NZeder
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Posts posted by NZeder
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Sorry for the slight highjack
nitr0,
you could pick up a L20ET from a skyline, leopard or laurel (the laurel is the best I have been told as these are a larger car and have the same downpipe etc of the L28ET found in the USA). Then pickup a F54/P90 NA motor from a 280zx 81 or above send me the flat - pistons
install some N42 pistons and bolt all the L20ET stuff on (replacing the turbo with a Z31 single turbo larger and better than the L20ET unit). Use the L20ET cam - or have this re ground as these have lots of meat. And one more thing use Z31 turbo injectors if you want to have hole tail type. This will give you the same setup as the L28ET from the US but without the shipping expence = you could use the $$ saved to purchase some nice forged pistons.Or I can sell you all these bits from my Laurel
I will be visiting Melbourne on business in early January so I could put into a box and take as luggage (If I travel light on the rest of the luggage) However I will be keeping the Cam.Back to the topic RB30 here in NZ they are becoming harder to find now also as most are getting used up by the import crew for building RB30DET and installing into drag cars, drift cars, race cars and the old wild street car
a Clint. -
I Had a chance to drive it at SEZ and can vouch. It is stout. Lightning fast throttle responce and ran very well. I think for 2600 this system would be a steal.
So how does it compare to your turboed car for power delivery?
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No I forgot to get some - I will see if I can get some when I return to NZ - I am O/S on business right now.
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What size wheels are you looking to replicate? 15" or 16" and how wide?
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Well the steel metal worker looking to replicating the chrome trim for me (note replica not copy ie same material = stainless steel) said it would be too costly to create the tooling to get the double bend from stainless (almost like a very wide and flat U shape). So I have ordered a new set from Japan (the set I got with my G-Nose was missing one side of the chrome trim and the covers were cracked).
So I have now being thinking of making the bands out of something else and using some of these chrome paints that are around these days - maybe a plastic, other option is brass then get this chromed. The really cheap and nasty option would be to get a set of covers make and just paint the edge chrome.
Next step is to replicate the covers and come back to the trim later.
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That Laurel strikes me as some sort of really old skool Skyline..
Actually it is very similar to a 77-79 810 coupe
Funny you should say that - the running gear is the same as the R30 Skyline's that we also got here in NZ. And I plan on using the front suspension is my 120Y coupe (B210) as it looks to be a straight swap. I will install a L16 and dogleg 5 spd I have to create a 160Z replica (in South Africa and in Japan the B210 was sold with the L4). In S.A they were called 140Z (L14 power) and 160Z(L16 power) both fitted with twin dellortos from the dealer. In Japan they were called Nissan Sunny Excellent again fitted with either the L14 or L16. I plan to build this as a run little track car they are under 815kg in road trim so with cage and bits I should get to about the same or less and have some fun on a cheap budget.
The first pic of the Cedric aka 260c hardtop we did not get here in NZ we only got the 4 door (non hardtop ie doors with frames). However there might be some private imports of the hardtops. How about this beast a 810 fitted with a different front end called a Bluebird GT and fitted with the L20a from the factory.
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I would go for the Nissan C31 Laurel, I have one I picked up for $100 NZD = $73 USD, got it for the R200 diff, front suspension (going to use that in another future project - bigger disc brakes + vented at that) and maybe some of the engine bits. It is a Laurel Medalist Turbo. It is powered by a L20ET so sticking a L28ET would be easy + big power gain. It would be a real wolf in sheeps clothing. Or find a Cedric (260c is what they were called locally here in NZ)of the late 70's a C330 here is a pic of the hardtop - fitted with L26 = again easy swap.
Here are a few pics of my Laurel
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but in the end they just are not Watanabe's.
True
I wonder what Konig would charge for the same size we have NZeder?Yes it would be good to know
You pay for what you get and boy did I pay but I look and drool at the end result. Now all I need is to get the L28ET in and paint next year and I will be golden.I know the feeling - can't wait to see your car when it is complete. So did you sell that twin turbo THRUST RHD setup in the end (I think it was you I talked/emailed about 1 year ago now)
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Rewinds just don't do them justice...
RS Watanabe's are the business but I am sure there would be a market for the same size in Rewinds if they were to make them (I am sure there would be a number of people who would go for ZG overfender + wider rims if the rims were on the right side of their budget). I have a set of the Watanabe's in the same size a 240ztt but I would happily purchase a set of Rewinds in the same size (16x8.5 -6 and 16x9.5 -19)
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Thanks NZeder. Did you go with the L28crank/L24 rod combo or changed route? It seems ArizonaZ is the only solution' date=' expensive though. How's your build coming along?
Cheers, Ari[/quote']
I have not started on the engine - but I am thinking I will go the L28crank/L24 rod with custom pistons for my rebuild engine (F54/N42 or E88 combo) and I will stick my other stock F54/N42 combo in to begin with.
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The LZ22S piston is not designed for high RPM in fact I recall seeing in an article that stated they would be not good above 5000rpm. I am/was thinking the same my self, L28 crank, L24 rods and a piston with a 35.5mm pin height to give a better rod/stroke ratio much closer to the L24 ratio. Has anyone used the pistons from LZ20 or LZ22s and is the higher RPM an issue?
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whats the size diff between the l28 and l24 rods? that stroker kit says it uses l24 rods.
L28 = 130.3mm C-2-C
L24 = 133mm C-2-C
L20et rods I believe are also 133mm C-2-C (this is what the Japanese use to build 3.1, I will know more when I pull my L20et to bids
- some of the L20a also use 133mm C-2-C I believe) If you have not heard of a L20et don't worry it is a JDM engine that we also get here in NZ (shares a lot of parts with the L28et ie exhaust manifold, dizzy (some have a different model), oil pump, down pipe that is about it)Cheers
Mike
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"RS Watanabe's 8 Spoke Type R" I believe is the full description of my rims.
