dr_hunt
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Posts posted by dr_hunt
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I agree, it is toast. Not just crank damage, but radiator damage as well. Do not use that under any circumstances.
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A true gearhead, always modifying something that most leave alone.
I modded my '84 pete, turned it up to 605HP! Now I pass everything except the fuel depot.
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You will be singing "I didn't know a worn out ford part could go so slow!" "I got to get to the church on cumberland road."
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Sorry Warren, my thoughts are with you and their family.
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Nascar mandates 12:1 compression. I would imagine that custom pistons would be required as they use 6.2 inch or longer rods, 3.25 stroke cranks and 4.185 bores. The bore spacing is different so the crank may not be the same or the rods have different offset. Would be neat to see one.
Why would you want a flat plane crank when it already turns 9800rpm? Run it like it is.
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I ordered the moser axles and wilwood brakes today. I already had a narrowed 9 inch rear end but it had re-splined truck axles and they were 28 spline. Also they had 5 on 5 bolt pattern and you can't get wheels for that that are not truck wheels. So I ordered 31 spline axels and 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern so I can use ford and chrysler wheels which are more plentifull. I bought a detroit locker that is 31 splined also and I will be running 3.50 gears which I have already also. So, when that is all assembled I can start the cage and backhalving the car. Oh, too much fun. They should be in next week!
I got the 140-2115 wilwood brakes which are a pro-street brake with 4 piston calipers. I have the same on my Monte which work great.
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Oh yeah, you could do alot with that. You could do a complete build with heads, pistons, cam, rods and crank for that.
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That looks like a standard performer to me. What is your budget? All this talk is meaningless if you can't afford the pieces.
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Well, got most of my engine back, block needs cam bearings, they ordered the wrong ones. The gaskets aren't in and neither are the hyd roller lifters. Pistons are flat top 2 valve reliefs. Heads were freshened up and have matching valve springs for the custom cam.
The cam specs are 226/223 int/exh duration at .050, 114 LSA and .565 lift based on 1.5 rockers. I'm running 1.6's so the lift should be around .602. Pretty agressive lobes. Should idle nice!
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Street carbs are more responsive to changes if you use the annular discharge boosters as opposed to downleg or straight. What ones do you have? What carb do you have?
The booster determines signal to the carb and dictates fuel curve. You may consider the C&S aerosol billet carb if your looking for a great fuel curve for max power.
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Since you are leaving it all stock inside IMO would stick with the hydraulic cam since you don't want to spin it as much as a solid will go. Your building another engine later so maybe you want to go cheap and easy with parts that you can use later to get where you want to go with your usage now.
Go with the 64 cc Dart iron eagles with hydraulic springs. Use the 201271 grind. I find that that works really well with a stock converter, gives you some lope, and great midrange torque. I have run that cam and it will top out at about 6000 rpm. The tight lobe center comes on quicker and lower than the wide lobe center. In the z it is a pleasure to drive.
Dart makes those heads in a 49 cc option which will allow you to get high compression with flat tops. Circle track guys use them all the time and I just built an engine for a guy using those for a rule restricted motor.
You can make around 500hp with those heads btw. so if budget is a concern, then I would recommend them since they will get you to your goals.
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My car is a 260z with 3.90 gear ratio. I have a STOCK 350 with the worst heads possible and a th350 tranny. this is just my starter engine, but I would like to go faster. My buddy has a couple old chevy's he takes to the track so he is helping me a little, but after seeing my car run last weekend I don't think he wants to help me anymore (he does not want me to be faster than him). I only ran 13.4 at 94mph but I also had to get off the gas at about 1000 feet because I started floating valves. Simply put, I did not have enough gear. I will fix part of that by replacing my tires with 235/60 15. This will give me another 3" in the back.
I want to replace the heads and cam at the same time as my tires. I was thinking about iron eagle 180cc or the 200cc. I don't have any idea which cam I will need. My buddy will still help me with everything, but I want to make sure he does not try to talk me out of something that might be a little better. any help would be great.
