Mikez31ss

I'm going to have to review your posts to see if I can understand wiring up the coil and a test light to the battery.

Pics of the tach: And the connector: And some misc pics of the wiring that I need to take a closer look at and ID the wires: My link

I haven't had a chance to get back to this recently but I'll try your suggestions out tomorrow. It's going to be hard to get my big hands up under the dash to reach the tach bolts. That direct wire to battery test...is that to determine if the problem is between the coil and distributor? I admit I'm completely stumped at this point. There is power to the coil, the chances of 3 new pick-up coils, 2 new IC modules, and 2 coils all being defective seem pretty slim. And the wiring is too simple to be wrong.

I put a fuel pressure gauge on today. The gauge reads ~6.5psi so I'm at least 3psi too high. I'm going to reread that thread and decide whether to try a FPR w/ or w/o a return line or just a return line.

I love t-tops. I've owned 2 s130's and 2 z31's with t-tops. I feel claustrophobic in my 240z That new Porsche targa top just looks like a big sunroof.

Again I'm going to post withing your quoted post for simplicity sake. As I understand it, I have everything I need for spark. But just for info, the black/white #2 you mentioned above would have voltage in a factory configuration, right? And my tach doesn't work. I don't know that this has any bearing on why I'm not getting spark but since I'm not getting spark and everything we've discussed says I should be I'm just thinking of what-ifs. Grasping at straws I guess On second look I see one of the black/white wires comes from the tach and the other comes from the ignition switch. Also I have 3 black/white wires. I'm guessing the other was for the throttle opener relay?

I don't mean to totally discourage you on this. A few things to consider. Jason Butts already sells TB and LIM to plenum spacers at z31parts.com. The LIM has hot water running through water lines. I don't think you can isolate that. Most z31's are non turbo. Very little benefit there. You could spend thousands on an NA and you'll pick up very little HP. Not many z31 guys post here to see your suggestion. Try the z31 VG30 dedicated sites.

They are 40DCOE18. I'm a total noob w/ carbs but I'm guessing that deadheading means no return line? There is no return line from the carbs but it looks like the car has a smaller return line alongside the supply line that has been capped off. I need to read through that entire thread that Lazeum linked to. Yeah the Cosworth things have got to be easier to get right than fooling with a feeler gauge trying to get the thackeray washer tension and the spacer gap even. The heat shield makes it hard to even see the bottom of the carbs much less get a feeler gauge in there.

I like the looks of those Cosworth mounts. But...I just got some Thackeray washers and new spacers from that very same company. I got the plastic spacer and o-ring kits from them too. The ones you got look better. Not much difference in price either. I bought them on ebay. I should have googled Eurocarb Ltd to see the shop selection. I bought the spacers/o-rings because there had been leakage between the carb bodies and the intake manifold long before I got the car. Now I find that gas is coming out of two of the horns. I'm thinking I may need a gasket/seal kit. It isn't a big problem when the car is actually running but while I've been trying to get the electronic ignition going I've had the key on a lot with the fuel pump running and I think the fuel pump is too much for the Webers. I've since removed the fuel pump fuse while I work on the ignition but new gaskets and seals are probably a good idea. Any thoughts on that or suggestions on which kits to buy?

The pick-up coil actually seems fine. I removed the dizzy and checked the coil and it tests fine. I took several pics if you want to check them out. Maybe there is something there that I'm overlooking that you can spot. pics here

Thanks Matt. There should be some info there I can use. The irony is that I remember that post. You have any tips for setting Thackeray washers? I found some suggestions on a Lotus board that should be good enough to get them tensioned. I'm assuming there is some margin for error.

I don't think that would be as beneficial as you think it would be.

Still no spark. I checked the pick-up coil again and it reads 0 Ohms. What the hell... I don't remember if I checked it before or after I installed it. I'll pull it out tomorrow and see if I might have damaged it somehow.