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nice pcs of the cars, there really nice!! those pics i see of you fittin your wheels on your dads Z, the last picture has me confised a lil tho, did you test fit 16x8.5" wheels up front and 16x9.5" in back or just the 16x8.5" in back. Im just tryin to figure out what size is in that #9 photo as the wordin has me confised some... Cause it says front 16x8.5" with 225/50r16 and rears with 245/45/r16 tires on 16x9.5" wheels is this correct and what the pics show?? if so I really like it and would look really good with my rear fender flares...!! Thanks for the info man!!
Thanks for the comments - when test fitting my wheels on Dad's car I installed the 8.5" on the front and the 9.5" on the rear. The fronts tires are 225/50/16 and the rear tires are 245/45/16. Hope that clears things up a little.
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Was this setup on stock fenders as well?? and what tire size was this??
if you visit my site your questions will be answered with pics but tire = 225/50/16 on 16x8.5-6 on the fronts. Yes this was installed on dads car with stock fenders but there will be clearance issues (see pics on my site). These wheels are for my car which is flared - I need to check the BS to make sure I did not need coilovers (suspension still out of my car).
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Here is pic of my wheels on a Zed (dads) with stock suspension. These rims have 4.5" backspace are 16x8.5 -6 (so from rim to rim 9.5" = BS 4.5")
Hope this helps with what will work with stock setup.
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Just spotted this thread - also I noticed the question "does anyone sell the stroker under 2K?" Well I found this link today also.
wow under $1100 for new stroker kit
at the price I am sure a number of these will go?
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intresting, as my l20et Dizzy does not look like your one on the left. I have two of them and they both have the slotted pickup disk....... (optical) ? im unsure, but they look nothing like your version on the left. What year l20et's were they out of ?. mine is the 85 version.
I have two of those Dizzy like the one of the left both from C31 Laurel L20ET years are 82 and 83. Interesting that yours is the optical, that what I was looking for when I purchased my 2 dizzies (one came with a car for $100) the other I got from Trademe. In the end I got the L28ET from ebay as I knew it would be the optical unit. If I knew I could get one locally I would have tried harder and save all the shipping from the USA.
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Sulio,
Next time I am in Melbourne on Business I will have to catch-up with you and Gav - if the timing is right I might get to see your wheels in the flesh
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Ok here are the PICS I promissed earlier. These show the differences between the L20ET (that we get in a number of JDM imports here in NZ and OZ ie early Skylines R30, Laurels C31, Leapords ??. I have even seen the same dizzy in a L20E powered Fairlady ZX ie L20 factory installed in a 280zx body JDM)....they say a pic is worth 1000's words so I will let them speak for them selves.
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Scheisse. I stand corrected, sir. I'm very glad you brought that to my attention, I was definitely assuming the backspace was a measurement from the inside lip. That means I have less room to work with than I thought.
Pleased to help - would not like to see anyone spend their hard earned $$ on the wrong rims, been there done that.
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Close but don't forget that the a RIM measurement is almost + 1" beed to beed ie a 7" rim is so close to a 8" beed to beed lets call it 8". So my rims are 16x8.5 -6 (check spes and marking on the back of the rim again to be sure) and 16x9.5 -19. These rims from beed to beed are 9.5 for the fronts and 10.5 for the rears so that makes 4.5" backspace.
Also from the sticky in this section Wheel/Tires
see http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html#backspace
Cheers
Mike
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Dennis,
As Oz did not get the L28ET (like most of the world) you might find it hard to find one locally. If you have the F54/P90 (non turbo config - I have seen a few here in NZ also) it should have just the stock EI dissy + flattop pistons. I have purchased a L20ET to see if these use the L28ET dissy that the guys state side use with megasquirt. However they are a crank sensor unit but are not optical like the L28ET. I will try and take some pics tonight when I get home to show the differences between the L20ET dissy, L28ET dissy (I purchase from ebay) and the CAS on the crank.
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Tony D - that sounds like the one....to the others I did not get to the car in the weekend (at a mate house outside) and it was raining all weekend + the misses had me repairing/rebuild a fence on the farm that took most of the weekend (nothing like working outside in the cold rain, holding a chainsaw on a muddy bank trying to hold your ground and cut a post and rail fence and hoping like hell you don't slip and end up with a shorter leg)
I will see if I can get the pic and post by tomorrow evening (I will pop out at lunch time and get the pic)
install some N42 pistons and bolt all the L20ET stuff on (replacing the turbo with a Z31 single turbo larger and better than the L20ET unit). Use the L20ET cam - or have this re ground as these have lots of meat. And one more thing use Z31 turbo injectors if you want to have hole tail type. This will give you the same setup as the L28ET from the US but without the shipping expence = you could use the $$ saved to purchase some nice forged pistons.
a Clint.
Really an L28?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Might be possible. L20a = 69.7mm stroke, 79mm bore = 2000cc
L20a block with L28 crank and rods = 79mm stroke, 79mm bore = 2300cc
L20a block with 0.160 over bore, L28 crank and rods = 79mm stroke, 83mm bore = 2600cc ie a L26.
I know the P30 blocks (ie L24 and L26 block) can be bored to 86mm so if the L20 blocks have the same water jackets etc of the L24/L26 blocks then it should be possible.
Best way to tell is get the block casting number, ie P30, N42, F54 (does anyone know that a L20 block should be? I can look at Dad's L20 tomorrow when I visit his place (just don't know right now)