up?

     

    Two things I what to avoid clutch chatter and annoying gear whine.

     

    But I don't want a Quaife unit.(well I want one but its ouside of my budget)

     

    This is still kinda confusing. The KAAZ unit is inviting but I'm still confused. Are all R200 pumpkins the same? I heard KAAZ doesn't offer a unit for the 280zx. Does the application (via car not matter) and just the pumkin size and and ring specs/bolt size that does?

     

    I'm leaning to Leith, since he offered to install and offer a good product, and presently I don't know of any one here in town I can trust, and those who have gotten installs by Leith had nothing but good stuff to say.

  15. I think you should be more worried about what seats physically fit in the car since the early Z's are really narrow up top (the shoulder bolsters will hit the doors if you pick the wrong seat).

     

    I'm running Sparco Roadsters right now' date=' and if you need help getting Sparco seats let me know.[/quote']

     

    Hmmm I'll have keep in touch with you (240Z_Master) I too am into drifting. Further down the road I am considering Pro2000's the stocker won't be able to hold me well when I can really get into drifting.

     

    AK-Z I'm 6'2" ~150lb 32" waist. The pro2000 seemed to me like a near perfect fit but the Evo2 was also very comfortable when I tested it at SEMA. Being the skinny guy I am I need the thinner seat and narrow bolsters. BTW I tried a Bride seat and it didn't seem soft at all, like sitting in a metal bucket with just a rug thrown in it. Not exactly sure what model it was though sorry.

  16. thanks for clearing that up Z Draci. I had a good sense that was what the difference between the two units was, a Large brand backing a product that is also distributed as someother name but for less. Makes perfect sense from a marketing perspective, sneeky but smart. My guess is that TRD probably does the same thing with their LSD's.

     

    Just a reminder Leith, I'm still looking to send my pumpkin to you in the summer for a 2-way unit with 3.90 gears, just FYI thanks.

  17. No, they are different. Although similar, one has a little flare/skirt thing on the side and the other is just smooth. As far as covering the holes, I do not know, I guessing that they probably don't cover the bumper mounting holes (as the bumpers are installed in each picture, assuming were both talking about the same thing).

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