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NZeder

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Posts posted by NZeder

  1. Nice colour (yep that is the way we spell it down under). My Zed was green - going to keep it that way. I have a set of gold mags for her and I am thinking of green with a gold metallic. I just love the colour of yours any more info on the paint spec? 4 parts 1 part? PM if you like.

  2. nzeder

    your car is awesome!!

    racerx

    all your pics kick ***

    im out

    juan

     

    Thanks for the kind words - I let my panelbeater (my bro) know also good to get positive feedback. My car has a long way to go yet.

     

    RacerX - excellent pics. I love to see pics from your collection along with AlanT's and others just love to see Z racecars + ZG's. Anyone have pics of a ZG with a GT40 type twin stripe - save me the time in learning how to put one on a photo using photoshop or GIMP.

  3. You can get g-nose hinges from baddogparts.com

    Headlight covers - just got a new set from Japan myself geniune Nissian units still in the boxes not cheap cost me $600 NZD = $400 USD today. Have never heard of glass headlight covers. When I purchased my G-Nose (the other day, 5 piece from a JDM 2+2 260z guy did not like the length so we did a deal, with urethan bumper etc) it had original headlight covers and they were plastic, however they were cracked and one of the chrome/stainless steel bands was missing so this is why I purchased a new set from Japan. I was told by the Japanese man that help me find and import these that there are now only 4 original set left in Japan (with me taken the 5th set). I am not 100% sure if this is true but they are NLA from Nissan so some guys might have these hidden away like the guy I got mine from.

     

    Here is something different with my G-Nose. As stated it is a 5 piece unit but the lower section is not made from glass but it is all steel - yes all steel, nice piece of work also - looks factory with all the pressed lip etc. If this was had mand by someone that have done an excellent job - does look to be factory made. Not Nissan Factory as they never made the G-Nose lower section is steel. Here are some pictures.

     

    G_Nose_1.jpg

    G_Nose_4.jpg

    G_Nose_5.jpg

    G_Nose_8.jpg

    G_Nose_11.jpg

    G_Nose_12.jpg

    G_Nose_13.jpg

  4. Mike - can't recall is the JDM Fairlady a S30 or S31 or GS30 or GS31? I have done some checking for a RHD dash - most are cracked also so I think it would be easier to get it recovered/repaired in the US. The other option is just to get a molded carpet cover in RHD (I have one and they can be purchased in Australia for low $USD)

     

    How about a Nissan Titan VK56DE 5.6 all alloy DOHC V8 repower?

     

    Cheers

    Mike

  5. This might help. I just sold/swapped my set of Compomotive ML (minilite look alike made in the UK). They were 15x7 -6 and 15x8 -12 so that would be measured outter rim to outter rim 15x8 and 15x9 (or there abouts). The tires are 205/55/15 front and 225/50/15 on the rear. There were not wide enough for my car (custom flares).

     

    The car these are now fitted to is a 260z 2+2 with stock fenders. However for 100% clearance on the rear the lip should be rolled only in the top section. However there is more than enough room on the inside between the stock suspension and wheel/tire combo. Therefore I believe a 15x8" with 0 offset would fit with no modification to fender or suspension (I know these will work on the rear, the front might be close and may require mods to fit the 15x8")

     

    I took some measurements from these rims before I sold them here they are with some calculation.

     

    15 x 7" offset -6 total rim = 8". Backspace = 3.75" (using calculated = 3.764"). So 8" - 3.75" = frontspace = 4.25". These clear stock fender and suspension

    15 x 8" offset -12 total rim = 9". Backspace = 4" (calculated 4.028"). So 9" -4" = 5" of frontspace. These don't fit the front too wide. stick out by 3/4" but will fit rear of 2+2 with slight lip rolling to ensure not tire rub (the tire I had installed have quite a rounded side wall)

     

    So using this a 15x7" 0 offset will work on the fronts not a problem = 4" BS and FS. and 15x8" 0 offset will work on the rears with no mods = 4.5" BS and FS. But these might be 0.5" too wide for the fronts.

     

    Here is a link to a pic of a 240z with Compomotive ML in 15x7" and 15x8" both with 0 offset this car has stock fenders.

