A. G. Olphart

Thanks for the feedback John. I was hoping there might be a Mopar tranny expert hanging around (or passing through). I guess I need to research the four speed automatics to learn of their torque capacity, how to make them shift etc. So far I know that 1990 and later vans run the 518 (727 derivative) but I don't know if it is computer controlled or hydraulic like the 727. Guess I keep looking.

As usual, I'm confused: I don't follow the logic of putting smaller jets in dual carbs because they are seeing smaller displacement. With less displacement per carb, the throttle plates will just open less... like they are running on the big engine at a lower RPM. Isn't jet size pretty well tied to the venturi size? (I noticed in the charts of stock Ford DGV's that the ones with small jets also had smaller venturi sizes).

Thanks guys- I'll give them a try.

In my experience manual chokes must always be at least partially opened when the engine fires/starts, and even more when you begin to move the car. Do you really even need to pull the choke? In this area (Chico) a couple of pumps on the accelerator is generally all it takes. When I do use a choke I push it all the way in (off) as I leave my driveway- it gets expensive to run down the freeway with the choke on, and can damage the engine as well. If I don't take it off right away, I forget: see screen name. (Sometimes I have to pull the choke back out a ways if I hit an early stop light). Carb jetting is a whole other story... if you bought it new, it is likely pretty close. You will need to check plug color or visit a dyno facility to know. Hope I read your post right & this helps.

I'm considering a 360 swap for my 240Z, but need to run a solid 4 speed OD automatic. (In GM land both the 700R4 and the 200R4 are said to break under horsepower without massive improvement $$$). Is there a stock mopar 4 sp auto that can handle 4-500 HP long term and that doesn't require computer controls? I've not played Mopar since 904/727 days, so I'm totally clueless on the 4 speeds. As the project is still in the planning stage, I could use all the other obvious answers also... Whose headers fit (model #'s), a motor mount adapter drawing if there is one floating around, proper damper, will the Edelbrock Performer RPM/Holley combo fit under the hood, etc. Thanks-

Going for the challenge, eh?

Search came up empty for Polygraphite. These bushings are said to be self lubricating (no squeaks)... they look good to me. Has anyone run them? I plan on buying a set for my 240 & would like to know of your experiences with them. Thanks! Here's the link: http://www.p-s-t.com.

Oops, cancel the above- just found your earlier topic. Is it fair to assume that you don't have a plugged exhaust?

I don't konw a d***ed thing about fuel injection (never had an FI car), but since no one else has taken a whack... this sounds like simple fuel starvation. I know- not simple with FI . You have spark, or it wouldn't run at all. You're having problems when you try to load the engine... sounds kind of like the ultimately plugged fuel filter, tank pickup filter (do Z's have them?), or a bad fuel pump. I'd check fuel delivery, then try the high tech guys for computers, injectors & the like. Luck.

Last time I ran into this it was a bad diode in the alternator. Something is discharging your battery; to verify this, take the ground cable off the battery to isolate it from the car's electrical system. Then charge the battery, hook up the cable, and your engine should crank again. Anything left on- like a glove box light- will eventually kill a battery also. Your assignment, should you choose to accept it, is to locate the current leak... good hunting.

Jim- the military makes land mines out of plastic and I've seen the resulting shards- they look like chipped flint or obsidian. NO WAY would I set up a plastic air system... copper may conceivably split some day and let all the air out, but at least it won't throw razor blades at me. Was this .02 or a nickel's worth?

If I remember right, Homier has been through here doing one day sales in a rented hall (off a semi)& had typical import stuff. Your link didn't specify any one compressor. I only saw one that is belt driven... a 5 horse unit putting out under 7 CFM; not much air for 5HP. (I have a 5HP two stage that does around 17 CFM. I really like 2 stage as my air tools function well throughout the pressure range... They seemed to get a little tired before my old single stage started pumping up again).

I once had a hose blow on my Corvair - solved the problem by tossing that pretty/shiny/SMOOTH chromed thermostat housing. It pushed the hose over the lip even though it had tight 'aircraft style' clamp. An ugly/rough cast iron housing kept things dry until I sold the car.

It may only be coincidence, but check out the hydraulic roller lobe specifications chart in Comp Cams online catalog, Pg. 229. http://compcams.com/catalog/229.html. Physical verification should be possible...

You are fortunate to have those memories of good times shared. Those are yours to keep, no matter what. Glad to hear he's doing better. Ben

It gets worse. What does a person with cast iron Vortec heads do for tall covers (as required by roller rockers)?

