Mycarispurty

So I know these Vettes were made back in the day with different types of fuel, so is it safe to run a 365hp 327 on today's 93 pump gas? The motor as far as I know has an original cam and all that, but will have a Performer RPM Air Gap intake and Holley 750cfm Street Avenger more than likely as the current owner of the engine has it in an old C10 with the stock truck 2 barrel intake and carb on it.

Is it ok to mount just the engine block in my 280Z while I dig up the rest of the parts I want to use? I don't want to have a Chevy small block in my garage taking up space if when I get the motor home, I can just lower it into the engine bay and bolt it to the mounts/crossmember and forget about it until I get the rest of the parts ready. From what I recall, when I pulled the t5 out of my Mustang to swap throwout bearings, the engine wanted to lean back towards the middle of the car because the transmission and crossmemeber weren't there to hold the rest of the motor up, and it was wanting to rest on the frame rails on the headers. I know the mounts on the blocks go further up towards the front, just want to make sure so possibly I can get just the motor for now, and find the transmission I want to use later.

I have a 77 280Z with molded in fender flares, pantera hatch, molded headlight buckets, fender mirrors, vette style tails, in good shape body wise. the only rust ive found is a hole in the pass. floor board that any body shop could patch with a piece of sheet metal, or you could just have the pan replaced. has a rebuilt head, good motor, header, 5 speed, exhaust. it did run, i just yanked the fuel injection to eventually carb it. im either going to v8 it, or sell it because ive found a dude with a pretty slick 77 stepside chevy truck id love to have. a buyer can make it run like it is, or pull the motor out to throw in a turbo or v8, whatever works.

Well I haven't heard back from Paeco, but I would imagine if they were closed, their site would mention something.

So I'm looking for a place to rebuild my recenty acquired Weber 40 DCOE 151s and have thought of a few. Top End Performance-$180 each (lowest prices in the world my ass) Rebello Racing-$150 each Paeco-about $145 each ($80 per carb, $65 rebuild kit, I assume $145 each) Pierce Manifolds-$300 each Carbs Only-$150 each So far, it looks like Paeco might get the nod from me, only because they're so close. Rebello might get it because he does a lot of work with Zs. I'm just hoping whoever does it, dips/washes/cleans the outside of the carb, the part you actually see. They're showing their age and don't look so hot.

PM me with some pics/pricing on the stuff. That might be what I need.

Does it mount back by the fuel tank or somewhere in the engine bay or what? I just don't want to have to deal with putting one ON the engine, as I recall a Z car guy saying the stocker was driven off the cam or something. I don't want to deal with anything mechanical like that, I want to use all electric.

Out of all the people who run carbs, no one knows the answer to this?

So here soon I'm slapping some triple Webers on my 280Z, and I'm curious if I have to get one of those fuel pumps that mounts up on the engine like the 240Zs, or if I can get an aftermarket pump that fits back by the fuel tank like the 280Zs, that just happens to run less pressure so I don't blow my carbs up with 36psi of fuel pressure. This might be a stupid question, but I've never had a carbed Z so I've never really had to pay attention to fuel pump options, and there is no stupid question, so I thought I'd just get it out there.

I'd rather pay someone to do it so I know it's done right from someone with experience. I know Paeco in Birmingham will do it, but their parts and services always cost about 300340 times more than any other shop. They want $80 per carb and their rebuild kits are $60-65.

I should be picking up a set of Weber DCOEs here pretty soon and am going to need a shop to rebuild them and clean them up real good. I'm in Chattanooga, TN and looking for a shop or individual around here. If not I guess I could ship them off somewhere. I just prefer local so I might be able to drive to go get them so they can talk to me and maybe give me some helpful info when it comes time to mount them back up and fine tune them if they need it.

Ahh ok, never paid that much attention to them.

