NZeder

I have been absent from this forum for a number of years - I am close to Ross age and this is very sad news. As someone sitting at the bottom of the world in New Zealand Ross was great to deal with, I purchased a number of parts over the years from Ross for a number of Zed I have owned - in fact Ross was the first international part purchase I did using the internet many many years ago not long after he first started up MML - always replying to my contact in good time I never had any issues in deal with Ross and MML. Very sad to hear of this news. I only just found out by looking for parts for a new zed project (have 4 kids keeps you our of the shed away from projects) Way to young to go. RIP Ross you were an outstanding supplier to this international community.

i have 2 sets of the factory rings and have been looking for new lenses for a while can't wait until the lens are available. I will take 2sets of the lenses

Thanks guys got all the info I need on the FIA setup wanting to know more about the other options available in period ie the Lockheed and Airheart/Hurst options that Datsun Competition USA where offering.

Hi all, Looking for info, specs and photos of the period setup Datsun Competition USA sold back in period. This is what I know. Partnumber are listed on number of books eg "How to Hot Rod and Race your Datsun" and the Datsun Competition Parts Catalogs. Going by part number the same size rotor was used front and rear and it was 11.5" however I can't find specs on how wide it was. Also there were a few options for the calipers 1. The Airheart/Hurst Caliper setup 2. The AP Caliper setup 3. The FIA Caliper and rotor setup I know the FIA Caliper setup used different rotors but did the Airheart/Hurst setup and the AP setup use the same rotors? If anyone can assist with info, spec and ideally photos of the setups on the car - that would help me with my application locally here in New Zealand to get my car approved as a period spec setup. Also I believe someone was at some point was selling a JFZ setup/kit for the Z if anyone has info/spec and photos of these JFZ setups that would also help no end at all. I am building my car to 75 spec as that was when Nissan had the L28 approved in the S30 chassis. Please PM me or post here or if you want to email me directly please PM for email details. Regards Mike, New Zealand.

Interesting you say that - I recall seeing a pic of that too. I have recently read the FIA HTP Appendix K rules and it states the following So I guess the original supplier = Sumitomo. The original part is the MK63 which uses 4 x 41.3 pistons and a 104mm pad. So the replica part is from the original supplier aka Sumitomo it is a 4 pot 42.8mm and 105mm pad. I guess the FIA is technically ok with that then as close enough given both are cast iron etc.

I am going to be running a RB on triple carbs...when I get a round to working the car again. With regards to the timing I have a few options/ideas that I will work on. 1 a dizzy setup. For this I plan to get a RB30e dizzy and strip that and see if I can mate that with the cas. 2. Use the electromotive xdi crank trigger wasted spark. 3. Use a microsquirt with crank trigger and 3 external coil drivers in wasted spark mode. This does also give the option of going to efi via batch injection.

I am confused. In your post you mention the part number for the z31 diff flange as 38210-y0800 then in your next post is the image. The #1 in the image looks like 38210-10v00 to me ie the round flange with the square bolt pattern--- see here for info on the 2 type of z31 driveshaft and diff flange setup. http://www.xenonz31....eshaftinfo.html

wow I posted about this 2 years earlier...just all my pictures in my post went south and as the post was so old I could not go back and edit the post to update the image links. Here is the thread I posted my findings just with out pictures:( http://forums.hybrid...ssue/page_st_60 See post 61 (the images are there still just the thumbnail images have been lost...) One thing that is different is I found WD21 aka your pathfinder and the Nissan Terrano V6 I got my donor axles from did not have tripod joints on either end. I only found the tripod on the 3x2 end of the Terrano TD27 power vehicles. These 3x2 WD21 axles have a smaller diameter on this one tripod end. I believe Wheelman found a tripod joint inside the 5 star end of the V6 axle, but it was discovered to share the same diameter and spline count as the other end aka both match the diameter and spline of the z31 300zxt shaft. What Wheelman did was put both ends of the z31 300zxt on to this WD21 V6 axle then made a space to effectively lengthen the overall shaft so it would fit correctly. I did not do this I am using shortnose R200 plugins that match my LSD centre, in my case a 5 x star plugin then I swapped the z31 300zxt outer aka 4 bolt joint on the other end of the WD21 axle, this is bolted to the MM adaptors. The end result is the same a shorter CV axle. I do show in the picture in the old post a complete axle setup using the 3x2 not the 5x1 star I am using but they are the same length.

Old thread but thought I would say I recently ordered a new LD28 pump from Nissan - it came from Nissan in Japan to the local dealership here in Auckland NZ. First it was very very $$ but it is 100% the correct item, new in the box with the larger cast impeller shown above in the post by ozconnection. So they can still be had from Nissan as I recently got one.

might be a little off topic, if a new head was to be cast why has no body mensioned a re cast of the LY heads or the also very rare FIA L6 heads, as both of these type of heads were used in period by Nissan and this would allow them to be used in classic/historical racing classes. Ok there a few sticking points, first you have get hold of one of these rare items then after selling all you internal organs for it then you have to cut it up so you can model it. Now you have to sell your limbs so you can get it recast.....so this is why it has not happened

Pete, good to see you RB/L6 hybrid posted on here. I would love one of your kits but with my recent purchase that will have to wait. I would love to see if the setup could be chain driven however that has a number of issue in is self, or how about gear driven now that would very different. I know us downunder are lucky to have RB30's and I see those kits for those not so lucky that have a plate and new liners to get the extra block height has anyone done that/thought of doing the same to the L6 blocks? I have said this before (can't remember which forum now) but kiwi cylinder heads here in Auckland cast a number of heads including the Nissan 4 cylinder crossflow head (z20/z22/z24 not the best head but) it makes me think if it could be possible to make a L6 crossflow head.

I am interested to know how much brake clearance there is on the RK-R I like the sizing 15x8 +10 (ET10)

wow 3 weeks and I have not gone out to the shed..... can't wait for the weather to warm up a bit here. Well my setup is not for a/c but that should be easy to do if that is what you want. I need to get this job done and ticked off the list.

Ok I got the AirCon amplifier that controls the actuator that hooks into the water tap (and the blend/air mixing door on the factory later model Nissan's). I have traced out the wiring and got the actuator working using a cable to open close the stock water tap. So all actuators are installed/mounted, I need to tidy up the looms for each part then I will paint up the brackets and document the install with pictures and a write up.

Well it has been a while. It is winter here now and the race season is over so I have been back out to the shed. I am almost complete with my later model Nissan control conversion. I have mounted the recycle actuator and that works perfect. I have mounted another of the standard recycle actuators on the foot/cabin doors and that works perfect. And I have mounted the standard actuator (which on the donor car does Vent, Vent/foot (aka bi-level), Foot, Foot/Def and Def aka 5 positions) to the standard blend door. I have had to alter the control circuit so the standard actuator works just like the stock cable setup - ie Vent, Bi-Level and full closed. I also had to make my own circuit to control the extra actuator for the foot/cabin door and all works as I want. I also have another heater control panel that uses an actuator to control the water tap - I am going to give that a go to, but I need to go back to the pick-a-part wrecker and get the AirCon Amplifier as this drives this actuator - I could build my own circuit again as I have that worked out but it might be easier/faster to just use the standard Nissan item. I will update this post again once that is sorted....watch this space.