BrandonsZ

Running the 350 since October 2005, daily driver since December 2005, had three problems in nearly two years and 15kmiles. 1. The throttle cable snapped in the first 5k (MSA 350 conversion cable) bad design. 2. I put a vacuum hose nipple on the gasoline return line temporarily... only I forgot about it and it eventually cracked and the pressure in the tank when the tank heated on a hot day pushed gas out the return line (must have been left in the line from December 2004's last run with the six). Luckily it didn't catch fire since it was nowhere near the exhaust. I put a fuel hose on it , bent it over and clamped it, no problem since. 3. Eventually I need to flip the JTR transmission bar (apparently I installed it upside down), it scrapes on speed bumps, but so does the 2.5" dual part of the exhaust... I do have guide rails and a belly plate on my shelf just waiting to go on. I just like driving the car so much I don't want to put it out of commission to re do the exhaust and transmission bar. I finally got all new bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, etc, and moved the lower control arm attachment points per JTR and removed the 1/2" spacers. The drivability is amazingly better. I had all the usual problems, drifting, bad bump steer, really rough ride, now it's really as smooth as my 1991 Volvo, but so much more controllable obviously. The steering is very sensitive, and even less than a 1/4" oz tire out of balance translates to a slightly vibrating steering wheel on the freeway. My next phase will install a lightweight flywheel and a 200 rear, but it'll require a new driveshaft so I'm stalling on that one because as I said, I just really like driving it and a the tone of the exhaust on the freeway at 65-70 is very satisfying (at under 1500rpm with the .5 6th ratio) and I don't want to mess that up with a slightly higher rear. the catalytic converter is holding up, it almost never smells now only if I'm costing for a long distance as the cat falls out of it's operating range of stochastic ratio.

http://zhome.com/Classic/Restore/HubCaps.htm

Mine were the "D" style "240Z had 14-inch wheel hubcaps with five rectangular holes and large chrome D (for Datsun) in the center. 260Z and 280Z had 14-inch wheel hubcaps with five triangular holes and a large Z in the center. " I guess the "D" means $ But hold the phone, the ashtray is worth $100??? I got one I'm not using! Really? $100

Well... 1. I treid to "roll the fenders", that didn't turn out as well as I had hoped. 2. I cut a few wires that didn't seem to do anything, still wondering what they did. 3. Anything crossed by the exhaust needs to be accessed after the exhaust is taken out. 4. To change the clutch you're going to have to remove the whole drivetrane. 5. 3/4 of the marker lights are let's say "special". Yes they were rusted to hell, yes the bulb broke off when I needed to replace it, yes I hard soldered in a bulb 3X. Who sells the crappy steel sidemarkers? #1 really depresses me sometimes especially when one of my drunk friends remarks, "what happened to your fenders?" It's not that bad, just look's bad the closer you get to it.

I sold a set of really rusted hubcaps for over $140, I was certainly surprised they sold for that much. They were rusted, pitted, I sent people interested many pictures of the rust close up and they were still interested, some were out of the country and couldn't bid somehow, and wanted me to sell to them directly, why? Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone wants rusted bent 14" rims with extreamly cracked tires before I pay $5.00 to dispose of them. Maybe I shouldn't have thrown out that old radio with the missing knobs.

That should clean up nicely! Just a few cans of POR-15, and a few more welding rods. Give him some time. You know, I myself started with a car that was less than stellar. It's still less than stellar, but that's besides the point.

come to find out, the socket was rusted out and the lightbulb broke off in the socket, had to be pried out with pliers and there are no replacement fixtures available.

I almost had that $100!!! Dang. Must feel pretty good to finally find the problem, I hadf this horrible backfiring problem on my (carburated) truck and turns out the vac advance hose had a leak so every time I put the pedal down it backfired! I truely tried everything short of buying a new distributor, found it in about 5 minutes after I tried to move the vac advance to the other port because it wasn't advancing as much as it should. Silly. Had no power, and backfired all the time, just a tiny little crack in the line. IT WAS A NEW PLUG on the port! Congrats!

You should probably read a sticky before the admins come down on you for your language. For some crazy reason they like proper punctuation, sentance structure and spelling. --translation-- is lie dis yo, ya gatta giv big props to the admin dog. g's got it goin on fa shizzle. you cant type street in Run's house dig? ~peace out~

Ah yes, this is a common problem. I have an answer for you sure enough. It's missing because you don't have enough blinker fuel in the #2 auxiliarry turbine. Yes, I know you say, what the heck is the #2 auxiliarry turbine doing with a low fuel indication when the #4 is purring like a kitten, I say to that, good question, it's simple, you see when your blinker fuel is low, it causes a thermal shift in the proximity detector which will in turn randomly activted the safety protocol. This leads to messy "missed" responces from the computer center. Of course once you return the blinker fuel to it's proper level you may still experiance misses, that would then indeed be a gremlin. No not that fantastic 70's dreamride, but that little green furry bugger that wont' stop cranking on your nuts. Just go out and buy yourself some gremlin repelant, Calco auto used to sell that, but not lately, due to the oil shortage. Good luck! Oh, and since this is a Japaneese car, you'll have to get the Japaneese Gremlin repellant. It's a little more exensive but you knew that would be the case when you went out and bought a foriegn car. Hope this helps! oh you could also search, or give more information, people round here are usually really willing to help, anyway, but you could try to search. Or just write another vague sentance like, "car won't start what do I do" or "what's matter with my g'ride humpty?" We here (members) at Hybrid Z really respect the peeps and give big props to the cause. Wot wot?

what you are describing is typical of a lean condition, turning your AFM lean was the mistake. You could have gotten about 10% increase in mileage running lean instead of rich, but obviously you've paid the price of the cat and possibly other things. Yes if you run lean you WILL run hot, and red hot manifolds are s sure sign. Search the forum for a more detailed explaination if you do not get one here. Oh and yes you will eventually damage you engine by running lean which is why usually we run a little rich to be safe.

1999, a Diablo II sword was sold for over $1000. I can't remember how much over. It was on the news.

Tom Lycas would be proud. No "Hail Marry" needed.

Hey maybe that Prius is looking good after all. If Hybrids like the Prius don't need smog checking, and CA has no inspectons, I'm thinking someone could pull off a smog exempt V8 Prius? Of course that'd be illegal and immoral, so I'm too chicken to do it. My car actually has MORE smog related components than the stock Z did. The exhaust coming out of my car actually smells like nothing compared with the exhaust coming out of my Volvo which smells like burnt oil and unburnt gas. When CA passes whatever crappy law and I can't pass smog from my Z or truck, I'm going to take a 1950's truck, put the drivetrain from my Z and the 4x4 guts of my 1973 F250 truck to create a bad ass 4x4 styleside.

Uo??