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NZeder

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Posts posted by NZeder

  1. Just spotted this thread - I have the stock 200zr pan and the engine is not in the car it is on the stand so I take those measurement for you if you like off the stock pan also.

     

    Let me know if you need them - I will get them for you anyway.

     

    Cheers

    Mike

    • Like 1
  2. ohhhh....now I know :). Must have been awesome to see that car up close and in person
    So given the photo's you posted have Copyright on them did you check with the owner if you could link/post them in this thread. It is very easy for us all to do this kind of stuff (link pics/save pics etc) but we should not forget that they belong to someone else and we should respect their copyright.
  3. My PS is too light so no feel, electric may be a solution?
    I guess one of the good things about the electric assist setup's is that they stop working at some speed/point. So you can use some PWM circuitry to change the speed sensor before inputting to the EPAS ECU (Electric Power Assist Steering) and thus giving you the feel/feedback you require.
  4. I am sure there might be a market for these types of setups

    1-4-06_059.JPG

    What I did was go to a captive energy suspension mount - search on here for captive engine mounts and you will find a thread started by me. In my case I have also gone to RB power but I was going to use this same setup on a L6 - ie modify the mount on the block like Monzter did but to take the slightly wider ears of the energy suspension mount (this is what I did to the RB mounting kit that was designed for the stock L6 engine mounts)

     

    So there you have 2 possible options - the ones that Monzter has done (replicate that) or move to the energy suspension mount like I did - again some mods required to the mount bracket.

  5. L20a uses ~128.016mm rods!

     

    L18 are ~130.3528mm

    L16/24 are ~133.9436mm

    L13 are ~139.9032mm

     

    L20b are ~~145.9mm

    Having pulled/owned 3 sets of L20a rods I can confirm the following.

     

    Pre 79 L20a have 133mm rods ie the same as the L24 and with 9mm rod bolts too. The post 79 L20a and the L20et have 135mm rods but with 19mm little ends and the smaller big ends aka L24e/Maxima journal sizing. I have not seen L20a rods that are 128mm ever and all the Japanese sites use L20a rods when building strokers as they are 133mm and the numbers work out.

     

    Plus as stated at 128mm the piston would be 4+ mm below the deck height.

     

    And one last thing the pin height of the pre 79 is 40.1mm and the post 79's are 38.1mm like most L series engines.

  6. I know with the setup I got from Japan (yet to be installed, and I believe the same source that Brain gets the units as shown by Zbuff) was supplied with a speed sensor that connects to the standard mechanical output from the gearbox. This sensor then passes the mechanical drive to the speedo cable.

     

    So gearbox drive ---- new speed senor ---- speedo cable

     

    For me I will not be running the speedo cable as I have a new electronic speedo.

  7. I am restoring a 240z and putting a RB25DET in it and was wondering about the diff. I know people have put Subaru r160 LSDs in it but how much horsepower can they hold and what do you do for the axles?

     

    Thanks,

    R160 too small big time - R200 is what you need after all this is what Nissan used behind the RB25DET anyway just the later shortnose type. Search on here and you will find a number of solutions + you would be best to convert to CVs and also install the later stub axles, if not you will be replacing these later when the RB25DET breaks them after some hard launches
  8. Well, now if you want increased deck height there is a device that looks like that, used in conjunction with cylinder liners...
    Or run with the taller LD28 block but that requires a lot of work too to get a good bore again - so then you are running into the same issues with thin walls and blow by again unless some sleeves/cylinder liners are employed - either way cylinder liners required for a taller block setup.

     

    It is my understanding that large bores on the L6 blocks is best left to those of us that love NA and the turbo boys should limit the bore to 88mm and not go any larger due to the issues 1 Fast Z has found with his turbo 89mm DOHC 3.1 build.

  9. Dave, I think over the years many have used the utility so a thanks to you and the team as ozdat for hosting it. I will have to track down the Japanese website I found that explains the pre 79/post 79 rod differences but given here in NZ we have a number of L20a and L20et (and I have owned or in the family we have owned) a few of each I can confirm there are 133mm rods and 135mm rods I have never seen 128mm rods on any L6 :(

     

    I did at one point also see a guy in Japan use the 135mm rods offset bush the little end from the 19mm to more common 21mm and in the that process change the centre to centre length to be 137mm (aka L14 C to C length, well the L14 are 136.7mm if I recall correctly). Not sure what they did on the bottom end - but maybe they also used a LD28 and again offset ground the crank to make a smaller journal for the rod and change the stroke to 85mm or the like.

     

    So I guess with enough effort the L20et rods might be of use but I have always passed on them when looking for L20a rods.

  10. You want to fix the L20a settings they have been wrong for years :(

     

    Pre 79 L20a have 133mm rods and post 79 L20a and the L20et have 135mm on a smaller journal with the smaller 19mm little end. ie same as the US L24e Maxima engine on the little and big ends but 135mm is the length for these post 79 engines.

     

    Also the pre 79's also have 9mm rod bolts - well this is the case on the 4 sets I have seen/sold over the years (basically the pre 1979 uses L24 rods if you like ie same length, big and little ends etc)

     

    The block height of the L20a is the same as the other L6 ie L24/26/28. Also the Pre 79's have 40.1mm compression height and the post 79 have the more normal L6 38.1mm compression height. 78mm bore and 69.7mm stroke to make 1998cc.

     

    Hope this helps.

  11. ZNeder.. did you "spot" weld all those welds to give it a stacked, TIG weld appearance?!

     

    BTW - cool Suzuki GSXR throttle body manifold ya have on the workbench. Any pics?!

    I had a fabrication/engineering shop do mine. I believe it is a mig weld on CDW 38.1mm x 2.6mm tube as this is the local requirement min.

     

    Re the Suzuki manifold - it is in fact a RB26 intake manifold :)

  12. Is your car a 240z/260z or 280z? ie 51mm struts of 55mm struts? I know my old 240z with the 51mm struts could take a rim with 4.7" of backspace with the correct rubber installed. However the same setup would not work on the front of a 260z (our local 260z is much like the 280z ie has the 55mm struts and front spring perch is lower than the 240z setup)

     

    Hope this info is of use - here is pic of my zed with the rims with the 4.7" backspace - they are 16x9 with a 225/45/16.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=3777&d=1191135931

  13. This is what the 240z/260z/280z (aka S30) inner tie rod (aka rack end) looks like (see attached pic)

     

    I have found a supplier - I have ordered some so lets hope the correct part arrives. If they are correct I will post were I got these from :)

     

    With regards to the comment above about

    datsun z's up to 83 zx's is the same for the passengers side
    (assume piston is talking about the outer tie rod) this is not quite true. Yes they look the same and have the same RH Thread so join up to the (US Passenger, my drivers side) RHS inner tie rod. However the S130 units are 10mm longer than the S30. Also to note that this only applies to the rack versions of the ZX/S130 as the early PS units were recirculating ball/steering box setup and used different tie rods altogether.

    260z-Rack-End_thumb.jpg

  14. I e-mailed them to see if I can just purchase those from them.no response yet
    Dave will reply - I purchased a set of just the threaded parts for my setup as I sold my 240z and kept the coilovers then I wanted to install these on my 260z (your 280z shell/suspension setup we never got the S30 with L28 here) so I needed some new weld on's so I could put these in the correct location for the taller rear struts.
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