DrSideways

Also check Cornwell. Many of their tools are made in the US. Check out their site and see what you think. I also go along with JohnC. No debt for school tools. You can make it on Craftsman. It won't be in your hand all day as you will be in class too. As Tony mentioned... pawn shops. Great for deals. You must stay abreast of what stuff costs from the trucks so you know a deal when you see it. These days pawn shops are bound to have good stock. Alan

Cool. Very cool. Can't wait to hear a sound clip. Alan

Make sure the metal backing plate of the pad is not binding in the caliper. You can use the bench grinder to take a bit of metal off of the backer plate on the fore and aft edges. I have seen the pads bind here and while you are exerting good pedal pressure the pad may not be squeezing the rotor. Another thing you can do before putting the pads back in. Take a sheet of 100 grit sand paper and put it on a smooth flat surface. Then put the pad side down on the paper. Move the pad in a figure 8 pattern. You will take the glaze off evenly. Put the pads back in. Flush with new fluid if you haven't. Bleed all four corners. Then bed the pads again. There may be bedding instructions in the box they came in, or the Porterfield website. Hope this helps. Alan

Race tires are like bread. There is fresh bread, not so fresh,stale, then moldy. I like fresh race tires and fresh bread:) Alan

Check Crower for a spring set that meets your spec. You are in the right ballpark for rates. Just like suspension....you want to use the lowest rate possible to do the job. Less wear, less heat, easier on the valve seats. It is stuff like this that where a Spintron would be helpful. Alan

The foam filters will harden on the inside from heat and fumes. It can significantly block flow over time. The signs will be a richer and richer condition. If you must spend the money on the ITG unit then check the back side when doing maintenance. The K&N units I referenced have the velocity radius made into them. When you mount them on a modified Mikuni stack it works well. Over the years I have spent a fair amount of $$ on just air filter set ups. These K&N units are the best street/track combo I have seen with out going to a full air box with remote filter. Alan

You might try these: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RD-0450 They have an internal radius that replaces the radius of a velocity stack. Look for some damaged stacks or some that someone replaced using a full radius horn from TWM. Cut the bell off of the velocity sack and clamp this on. Make sure and measure the O.D. of the cut stack to order the correct K&N part. Alan

Glad you can make the trailer work. Still need a real truck. http://www.race-cars.com/trasales/ford/1296534579/1296534579ss.htm Alan

In racing it isn't the cars that kill the wallet. It is the trucks and trailers. Look around for a used 2001 or back Power Stroke F250. You need a CAR trailer. A boat trailer isn't even good enough for lawn mowers. Why risk all of your hard work and money with the wrong tools for the towing job. Everyone who has towed a trailer more than 200 miles has a trailer story. Even the ones who buy the right equipment. Do yourself and everyone who has to share the road with you a favor..... save up... buy the right thing.... be careful. One more thing..... you ALWAYS have more crap that weighs more than you think going to the track. Alan

I've been wrong on worse. I wish you had the the $$ too. Alan

That would be a Toyota 2-TC. These were used in early 1970's Corollas. What did I win?? Alan

Totally sealing is a tough deal. I used some white aluminum to replaced the whole rear deck. It bolts to the cell frame using all of those 1/4" bolts. Along the edges I used Dzus fasteners..... not too many though. On the edge of the aluminum I used the push on channel molding like used to be used on door jamb frames. Having the exhaust exit past the back of the car a bit seems to help on the CO problem. I've been gassed in Z Cars twice pretty badly. Never had a problem with mine:) Alan

Winner, winner.... chicken dinner? Alan

This is one of those tasks that too often get out of control. The cell needs a cover. No problem. You need a way to get to the filler. I made a 4.5" tall riser out of the same aluminum I used for the cover. The riser is shaped like the oval found on top of the cell. I cut the oval out of the flat cover that goes from side to side from the strut towers back. I left two tabs to attach the riser. On top of the riser I put a lid with one simple hinge and a wing nut Dzus fastener to keep it closed. I have seen what looked like enough metal to build the side a of a Greyhound bus covering fuel cells. Just seems to be adding weight for zero gain. If needed I can snap a photo later. Alan

Hope it goes well. Alan