Outlets/inlets are sorta self explanatory, but here's what I'm talking about:

So I'm looking on ebay at 280Z FPRs, and the ones I see have just 1 inlet/outlet, and then the curved outlet for the cold start injector. Every 280Z I've owned that I can recall, had 2 inlet/outlets, and then the curved one for the FPR. What's the deal?

Do you know if it's compatible out of the box with the hardware opto feature or if some firmware needs to be added?

I'm checking out this MS2 on Ebay: This is a Megasquirt standalone unit for any custom car application to control fuel. MS2-0274. Map Sensor 300kpa. MSNSparkExtra V029q2. Hardware Opto. Didn't set it up in my car. Comes with pin connector. Bought it from rs-autosport.com about a year or so ago. brand new never installed. please bid with the intent to pay. take care I guess the map sensor doesn't matter if it's the 2.5 that only does around 20ish psi of boost, or the big daddy that'll do like 40+, I'm just curious if anyone can shed some light on the MSnS Extra v029q2 part, whether that's an old bad design, or a new awesome program, or just whatever. Also, the hardware opto part, just curious what that means. I'm looking to use just the 83 turbo dizzy with and want to make sure it's compatible.

So my Z idles high (probably the result of the crappy AFM to T/B boot that isn't a stocker and doesn't seal so tightly. However it keeps running rich and smoking. It lets fuel into the oil causing it to thin out and seep past the rings and burn off while running. I know this because before I changed the oil the other day, it got so bad the oil was leaking past either the oil pan or one of the rear seals and leaking badly after I shut the engine off. So I changed the oil, then virtually no smoke for about 3 or 4 minutes of running and it started again. So I want to track down and narrow down whether it's a fuel pressure regulator problem or a sensor problem. Test: 1-1: Idle throttle switch No throttle--saticfactory Full throttle--satisfactory 1-2: Full throttle switch Part throttle--satisfactory Full throttle--satisfactory 1-3a: AFM resistance #1--satisfactory 1-3b: AFM resistance #2--this is supposed to be continuity with a small resistance, my ohm meter measured 165.8 ohms and no continuity 1-3c: AFM resistance #3--satisfactory 1-4: Air temp sensor resistance--this is supposed to measure around 2250-2750 ohms which is 68 degrees, it's probably mid 70s outside, but only showed 35-39 ohms on my meter 1-5: AFM fuel pump contacts--couldn't test due to not having help to hold the AFM flap open 1-6: Water temp sensor resistance--this is supposed to measure around 2250-2750 ohms which is 68 degrees, the water is probably around that due to it being mid 70s outside , but only showed 4.73 ohms, and this is a brand new sensor 1-7: Fuel pump relay circuit--this should be continuity, but nothing. It could be due to the fact that my fuel pump is wired through a killswitch and not in the standard wiring circuit. However the car will fire up and run so this test probably doesn't matter. 1-8: Air regulator and fuel pump circuit--this should be continuity, but nothing. Could be a bad air regulator, could have to do also with the fuel pump wiring. 1-9a: ECU ground #1--satisfactory 1-9b: ECU ground #2--satisfactory 1-9c: ECU ground #3--satisfactory 1-9d: ECU ground #4--satisfactory The following tests in group 2 should read the battery voltage with the key to ON, with the key in ON, my battery was reading 11.85. 2-1: Ignition coil trigger input circuit--11.78 2-2: ECU power input circuit--11.85 2-3a: #4 injector circuit--11.9 2-3b: #1 injector circuit--11.89 2-3c: #5 injector circuit--11.89 2-3d: #6 injector circuit--11.89 2-3e: #3 injector circuit--11.89 2-3f: #2 injector circuit--11.89 The following tests in group 3 should read battery voltage with the starter solenoid disconnected and the cold start valve harness unplugged. 3-1: Start signal circuit--11.85 3-2: Air regulator circuit--11.43, might be some resistance in a connector 3-3: Cold start system circuit--this should read little to no voltage, then battery voltage after no more than 15 seconds. At first it ran about 5 volts, then shot up to maybe 7 max after 30 seconds or so and never got any higher.