    7133IMG_0584.jpg

    7133DSC00116.JPG

    7133DSC00120.JPG

     

    Here are pic of my wheels fitted to a 240z with stock suspension and fenders with the - offsets they are a bit wide (these were for my car with flares but they just fit a stock 2+2, these appear to have a little more room in the rear, if the rear lip is rolled just a little to ensure no tire rub) Again these are 15x7" -6 and 15x8" -12.

    7025Comps-on-F_R-more-from-rear.JPG

    7025Comps-on-F_R.JPG

    7025Comps-on-R-rear.JPG

    7025Comps-on-R-side.JPG

     

    you can see from the shot of the rear shows that the -12 offset makes them a close fit on stock fenders with a 0 offset this will move the rim in closer to the spring by 12mm (or almost 0.5" ) there is enough room to allow this (but not much more with stock spring diameter) Compare this to the photo of Dans Z above (blue car) with the 0 offsets and you see they fit much better.

     

    Hope all this helps. Also this will help also. Years ago I purchase a set of performance superlites for my 240z race car in the following spec.

    15x8 -2. I had 245/50 slicks fitted and the just fitted the rear of a 2+2 (they did not fit my racecar with stock fenders, it was a 240z, but they worked fine once I rolled the lip) with a smaller tire this should work but it will be very close depends on the car and the tire combo. They were too wide for the fronts but another Z club member purchased them from me and run them on his 260z 2+2 for a number of seasons (he had to roll the lips on the front, he also did the rears to ensure they were never going to be any issues, however this was not required)

  6. I mean' date=' TWM throttle bodies are around $350... So an E-Bay Manifold, a Megasquirt, and Viola!

     

    No jets, no density change problems, NO JETS!

     

    LOL[/quote']

     

    Been thinking about this for sometime myself, triples vs triple TB. However I have a 260z so I will need to get a fuel pump, surge tank, injectors etc so this is what is holding me back these add extra $$ to the swap. If you have a 280z (we did not get these here only EFI on 280zx or the JDM Fairlady Z ie S31 that were imported in the 80's secondhand) this make sence given the cost of the TB vs carbs.

  7. Will the l20et run a l28et.

    I assume your talking ECU here - I would try and pickup a L28ET from ebay etc to be on the save side (I don't know that answer just guessing)

    ALso i have hear rumors that The l28 sits on a diffrent angle to a l20et and the Bell hosing will not bolt onto the l28 due to this angle. Corrent me if im wrong?

    Have not heard this before - I don't think Nissan would do such a thing why manufacture a new gearbox chasing because you angle the engine differently when you have lots of L Series gearbox and engine in different models that are the same. Here is my thought on this one.

    The L28E from the 280zx fits a 240/260z. The L28E from a Laurel fits a 240/260/280z and 280zx (has the same sump). The L20E from a fairlady and the laurel are interchangeable. The R30 L20E will fit into a Zed with a different sump and oil pickup (front sump on these cars) so why would Nissan make a completely different gearbox for the L20ET/L28ET? Just does not make any manufacturing sense also Nissan quickly replaced the L20e/et in the skylines and laurels for the RB engine = this is the time for the change.

     

    Just my 2c worth.

  8. I am not sure about the injector sizing - one of the turbo guys might be better to answer this one but at 800cc different I am sure that L20ET will have smaller injectors. I believe the L20ET put out 145ps in stock form where as the L28ET is more like 220ps (correct me please this is a guess). So again the injectors will be different going by these figures.

  9. I believe the guys in Japan use the L20ET on the L28 also as far as I know on the USA got the L28ET. A number of guys here in NZ have used the L20ET in the past so yes I believe they are the same setup.

     

    Hope this helps

  10. If NA is the thing you are after - seem to be a waste on the RB26 - import a RB30E (all are single cam) then put the RB25 head one top = RB30DE put on some throttle bodies. Re the head you will need the RB25DE head from a R32 if you get the R33 head (a better head I am lead to believe) you need to have it modified (oil gallery needs to be relocated, not a big job though).

