Mikez31ss

I just discovered that w/ the trumpets installed, there is room to fit the syncrometer on only one of the carbs. Would I still get true readings if I removed the trumpets to sync the carbs?

Looks very impressive. I'm pretty sure that is going to draw some attention lol. What's inside the aluminum besides the obvious?

Got started reinstalling the carbs tonight. Big difference in looks.

I decided to go ahead and try modifying the new auxiliary venturis to accept the springs from the old AV's. It was risky but it worked The new ones slide in and snap into place just like the old ones did. Here are some pics and a link to how I did it. click

Thanks I'll keep that in mind. I got the new aux venturis and they are indeed the new type requiring a set screw. I can order two set screws from Pierce but paying $10 + $5 shipping for a couple of set screws is hard to take. Konish...I'm curious if you considered slotting your new aux v's to use the springs from your old aux v's? And since I don't know the size of the set screws I have to ask if the entire brass plug is supposed to be drilled out and the carb body tapped for the screws? Or do you drill an appropriate size hole in the brass plug and tap the brass? Sorry if these are newb questions but money is tight and I can't afford to screw up. And to answer the obvious question...no I probably shouldn't be owning a car like this on my budget lol.

Thanks...I'll need luck with adjusting the carbs I'll let you know what happens with the tach.

Let me make sure I have this right: If I connect the two b/w wires together, the gr/w wire is then going to have 12v and supply power to the coil? And everything else remains as is? You're worrying me here Adrian...it took a long time to get it running I can't do anything yet. I rebuilt the carbs and two of the auxiliary venturi's were melted. I'm waiting for replacements before reinstalling the carbs. Then I need to see if the car still starts and see if I can get the carbs adjusted correctly.

Still waiting on the venturis. I'm hoping I can find a way to modify the new ones to use that spring part from the old ones. We'll see. I decided to make the heat shield more manageable. I folded part of it back under and added a sheet of phenolic material to it near the header. Hopefully it will insulate the carb bodies better and open up some air flow. I'm wondering if adding some aluminum heat shielding between the header and the dizzy would be a good idea. I stuck a piece of aluminum angle in but I haven't figured out how to attach it.

Oops, the tach wasn't plugged in. There is .2 between the g/w and b/w in the engine bay. Also .2 between the g/w in the engine bay and g/w at the harness connector.

1. sell the parts...you'll still lose money but it's your best option to realize the most cash 2. Your post could be construed as trying to get around the ad posting rules...

Thanks for the headsup but I've already ordered the venturis. I'll have to improvise on the screws.

The meter displays OL.

I'm pretty much finished. Never found any more o-rings or washers. Must be for the throttle spindle or starter circuit or a different model DCOE. Still need to set the floats and do a final check. I think these last two aux venturis are screwed. Anybody have a couple of extras lying around?

A friend just dropped off his Fluke DVM. Yes...he is a good friend lol. I'll see if I can take a break from the carbs long enough to check this out. I'm rebuilding/refreshing the Webers.

I haven't given up on this but I need to find a better meter. Mine is just giving various readings.

Like a 900? Nice Blackstone core but way small and has poor endtank design. Weld two together with good endtanks and you might be okay. One makes a nice paperweight

Second that. There are too many better quality low cost intercoolers available to waste time on that one.

Thanks Konish. I'll think about that float setting method. I did manage to get the pump jets out...I just pulled harder. But carefully lol. Everything I'm doing is carefully. The aluminum washers were a little hard to remove. They were pretty much stuck to the jets. I'm glad I didn't cut my fingernails before starting this. They came in handy today lol. I'm not using the starter circuits so I'll just leave those alone. The aux venturis have a number 45 on them and the chokes have 30. The first carb is pretty much done. I just need to set the float and recheck everything. I think the other two will go much quicker. Maybe they will have the o-rings and/or washers that this one didn't have. If so I'll go back and correct the first one. I did have some comic relief. After getting everything back together I noticed a brass part left in the box I stored the carb in last night. Oh **** moment. After checking a couple of jet assemblies I looked at the part closer and remembered I had some MSD parts stored in the box before. Recognize it? Scott...ZR8ED...it is Scott right? I talked to you a couple of times at z31.com long ago. Reading between the lines (or not) you're saying the newer idle screws are better. Sounds good as long as I don't puncture the carb wall with those sharp ends I don't suppose any of those mystery o-rings would be useful on the mixture screws? This one looks much better than the others.

Thanks man...I checked. The old ones were 200...new ones are 175. I'm gonna go ahead and go with them. On that note here are the numbers I have so far. Main jet 130 idle jet 45 ...and F9? Not sure about the last two characters Emulsion tube F11 air correctors 165 Probably meaningless w/o knowing my cam specs. I'm still on the first carb but it's coming along. Hope to get an earlier start tomorrow. I haven't been able to get the accelerator pump jets out yet. I thought they'd come right out like everything else has. Any tricks? The manual just says "remove". Doesn't say how The only o-rings I've found so far are under the accelerator pump jet screws. According to the manual there are supposed to be o-rings & conical washers for the idle mixture screws but there aren't any on mine. The kit has new style idle mixture screws but they are quite a bit longer than the old ones. I'm skeptical about using them. Any thoughts? Also...one idle mixture screw was 1 turn out and the other was only 1/2 turn out. Big difference. I'm trying to take a lot of pics in case the next newb that is crazy enough to do this needs some help. http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/images/240/webers.htm Here's a pic of the idle mixture screws:

That is really useful info. Thanks guys. And Konish...I can't tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time for such a detailed post. It answered questions I would have asked if I'd thought about them. You and Adrian should be in the newb helper hall of fame I had to google for this: "One complaint folks have about the Weber carb versus twin SUs is a "flat spot" or dead zone, or bog, on throttle..." My car doesn't have that problem so I guess the emulsion tubes are right. I don't know much about carbs obviously, so if I can get them back to the way they were before performance-wise and eliminate the leaks I'll consider it a big win.

I finally got started. Two odd things I noticed. On two of the carbs, gas squirted out when the pump was depressed. The other one...nada. It had gas in the bowl too /shrugs. The other thing...the needle valve seating had no "gasket" as the manual calls it. I was hoping to ID the new one by looking at the old one. It's got to be the big silver one in the pic above. I'll check the next one to see for sure. Also I'm thinking I should leave the spindle assembly alone since it seems okay and I've heard it's not something to be messed with unless it's definitely got problems. True? Also...is the auxiliary venturi retaining screw hidden under a brass plug? The manual isn't clear on that.

Ok how about just telling me if I'm on the right track here I wanted to ID the parts in the kit and the basic carb parts before I get started. I think I have everything pinned down except a couple of things. The spring: it's the internal throttle return spring? And two small metal washers...I think they are part# 49 in the diagram but called (pump jet) gaskets instead of o-rings? And finally...there are 7 small o-rings and 2 larger ones. I know there is one for each idle mixture screw and one for each pump jet and two for the throttle spindle. I won't be using those if I have to disassemble the throttle to replace them. I can't find any more o-rings in the parts list or my manual. I know I'm playing with fire here.

$563.00 OMG I thought my car was wide. Those cars are seriously wide. My car only has 245-50-15 in the rear, which doesn't seem to be available in a street legal tire anymore. At least I can still get a 235-50-15.

He's talking about the "wells" which is what some of us call them. The plugs in a VG30 are tucked away in a small recess that attracts dirt, twigs, small bits of hardware etc. Your first answer was the best suggestion. In a pinch a leaf blower might work Try to loosen up the crap as much as possible with a screwdriver or ice pick then hit it with a leaf blower...