I'm never ordering anything from those bastards again. I ordered a mini starter from them with a heat shield to put in my 305 S10. The heat shield didn't fit worth a ♥♥♥♥, not even close, and the starter wouldn't bolt up to my motor right, the starter gear at rest sat on the flywheel, so that wouldn't work obviously, and I emailed them about returning it and they never even got back to me, but they were happy to reply when I initially emailed them about a question before ordering.

I might be going to pick up a turbo engine from a somewhat local guy, he has the turbo motor in a 75. He's already meshed the turbo ZX harness with the 75 fuel injection harness. Since it'd be going on the same engine and the same ECU, I'm sure I won't run into any problems with a connector being a different style than what came on later 280Z, but I just thought I'd ask. I'm pretty sure the fuel injection harness on 280Zs controls only fuel injection sensors on the engine so if it's been meshed together and works on that particular engine I'm sure I'm fine, but just wanted to double check.

Ok so I'm retarded. After many trial startups, a drive around the block and more startups since I've owned the car, as well as depressurizing the system several times to test and experiment and spilling fuel, plus spilling some today when I replaced all the hoses back there...the car was just outta gas. I thought the pump was making a funny noise. So I put a few gallons of fresh gas in it, and after a few seconds of cranking, it fires right up. NOW it reads 30psi constant, and even stays right at about 28 or 29 when I shut the car off. Still runs rich though and doesn't stop smoking once the fuel pump is cutoff like a previous owner said, so I'm going to depressurize again probably tomorrow and unplug the fuel line to the cold start valve and see what that does for me. I'll probably go ahead and purchase a $25 coolant temperature sensor and also order myself a new FPR once I figure out which of the 2 to get from Auto Zone. Hopefully just throwing a few bucks at it and replacing a few common culprits will fix it. Even if it is definitely the FPR, might as well replace the coolant temperature sensor while I'm in "fix the Z" mode.

Ok, took the fuel pump and lines off the car, and used compressed air to blow out the send and return lines. A spray of fuel shot out of the engine bay when I blew out the feed line, and a bit more junk shot out when I hit the return line, probably had more fuel in it. Anywho, I get to checking out the pump setup. Sorta jerry rigged in there. I take the feed fitting off the pump and look inside and there's all sorts of junk in there. I get some dental scrapers and pick out as much as I can and then tapping it against the garbage can lid caused some more junk to come out, but mostly it was cleaned out by scraping. I figure that, along with probably a little funk in the lines might cause my fuel pressure problem. I hook everything back up with brand new line (oil cooler line was being used for the tank to pump line) and zip everything up and go to fire it, and after the system pressurizes, it runs for a few seconds then just died. I noticed there were 3 wires by the pump. 1 of course was the red one that's wired straight to the battery through a on off switch in the cab, then there was a green wire and black wire. I hooked up the black wire as I swore the green one was the one just hanging out when I removed the pump. Maybe I have those backwards? Because after the car died and wouldn't start again, I disconnected the lines from the pressure gauge to the fuel rail and not even a drop came out. Also, I was going to pinch off the lines, but there is no port on the pressure regulator with enough room to pinch before the line terminates unless you guys are talking about the vacuum hose.

Could a bad FPR actually cause that low of a fuel delivery pressure?

Ok so I take the gauge assembly off and put air to it, it shoots right up to 35psi which is what the gauge on the air compressor was showing in it at the time, but when I hook it back to the fuel, not a damn thing. Stays constant at about 4psi, shot up maybe a couple psi once but right back down to 4. I'd hate to think there is a fuel pressure gauge that doesn't read fuel's pressure but will show other pressures.

Isn't a 1.15 exhaust housing a weeeee bit way too huge for a stock ZX?

It's on the feed side, hooked into the same rubber line that feeds from the filter. If I had it on the wrong line then fuel wouldn't even enter the engine. This stupid rich running problem is beginning to really get on my nerves. I'm about ready to yank the engine and set it aside and put my V8 in it.