Mycarispurty

That bastard >: ( Well I guess it's on to Ebay or one of the various car sites I go to to see if I can find some.

I have some Ultra Lite mech water temp and oil pressure guages I got that are supposedly 2 5/8ths, but they are no where near fitting in the guage pods in my Z dash, I think the guy lied to me about the size. Anyhow, the silver trim ring on the front reads exactly 2 inches from side to side. I'm thinking the ******* lied and sold me the 2 1/16ths after I asked him if they were the 2 5/8ths. I guess I have the wrong ones and need to see about getting the right ones, and just wanna make sure before I put them up for sale and buy new ones.

Ahh good call jimbob, then all I need is something like a brick or whatever that'll sit up and can just let the bag rest on that, against the curves Thanks, that saved me lots of thinking lol

Yeah, I read that AFTER I got off all the easy stuff Now I'll have to scheme up a way to get it to stay in place on the side of the tranny tunnel and the part that curves up towards the firewall.

I didn't really ever have much of an interior in my 280Z to start with so I figured I'd just completely strip it to take care of the light surface rust I saw on the rear of the floor pans before it ate through...plus I'm really bored on off days. Anyhow, took the seats out, took out the rear carpet and all the rear trim panels that were in and figured I'd prep it for sandblasting. Figured while I was at it I would go ahead and remove ALL the sound deadening tar I could get to to knock out as much rust as possible. I just REALLY hope sandblasting will take out the tar I can't reach, and will remove the remnants of the stuff that is left behind. After this, I'm going to coat it with something, either Eastwood Co's Rust Encapsulator or that black waxy stuff that does the same thing but also seals seams. My friend with the sandblaster said he prefers the Eastwood stuff over POR, anyone have any input? Anyways, here's the pics:

Oh I wasn't saying he was a dick or nothing, just kinda funny that he lists a very common piece as rare

Ok you guys can e-punch me in the face if you want, but I have the hardest time understanding some of this Megasquirt stuff. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtii-engine-management-system-wpcb3-assembled-unit-p-65.html Aside from the wiring harness which they do offer, is that the Megasquirt I need? I just want to run the fuel injection of course, but I want it to run my ignition on my stock dizzy (83 turbo motor with 83 dizzy of course) if that's possible, and I want to be able to get rid of that ugly AMF or MAF or whatever it is and run an air filter straight onto the intake side of the turbo. Those are the features I want it for, and if that's the Megasquirt I need for the job, I'd appreciate a simple yes or no

Those are some parts I had Jason do for me a while back, but I'm luckier than Justin, cuz I live about 15 minutes away from him

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-280Z-NISSAN-280ZX-TURBO-N42-HEAD-VERY-RARE_W0QQitemZ230128543632QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33617QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Very rare as in only 5 bazillion of them made. I guess it might be rare since due to wrecks and parts horders, there may be only 2.9 bazillion left for the average joe to purchase.

Even if it does, I'm not going to even try, mine is all dirty and that's way too many wires to keep up with

I got them. I'm definitely going to use an aftermarket, 30 year old parts just won't be trusty enough for me I guess. I just fear having to wire into those combo switches for wipers, lights, turn signals, all that

Thanks for the emails Greg. I looked at that 75 harness, even if the wires aren't all mauled and chewed up, I'm not putting that thing in my car. I think I would rather just balls up and get the aftermarket kit and solder everything to the connection it's going to. Great connection with new wires is probably the best way to go.

Oh my bad, it's a 75 harness, 76 FI harness. The seller wrote me a note in the box they came in, so it's a 75 I guess. I guess I'll take your 75 and 77 harnesses if you don't mind.

Ok I'll take them both. Will suck trying to look through it on a computer screen, but it's better than nothing. Mycarispurty@aol.com

Thanks. It's hard to decide, I've had ZERO cash offers, and a bunch of trade offers for stuff I'm not interested in. I figure if I sell it, if it has intact wiring then it'll be easier to sell. And if I keep it, much better for me afterwards, becuase of better wiring

Well my FI harness is ok for now, just redoing the chassis. I'm not sure if I'm going to stay stock, go turbo motor, or v8 so I'm not touching the FI one yet. I guess I need to find a good 76 wiring diagram so I can see the colors and sorta match them up with mine. I'm not going to be using A/C, just the bare minimum stuff I have to use. If I can't find a good deal on a 77 harness I guess I can make my 76 one work.

I need the part that runs into the engine bay and into the cabin before it branches off into subharnesses for the dash and rear of the car, and has the fuse panel in it. I say subharnesses because I wouldn't imagine they'd use one whole harness to do all of that, but I could be wrong. I know there are some differences, just not quite sure if it's only in plug styles/shapes, or if other circuits were added to later years, or relays were set up in different ways or whatever.

I have a 76 chassis wiring harness (or maybe a 75, can't recall) and I'm curious what are the differences on it and the 77 harness (my car is a 77 5 speed)? Mine has some pretty bad spots where previous owners tried to re-engineer what Nissan did years ago and it didn't turn out so well. I thought about using an EZ Wiring kit but that would require some fancy work getting combo switches and things to work. However, if the other harness I have is good and clean, no screwed up wires or anything, I might just use it and get all the connections good and tight and make sure all my grounds are good and clean and just rewire it. It'd be a lot easier considering all the plugs would be good and wires the right length to lay correctly under the carpet.

That has to do with the fuel injection harness, it's seperate from the one I'm doing.

Just curious what devices in the engine bay run on the chassis wiring harness? I'm thinking since I want to rewire my car (crappy previous owner hack jobs) I might give it a shot with the engine still in the car for ease of the task (not having to pull the motor), then maybe when I pull the motor to swap it, paint the engine bay then. Anyhow, can anyone add or subtract from my list of what I can pull off the top of my head? Lights Turn signals Horn Altrenator Starter Coil Oil pressure sender Fusible links As well as various other little things on the passenger side of the engine I can go out tomorrow and look really well in the engine bay, I just want to know to look for wires that I may not notice that are connected to the chassis harnes. If someone on here has done it with the engine in the car, I might be able to yank all that nasty wire out and install an EZ Wiring kit in the car.

Ahh ok my bad, I always saw people on the CA forums refer to getting parts in the US market for the CA18DET from a Pulsar SE from 88, so I guess that was the first year. Thanks for clering that up Mack.

For a CA18DE (not the turbo model) you probably need to search at Car-Part.com and see if any local junkyards have a Pulsar SE to yank an engine from. And yes, I do believe the 87s came with the DEs as well.

It'll be an F54 non turbo engine with a turbo on it. I talked with Bobby out in Colorado, said he just used the stock electrical oil pressure sender and put a line in hole that for the oil pressure guage, and then took a t-fitting type adapter into the part that mounts to the block that sends water to the heater core for his mechanical water temp guage. I'll just do what he did.

I've got a line on some used Autometer Ultra Lite mech oil pressure and mech water temperature guages. Where's the best places to tap for these "signals" so I can get a good reading? I figure mech guages are cheaper and get a better reading, so why not? Also I read you have to use NPT fittings and things to get the liquids to the guages so they can get a reading. Anyone care to enlighten me on what you went through and if it was a pain in the ass or not, and also what things you have found to make it a little easier. I'm probably going to try and reguage and rewire the car in a weekend with some help. It's nice when your car has pretty much no interior in it, makes things like this a lot easier

I might need one for my 95 T/A and know a lot of you guys use LT1s. Figured I'd see if someone had a low mileage or recently rebuilt one they wanted to part with.