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About 82boxima

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 02/19/1987
  1. so the other day, my fuel gauge decided to quit working at 222,245 miles.... i assumed I had enough fuel to make a 3 mile drive to my house.... and it didn't make it. I was going about 55 mph in 5th gear and it just died. no gauge movement, no low fuel light, nothing, no warning lights at all. I ran it out of fuel, and now the pump is bad. every OTHER time I turn the key i can here the pump doing SOMETHING, but no fuel at all is being pumped. I checked all the fuses, lines, fresh fuel filter, coil, battery, starter, alternator, plugs, air etc... everything is good but fuel delivery..... I pulled the main fuel line from the bottom of the filter in the engine bay and turned it down into a large styrofoam cup, turned the key, and nothing comes out. I don't have $200 plus dollars to spend on a new one either. what other nissan vehicle came with the same fuel pump? vg30e maximas? vg30e 200sx? hardbody? pathy? I need to know these things that way i can pull one out of the junkyard or something! anyone have a good one they'll send me for cheap? any suggestions here?
  2. so yesterday, my water pump decided to spout a ginormus leak. I got a new water pump, gasket, thermostat, belt, hoses etc etc, and I've started tearing down the front accessories on the motor..... as for this issue I'm having.... I've searched 4 times here and other places and found nothing specifically about this. I've come to this problem: I need to know if its possible to remove the lower timing cover WITHOUT removing the crankshaft pulley and or the timing belt itself. I don't have the tool needed to remove and would perfer not going and buying or renting one.... I've got all the bolts off the cover itself and can't seem to shake it free from the pulley. I don't wanna damage the belt or tensioner by doing this... the timing belt is in great shape and I'd perfer to not remove it / replace it at all possible ($$$), as is the tensioner, and front main seal. another question I have is... IF I DO have to remove this stupid pulley.... HOW would I go about it?
  3. I was just out driving around the neighborhood a while back (date on the pics) and check out what I noticed sitting in someone's driveway! I stopped and asked this lady that was standing outside... she said it was her ex-boyfriends, he went to prison in 2001, got killed in prison... and she has no idea where the title is... I highly doubt I'll have much trouble getting one. she said she does want it gone off her property, I said " what would it take to get it outta your yard and into my possesion? " she said " go get your truck " hehehehehehehehe goes to show you never know til' you ask!! she explained to me that she likes the fact I am gonna do something with it, and that she liked my maxima lol. I know the thing is in rough shape, but, I don't want it to sit there and rot...AND FOR FREE? OMG HELL YEAH the lady said it was parked cause the radiator was leaking and the clutch was out, crazy how people just " throw away " things with so much character.... yup, bankston datsun ^^^ hahaha lol (OMG HOLY ♥♥♥♥) turns out, it's a nissan / datsun 200sx. from what I've gathered, it should have an Z22E 4cyl. under the hood, 5mt, AND RWD (mini-me L24E, like my max, sort of lol) the body on this thing is UBER straight, it has a little surface rust, but I looked under it and it's all there, complete, stock, no major rust, and the odometer is sitting @ 67k!!!! oh and it has a 02/82 build date, which just happens to be the same exact build date of my maxima, go figure! *update* I was getting it ready to TRY to start it, dropped the tank, cleaned it, new lines, pump, new blaster coils, new battery, new clutch etc etc, and the LAST thing I did before trying to start it, I was gonna get some fresh oil in it, so I drained it out, looked into my drain pan, and saw metal shavings in it:shock:, so I went a ahead and dropped the pan, and upon close inspection of the crank, it has a spun rod bearing. the crank, the cylinder walls, and rod and end are all scarred up, I don't think it'd be worth machining down to tolerance, so I'm on the hunt for just a KA to just throw in it and be done with it. the main purpose of this car will be a slammed cruiser, don't plan on racing it or drifting or any other silly-ness, just like my maxima lol
  4. haha, I was just asked if my car was mercedes today, and it made me think of this thread.... how appropriate would it would it be to have one of these in a 1st gen max? :burnout:ROFL very unique swap, I love it!!
  5. it sure looks like it would make for a good T - blow-through setup
  6. wow, in my mind, this is exactly the point of HBZ, enjoying your results. sounds like fun, more fun than my 17.1 run this year:shock: lol congratz:mrgreen:
  7. TTTTT :)hoping for resultz bumpz:) TTTTT
  8. nothing says performance on a ZX 2+2 quite like diamond-plate side-steps
  9. 16.9? that's YOUR best? jeez, my 3200 lb pig with a the wimpy L24E in it ran a 17.1 ROFL:burnout::burnout::burnout:woulda been a close one!!!!
