dr_hunt
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Posts posted by dr_hunt
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I wouldn't move but the time and effort arguing with a government entity and a towing company will far outweight the money spent to get the car back IMO. Kind of like arguing with someone who has a huge ego and can't be wrong. Better to just beat your head against the wall repeatedly.
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Right on Mark!
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Wow, those are super, super nice!!! Really like them!
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Made alittle progress. Putting up the c-purlin for the roof, have them all made already, put up more this evening when it cools off. Going to play golf at 2PM.
This is what powerglide parts look like. Roller tail shaft housing, pro tree transbrake, vasco turbo spline input shaft, 10 clutch high drum, steel hub, kevlar band, master race overhaul kit. I had the aluminum deep pan already, so now I need to machine a reverse piston and put it all together. I'll take pic's later in the week when the boy and I get started on that. So, this trans will be built to handle 1200HP and is easily done yourself for those of you who choose to run PG's.
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Seriously, if you have the FSM, any good builder could rebuild it. The only time "RB specific" comes into the picture is when doing heavy mods. Even then, you could study up on it and tell them what you want.
I think the point is that a machine shop can tell you it's done right but you'll never know unless you check it yourself and if you don't have the tools or knowhow, your up the perverbial creek without a paddle and all your $$$ is going down the drain cause you'll do it all over again.
I can't tell you how many times the machine shop has screwed up, just ask grumpy, I'm sure he'll chime in. All I can say is you have to check it yourself so YOU KNOW IT'S RIGHT! It pains me to see how many members on here get shafted and how much $$$ and aggravation go with it.
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MY friend you are in for a big surprise. If you have never built an rb motor (that's kinda what it sounds like) you are in for a big surprise. If you find a PRO, that can build a quility built rb motor you are going to pay out the ass.
Well, uh, that's pretty straight up now don't you think!
Nothing like the naked truth stony. -
My apologies, I guess I assumed that any 'competent' builder checked those things........at least I do.......I plastiguage everything.......
My last buildup was a high compression LS1 and we even had to fly-cut the pistons, thats how tight the tolerances are
Everything, wow, must share the techniques for using plastiguage for everything. I've used it when there was nothing else. But mostly I use bore gauges, inside mic's, snap gauges, outside mic's, depth mics and the like. They are truly indespensible items that take some time to accumulate due to cost IMO. You can pick them up at flea markets and some auctions, just make sure the standards are included.
Sounds like big domes in that bad boy and alot of fun!
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Any competent engine builder should be able to pull off the task..... a stroker kit is really no more difficult that a regular engine rebuild.......
Contrare my friend, it is so much more critical than you imagine. Everything is different, and has to be checked to ensure correct fitment. When doing strokers, pistons, crank and rods are usually all custom. Just because it says custom doesn't mean it's right and will work. Piston to valve clearances, crank to block, etc, etc. It can be alot of work depending on the motor and the amount of stroke increase.
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Where did you get the car or motor from?
Chances are that it needs everything to be correct. Might as well start off with another engine IMO.
It is so sad to see members spending hard earned $$$ for results like that. Here in town a friend with limited knowledge paid $3500 for a 383 crate motor. It lasted 2 weeks before the oil pickup tube fell out of the pump and spun a rod. Took it apart, it had circle track claimer pistons, stock 400 rods, 30/30 stock 400 crank and some L98 aluminum heads. Surely not $3500 worth of parts.
I built a 383 for my paint and body guy and it boils the hides off that '81 camaro with a th350 auto and some 4.11's. I had about $2500 in it, but used his dart sr torquer heads.
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I would use small ports, like vortec heads. Chevyhiperformance.com built a 406 with vortec heads and made like 530 ftlbs and 470hp with a moderately sized hydo flat tappet cam. The cam was around 230 degrees at 0.050" but the small ports made huge torque and fairly good hp. ran on 87 octane too. I think it had 400ftlb of torque at 2000 rpm. do a search on that site.
That was with the AFR 180 heads, it made about 62 less hp with the vortech heads so around 408hp. The brodix heads would make more power in a similar curve to the AFR's so the tq and hp would probably move up in the powerband somewhat. The ideal combination would be to run alittle more compression, alittle tighter LSA and get the peak torque in the right spot early on in the rpm range IMO rather than the 110LSA used in that test.
There was another thread on this same subject earlier but the author was wanting to go 383.
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Good to hear a Z made it in the top ranks.
I'm not familiar with VIR, any other times and cars to compare with?
Considering it's a NA L6 powered car those times are amazingly fast. If it had comparable equipment to any of the other cars mentioned, he would probably beat the pants off of them hands down, he must be a very good driver.
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WOW!
Congrats!!!!
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Does anyone know of any stock rear end that will fit width wise under a 76 280Z.
Not that I'm aware of. Even the early bronco 9 inch is really too wide. For a solid axle you'll be looking at 40" to 45" wheel flange to wheel flange depending on tubs and wheel width you'd like to run.
Like Braap said, stock is pretty good for the HP level your planning to run, which is a basically pretty mild build engine wise but should be a screamer on the street.
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Your all wrong, Yup, all of you! The problem it that it's not yours!
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Well, from experience I can tell you that if you leave it in fuel bowls for say over the winter, it'll eat the crap out of them. Fuel fittings are hard anodized already and I've never had a problem. I don't leave alcohol in my fuel system longer than a day unless it's a 2 day or 3 day event. Just my opinion.
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Just having a rad that works and mounts properly would be a big plus. End of the year, hmmmmm.
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I'm headed to Red River NM for camping in the 5th wheel. Taking the Polaris 4 wheeler and fishing gear for a few days of slacking professional style!
Whatever you guys do have fun and be safe!
