Jeff

Check out Simple Digital Systems This is a very flexible system and will handle what ever you want to throw at it later. I know some of our members swear by this system and have great results using it.

Damn that was fast!! Didn't you receive it a week ago today? Seriously it looks great, way to go.

If you go the mechanical route definetly take Pete's advice and run copper tubing for the oil pressure gauge. I used the cheap clear plastic stuff once and oiled down the back side of my dash one day when the tubing blew. What a mess

Once you have removed the plastic steering column cover you can get to it fairly easy. There are four screws that hold the switch to the column, it clamps around the column. The trick is that two of screw heads are smooth, no slot for a screwdriver. These must be drilled out very carefully, just go slow. Once you have the switch in hand the remainder of the screw comes out easily. Hope I haven't confused you, but you'll see what I mean when you get into it. Best of luck.

Congratulations Scotty. How much boost are you going to try and run on the new motor? By the way your goodies left today, I'll call tomorrow to get a status. I would think they should get there in a week or so.

Shipping for large parts is always expensive. They can not ship UPS ground due to size restrictions and the common carriers go by the size of the container unless what your shipping is quite heavy. In other words the same shipping rates will apply with everyone. You might want to check out some of the after market suppliers. Click here

Here it is Its been for sale a long time over on Zcar.com. The phone number he lists puts him somewhere in the Ft. Lauderdale area. If anyone is close you might have them take a look at it.

Check out this thread from early March http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=9;t=000570

The 240 dash will not bolt into a 260 without modifications to the mounts. I have a 240 and a 260 sitting in my garage right now and could shoot some pics of the mounts if you like. Both cars are stripped at the moment. Let me know.

Ryan, For the floor pans and frame rails go to Zedd Findings and look under body parts. These are nice reproductions and fit fairly well. I have an extra pair of fenders in good condition and a drivers door in fair condition if your're interested. Not sure what part of South Florida you're from, but I'm heading down to West Palm on May 3rd if you want to try and meet up. As for other replacement panels and parts Motorsport Auto is always a good place to start. For used stuff go to Z Barn they are always a good source. Good to have another Florida member and good luck with your project.

Check out Pete Paraskas web site. He's got a great write up at http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/structuralmods.htm Or you can purchase replacement frame rails at http://web.ctsolutions.com/zeddfind/ Just click on body parts for pricing and some pics. Hope this helps.

Sorry to hear about that Mike. I was hoping it was just broken rings and not something that major. How did the cylinder walls hold up, any damage?

Lonestar Zee, No that's not mine, I believe your talking about this thread http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=9;t=000570

Thanks for all the kind words guys. I would have never been inspired without this site, you guys are the best. By 400 ci 280z Everything is through bolted using 3/8" bolts. The two tubes slide together and have holes drilled at 2" o.c. for adjustment. Lots of holes to drill what a PIA. Here is a fuzzy pic of the front connection. By Zachb55 I haven't taken very many pics yet, but I'll work on it and get back with you.

DP Post some pics I would love to see your design and free is always a good thing. For all my effort and following someone elses plans I can't spin it over with one hand. I've got it mounted a little off center and it's bottom heavy.

Terry, That's a great idea. I know it is very light and I would tend to agree that it is in the 300# range. I could lift the front or the back with ease and mounted the whole thing by myself. Not something I would try again though as I almost droped it off the stands by getting a little agressive . I'll let you know what I come up with although it will probably be a while before it comes back down.

If anyone is interested you can see plans for this rotisserie at http://members.tripod.com/mopar_roadster/body_rotisserie.htm I followed the cut sheets and the only challenge was figuring out how to assemble all the pieces. It works great though and is fully adjustable for use on most cars.

Z car bottom that is. After a few delays and misfabrications I finally got the 260 on the rotisserie today. Here are a couple of pics. If AOL is not cooperating go to http://members.aol.com/jeff9962/rotisserie Now it's time to get dirty and start striping some undercoating.

Rust free Z cars are very tough to find, but it is well worth the effort in the long run. I paid $1,200 for a rusty 240 and ended up scraping it in the end. Ultimately found a rust free 260 project car and purchased that. Upon further inspection I found a botched collision repair that is going to set me back another $1,500 to repair. The moral of this story: look the car over very well, put it on a lift and poke all around the floors, frames, quarters and rockers. You must factor in time and money for any necessary repairs, both have been the killers for me. Don't jump on the first Z you find, I guarantee it will be cheaper in the long run to pay a little more for a rust free car. Just my $0.02 though.

This is such a common problem that Nissan has reproduced a patch panel for this area. It is part #999M1-M0000. http://www.nissanautoparts.com/ still shows it as a good part at a cost of $79.30. Replacing the panel is the easiest way to fix that area.

I was wondering if I was the only idiot that broke his on removal. Glad to hear I'm in good company.

Stainless is fine for brake lines, no worries about any kind of chemical reaction. You might check with Classic Tube http://www.classictube.com/frames/4/index.html for the correct size of the front to rear brake line. They offer a complete set of pre bent lines for the Z Car as well. Those line are a pain, I droped the rear suspension to get mine out in one piece.

Eastwood sells heavy duty scrappers and these worked well for me. Took me about 6 hours and one blister to get it all out. Some of it came out in big chunks, but most of it was small pieces.

Thanks guys, it was no problem. Scottie, I know we just talked about this and I forgot I had printed this article. Just remember that the replacement pans will fall short of the rusty section at the base of the firewall many times. This is the case with mine and Scotties cars. You will need to get some sheet metal and fabricate a patch for these areas while you are doing the pans. It's not a horrible process, but does take a bit of time. Good luck to all.

Scottie and Danno, I scanned the article and made it available for download at http://members.aol.com/jeff9962/Article It's a three page article but it printed off the web in 6 pages, so there are 6 files total. You'll have to piece it together. Here's the first page as a tease Hope this helps.