A car's wiring handles aging fairly well... the wire itself doesn't deteriorate, although the insulation does. In a dry climate and left to do the job for which it was designed, it can go on almost forever. On the other hand when the load on a circuit is increased substantially, like swapping out the 55 watt headlights in favor of some 500 watt paint peelers, new relay switched and overload protected dedicated circuits become a necessity (not just a good idea). Too much juice through the original wires can lead to smelling melted plastic while canyon carving in the dark... a unique sensory experience. Enjoy your 'Z'. Mine's still in piles in the garage.

Mid engine conversions can be fun... I did a Crown conversion on a 65 Corvair (SBC in the back seat) early in the 80's. It handled OK and I Autocrossed it a few times. It ran in 'B' modified, a tough class. The only limitation was engine size (I forget where the break to 'A' mod was). My car got an aluminum engine housing/doghouse built right after the first test run. It ran hot (radiator in the rear) so I came home and parked it in the driveway and got out. THEN the top radiator hose blew off the shiny chrome thermostat housing, filling the interior of the car with scalding antifreeze/water. The radiator went up front, and I'll never buy another of those slick chrome thermostat housings. If you build a Toronado/Eldo or (fill in the blank) _____________ beast, post lots of pictures for us!

Labrat, It Doesn't work for me... I go back to the posts from the 13th when I use my browser's 'back' button, even after hitting 'refresh' in I.E. I checked my computer's clock/calendar and it is set correctly. So my original Question still stands--- Any comments from the crew running the BBS?

Have a helper pump the brakes 3 or 4 times fairly slowly (or until he/she feels brake pressure if sooner) and then yell 'ready' (or whatever) while holding the pedal down. That is you cue to quickly open a bleeder valve, and close it as soon as the flow of bubbles or fluid diminishes. If you close it while stuff is still coming out, there will not be any air going back into the system through your bleeder. As soon as your bleeder is closed yell 'closed' or something to let your helper know it is safe to release the brake pedal and pump again. Continue at each wheel until you have clean fluid with no bubbles for 3 or 4 cycles, then go to the next wheel. Very fast pumping is bad because it traps bubbles in the fluid. If your helper lets the master cylinder go dry, you will essentially be starting over- not a good thing. The master cylinder is generally bled pior to being bolted in place... one works the piston slowly, and the little bubbles come up through the holes in the bottom of the reservoirs. A slow process. An assistant with thumbs over the brake line openings can help- the thumbs act as flapper valves. If your master didn't go dry while you had the system open it shouldn't need bleeding. If it did go dry, bleed it first. I think you had the wheel sequence right- start with the wheel farthest from the master, and work closer. When you actually get pressure up at the rear (assuming drum brakes) the shoes will tend to center themselves and often need readjustment.

Oops- my typo was kind of left out for God & everybody to see, wasn't it? No spell checker (and a few other excuses which I won't list at this time).

In the past I've been able to use my browser's 'back' button to return to the forum postings menu from any given posting. Now when I do this (at least on the Chevy board & one other) I lose the last couple of days posts when the menu comes up. Is this something intentional in the board setup to make us use the 'Hop To' button, a glitch, or just my browser not cacheing the latest menu each time I visit. (I prefer the 'back' button as it seems faster).

I don't know the history of the engine... I got it as a core. It has the standard transmission clutch boss (tapped hole), so my guess would be dirty oil, heavy clutch, and starting many times with the clutch depressed. I start all my vehicles in neutral with the clutch out, but the safety police seem to have eliminated that option in newer rigs. Since I got only a dead long block, I need to buy a small harmonic balancer, flex plate, pulleys etc. If the old & new cranks are balanced the same, I know I can get the pieces for the old style crank. I don't know if the crank snout is the same on the one piece seal engines (all balancers would physically fit) or not. I will be using the smaller points type distibutor, so I don't need the special (big/expensive?) crank trigger damper that comes on a Vortec engine. These are probably questions for Grumpyvette. I'd like to build it stock (no balancing involved) as I'm on a fixed income like all retired folks. With the lift limition of the Vortecs and the rpm limitation of the new sintered/powdered rods, I'm hoping stock balance is good enough. My guess is that these new rods have a closer balance out of the factory than the old ones.

aaib- Your concerns for the Pertronics box may be well founded... Mike C mentions cooking his in another post. Also, Pertronics has come out with a second version; one of it's selling points is that leaving the key on won't hurt it.

My Vortec 350 needs a new crank (ruined thrust bearing surface), and I'd like to source a good/cheap fully balanced crank. Stock is external balance for powdered steel type rods and fairly light looking pistons. Are these cranks balanced to the same bob weights as the earlier (2 piece seal) cranks? If so, an adapter would mate my engine to an old crank. The rods, pistons & cylinder bores look decent, so I'd like to reuse the stock rods and pistons.