vega

You may break halfshafts but I think it's proven that the R200 is strong enough for most people. http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry686923 that is a great link- i hope all the people there are telling the truth if that is true then that is great- what are these 10 second z's doing for maintenance and what kind of oil in their diffs?

well I am looking for about 350-400 crank hp. I have seen that picture before I was told that it was not an r200 in that pic. Also proven force a the major diff builder up here in mn told me that 400 tq is about max those diffs can take before they start breaking- now I can't remember if it was wtq or crank but all the same. Also he was the one that told me how the diff is affected with different rpm levels etc. he (mike- his last name escapes me) has been doing the diff thing for 30 plus years. What is a spooner attitude btw? I have not heard that phrase before-

no that is NOT the criteria of the swap.... that makes no sense. My point was that nistune is not available for these the 280z ecu- one would have to- as previously stated swap to a z31 ecu. OR one could just swap to a gm ecu. I will NOT be retaining my stock ecu when the car is modified for any reason. As for the r200 I don't think it can handle the tq of a low revving v8 without too much stress if the tires actually hook as I am working on the suspension to do so- I am not building a drift car where it doesn't matter. Now a higher revving v8 which the peak tq gradually comes in and toward the higher end of the tq curve I think it can handle. I just don't think the amount of hp I am looking for at that kind of rpm is plausible in a v8. I want about 7-8k rpm in the v8 so a 327 or smaller preferably a 302 which good luck there so either build a 283 or a 327 or a 327 small journal with a 283 crank (FORGED crank btw because anything past 5600 rpm is going to be too hard on a cast crank. So now JUST for a descent forged crank new we are talking about 1100 or so. Now lets make it rev even higher - lets just use a 283 with some great heads- well from my understanding (I could be wrong- I was told this by a builder) there is something about how small the pistons are in a 283 that are great for higher revving but have a hard time making hp because of the size of the head options available- which for my goals are going to make that a very expensive build. I have gone through and blue printed the price on engine builds and the like it seems that we are talking about 6 or 8 grand for the kind of power I would want out of a v8 where the kind of power of a supercharged or turbocharged l28 is a bit more attainable. Now if it was a low revving motor this would be WAY cheaper- but I just don't think that is a good idea from what I have read, my own personal experiences, and from talking to people in REAL life rather than just online. I hope that clears things up a bit- you come off a bit standoffish. I am currently talking it over with a friend of mine about using the stock dissy with a gm ecu- seeing that it has a 6 tooth magnetic pickup design a gm ecu can read that kind of signal without using a crank trigger- THAT will basically BE the crank trigger. Which is pretty much how the ecu is already setup in this car, except that it does not have the far tunablity as the gm ecu i.e. using the moates ostrich real time chip emulator and chrome. What I need to figure out is if I NEED to use a gm icm or not. That part is what escapes me at this point.

nistune is a daughter board i have SOME but little experience with it on the 240sx platform. 27 pin is what most manufacturers use with their obd1 system with their eprom chips so you can take that out and put in a zif socket and a burnable chip or chip emulator like the moates.net products. From my understanding unless things have changed nistune is not available for my 1978 ecu. If it is or was i love nistune it works great!

what chip are you removing from my understanding there is no 27 pin eprom chip.

There has NEVER been a chipable nissan ecu... yeah... about that...

not to dig up an old thread. Thing 1. but hey looking at your setup did you NEED to delete the distributor for that location? Because the later 280z cars had a 6 point tooth magnetic pulse reluctor wheel that the signal can be sent to a gm ecu so no need for mega squirt or a crank trigger just get it from the dissy- so it would be nice to keep that dissy. Thing 2. did you need to have a header because you wanted one or because there was no room for the stock header from the 280z motor for the blower to fit for your placement of it? Thing3 3. Do you have more pics of that ac bracket mod you did. And in fact do you have any measured out diagrams. The last "thing" AWESOME build I would actually like to see a twin charged (both turbo and supercharged) l28 one of these days with a fully forged rotating assembly and a fully ported and polished head. The m90 blower off of the old super coupes is the best idea also because it is cheap upgradable and it goes to a throttle body instead of bolting down to the intake vega-

It is what I was told by many motorcycle guys that dirt bike carbs had better throttle response is all. as far as getting the fi to be playable in the car aside from megasquirt which i took some time on their site as well as diy auto tune. and read a lot. I also have experience in tuning hondas and dsm cars with obd1 that for me is VERY simple just use chrome and there you go. The best setup i have seen on here for fi is a member called 6shooter- he has switched to a gm computer and made his own crank trigger setup. To me making my own crank trigger is a bit iffy FOR ME. the thing i would do IF this would work is use the electronic distributor I have and get a signal from that to send to the ecu but I haven't a clue persay how that would work. If you have some insight on using the fi more than i do as far converting and old engine to newer style fi setup so it is easier to tune please enlighten me because from all the searching I have done I have found very little in this aspect to any kind of ease behind it. Because it comes down to this convert it to carbs or convert it to a newer style fi setup- at least as far as I can tell. The other thing I am going to attempt is a t5 swap from the zx models for the strength in the trans with a short shifter kit.

why are you doing a 2jz over the l28? and how much are yo looking to get for your setup?

