NZeder
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Posts posted by NZeder
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NissanParts.cc still prices up the part so that usually means it is still available from Nissan - usually.
I was the one who found the 38335-N3220 partnumber after spending a few hours looking over the Nissan parts catalogues I have. That partnumber is used on the YS31 Nissan Cedric/Gloria from Aug-92 up to Aug-99. I am surprised all the stock has been used up already - given the old S30 partnumber was available for almost 30 years I would have thought the SY31 partnumber should have some stock left after just 10 years.
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it depends on the model of R31 but yes there are some R31's with the 4 bolt CV shafts as shown aboveAre you sure the shafts are the same? I had HR31 turbo shafts in my car and they mounted to the companion flanges with 3 sets of 2 bolts and from memory have 3 ball bearings in the CVs? The Z31 turbo shafts I'm using now are the same as your pictures with 4 individual bolts and 5 bearing CVs.
I know that the DR30 has the same shafts as the Z31FYI the same Z31 shafts are also on some JDM models of the following cars
Y31 = Nissan Cedric (VG20DT, VG30D)
F31 = Nissan Leopard (VG30D-ULTIMA)
Now I did find another cross reference partnumber and it is used in the following models (again the 4 bolt version) on the RH side
C32 = Nissan Laurel (RB20DET with R200 4.11 fitted)
R31 = Nissan Skyline (RB20DT)
F31 = Nissan Leopard (VG20T.XS)
S12 = Nissan Silvia (CA18DET)
Z31 = Nissan 300ZX/Fairlady ZR1, ZR2, 300ZR
and the same partnumber used on a LH side of these models
Y31 = Nissan Cedric (VG30E.Y, VG30E.MT, S.VG30T, VG30T.BROV)
I am sure with more time alternative part numbers could be found with some research etc.
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Didn't those used to be made in both FG and steel?
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I have pair from the first batch a year or so back. I am happy with the product (purchased mine from ebay back then and shipped to me here in NZ in no time at all)
Pleased to see others can now get these again. Well done to grndfx for getting these back into production.
Now only if the same could be said about other parts for our cars (thinking mainly so of the harder to get rubber parts ie rear hatch hinge boots etc)
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no idea about 17x9 but my old 240z had 16x9 on stock fenders with just rolled rear lips I was running a 225/45/16. I did post a pic in the Wheel Show?: Thread almost 2 years ago now. And FYI my 240z did not have coilovers or 8" springs just the stock 240z rear setup just with lower aftermarket springs and koni red inserts.
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265 - who makes those - would be good to know if I can get these here in NZHancook Ventus 245/45/r16. They do not get the job done.I see they now have a few 265's out there. I will prolly move to a 265 rear with my next set of tires and maybe most to a 245/50 in the front.
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If your going to the trouble of doing this - why not make it 3 VFR800 engine = 2.4l V12
now that would be something different in a zed as most install a V12 that is somewhat larger than that and from another car - 3 x VFR800's engines would still be small and light weight too. However I have not idea if this is even possible. But as I have owned 2 x VFR800 and 3 x VFR400 I know why you would want to use two of these engines I just love those honda V4's. -
I assume no one has replied as this topic has been covered before and you will find the answers if you use the search (with the correct search pattern/keywords entered)
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Ok here are some pics of mine. The fronts are 225/50/16 on a RS Watanabes 16x8.5 -6 and the rears are 245/45/16 on 16x9.5 -19
First some pics of the rubber fitted - Toyo RA1 (click on images to see larger pics)
Now some pics of the rim fitted to Dad's old S31 Fairlady Z with stock suspension and body work - showing the stretch on the fronts
And now the test fit on my zed with the custom steel flares - no spring just blocks of wood to check what a fully compressed height would be like to ensure inner guards were made with enough clearance.
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A local firm here in NZ is making these V8's I should find out a price would go well in a zed don't you think?
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and for some more clearance you could machine off the willwood of the front of the caliper - I have seen this done before - not sure how much more you can take off but that will give you 1mm more.
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Well given it is Knuckdusters car his answer is posted above when I asked6inline, what ex manifold is that? but here it is again.I spent about 6 months searching around ebay.au and ebay.uk looking for a header. Finally found one on ebay.au for around 375 shipped iirc which was brand new made for an r33. I bought it not knowing if it would even fit in the engine bay and of course it didnt. It hit the fire wall so I cut it down to get it re-welded so that was ok. Then the nut on the steering arm would hit when turning the wheels so I had to grind that half way down. Despite all that bs it was definatly worth it. I havn't been on the dyno since the motor was first put in but seat of the pants feel tells me there was a pretty big improvement, id guess 20 or so whp/tq.. -
He has pulled the engine since then - he did a few track days with it (on youtube too) he has gone back to L6 powered and I believe due to local classic racing rules. However he did enjoy the car when it was RB25DE powered.here is the video.
I dont know but i love it,
Actualy i dont want to run on race gaz, sur i'll go lapping but my goal is not to have 300hp, i like the idea to have injection and twincam, and stay N/A with a nissan engin. So i realy like this set up. I'll go chek on R31 skyline forums.
There are a few RB30DE powered cars here in NZ, 2 are owned by the same guy one is race car and that puts down 300rwhp (ish) it runs 50mm ITB his other car is a street version no idea on the power. I have a RB25/26 hybrid in DE with ITB however it is still some time away from getting on the road as the body is currently getting painted then I will install the wiring etc then engine.