  10. hook it up for mine please: JN1HUO1S1CT039094
  11. cool cool GL with it. here are the MAIN points to remember to do my spring swap: 1. use these for the REAR of your car: ~77'? through ~85'? (mine came from a 81', so SOMEWHERE in there will work) FRONT springs from a mercedes 300D. these are CONSIDERABLY LONGER, so cut off about 3.5 to 4 coils for about a 3 inch drop in the rear, cut less if a slightly higher ride height is desired. 2. Use these for FRONT of your car: z31 NON-turbo FRONT springs, again, the newer / lower mileage the better. cut off about 2 to 2.5 coils for a 3 inch drop in the front, again, cut less off for a slightly higher ride height. 3. I'd suggest using the methods mentioned in this thread already. cut em off .5 coils at a time, see what the they look / ride like, and continue the process until you get your desired ride height and still at a safe height (not rubbing, not bottoming out super easy). I say this because my maxima and your ZX have SOME SMALL differences, and it may NOT be EXACTLY the same. the nice thing about using springs from other cars is, if you f*ck it up, you can just put the uncut stockies back in it LOL that was my logic in doing it this way LOL. 4. once you do get it to the ideal height, start playing with tire / wheel sizes a little, you'll be surprised how much that alone will make a difference hehehehehehe 5. and last but not least, POST PICS once you've done the spring swap!!!! EDIT: something I forgot to mention.... after the spring swap, about 200-500 miles later, the suspension will " settle in " a little bit and cause about ANOTHER 1/4 to 1/2 inch drop. PLEASE ACCOUNT FOR THIS IN YOU CALCULATIONS!!!
  12. I got a suggestion for you if your looking for a good cheap drop. I just got this set up on 82 maxima (very simialar to s130's). I just performed the springs swap over last weekend, and so far, no major issues / problems! (none suspension related, DAMN WATER PUMP) I used z31 front springs for the front, cut down just a little more than 1.5 coils, probly more like 1.75 coils cut off, they fit in the spring perches real nice too, all nissan related so..... and for the rear, I used 81' mercedes 300d FRONT springs. the merc springs are a good choice because the coils them selves are ALOT thicker, the diameter coil to coil is perfect for the perches / tophats.... it does need about 3.5 coils cut off though, alot longer than the stock rear springs. as you can probly tell, these parts were just found in my local junk yard on the cheap. I've got about 30 dollars in it ROFL. this set up makes for decent ride quality, still smooth on the freeway, on rough streets, it's a LITTLE bouncy, but nothing I can't live with. here's a before and after pic of my maxima: BEFORE (stuck on off-road-mode): AFTER: EDIT: NO, IT DOESN'T RUB
  13. ah, this is making alot sense right now. no, I don't think it is running an air injection pump, does that also mean, a smog pump? the only things it has on the belt assembly is the C/S pulley, powersteering, A/C compressor, alternator, and water pump (and associated tensioner pulleys). what you said about the pulleys have to be lined so within an 1/8th in. tolerance, that is probly the problem, I didn't check for that when installing my new alternator last month, NOOB error for sure, I just made sure the belt was snugged up to the propper tension. I'm about go outside and go through the whole belt assembly and double check the alignment of all the pulleys. and besides, I got $50 worth of belts to put back on:shock: thanks a bunch!
  14. I went and got ALL THREE belts to put back on, I had previously removed the A/C belt awhile ago, and I think that caused the crankshaft pully / balancer to become off balance, making it throw the belts lastnite... does this make sense? seems like if I just put all three back on, it would be better balanced and not throw these belts... and the water pump is fine, with the belt off, it turned by hand nice and smooth, no play in it, doesn't appear to be leaking.... and the belt did puncture the lower radiator hose, so that's what was making it hot..... is there anything else I need to check when putting these belts / hoses back on? I was thinking about maybe taking the C/S pulley off and checking all the individual grooves to take sure they are all lined up correctly... other than that, all I gotta do is top off with coolant, hook up the new belts, and see what it does....... thoughts?
  15. If I posted this in the wrong section, feel free to move it around however appropriate...... ok, so I'm going down the highway, in my 82' maxima (L24E+ auto trans) cruise control set at 75 mph, heater on, radio blaring, all the guages looking good, within normal etc etc I start to hear something like bearing whine for about TWO SECONDS, and then, BOOOM happened. volt gauge PEGGED all the way DOWN, warning lights flashing on and off all over the dash, temp gauge going up, loss of power. so i pull off the next exit in neutral, trying to coast my 75 MPH roll into this truck stop. it actually would CRAWL under it's own power into a parking spot. cut the motor off, pop the hood, my alternator / water pump belt (well pieces of it) are laying limp on top of the valve-cover and coolant is spurting out of the resevoir and dripping on the ground from an unknown source keep in mind, this JUST happened tonight at like 1 AM, I didn't get a chance to look at it really good, it was dark, I just jump-started it and drove it up onto my friend's trailer to get it home. so I 'm pretty sure I didn't damage any engine internals, sounded ok getting it up on to the trailer (what a live saver for coming to help me at 1 AM ON A WEDNESDAY NIGHT / THURSDAY MORNING ! I'm a cheap MOFO and don't have roadside assistance on my insurance, this will be changed soon though, trust me) my first thought are: A: I just replaced the alternator and belt >700 miles ago, maybe I installed it incorrectly / wrong amount of tension and it threw the belt, rupturing the lower radiator hose? I'm pretty sure I did that right though... B: the seals on the water pump were shot, water [coolant] got to the bearings and eventually made it seize, causing it to throw the belt? C: I have the wrong thermostat in it, causing it to stay closed when it should of been open, the temperatures here have dropped pretty good since the time I put a new one in it, and it was running at a normal temp according to the gauge when this disaster happened, so could there be enough built up pressure to find a release @ the water pump? D: combination of the above? E: what could have caused this? F: what's the compatibility with other L-series motor's water pumps? BONUS POINTS: if anyone has a good water pump they wanna send my way on the cheap / free, I'd apreciate it
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