karay240

Unless you're doing the work yourself, the RB26DETT swap will probably be cheaper when you include parts & labor. And as someone else suggested, you could run dual exhaust on the 26. Power really isn't that big of a deal w/ the RB, either. I personally have not attempted the VG30DETT swap into the S30, but I think anyone whose worked on the Z32 will agree w/ me when I say it's not even close to fun. W/ ANY V-configured DOHC motor will cause you (or whoever's working on the car) some SERIOUS grief. The VG30ET, from what I hear, isn't that bad, but I really don't have any info on that.

In order to really give the right answer, I need to know why you're so admant about this TT set-up. If it's for response, then I kind of see where you're comming from. That being said, I'd like to point out a couple pros/cons of each se-up. Single: Pro-Cheap, and easy. That's not to say that there's anything wrong w/ that. Once you start building your own turbo system you'll understand what I'm talking about. Con-A little more laggier than the twin set-up. Twin: Pro-great response and great bragging rights. Con-Surging. W/ a twin ball-bearing set-up, whether or not they will be minor or major, I'm 99% sure that you're going to have some surging issues. In order to avoid this problem, you'll have to do build a intake manifold like the VG30DETT where the right bank feeds the left bank. Which leads me to the next con. . . Con-Price. W/ having to build a custom intake AND exhaust manifold, you're looking @ an insane amount of $$$. Just a little something to think about. . . I'd LOVE to see that set-up come to life, though. . .

the actual blocks are the same thing. it's the only thing that I can recall that carried over b/w the DETT and the ET.

Hey Sparks280zt, that link was pretty cool, but the question @ hand is the DETT swap, not the ET. This ET swap does bring an interesting example of how tight the fit is. The Z32 motor is DOHC and is SUBSTANTIALY wider than the Z31. This does even include the TWO turbos. The only 240Z I have seen w/ a successful VG30DETT in "Z Car magazine" back in '97. I've looked and looked for more info, but have been unsuccessful, so if anyone can chime in, that'd be great.

Another thing to consider about the different turbos is not only how quick they spool, but also the way in which they spool. The traditional journal type will spool later more abruptly, while the BB turbo will be more linear boost curve. This is what contributes to the "instantaneous" throttle response of the BB turbos. When I say instantaneous, I mean this as a relative term. Just about anytime you put a larger turbo on a car it will spool later. Just as a side note, though, there is nothing really wrong w/ the jounal type. The newer turbos can run tighter clearances than the BB turbos, and have been getting better throttle response as well as top-end.

the term "locked", I'm assuming, is that it's a mechanical (clutch type). that's what the GTR uses, but not 100% sure w/ the GTS. You do need to think about how much $hipping is going to be, too

Although the FD diff is great on an FD, it CANNOT handle torque. The diff is a problem w/ lots of torque and tire. You are right about the size being the same(ish) as the R200 LSDs. I've seen some high HP FDs w/ a Nissan R200 diff in their pumpkin so they wouldn't scatter. For a semi-wild 13B, I don't see the need to go swapping diff internals, but I also don't see the need to get parts that break. There are other options if you're wanting to go w/ a torsen LSD: the R200 from the S15 & R34 (non-V spec), Quaife, and OBX makes a helical LSD for the 240SX (for the R200) Ask your local shop how much they could get the S15 helical for, and go from there. As for the other options, I have heard some of our customers complain about the OBX one, but I think they were trying to drift (kicking the clutch etc.). The Quaife one, I believe, has a lifetime warranty, so it might be better to get that one, but it's also 2~3 times more than the OBX.

Assuming you're talking about an RB25DET, a front clip for an R33 for that price isn't bad at all. You can get motor sets for cheaper, but it really depends on how much of the R33 you want in your Z. Also, on a side note, this is not to say that the 25 is a gas guzzler, but you're modifying a car to double your output. . . forget about mileage.

the ARP rod bolts are the same as Z32 bolts. the mains, however, are not produced by ARP according to their knowledge. that's why we have custom bolts made by them, and offer the main stud kit for the RB26. (about $200ish, I think) As for the comment about the main gurdle keeping the bottom end in check, I don't 100% agree w/. Reason being, we've build everything from 400~1200hp rb26~28, and I know for a FACT that nissan tries to cut costs by using the crappiest bolts. This is why it's a common problem to toss a rod on the 26. This is the problem that we encountered w/ the automotive forums' N1 R34, AND BeeRacing's R324 @ Irwindale @ the last D1. These motors have something in common--a rod bolt gave way and now they both have a hole in the block. lol.

I'm probably going to get flamed like nobody's business here, but here it goes. . . If you're wanting to spend the least amount of money and aren't infatuated w/ HP numbers, I'd say go w/ the miata. The miata might weigh around the same as the Z, but you must think about why a smaller car like the miata weighs so much. It's from the niceties like sound deadening material, A/C, power steering etc etc. If you take off all the stuff the miata that the Z has, then we don't have the same weight. If you want the Z to have a chassis as stiff as the miata's, then you're talking about a roll cage than will make the car even heavier. On top of that, once you get your Z, whether big or small, it will be a restoration project. Bottom line, the Z WILL require time, work, and $$$ just to get the performance up to where the miata is out of the box. In conclusion, I'd just like to add that I love the Z, and I would go w/ a Z. lol.

hey mark, I guess whole seating position thing is very subjective, but was the positioning to the point where the seat couldn't go any further? B/c right now on my 240SX, I have a type of steering wheel spacer (about 2 inches), b/w the boss/hub and the steering wheel, and was wondering if this type of spacer would be able to solve the problem. The shifter might need to be modified a little, but that's not that big of a deal. It's just really nice to have the adjustability these pedals offer. Of course, it'll also clean up the engine bay quite a bit, too.

the interior door panel looks good. . . . . . that's about it though

I’d like to say one thing to anyone seriously thinking about this type of drastic modification (not that some of the swaps I see here are any less insane) Although none of these multilink/double wishbone swaps are easy, it would be far more feasible and will make your life much much easier to choose a system w/ upper and lower control arm mounting points on the crossmember. Systems like the Nissan multilink or the double wishbone from the RX-7 might be great if done right; however, you’ll have to reengineer the upper control arm mounting points. If you’re into this kind of challenge, that’s great. But if you go w/ an integrated system like the Mazda Miata, then you only have to worry about caster and the instant center. (I know I’m oversimplifying the procedure, but I don’t think anyone should be trying anything this involved unless they are willing to read a little more than a couple of threads on a forum)

Hey, BlackBeaut, the front suspention design on the Z32 is the Nissan front multilink design. This same/similar design was used in the R32, 33, 34, G20, Q45 (I think), and several other higher end cars (not that I'd call a G20 a high end car) It allows the front geometry to be more stable than the conventional strut design. Nissan used this design over the double wishbone to allow space for the front axles for the G20 and the GTR. Look @ the Hondas and other FF cars w/ double wishbone, it's pretty much the same.

If you're wanting the ease of turing @ low speeds, but not when you're driving hard, there is another option. the SW20 MR2 uses an electric power steering pump that you could run w/ the speed sensor or have a switch for daily driving and spirited driving. Of course, this means that you'll need a PS rack anyway, but just throwing different options out there for ppl that actually have heavy engines up front. Not so much w/ the SR crowd.