dr_hunt
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Posts posted by dr_hunt
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That is a pretty basic question actually. You didn't mention what engine you have. If your HP is pretty close to stock then the stock mechanical fuel pump would suffice. Going electric would be an option but you need one specific for carb applications otherwise you will be looking at adding a fuel pressure regulator as well. Electric pumps don't suck very well so they need to be mounted low and next to the tank.
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the 700r4 are virtually indestructable imo. you can shift manually if wanted but also put it in drive and haul balls. also you can get those trannies to withstand over 650 hp with no problems. they are really good for draging and for daily driving if needed. they have four gears which is easier on the engine and better on gas. and they can lay down some tourqe to the rear.
Not in my experience without spending alot of money.
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Younger by the minute but older by the second!
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A good way is to change them with the rod on the crank. Most people use a rod vise.
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BTW i did mention I'm moving to Utah didn't I?
Uh, no, but now that you mention it I guess you have. Congrats!
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I felt something funny the run before. it kind of tweaked alittle but came back down straight. the last run had allot more powerful launch and it hit the wheelie bars harder. I'm pretty sure it was the right wheelie bar because it was slightly lower then the other causing it to bottom out first. live and learn like they say. i had the wheelie bars on for safety and they were more then likely the Casie. Oh well.
Well atleast it happened to the black car and not the red one
That is why I won't build another ladder bar car. The IC is fixed and with the 4 link you can adjust it so that doesn't happen. 9.90's here is like 8.80's there and the wheelies here are just too much IMO for me to drive consistently I can't imagine what they would be like at sea level. Neat to watch though!
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I have heard many people say that drag racing is boring and requires no skill. I know different and I am sure that that was a handfull to drive just then. The faster the car the harder it is to drive. Good job stony keeping the greasy side down. Looks like it could have been alot worse.
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Crane used to make a really neat solid roller that went by the TR series. 250/260 .600/.615 110LSA that really worked well in 302 327 engines. I don't see that anymore. Those heads will work pretty well on that engine as well but lack any real airflow for larger displacement IMO. The 302 will rpm about 800 to 1000 rpm higher than stated rpm ranges as they are typically based on 350 cubic inches, at least that is my experience.
A grind in the 250 to 260 range and lift around .600 will be pretty stable IMO. The LSA will determine your powerband and I typically prefer a 106 to 108 however you may like something different.
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The whole pressurized system should read the same no matter which side of the cooler it is on. Are you trying to diagnose an issue?
The pressure will drop on the downside of a cooler. There is always pressure drop in a dynamic fluid flow system across a cooler or any piping at all for that matter.
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I'd still go for the 150 shot.....
I know what you're saying when you're trying to get the 'feel for the car' I looked like a newb MANY times out there trying to get everything adjusted right and figure out how it all works. Theres SO much more going on than just driving up and dumping the clutch......lol
Tip on the burnout, it looked like you were keeping it in 1st gear....get the tires spinning a bit in 1st and click it down to 2nd and let it eat.....
Good luck on getting your bults lit first, sometimes guys just drive straight up in there, especially if your burnout lasts longer....
IMO the more sophisticated the setup the harder it is to drive cosistently if your going to be a winner since there is no room for error during the brief launch and WOT period. Lots to think about getting right and the rush of the acceleration becomes and addiction.
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Actually phil you look pretty cool dressed up as elvis on that little scooter. And if this is the hardest decision that you are having to make then your lucky.
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Very Nice!
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Oh, phil, BTW after watching all the vids it is no doubt that your crazy! Just thought you would like another opinion!
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Phil if she loves you then she loves you warts, farts, skid marks in your shorts and all. The bike is not a deal killing, relationship ending, marriage busting thing. It's just a damn excuse. If its that far gone then kiss that damn thing gone and buy the bike. Women are a dime a dozen, especially ones that give ultimatums like that. And yeah, I been married, she died, have kids, been there done that!
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The rod to cam lobe clearance issue is on cylinder #'s 2 and 5 respectively, so if assembling an engine using anything else is pointless.
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Do what you want, it's your life and you will live with the consequences of whatever you do. For myself and myself only I live each day as it is the last. No regrets, no worries and when I die I will have done all I want to do.
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You're right, that IS ironic.
So should we chop two wheels of a car for you, or add training wheels to the bike?
:lmao: That would be a party!
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nah, have some fun while your still crazy enough to.
Yeah maybe, I you obviously have me figured out. Going to take it to aspencade, the big rally in ruidoso in a couple of weeks. Supposedly there are 17,000 bikes that show up annually.
I called S&S and gave them the engine serial number and it is a 2006 113" motor and has .640 lift cams in it which are more race than anything else. It lopes alot when your cruising at any speed and at idle. Sounds like a top fueler and jerks the bike alot. If you get on it at all it smooths out good though, its just at part throttle it's really really lumpy and turns heads cause it sounds mean. It is a really fast machine, alot faster than I want to go on 2 wheels. Kind of ironic, I can't get fast enough in a car.
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I was trying to sell my '94 dodge single cab 2wd diesel truck. Guy comes by and wants to trade the bike. So I said WTH and now I have a bike. It rides nice, hauls the mail pretty good, cruises nice but somebody else probably needs it more than I do. Got the title changed over, insurance, etc. today, so I'll go for a ride before the afternoon rains come.
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Yup, I have definately lost it. It is for sale if anyone is interested. 20K
1999 Pancho frame, hardtail, 2007 S&S 124 inch motor, 5 speed, belt drive, new custom paint, chrome everything and polished aluminum whatever is left. New rubber and yes it hauls the mail!
Somebody just shoot me, please.
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You mean the head bolts won't budge I assume. Yes an impact gun is the correct tool to remove those along with a 6 point impact socket.
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Already a thread on this.
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I don't agree with the NOS even though it may work in this case it is just a crutch for improper converter design. Proper converter design is paramount to consistent performace. Most performance converter companies will re-stall for free anyway. The price of a removal and installation to get it right is less than the purchase, installation and maintenace of a NOS system IMO.
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To answer your question, the layman can lightly put oil on the entire valve stem, insert it into the head with the top of the stem even with the top of the guide. Then place your finger on one hand over the hole, use the other hand to pull the valve back out of the head. If it draws a vacuum on your finger and makes a pop sound when the valve comes out, then chances are guide is ok, if not then the guide and or the valve needs to be replaced. IMO if you mic the valve and it has .0015 or more wear then it needs to be replaced. Mind you the FSM is about stock motors and running a motor stock. Performance applications are something quite different IMO.
:lmao: 
Happy Birth Day Warren...
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Happy birthday my friend!