Mikez31ss

That is probably cheaper that the ones I bought on ebay but...they did work great and the difference was very noticeable. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-NISSAN-BRASS-SHIFTER-BUSHINGS-240Z-260Z-280Z-E-/110497449347?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ba294583

The green wire was cut and taped up (with the green/white and black/yellow)...it wasn't connected to the noise suppression condenser. There was no condenser. There is no black/yellow wire shown in the factory diagram so everything about that wire would have to be a guess. It was a 12v ignition on wire and I cut it on the passenger side of the harness and used it for my efan controller "ignition on" source. I'm not following you there Adrian. There is only one black/white wire in the coil area w/ 12v. The longer b/w with the black cable sleeve. The shorter one has no power at any time.

I saw the ad and agree. There would have to be massive hidden rust for that not to be a great deal.

We're probably in the top 5. In case you missed it in my last reply there is both along with a green wire. None had voltage. Maybe they don't need voltage? Maybe connecting one of them to the coil negative would supply a signal to the tach? If you remember there was also a black/yellow with 12v ignition on. I used that for the efan controller.

Hey Adrian...how are you doing? Hard to believe this thread is so old I'll check the green/white wire on the connecter later. ---------------- Now playing: Supertramp - Goodbye Stranger via FoxyTunes

Adrian...the timing was at 20degrees. Now it's a shade under 10. No pinging. Matter of fact it seems way rich. It seems good other than the hellacious lope and a little smoke. The vac advance is capped. My car will start with the white connector unplugged. Bad news I guess. There is 11v between the black and the red/yellow. I never get 12v at any connection. Maybe my meter is off. The white wire loop looks great. No corrosion or bent parts. I can't see anything wrong with it. Leon...I've only got the brake booster port. When I remove the carbs I could probably drill a port in the manifold. Looks like a boss is there on #2. Is it a good idea to run that hose into just one cylinder? I guess if the blowby clears up it wouldn't make much difference. I have a catch can left over from my 300zx cars but it's a pretty janky part.

I bought "comprehensive service" kits from eurocarbsltd for my Webers. I don't have much experience with carbs but there aren't that many parts compared to a Holley 4v rebuild so this looks doable. The carbs seem to be adjusted well now so I plan to check each adjustment screw and write down the number of turns so I can get it all pretty much back where it is now. I need to set the floats but that looks easy enough. I have a syncrometer so I plan to check the carbs for synchronization too. I may have to change a few adjustments if they're off so I'm a little leery about that. Any advice or gotcha's I need to watch out for?

Hahaha that's good to hear. It's the exhaust tip that poses a real danger. I've barked my shin on it a couple of times. Tempted to cut it shorter. I don't think I want the car any lower. I have 3 or 4 speed humps to get over before I can get out of my neighborhood and the lowest point on the car is 2" from the ground so I'm just getting by as it is. You know anything about these lights..like, when were they popular or was there any real point to them...and I'm using that word popular loosely Those carbs are leaking and need new seals, gaskets etc. I bought "comprehensive service kits" from eurocarbs but I haven't worked up the nerve to do the work yet. There aren't that many parts in the kits and if I write down number of turns on the adjustment screws I can probably get it close to where it is now. I think it's adjusted pretty well now because there are no stumbles or bogging problems that I hear people w/ Webers talk about. I think the floats do need to be set because I checked one and it was off by a lot.

You think so? I really wish I knew more about the car. I'm the third owner. The guy I bought it from knew next to nothing about the car despite owning it for 15 years. The original owner did all the mods you can see and most that you can't see. Unfortunately he died a few years back so I have no easy way of finding out anything about the body or engine mods. I don't know the specs on the cam or anything else about the engine internals really. I didn't even know about that adjustable timing gear until I took the valve cover off. And apparently that perfect dash is really a perfect dash. It doesn't appear to be a cap and I posted some pics over at classicz and it appears to be an original dash. I love the exhaust sound. It's better than my z31's or s130's ever sounded.

Nope, wish I could take credit but I can't. You actually like the lights? Tell you what...if you have two complete round assemblies in 901 silver I'll trade you The best thing I can say about these is that they are fiberglass.

I think you're right Leon. I first thought it went to the air pump which was removed long ago. What would be a good solution? Route it into the intake somehow?

I finally got it going and washed it. http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/images/240/240zpics2.htm

Check it out Adrian

Mechanical. Simple, reliable, does not "rob horsepower" IMHO.

Thanks for clarifying that misterZ...that is indeed what I'd suspect if the car only overheats while stationary.

Did you check the fan?