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Yeah, I kind of did the same thing. Looked at the carb to ID it rather than really look at it in detail. The choke horn was removed with a hack saw. I've never seen a 4160 with 4 corner idle so Jasper is probably right on the metering plate. IIRC you can't switch that out on these carbs as they are size specific to cfm. If you give some specifics on motor size, mods, vehicle, weight, intended usage etc., you'll get some advice.
IMO I'd go with another type of carb the model 4150 vacuum secondary. I've never been a fan of the side hung float model 4160.
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That is correct, the secondary metering plate is necessary. It's bogging is my guess, way lean probably because its not getting fuel in the secondaries. I have the whole carb. It needs a kit but it's all there, $50 plus shipping. I have a non-center feed vacuum secondary as well, also needs a kit, $75.
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I have one similar to that in the shop model 4160, vacuum secondary carb, probably a 600 cfm although they made those up to 770 cfm for performance cars. The little screws on the side of the metering plate are for idle mixture, there is no other mixture screw on it. Yours looks like the choke horn was milled off, so the list number is gone.
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There has been alittle bit posted by grumpyvette regarding these folks previously. I didn't catch that until after it was too late. So, here is the situation I have for you all to read.
I purchased the TP-09 lift from American Automotive Equipment on March 31, 2008. These guys (http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com) So, I got it on April 10, 2008, inventoried it, put it up later, and hooked it up. I was missing two of the feet that you use to go on the end of the arms that touch the frame and some brackets for the over height limit switch. So that switch was not installed. I contacted them via phone and email on April 10 2008 about the missing items and was told that they would ship them out. When I put it up as per the instructions ran it up and down twice and left it alone.
11 days later, received nothing, so I called them again on May 21, 2008.
Went to use it to change oil in the jetta , put the car on it, hit the button and when it got high enough,(I'm pretty tall 6'1") I let go of the button. But the lift wouldn't stop going up, the button was stuck on!
Ruh roh, no limit switch, so I hit the breaker but not till after the lift had gone all the way up and quit. Good thing the car is low otherwise it would have smashed the top of the car. Motor was smoking. So, now the car is all the way up. Hmmm, so I changed the oil, pulled the safety stop lanyards and lowered the car. Tried the lift again and nothing, the motor was fried.and then sent an email describing the above situation on May 2, 2008 and left another voice message. Nothing, no call back.
Then on May 5, 2008 I get an email saying "Sorry your having problems, I'll have a technician call you." Well nothing, no call, no email, nothing.
So, since I hadn't heard anything I called them again and sent another email on May 6, 2008. No response, so I decided to just fix it myself and took it to telco electric on May 6, 2008. So I had the motor rewound, and the switch replaced. $346.00 later and another trip to Alb to pick it up. So about $500 by the time you figure fuel in it I have it back. I also had a buddy who is a machinist make me two feet that were missing, he machined them out of billet steel for $200 just so I could use it. I didn't want to chance making something that would fail on me.
So, I disputed the charge on my credit card with my card outfit on May 6, 2008. Provided them with copies of the emails and I got temporarily credited the $$$ back.
So, today, yes today, the lift folks call me, but not suzie, some other gal. She says "What can we do to fix it?" I said: "Pay me back the $700 extra that I got in it and send me the brackets for the overtravel switch and we will call it good." She says; "Nope, we don't do that sir, we will send you a new power unit and we will send you the missing items but I don' know what brackets they are since they are not listed in my parts list." I said; "You don't know what brackets it takes to mount this? Suzie told me that they would ship them, so either you have them or you don't, right?" She says; "We don't have them." I said; "Nope, if your going to take that stance I'll keep the power unit I paid to rewind, my two machined feet and you come get the lift and refund my whole $1640.00! No sir, we can't do that, all we can do is replace the power unit and provide the missing items. Ok, well since it took you from April 10 from my first email to May 20 to get back to me, you dont have the overtravel brackets, and your not willing to take the lift back and refund my $$$, then you can just have a very nice day, goodbye!
So, the short of it is that I contacted them numerous times, they refused to let me return it and refused to send me the missing items, so they can eat it.
So, the long of it is that it works, not completely properly, but it works. I'll have to figure out how to mount the overtravel switch somehow. But at least I don't have to pay the $1640!
So, if your in the market for a lift buy one someplace else, these guys are less than what you'd expect from a smoking pile of cow dung!
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Thanks guys. I just took my time and made sure it came out the way "I" wanted it to.
Doc - you missed this part...
I have some engraving material here, normally used to make engraved name badges and thought it might come in handy for something. Well, it did.
Then again, I failed to mention that it's plastic, black on one side and silver on the other, and yet for some reason, I'm the one who doesn't get the part about the "walmart greeter"...
Here at one of the family businesses we do metal engraving, so I assumed the same.
Your many talents now are known, so you can quit your second job!
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One with the downpipe started..
Looks like an out pipe not a down pipe!
Guess he'll be wanting to run in the left lane at the strip and he's going to love passing people!!!
Nothing like the naked truth stony. 
:lmao: 
Ruh roh, no limit switch, so I hit the breaker but not till after the lift had gone all the way up and quit. Good thing the car is low otherwise it would have smashed the top of the car. Motor was smoking. So, now the car is all the way up. Hmmm, so I changed the oil, pulled the safety stop lanyards and lowered the car. Tried the lift again and nothing, the motor was fried.
This Car Hobby Sucks Big Brassy Balloons...here is why
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Yup, it isn't really a money making deal when you start with something that rough and end up with something that nice in the end. As for the "other" cars don't mention them.
The satisfaction of building one, driving one and just owning one is not somethng you measure with $$$. IMO of course.