Mycarispurty

Cool I'll check into those...thanks.

I'm not going to sit here and disrespect you like you just disrespected me. Some guys like tons of frame twisting torque and gobs of horsepower; some guys don't. I want my Z to be show, and a good bit of go. 325 hp or so is still a respectable amount and will get me going like I want it to. But I'll tell ya this, I'd much much rather have 425 all wheel horsepower in my Eclipse than an equal amount in a domestic, or some other car with a v8. While you're back tires are spinning (unless you're running steamroller sized tires in the back) I'm going to leave your happy *** at the line every time.

No, just don't care for gobs of hp...if I want that, that's what my Eclipse is for.

Nope no heads, just the block minus the oil pan. I'm not sure how much performance you have in mind in relation to the overheating part due to it being overbored quite a bit; however I don't want 500 hp and 550 lb ft of torque and all that. I only want around 275-325 hp or so. I don't want gobs and gobs of power because I don't want to destroy the R200 rearend and twist the frame into a pretzel and all that. p.s. from what I can gather so far by looking up oil pans on Ebay and not having the block numbers yet, since it's a pass. side dipstick, it appears to be the 80-85 blocks if that means anything to anyone.

He said he's going to snap a few more pics of it tonight. It's been soaked in WD and stored in a bag so that works out good in my favor of it being taken care of since he has brought it home. Says the spare set of pistons are true 4 valve relief. Do the pistons that are in it look like they were modified to be 4 valve relief or something? Anyone know any good Chevy swap meet internet sites where I could see about getting an oil pan or browse through what stock SBC heads would go good on that? Seeing as how I don't have the $ to pay for aftermarket heads I thought all GM parts were cheap until I saw the prices of T56 Tremec's and aftermarket heads lol

A guy rather local to me is selling a 350 fresh from the machine shop. He says he'd take $400 for all of it, and here's the details: 010 block, .60 over, passenger side dipstick, probably from the 70s. Fresh turned crank, reconditioned rods, new cam bearings, all machine work done. Stock cam and timing set, with no oil pan. Says it also comes with a better set of pistons. He said it's also the older style 2 piece rear main seal, so should fit with the JTR kit. One thing I like about it, other than it's pretty cheap and freshly machined, is that it's not that ugly Chevy Orange color. He seems to have left the block just natural iron which I like better. Anyone care to look at the pics and tell me what they think after reading the description? Also I asked him for the casting #s on it. It's not really important, but it'll give me something to look up and read about it.

Any of you guys running 4.5" to 5" bs or a little more having any trouble with brakes getting in the way so the wheel won't fit on correctly? I think I'm almost ready to purchase those Rota D2s I posted about the other day, and thought I'd see if anyone has had a problem with something like that. I'll probably be happy going with the Toyo 4 piston brake upgrade, maybe the ones that fit the Z31 rotor, just depends on what deal I find at the time I'm ready to purchase. I don't think I'll ever need some big blingin' Wilwood setup or something unless I find a good deal on some used ones or something. Anyways just thought I'd throw this out there and see if anyone could take a stab at it.

Anyone know how much a Z31 connecting rod weighs with the cap and bolts on it? I'm shipping some to Sweden and need to know the weight so I can quote the guy a price.

Well does anyone know how much tubing to cut from the top down in inches? I think I read somewhere to cut 5.25".

Since I don't know how to weld, and I don't think there are any reputable suspension shops around here...would someone on here who's good with a welder and fabricating skills take some stock 280Z strut tubes and cut/weld them for a plug and play conversion to coilovers?

I know how to measure em, that's how I got all those #s...I just wasn't taking into account that the 7.5" measurement was from where the tire contacts on one side to the other. I suppose I could recalculate However if that one guy's chart I was linked to is correct, that'd put the front ones about 4 3/4" or so backspacing, and the rears a hair abot 5.5". I suppose that isn't so bad...who knows. Maybe I'll keep looking elsewhere for wheels.