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It might be the rotors not the kits per say - I know when I purchased some Wilwood rotors (now on a mates race car) there were run out issues so it might be just the wilwood rotors. I guess that is why AP rotors and the like cost more as maybe they have better tolerances.Interesting.... Your not the only person I've talked to who has had large runouts on those AZC kits.I found issue with getting calipers/rotor setups to clear the RS Watanabes rims also. I have now got Hi-Spec brake calipers from the UK as these are well made and have a lower profile than any other caliper I looked into. I am using the ultralite 2 pots on the rear with a custom internal drum park brake setup (would not do it again - I would now recommend just purchasing the Hi-Spec SVA calipers with separate park brake build in). I only just received my fronts this week I went for the billet 4 as these are close in spec to the FIA pot calipers ie pad/piston sizing and over all sizing of the caliper.
Also the setup I have gone for is not large but larger than the normal Toy/Z31 front setup and 240sx/Z31 rear setup and smaller than the JKS/AZC 12.2 setups. I have gone this way so I could go back to 15" rim if I wanted to + I did not want to over brake the zed and put extra unsprung weight into the car. The Hi-Spec calipers are nice and light and smaller rotors also cuts down the weight. So if I have brake issues I will just add better cooling for more performance from the setup I will be running.
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yes I did. However the car is still in the panel shop so feedback will have to wait. I used these and one of their gearbox mounts for my RB conversion due to the interlock design.BUMP. Did you ever use these urethane engine mounts? Feedback? -
Yes if they had an interlock setup that would be good. I have/am using interlock mounts now on my engine and gearbox so only the diff left to go
See this thread about how the engine mounts I am using are designed inside
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Yes I know I have 3 sets of stainless steel units but they needed modifying for the S30 body (well I have 2 and won the auction for another set the other day - just waiting to hear from the seller re the collection/payment details) so looking to see if these are a different version to those that I have which are for Skylines with RB20 or RB25's in DEYou can get NA RB headers from japan.
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Heres mine.. non turbo
Looks good - what headers are they? Custom made? or modified from a different model etc?
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Yes I believe they fit but they don't have the circlip grooves in the side gears = you need to disassemble and machine them in + they have block in the centre that is too thick and will stop the axles from going in so this needs to be machined down also.
I have not done this but this is what I believe is the case as a mate as one of the centres in his R200 long nose the mods were done by a local diff shop.
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That does also depend on which side the passenger sitesThat in itself is pretty awesome! I think having the exhaust on the passenger side might free up some space from the booster and the steering column and allow a lot more tube to fit in there! us with the RHD would like the RB26 Style. However the engine would need to be leaned over for the RB26 style which would mean getting a Z20/Z42 bellhousing for the L6 box or would a RB bellhousing mount up ok - might have to keep an eye on this project the thing I like about this is L6 bottom end and chain drive.I have gone RB conversion for the DOHC look (as I know the L6 in NA form will produce more than enough flow and power for my purposes) so this is one of the ways I can afford a Z432 theme/concept but using a modern Nissan motor. To have a chain driven L6 with a DOHC I like the idea and I hope this project continues to shed some new light and interesting results.
Hybridz is the name of the site and Hybridizing the name of game and it is game on with this concept.
Those ports look large so - would the head be too large for NA setups? I think a L28 bottom end would need to increase in cc to match a head with ports like that (no idea really not a mechanic/cylinder head guy)
I found a website the other night with pics of these engines (lost the link will have to check again) but they showed the cranks for these engine - very nice fully counter weighted - anybody know the specs on these and if one could be made to fit a L6 bottom end
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Well that is market dependant as they were factory on 260z and early 280zx here in NZ and I think the same is true for AU/OZ. Dealers here were not doing options as you state, yes there were options when ordering ie auto or manual (and in this part of the world all 240z/260z were 5 spd from the start no 4 spd for us at all), colour that was about it, all other items were factory fitted - lucky us no dealer add-on to jack up the price.they weren't factory, but they were a dealer option -
put the insides from a more modern tach that is designed the more common negative coil hock up (this is what most ECU replicate) not the inductive loop from the positive side of the coil like the stock 240z/260z points tach. I believe a number have used the internals from a 280ZX with great success.
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All sounds right to me - AREA is only used for cooling in the braking surface after the work. After all a brakes job is thermal transfer of the work. Well this is my simple understanding of it all.
In a car = engine turns thermal energy ie the burning of fuel into motion via the power stroke in the ICE. The brakes take the motion and turns that into heat via the u (coeff. of friction between the materials and the force applied) the area comes into play in allowing these to cool down quicker ready for the next application of the brake and thus allowing better motion to heat transfer of energy.
As some might know after x laps on standard brakes they stop working as they are not cooling quick enough = less motion to heat (as the heat is already there) and the u can no long provide the correct balance of F and N which equals
F.......Far out that was one close almost a
N.......Nasty crash better get something the help with
U.......underpants replacement......= get better brakes so we can put the FuN back in the equation.
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Those look like UK based Compomotive ML rims and my guess would be 15x7 with a 205/60/15Pretty sick man. What size wheels are those?
I know that the DR30 has the same shafts as the Z31
us with the RHD would like the RB26 Style. However the engine would need to be leaned over for the RB26 style which would mean getting a Z20/Z42 bellhousing for the L6 box or would a RB bellhousing mount up ok - might have to keep an eye on this project the thing I like about this is L6 bottom end and chain drive.
HR31/Z31 Rear CV Halfshafts
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Cool if all DR30 come with 6 bolts I am only going by the Nissan FAST catalogues and the partnumbers that match the 4 bolt units found on other Nissans ie Z31.
FYI going by the FAST the DR30's with the FJ20 (ie pre 83 and non turbo) had the 6 bolt type and the later FJ20T powered cars have the 4 bolt type.
See attached screen shots for reference - again I am only going by the info I have at hand and trying to give you more cars to look at that might have the same axles you are looking for - again from info in the FAST (assuming you have those models in Oz
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