Thanks Adrian. I haven't had a chance to do much yet. I did have time to install the new module and check the connections with the meter. I have pretty much the same readings as before. 12v from B to ground. 12v from C to ground. 12v from either coil terminal to ground. 1v from G to ground. 1v from W to ground. I'm stumped here. I don't understand why the wiring worked for the points distributor but not for the D6K8 distributor. Apparent the hot wire is fine. If it isn't hot in run and start then the points distributor would not have worked, right? The module is grounded from the metal plate on back. And I added a ground wire from one of the bolts used to mount the module. The points ignition had the black ground wire to the coil negative terminal. But that isn't necessary with the electronic ignition. If I understand correctly, all the new system needs for power is a wire that is powered in start and run. The only ground it needs is for the ignition module. For what it's worth here is another diagram of the original wiring and the new wiring.

Hope you're still subscribed to this Adrian. I got the new HEI module today. I'm going to try it tomorrow.

Click on that link and read. I've put together a TEC3r in the past but I'm still a noob. I have learned a lot about the s30 and s130 ignition system recently though. Still haven't got mine working so take my comments with a grain of salt

My car's PO installed a Carquest E8012S fuel pump just before I bought the car. The specs on that pump are 5-9 psi @ 75-100 LPH. In light of that info I think I'll go ahead and install an FPR and set the pressure at 3psi. I'm going to use a Holley 12-804 1-4psi FPR and add an inline gauge. Sound okay? I thought there was a Weber FAQ here so I searched but all I found was the one on jets. And a fine FAQ it is but it doesn't help here.

D6K8 is the type of dizzy it is...'79-'80 280zx. It would have originally used an e1280 module. Obviously it's been modified so no it isn't a factory splice. If you are going to use an e1280 module you'll need to pull those connectors off and see if they will fit the terminals on the back of an e1280 module. If not then you may be able to modify them. The connectors used to connect the D6K8 pick-up coil and the e1280 module are smaller than normal spade connectors. It had to have used some type of IC module but that's irrelevant now. You can use an e1280 or an HEI module. Personally I'd rather use an HEI module but there are people who will disagree on whether that is best. And ultimately it's your choice. The dizzy in my photo is a rebuilt D6K8 with an e1280 so that should help you if you decide to use the e1280. There is some info on this page that might help: http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/distributor/distributor.html

It's a D6K8 so it is what you wanted. The wires coming from inside are from the pick-up coil. Where do the wires go now?

Not exactly...poor choice of words maybe. I said there was power to B and C or in other words there was power between B or coil "+" and ground, and power between C or coil "-" and ground. Never between B and C or between the two coil terminals.

Ok but we had already established that there was no power between the coil posts but I tried it anyway. It didn't work. I'll try a new HEI module now. If that doesn't work then I really will be frustrated. The wiring is so simple. I'll let you know what happens w/ the new module. Thanks!

With just a K&N it won't be enough to notice but overkill is fun. And like the other guy said it gives you head room in case you decide to do more later. Just the 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust is going to be an improvement. I vote for 3" though so it's a consensus. Do it

Ok I'll try that tomorrow. I think I'll skip testing the e1280 module though. I have plenty to keep me busy on this car while I wait for another HEI module. Like so?

Definitely has a shady history. I'm not going to repeat it but somebody has done a serious background check on that guy and found a lot of suspicious stuff. I'm not clear on how he profits from this though. If he's just looking for his 15 minutes he got that.

I'm going to lie and and say I understand perfectly Seriously though I get the general principle. In that the power is going from the coil through the module to the dizzy and then back through the module to the coil? Good but not good enough lol. Unfortunately test 2 failed. Yes, I talked to Summit today and I can send it back for a refund or exchange. I took the module by Autozone to be tested but they said they had no harness for a 4 pin HEI. Idgits. NAPA supposedly can test 4 pin modules but there isn't a NAPA close enough to make it worthwhile. The '79 FSM wasn't much help on setting the air gap. I just loosened the screws holding the stator in place and moved it to an equal setting between the six points of the stator and the six points of the reluctor. It was good as it was but spec is .012"-.020" so I set them all at exactly .016".