Welcome to the support group, now please stand up and tell us that your addicted to speed! Thanks, now you should feel better.
The dart iron eagle 200's would be a good choice especially if you plan on more upgrades later. IME they do not adversely affect the bottom end torque. If you opt for the 64cc chambers you can get some compression which will help cam selection. I am assuming your running a stock converter so you will want to stay around 225 degrees duration at .050 and get as much lift as you can. The intake would be another area of cheap upgrade, try the edelbrock dual plane manifolds or the weiand. Some headers would be good too. It never ends BTW.
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Going to pick up my turbo engine on Friday. It took awhile to get the JE pistons and the custom ground hydraulic roller cam.
So, I can start assembly of my turbo motor soon.
On another note got a new dizzy for the V6 car so I'll have to take pictures of that soon as well.
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I can imagine dr_hunt in one of those Corona commercials...sitting on the beach...surfing HBZ on a laptop, hehe.
Dayum, discovered again! I'm the third slacker inbetween the two college hotties.
Pic's later, don't have that capability here.
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Just wanted all you members to know that I'm slacking big time on the Beach in Mexico.
Drool all you want Cozy, they are bigger and better in Mexico!
Later dudes!
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The 1/4 panel was bent by the tire tread departing at highway speed. Probably happened at normal highway speed too!
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I am still playing with the front end travel somewhat. Any rise in the front at launch due to uncompressing suspension is supposedly not desireable if your trying to tame wheelies. Eventually you have to tune the rear suspension once you get the front figured out as to what seems to be best. One thing at a time or you never know what worked.
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Having been building engines for 34 years and having knowledge of the DSM's I can tell you that I have not seen a v8 ford, chevy, mopar experience separation of the main caps from the block except in the early chevy 283's which were weak 2 bolt blocks. Even so the thrust bearing would keep it fom walking. The DSM's eat the thrust and the crank walks to the point where the counterweights hit the block. I have seen that. I have seen fords v8's 302's split in half. I have seen sbc's lift the heads. I have never seen crank walk or thrust failure except when having torque converter issues. My opinion and experience only though.
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I see what your saying. I guess the high hp failures are more likely related to crank walk from extreme cylinder pressures.
Chevys, fords and mopars of the v8 category don't experience crank walk. Your thinking of dsm motors.
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Looks like you need to stiffen the right rear shock in compression and limit the front end travel. It needs to pick up both wheels the same and not very much to be as quick as it can be.
We run 5 clicks harder on the right rear shock QA1's and have limited the travel to ride height sitting still.
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Cool!
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Depending on the shift kit and who built the trans. The shift kit can, and most do, raise line pressure and have enlarged holes in the separator plate that will allow for quicker shifts which include first and reverse. When the trans is rebuilt performance the wavy steels are often omitted and replaced with an additional clutch or steel or both, sometimes requiring machining of the piston depending on the trans and thickness of the steels and clutches. This also contributes to the jerky feel. So yes, IME that is what normally happens when a shift kit is properly installed and the transmission is properly buit. It is a good thing in terms of slippage, hp handling capability, heat generation, as there is not enough hp and tq at idle to tear anything up. Well, unless your running a blown nitro engine idling at 2800 rpm.
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I am not following the logic here. Your going to spend $6000 for a bike to save 30mpg worth of gas. Thats assuming what your drivng gets 20mpg.
At $5/gallon gas, that's 1200 gallons or about 24,000 miles of driving. If you get 50 mpg on the bike for the 24,000 miles your going to use 480 gallons or another $2400 worth of gas to go the same distance. All in all you could spend $8400 for gas and get to drive 33,600 miles if you keep what you have. Also the bike is not a particularly good wintertime or foul weather transportation. You still have to have the car, still pay insurance, now add bike insurance, accesories, helmet, etc, etc. If you finance it, its even worse.
Doesn't make alot of fiscal sense to me, but it is your money. It's like having a wife and mistress at the same time. Your going to enjoy it, but it'll never work out in the end.
Looking for some information on these awesome cars.
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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I think you need to change the title to something a little more appropriate. Otherwise it'll go to the shed.