A. G. Olphart

You're right! Thanks for the link PJ.

Your brackets seem to be rotated about 90 degrees from the maxima drawing... Is this to make them a slide on piece held in place by 3 bolts? How does the altered position work out with the plumbing and emergency brake cables? I,too, would appreciate a drawing- something like these may have a place on my 240. Thanks!

Since GM didn't do it, does anyone have a favorite conversion (slip on adapter/star wheel and a Mopar style pickup coil perhaps) for the early points type distributor? I'd prefer to trigger my spark box with a magnetic pulse and get away from shaft/bushing wear and the possibility of point float. (Much less wear with no side forces!)

Thanks Lone- good site. I'm really hoping to gain some insight into Vortec porting- They're reputed to respond atypically to porting techniques. You presumed correctly on the cam lift- the 4X4 cam shown has .474 lift with 1.5 rockers, and the Vortecs are supposed to handle about .480.

Steve, we need to know what you are trying to do before anyone can help you. Are you trying to swap a specific alternator into another vehicle? If so, you would need to post information on both vehicles: make, year, model, with or without A/C or automatic transmission, and then post the name and all the numbers off the alternator as well. If you are trying to learn how an alternator works, that is entirely a different matter.

There's now a dead Vortec 350 in my garage along with the dead 240Z. After reviewing the engine combinations on http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html I've decided that I like combo 99, but it uses a flat tappet cam. Today's question: Is Comp Cams Xtreme 4X4 no. 08-413-8 as close to optimum as I can get for this buildup with my stock hydraulic rollers? (Combos 83 & 84 seem to show that the Vortecs are very sensitive to overcamming- No way do I want a 4400 rpm torque peak. This is/will be a road car, so mileage is important. That is also why it won't be a 383). Also, has anyone run across pictures or a really good description of porting on the Vortecs? The Basic rule seems to be "Don't do much", but this buildup used 'pocket ported' heads. Thanks-

Only one output- the big wire. small wires are often field and ground, but could both be field. Check the manual for the donor car.

There are almost as many sources for Chevy small blocks as 305's in the local pick and pull- here is an alternative source to consider: http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/sales.html Good luck... this is just one place I bookmarked against the day I can afford to start my conversion. When you purchase your engine any reputable dealer would presumably also sell the bits needed to get it up and running, or at least tell you what you will need.

The last water injection I've dealt with was on a John Deere 'D', and it did away with the ping under load with distillate fuel. (Actually, on the 'D' it was more of a clang than a ping). Fast forward a few decades: Does anyone have a recipe for putting a fogger under my Holley? Adjusting water flow for engine rpm and throttle opening would seem to be a bit of a trick for non computer/ non injected engines. Need any other variables be considered?

Grumpyvette- Thanks for the clarification. One assumes (love that word) that a precise answer may be found empirically with an extrude hone .

Grumpyvette- Your HP calculations, links, and posts are appreciated by all of us on the board... but this one I can't follow. If each cylinder of your hypothetical SBC needs a steady state 110CFM, but is fed during only 212.5 degrees (85% of 250) of its full 720 degree cycle, would not the cfm requirement during that 212.5 degrees be found thus:(720/212.5)X110CFM=372.70CFM? Even this would seem to be an averaged figure, ignoring the reality of valve lift curves. Where am I missing the boat?

Someone who shall remain nameless has had an engine run rough and backfire due to crossed plug wires... just a thought.

Damn Lone, you must be near as old as me to remember twin white fans on the butt of a low white car (going rapidly elsewhere). Weren't those things spun by lawnmower engines or such?

I'm lazy- If I couldn't find the sheet that came with the rings, I'd look in another box (same brand) at the store/wholesaler. Someone here may know if you tell them the brand... coding may vary with manufacturer.

Thanks Scottie, I'll check them out .

Scotties success with the 200-R4 and the need for an OD tranny at highway speeds led me to acquire a core to build up from my local Pick and Pull. It's out of an 87 Pontiac station wagon with some sort of small V8 (fits all case), so I figured it might be stronger from the factory than some were. This seems to have been an unjustified assuption. More web research indicates that Scotties tranny & valve body is unique, and only the BRF, CZF, KZF and OZ varieties are worth messing with (they are the models menitoned as working with an aftermarket shift kit). The big question: What do I do to and is it possible to make my KCF version live behind a 400-450 horse smallblock. I would like to retain a manually switched locking converter for highway use. I kmow firm shifts are needed for longevity, but don't need a shock load that shears stub axles. Related question? Anyone know of a good aftermarket valve body? Thanks guys- AG

From another non engineer... The clamping force is equal to the area of the piston in square inches times the line pressure in pounds per square inch. the dimensional labels multiply out, leaving pounds. The bigger the piston, the more the squeeze, based on area=(3.14)(radius)(radius). Multiple pistons will be additive. But y'all knew that... Oh, well

Thanks- hope the same answer applies to the N47 head. I was wondering about just grinding the liners out & having large native aluminum exhaust ports, but only if the head needs to come off. the 240 engine is seized, or the old 280 wouldn't be considered. I've no idea how much life may be left in it.

Are the 240z guages regulated at 5 volts or 12? My 240 will probably retain stock guages as they (as someone- you? stated above) serve primarily as indicators of a change from the norm.

OOPS- the 7805 is a 5 volt regulator & you are playing with 12. Shuld be a 12 volt version amenable to the same trick. Sorry

The dead 240 in my garage is slated to get a v-8 when the house is finished, but a free 280z engine has just shown up. If the 280 head is drilled & tapped for my 240 manifolds, will this just drop in? How deep can I drill before striking water? Can I safely grind out the circular tin liners in the 280 exhaust ports should it be necessary to pull the head for some other reason? Anything else I'm missing??? Thanks-

Pete- Mopar Muscle had an article years ago on voltage regulators for guages. Mopars back when ran a bi-metal strip type regulator that eventually fails. You can put a 7805 regulator (may still be available at radio shack) in the Mopar can, along with a 270 ohm half watt resistor. The modified can works fine- have had it on 2 moprs & an IH. The back of the 7805 package (radio shack 276-1770a) had a picture of the 7805 pinout. The 270 ohm resistor goes from output to ground (stabilizing load for the regulator, one presumes). Other than that, input is from the ign switch & output feeds all the guages. The mopar can may have been needed as a heatsink... don't know. Don't think the guages really draw much.

If you are making the pipe that will feed this, why not? You build it, you match it. I dont see why the 4 barrel manifold would be of any advantage... with boost. The 2bbl manifold you have matches the heads you have. (Do the 4bbl heads have larger ports? if so, the 4bbl manifold would be a bad move as well as an extra expense). My wife has a 69 roadster with a 2 liter Toyota in it. The side drafts & header fill the engine bay pretty good. Your v6 should be awesome.

It may only be my Z-car ignorance showing, but what about the effect of an offset change in the new whhels... I once drove a 65 chev with chrome reverse wheels, and it was really twitchy. I understand that a line drawn through the steering pivots (down the center of the strut?) should intersect with the center of the tire contact patch at the road. If the tire moves out of this sweet spot, then all that sticky rubber has a lever arm with which to influence where the car gets pointed. This could lead to dartiness, but doesn't explain your car's new tendency towards oversteering.

Thanks for the replies- don't feel quite as dumb as before... no direct way to push the print button. A.G.