How'd you get that? If 7.5 x 25.4=190.5. Half of that (if wheels were 0 offset) would be 95.25. Add 20mm more makes it 115.25 (how far the mounting surface is from the inside lip). 115.25/25.4=4.54". I'm not trying to be an ***, just curious how you figured that when I got something completely different.

Upon more calculation/thinking, it appears from the centerline mounting points of the wheel, the fronts would have 4.5" of wheel going towards the suspension. And the rears would have 5" of wheel going towards the suspension. On the fronts that would leave 3" of wheel/lip going towards filling up the fenders and on the rear, 3.5" of wheel/lip going towards filling up the fenders. Those wheel/lip measurements of going towards filling up the fenderwell (all measurements of the wheel going towards the suspension aside) would line up with the fender just the same as a 6" wide wheel up front and a 7" wide wheel out back. Assuming I could get the measurement of the wheel going towards the suspension to fit, those wheels would fit pretty much like a stock 14x6 Datsun 6 star wheel or so as far as filling out the fenders and not sticking in or out. Maybe a 1/2" or 3/4" spacer between the wheel and the lugs and longer lugs just in case they stick in too far would remedy the situation. Now my brain hurts, and I doubt new wheels would even be worth the effort of having to crunch this many numbers. P.S. I suppose the easiest way to tell would be by jacking one side up, taking the wheel off, and taking 2 straight edges and laying one across the flat surface where the wheel mounts, and one T'ing off from that and measure the amount of space from there to the suspension. And then having someone putting the jack under the hub area and jacking it up to simulate suspension load, and taking another measurement. Then I'd know (if I were to get these wheels) what sorta spacer I'd have to run if any.

Ok I was checking out these uber badass Rota D2 wheels for my 280Z. They come as low as 20 and 25 offset, 17x7.5 up front and 17x8.5 out back is what I'm interested in. Anyways I was converting inches to millimeters and calculating and crunching numbers. Here's what I've come up with. The 7.5" = 190.5mm, at 0 offset wheels that'd be 95.25mm which equals 3.76" of backspacing. However since they're +20, that'd make them 115.25mm at the +20 setup. Meaning they have a backspace of 4.54". The 8.5" = 215.9mm, at 0 offset wheels that'd be 107.95mm which equals 4.25" of backspacking. However since they're also +20, that'd make them 127.95mm at the +20 setup. Meaning they have a backspace of 5". Man my brain hurts now. According to Centerline saying their specs show 4" of backspacing optimal for the stock Z setup, and 5" backspacing if coilovers are used, these technically should fit my car unless I am totally missing something. The front has coilovers right now, while the rears don't yet.

I like those. I wish they made a 16" size though, I don't really care for 15s much unless they're exceptional.

Yea, I can't even find any cool looking tires in sizes that I want...oh well, I'll let someone else have them.

Eh, on 2nd thought, I don't think they'd look as cool with the correct size sidewall tire as opposed to what's on in the pictures, which is probably a 40 or 45 series. Once I got back up to the 55 or 60, I don't think they'd look cool at all.

What would be the correct size tire to run on a wheel that wide? Like 275ish?

Those are right at the correct backspacing for the Z, they'd just poke out some. I bet the ZG flares or similar would cover those right up. Dare me to bid...c'mon

Check out these 15x10s on Ebay. I might put down a bid and get me these. Of course then the pain in the butt part is finding someone selling 2 15x7s or something for the front http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-NISSAN-240-260-300Z-5-Slot-Slotted-Mag-Wheels_W0QQitemZ4615760922QQcategoryZ34209QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

My 280Z has some of those crappy manual pop-up split panel sunroofs in it...it's got some miles on it because the outside seal is really showing it's age, plus it leaks a little in really hard rains. I was checking out some aftermarket electric spoiler sunroofs (the ones like factory in Eclipses, Hondas, etc) that pop out and go back above the roof, acting like a spoiler. The kits were about $350...I was just curious if anyone had installed, or had a shop install one for them? One guy that I asked that runs audio/fabrication shops said it'd be around $450 on labor...does that sound right? Im just curious. I'm right outside Chattanooga, TN if anyone knows of some really reputable shops to check out. Thanks!