Mycarispurty

Well I wrote the company and they wrote back saying they don't go by numbers, just the labeling. Maybe they do like I figured and kits with more circuits get the missing numbers. All that matters is if I can get my car wired

Ok I got the Hot Rod 12 circuit mini fuse panel kit from a vendor on Ebay. I tore into it tonight, checking every wire for the number, color, and description. When I got done, I entered the information into an Excel spreadsheet and organized them ascending. Well it turns out several wire numbers are missing. For example: 1 Red-Headlight Power 3 Black-AC/Heat Power 6 Red-Radio Constant Power 7 Dark Blue-Wiper Power 9 Red-Gauge Power See how 2, 4, 5, and 8 are missing? And that's just part of the whole harness. I don't know if maybe some of the numbers that are missing aren't there because it's only a 12 circuit kit or what. If anyone has used the 12 circuit and has can shed some light on that I'd appreciate it. I can understand missing 1 or 2 wires maybe, but not a whole buttload like that.

Aha, found a guy that said Skyline engine mounts and isolators bolt right in. That's what I need to find now I guess, I suppose they're the mounts from an RB20 car and will probably be hard to find.

I have read that thread, and search what I can. Just haven't come across too much recent material with mount suppliers. Most of the threads I've seem to come across are older and probably not being made anymore.

No one wants to chime in with currently produceds pieces other than McKinney and Castlemaine?

I am looking around at RB mounts for S30s and have only found information on the net on 2. McKinney Motorsports of course, and then one other shop I can't remember the name of off hand, but they make mounts to put about any engine in anything. I don't really want to pay $500+ just to get a motor in the car and didn't see any prices on the other site's page. Just curious what mount companys people are using these days so I can hopefully find an affordable set of mounts.

Forgot about this post I figured out what it was. I didn't think the clutch slave cylinder down there needed to be removed, but I figured what the heck I will. THEN I felt the other bolt that I wasn't able to see or feel. It was hidden behind the clutch slave cylinder. Once that bolt was out, the engine came right out. Good point about pushing the clutch pedal in like that, I woulda never thought about that. I'll keep that bit of info in my head for future use, whether for me or someone else.

Yeah I was thinking I could do a bolt on hood like that but my hood is in pretty much perfect condition and I don't want to chop holes in it, or get an aftermarket hood, as I've found good ones aren't very cheap haha I guess if I have to, I'll cut the hood latch, was just goin to try and avoid it if I could.

Alright cool, thought it was ignition related but just wanted to double check, thanks. As far as the service manual, I have the one I downloaded from carfiche or whatever that site is, but it's not broken down into seperate .pdf documents for each section of the manual, so I have to scroll down through the whoooooole thing to try and find something, it's very annoying to use.

I've got the JTR manual, read it 100 times. I just want to mainly want to know what that junk in the first pic is, that black box and that white block next to the old AFM bracket. Also what that bracket is below the fusible links. I want to cut those off but not if I'm going to need it for something. Everyone's swap is a little bit different, I don't want to go buck wild cutting stuff off from the fender wells if those things might prove useful in the future.

Ya know what, I'm going to edit this...not even going to bother responding to that.

So I got the L28 and tranny out yesterday and now need to know what part of this stuff I don't need anymore. I know the wiring harness I have to keep if I want headlights and stuff, but I don't know how much of this is still fuel injection stuff or maybe spark stuff that I won't need since it won't be an l28 anymore. Also if you guys see brackets that I won't need anymore and can get a spot weld cutting bit and remove them, point those out as well.

Well dang, I was hoping I wouldn't have to cut those things off...but I guess it'll be easy to get in there now that there is no engine or tranny in the way. I thought I had read in the book that they had to be cut, but then I was reading it again today and it said for automatic or Vette 4+3 users, these tranny mounts have to be cut off. I was just confused and wanted a definate answer from someone who's ahead of me in the game.

I'm looking at my JTR books and it says the stock tranny x-member mounting brackets only need to be hacked away for auto or Vette 4+3 manual installs? So I guess T5 users or 4 speed users don't have to cut those off? It's going in a 77 if that matters.

I'm trying to remove the engine seperate from the tranny on my 280Z. I've got the motor mounts broke loose from the side of the block, all the wires removed, etc. I've removed all the bolts on the bellhousing I can feel. Is there one I'm missing that's on the bottmo of the bellhousing or something? The engine is lifting up and bring the car along with it, it's not seperating and just curious if I missed one. It's been so long since I've removed an engine from a Z I can't remember.

JTR. They discuss in detail in their manual the problems with the MSA kit. They seem like good points to me, I'd just go with JTR.

I prefer LT1s, but then I'm biased since I had one in a Trans Am. The F-body is the place to get an LT1. Other cars like Buick Roadmasters, Caprices, things like that had them, but had iron heads. The f-body ones had the aluminum heads. 93-94 had a flaw kinda in the Opti Spark dizzy's design, go with a 95+ with the vented style if you can. The Vette LT1 blocks should have 4 bolt main caps while the rest were 2 bolt. It's easy to find a place near or in any major city that parts out 4th gen F-bodys. You can usually get a good running, semi low mile LT1 from a wrecked Camaro or whatever with the PCM and wiring for around $700-800. Plus the benefit is all the old trannys bolt up to them. If you have a TH350 laying around from a 70s truck, it'll bolt right up.

Well I hope I can still use the Opti Spark with a carb manifold, if not, that'll defeat the whole purpose. I'm trying to stay away from EFI if I can...but if not, I suppose I can hack up my latch and install the JTR one.

If I use an LT1 with my JTR kit, since the distributor is on the front of the motor and not in the way, do I still have to move the factory hood latch? I'm going to carb the motor anyways, but not quite sure if the latch has to be moved because the distributor is right at it on a traditional small block or not.

I'm pretty sure the valve seats have been changed before since it was a running motor a year ago. I still don't know if I'm going to get it. Even if we get it running, parts of me want to run it as is with a different cam so it'd be a bit 93 octane friendlier. Then part of me wants to just put like some Speed Pro forged flat tops in to bring the compression down a little since I'll probably take most of it apart to change out bearings and seals/gaskets. I guess it depends on what it looks like when we pull it and I yank the oil pan and valve covers to see how the internals look.

Well I might pass on this one. He said he put a fuel pump on it it today and replaced the plug wires that were taken off. He ran the fuel line into a gas can and couldn't get it to fire. He said it cranked over just fine but wouldn't actually fire. We're going to pull it anyways and check a few things on it. I'm going to pull the oil pan to inspect the bottom end of the motor, and if it looks good under there, I might buy it whether we can get it to fire or not. If it looks good in the actual internals, then it should just be something simple, like maybe it has bad plugs, or a bad cap on the distributor, or some of the wires are just shot.

I don't care about a 350 having more cubes and can make more power, I like the 327s. I've always liked them.

Not all of us can dream and spend a ton of money Pyro. I'd still rather have a comparable 327 than a 350.

It's only been a year since he's run it. But he stole the fuel pump and a couple plug wires, so I'm going to borrow a pump and a couple wires for a fire up test before I buy it.

I don't know if the guy's had it running in the truck or whatever. It's setting back in the woods. Haven't got the #s yet. It was set back in the woods and a lot of thorny plants around it. I'm going to wait until he pulls the truck out some and we can get a look at it in the clearing.