     

    RB30 are easy to come buy in NZ and OZ (for now, but I am sure many are starting to collect these....aren't you Clint ;) )

     

    From time to time here in NZ you see the combo up for sale (ie already build RB30DE or RB30DET)

     

    Re the 6speeder as stated above they appear to be not that strong.

  11. well get this i drive a 2000 S15 200sx (6 speed) and i had to get the gearbox rebuilt at 65k, F__K ME, thats just wrong! It is pretty much stock, just a twin pipe off the turbo and 3" mandrel bent right through, yeah i drive it reasonably hard, but thats just rediculous!!!

     

    Not happy about that I bet - Clint forget what I said about S15 then - you know keep it as they are the last of the 200sx and given it is the R-Type. If that is going to happen every 65K dump it now.

  12. Tony D,

     

    Nice pic - so mike there you go close to 200hp and 9k RPM. Tony - what have to done to the timing to allow 9K RPM, looks like you have a crank trigger setup - I believe anything above 8K required are replacement from the common/shared gear drive. Using an E88 - was this a 240z/260z E88 - I have heard the best e88 to use is the Nissan Cedric or 260C E88 as these have a smaller cumbustion chamber than the Z E88 head (ie no welding required just install bigger L28 valves and in your case with the L20a block work to ensure these larger valves don't cause issues with the top of the block). Would I be correct in guessing the you are using 40mm carbs?

     

    Mike if the car has had the engine replaced - and you really want a L20a (or L20e EFI) then I could see if I can locate on here however shipping will be the killer)

  13. The gearbox will be what we call a 240z/260z B box downunder. The 280z B box has a wider 2 to 3 than the 240z/260z B box. Most Z in this part of the world have the 240z/260z B box only the 280zx had the wider 5 speeds. They are a good gear box to have as they are quite close ratio with only a wide 1st to 2nd. My 260z has one of these.

     

    re the cam cover yep most L series have those. The rare ones are the same down here also. ie 2400 o.h.c (on the series I 240z), I believe there were also 2000 o.h.c for the very early L20a (twin 40mm SU carbs not like the 240z 48mm SU). Only the very late L28 83-87 (yep the JDM keep using the L series until the R31 skylines when the RB relaced the L series) had the very chunk NISSAN cam covers.

     

    Most of the RHD dash crack. Here in NZ I had my covered/restored. Other than that I am sure I could see if I can find one for you?

     

    Regards

    Mike

  14. Mike,

     

    That sound correct re the look of the car and the bumpers - we did not get the 280z bumper on any of our Zs. All have the 240z type - my Z is a 1977 260z basically bodies is like a 1977 280z but with 240z bumper, euro tail lights and RHD. Trim is the same as the 280z. The S31 did have different trim (this might be the look of the 240z ie vinyl etc but with 280z like door trim etc). My 260z had carpet not the vinyl and does not have the vented hood - the only vented hoods I have seen have been LHD 280z imports from your part of the world. With the mesh grill I would say it is a S31 (I believe all S31 were L20e ie injected L6 1998cc).

     

    So is this a S31 or a GS31 (2+2)?

     

    yes those figure I poster were for the L20e six for the S31 model (other model cars that used the L20e got less power - I guess via different cam timing)

     

    Regards

    Mike L.

  15. On a side note - I have never seen a P79 or P90 head before (I have not had a good look at any Turbo L Series engines here in NZ). N42 are very common on the JDM L series engines. My L28 out of 1981 Nissan Laurel left the factory with the following block head combo, F54 and N42.

     

    I believe these L20e engines in stock form output approx 120hp net (ie flywheel HP). You might find this Fairlady is a S31. These are the same body as the S30 but the trim is different (dash looks the same as the 260z/280z but I believe the angle of the 3 guages is different) some even had electic windows fitted and there were other trim differences. Well that is about it from me when it comes to these JDM fairladies - sorry I can't help anymore.

     

    Next week I will visit a ex Nissan Japan mechanic I know and see what info I can get from him.

     

    Ok - update he is what I found on a Japanese site re performance from the stock L20e engine

     

    "L20E (SOHC1998cc * EGI electrically controlled gasoline injection device): 130ps/6000rpm and 17kg-m/4400rpm"

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