Ok...it's running! I'll be back later with some questions on something though later it is Alright...like I said it runs now The guy across the street came over to hear it running. He is a semi-retired mechanic. He said it sounds like the dizzy is one tooth off. I don't know if I buy that. The car has a performance cam, it hasn't ran in months, and it wasn't warmed up good. And the carbs may need to be synced. I think that is what he heard. Before I did the swap I took the car in for a safety inspection. On the drive home I revved the engine and dropped the clutch and it smoked the tires. I don't think the car would have that much power if the oil pump shaft wasn't lined up causing the timing to be off, would it? Not that the car is seriously powerful anyway lol. I wouldn't know how to check if it is off without removing the oil pump. That seems like a lot of work just on the basis of someone's opinion given the circumstances. Any thoughts on that? Also a couple of times when I drove before the dizzy swap I thought I saw a wisp of smoke near the left headlight. I tried to figure out what it was but I couldn't get it to happen when I tried. I couldn't think of anything there that would smoke so I decided it was overactive imagination. Today when it started I noticed a little smoke and it was steady so I was able to see that it was coming from a braided hose coming off the motor. The other end of the hose is open to atmosphere. We decided that it's blowby. The neighbor thinks the piston rings are probably sticking from the car sitting for so long. He thinks that if I take the car out and run it that the rings will reseat and seal normally. I think he may be right. I hope so. Was that hose connected to something in factory configuration? I'll post a couple of pics at the bottom. Now I need to set the timing. I think around 8-10 degrees? I'll go back and check. I guess it's time to do the carbs after that. I may make another thread with pics of the parts in the kit and pics of the carbs and see if anybody will ID the parts and give some pointers on installing them so I don't open anything up that doesn't need to be opened up. After that I need to figure out why the tach doesn't work. I would guess it won't work without getting signal from the negative side of the coil?

Thanks Adrian. BTW I have 3 carbs There is a "starter circuit" in the carbs but there is no cable to activate it. I'm not even sure how much it would help. Any updates on your car?

The carbs leak out the front. The kit does indeed have new needle valves. I'm going to look at the DCOE parts diagram and my Weber manual and try to figure out where all the parts in the kits go. Today is the first time I've tried to start it since my last post. It was trying really hard to start. A couple of times it caught for a few seconds but I didn't give it throttle and I think I should have. Then a neighbor came over and turned the dizzy all the way CW (advanced?) and it wouldn't even try to start. I'm pretty sure the battery is going bad. The starter was turning much slower. The neighbor left and came back with a spark tester. He says it has weak orange spark. I'm hoping that is from the low battery. Later...I had the battery charged at Autozone. When I went to pick it up they tested it and the machine read "battery good...low charge." The counterguy said that means it's going bad but maybe they just didn't leave it on the charger long enough. He was swamped with customers and had just one inexperienced helper so who knows. Maybe the battery has enough juice left to get the car started. I also had a battery in the garage that I bought new two years ago and never used. I dropped that one off to be charged when I picked the other one up. BTW, before I tried to start the engine I turned the crank so that the balancer mark was closer to 10 than 5 and then turned the dizzy so that the rotor was facing the #1 point on the reluctor. I hope that was right.

Thanks for the info. I didn't find much on google. One guy with an s30 writeup mentioned having one in his car and one vendor selling Dial In Cam gears for another Japanese car model. I'll check out the sticky when I get this thing going and get new seals and gaskets in the carbs.

Yeah I want to thank Tony as well. Always good to have the master check things out The Webers have leaked since long before I got the car. I bought the comprehensive service kits from eurocarbs and I need to get to that as soon as possible. I did want to get the car running again and timed just to be sure any issues that come up after I work on the carbs is carb related and not ignition or timing. I'm a little leery of doing the carbs. Mainly because I have no clue where half the parts go. There aren't a lot of parts compared to say a Holley or Rochester 4v, just some seals, gaskets, o-rings, needle valves, and mixture screws...but being a novice I'd rather not disassemble anything I don't need to. I've looked around the web and emailed Matt at eurocarbs but there isn't a service kit "how-to" available. If the parts were labeled I could find them on the diagram. Some of the parts look a lot alike. I have a Weber manual so I'll see if I can figure it out. I'll post what happens when I try to start the engine tomorrow. I'll try not to start any fires

I disassembled the dizzy far enough to rotate the upper shaft around and then turned the crank to line up at 0 degrees again. This is as rabbit eared as it gets. I'm going to try to get this thing cranked up tomorrow and set the timing and then get busy with the carb seals and gaskets. Even with the mechanical pump and fuel pressure dead on 3psi... I'm still getting gas coming out the carbs.

I'll check that and get some pics after one more crank revolution. The L24 is the same as the other s30/130 engines regarding valves. Here are some better pics and one with the valves marked: And a larger pic:

Maybe that's a bad angle. Check these: These are much larger:

Oh well I thought I was at TDC on the compression stroke. Apparently it's at TDC on the exhaust stroke? The #1 intake cam lobe should be up? The cam lobe is down so I'm at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Is that correct? If so then the upper shaft was correct and the rotor should be pointing at #6 on the dizzy. I need to put it back where it was.