Dirtbike and snowmobile carbs gibe better throttle response than reg carbs do- for one- for two, it would almost be like fuel injectors one per each cylinder and it would be like itbs again one for each cylinder. Also with carbs instead of fuel injection I am honestly not as limited. Now what I mean by limited is this. it costs WAAAAAAY more money to get teh right injectors, the different fuel rail, higher pressure fuel pump, the map sensor, the maf sensor, the iac sensor, the crank trigger, and a bunch more. Also I would have to buy the tuning equipment or higher someone to do it for me- uh I don't higher people to anything for me really. So I would need the software for tuning it, which no one really makes. So there is mega squirt now I have to try and figure out how to setup my own wire harness and figure out how to get the sensors previously mentioned installed on an engine that did not have them. For example 6Shooter has "figured out" how to make a crank trigger work and crank sensor. All this to me seems like it is waaay more of a hassle than making it carborated. I've seen carbs that go on the dyno that compared to their fi counterparts are not that much different in numbers on almost same setups. It has more to do with the skill of the tuner. getting the jets set right and screws etc. So that being said- does anyone know the answer the question(S) I asked?

Well here is my idea- because I want to run 6 dirt bike carb- I think I am going to make a plate that the carbs bolt to that also bolt to the head as my intake so that they almost act like an itb setup. How thick of a plate do you guys think I need to run for that? Also one thing I am getting a bit confused on is how the box is put on and sealed to the carbs- do you have any pictures of what it looks like on the back side that goes to the carbs? Also do you guys have any idea on the linkage for all the carbs to open up at the same time? And lastly would for fuel going from fuel injection to a carb setup- would I just run a fuel pressure regulator (or a rising rate regulator) to the carbs for the fuel pump or how does that work?

UG- I just gave Kevin at extrudabody a call- basically they don't do any carb setups- they have a plate for webers but that is about it. The search is still on for a manifold that will work with my dirtbike carbs, and a box for the compressed air.

Awesome! I'll keep that in mind.

HA! look what I found guys! I left them a message if they don't call me back tomorrow I will call them in the morning the next day. I have Friday off so- I really want to get this project going here before the first snow fall. I live in mn I have a garage heater but its propane so it smells bad in a locked up garage works great though. http://www.extrudabody.biz/servlet/StoreFront Looks like I can get most everything I need from these guys!

where I purchase them to be exact?

where did you get the cartech box, the intake for the carbs, and the the carbs themselves? everything else makes pretty much sense to me. though how do you tune it with the box on the carbs like that? that is something that confuses me. I was thinking about running 3 kawasaki kx500 dirtbike carbs for response. The conversion just to carbs is the first big step for me also.

So I was doing my daily cruise through the craigs list this morning- and I saw this guys setup he just sold. It has triple Weber blow through carbs with a toe turbo on his l24. Now I am thinking to myself. as i am looking at the setup. Well that looks darn easy. Perhaps too easy. Are there any good extensive write ups on here on how to swap the fuel injection OFF of my l28 (i have a 1978 280z five speed all stock)and put on the Weber setup to tune with a turbo? I have never seen anyone tune a blow through so I havn't a clue how it is done. I have done turbo cars with port tune injection before but NEVER have I done it with a carb setup. I am seriously thinking of doing this instead of a v8 swap- I just don't think my r200 will handle the KIND of tq the kind of v8 setup I can afford. That being said any advice links heck where do i even get the weber carbs- or the pressure box? anything at all would be helpful! thanx much vega- (oh and if you are in mn there are no guys into these in my area - I'm in anoka, mn if your in my area send me a pm I am trying to setup some z meets up here)

the thing is I live in mn right- there are a ton of 240sx' bmw mercedes 2wd pickups stangs even that are on the road I never seen them on the side of the road. and I figure that a very balanced car should do great, that and I am thinking of getting rid of my 2000 civic si, honestly my 280z does better in the snow than my fwd si does any day- (the si had issues so unfortunately last year I drove the z in the winter for like a week. on a side note whats up goldfish I haven't talked at you in a h-while!

just out of curiosity why is it that people think you like to mess with guys if you own a miata. that's bs

I know it sounds ridiculous BUT that being said. What car actually does better in the snow as far as getting traction handling and balance. A 2000 and newer Mazda Miata, OR a Pontiac Solstice both 5 speed cars.

a lot of 911's run cis from my understanding so I can't see it as that much of an improvement maybe like what 15 20 hp? regardless- so is the 318is and m30(that is basically a 300zx but slower) the only idea anyone may have on the poor man's g35/m3?

1987 BMW M3 8.1 16.1 1988 BMW M3 7.1 15.4 1995 BMW M3 6.2 14.6 1995 BMW M3 Lightweight 5.3 13.9 1996 BMW M3 Automatic 6.7 15.3 1996 BMW M3 Luxury 6.6 14.9 1998 BMW M3 Sedan 5.5 14.0 vs 1984 Mercedes-Benz 190E 11.2 18.1 1986 Mercedes-Benz 190E 2.3 9.9 17.5 1987 Mercedes-Benz 190E 2.3-16 7.8 16.2 1989 Mercedes-Benz 190E 2.6 8.7 16.8 1992 Mercedes-Benz 190E 2.3 11.4 18.4 even the older m3 is quicker

that's been my general point-

that was a very good idea- in fact I think that is where I may go with that- very creative thought behind that - actually I am going to go ahead and say that you sound like you understand my description of the character a bit better than others I have talked with thus far thanx much for that- sparky

btw I found it interesting that a few of you can relate to the character- it was was a goal of mine-