vega

Best video I could find of a smg being shifted with pedals (and my preference) the base stick. The stick is slapped up and slapped down, for sequential shifts (1 gear at a time).

I am getting my 700r4 (detente cable) prepped while I am waiting on parts for my 333ci sbc. I am looking for a shifter that shifts as much like the e46 m3 smg II shifter. I am not too familiar with ratchet shifters and gated shifters etc. As far as what is available. I am also looking for a quality manual valve body that can also be put into drive as well as be manually shifted, again LIKE the smg shifter. I am fully aware that the 700r4 is not an electrohydraulic manual transmission. I like that it has sequential mode where the driver can only upshift or downshift by one gear at a time. I would just like the option to put the vehicle in drive. This is intended for a road race car. Suggestions?

I just ordered my 195cc heads on friday should be here in like 5 or 6 days they said. I did much research and found the jegs heads (currectly) are made by afr for them with jegs stamped on them. no wonder why the flow numbers aren't that different. As soon as i get them i am taking them to milten thunder head in east bether mn to get them flow tested. I think with a lightweight and not much tire I can bennifit from running a higher rpm application.

as for adapters I did find company via the miata forums that I will be talking with shortly. I will keep you guys posted. They claim their adapters will hold to motorsport type of abuse, meaning they are safe to use in any situation. So if they are willing to make adapters for a 4x4.5 to 5x4.5 that would be great that way we can run mustang wheels and we don't have to deal with MM's (cake reference) "long line of cars". http://www.motorsport-tech.com/contact.html

i just got a quote from stockton in california. 41 for shipping each wheel. 209 per wheel bare (no coating) 17x9 they said they are willing to drill out the holes and and make them a 4x4.5 wheel. They don't go up to the 9.5 that i would want but i think i can live with 9 inches. Also they said they should be about 35 pounds each wheel, which in reality isn't really all that bad. Lastly if i were to go with a 9 inch in the rear what offset would i need to compare from a 17x9.5 with a -19 offset? They did say they were willing to make the offset of whatever i need!

So I have been looking around for wheels (very limited on the s30 chassis). The rota rb-r wheels are the perfect size but they (the 17s) are about a year or more out, screw that. So other options are to deal with MM which to me is too much a hassle (sorry mm but seriously, not answering emails is horrible customer service...). So I am looking for quality bolt on wheel adapters. I have been doing some research on wheel adapters and what people have had problems with. 1. the studs tend to break so ARP studs is what makes them work. 2. They need a centering ring (built into the adapter) otherwise its just the studs hold it up. So what company would you all recommend using for quality wheel adapters. Looking for 4x4.5 or 4x120 from the stock 4x114.3 about an inch or inch and a half. Recommendations? Thoughts?

its more that i am lazy and live in mn and dont want to look at my diff

uh huh.... i am aware of google

THEY ARE STUB AXLES DANG IT ALL! arg I currently have a 3.545 rear set in the factory r200 (which i THINK is a short nose??? i have been getting mixed up about what is a short nose and what is long...)so I guess I am missing what you mean going from 3.7 to 3.9?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=nissan+r200+final+gear+set http://www.nissanusa.com/nismo-web/Nismo-Motorsports-Catalog-2010.pdf http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/931602833/m/37210976611

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=gear&osCsid=0663f5b54717075070f43f272a8f849e&x=0&y=0

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=655774

http://www.thenismoshop.com/Nissan-Final-Drive-Gear-Sets-Ring-and-Pinion--350z-G35_p_69.html for a 350z - Can anything (aside the obvious 1500 dollar unit) be made to work with the older unit? this is where my knowledge on ring and pinions end. as far as that I don't know what can or can't be done as for swapping out ring and pinion from year to year to housing to housing.

http://www.thenismoshop.com/Nissan-Factory-OEM-Final-Drive-Gear-Sets--Ring-and-Pinion--S-Chassis_p_68.html this is for the later s series

http://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-r200-final-gear-set-s30-z31-r30-r31-58311 1500 huh ....

http://image.truckinweb.com/f/26921920+w750+st0/1001tr_05+genuine_gear_ring_and_pinion_gear_set+parts.jpg

I am very surprised that with the popularity of the car that a gear set has yet to be made aftermarket like gm and ford etc. we all know that it is technically called a carrier, i am just waiting to slap the guy that calls a crank shaft an arm....

I was there already - i did google this you guys. I did do some searching. Just for future reference.

where can one purchase a 3.9 set?

are there gear sets i can buy somewhere? i did not know what the obx unit was. I am a lead mechanic by day- i know how diffs work.... i read that the units affect the axles hence the question. I didn't know if it was the entire setup or what. more or less as previously stated i am looking for a a 3.9 gear and up.

The car is a 1978 datsun l28 5 spd (factory r200 3.545 diff) I have been building a 327 with a 6500 rpm redline. I am finding that a higher differential ratio is needed. Through some research I am going to go with a a Obx diff, I will deal with the issues. the problems I am having are as such. 1. from my understanding this can change the final ratio (I am looking for a 4:1 or higher)is this true? 2. how do I know I am getting the right unit for my diff? is this a longnose/short nose? 3. what gear ratio options to do I really have here? (keeping the stub axles btw) Is there something else that I may be missing? All in all I want to stay with a r200 diff that I have I just want to change the pinion out for a 4:1 or higher (I could live with a 3.9:1 but no less). All help would be greatly appreciated.

keep them coming looks great!

Was that 10.80 run on motor only with the drag radials? What would you guess you would run with 245 sticky street tires? Also where did your power come in at, as in what rpm was the 400whp and you didn't mention how much tq you made at what rpm? Also aluminum heads and intake? what cam/intake heads did you run? port sizes? what diff did you run? r180 or r200 or a conversion to solid axle of sorts? Can you tell us more about your nos setup? Tune? carb? controller? settings? intake manifold? what kind of plate? was it only at full throttle? what compression was the motor at? using the 93 octane pump gas what was done to modify to allow using only 93 octane with that large of a shot (or a shot at all for that matter)? did you just run her pig rich or what, etc? everything you can remember about it would be great.

I have been doing a lot of reading lately to come up with something as close to perfect as possible for my current project - that is an entirely different conversation on its own. I found this link in the pursuit of trying to figure out friction losses/aerodynamics and power correlation. I don't believe that the common understanding of how tq moves a vehicle is well understood. Most people think that its all about tq, I give you the rotary motor for analysis. It makes little tq but spins high to make hp (which yes is a function of tq. Anyhow, I was trying to figure out how much "power" (more or less) it takes to move a specific weight with tire friction loss, and with gearing involved. I found the coefficient of rubber on dry concrete to be 1.0 (0.8 on wet concrete). F = f x W/R f= coefficient of ROLLING friction (which is 0.01-0.02 for rubber on concrete) W=weight of cylinder (car in this case) R= radius of cylinder PROBLEM: how does having four 'cylinders' effect this calculation? The equation as it stands is for calculating force on a single rolling cylinder. Also, how can it be applied if the front two wheels of the car are on the platform that is doing the pulling?? http://craig.backfire.ca/pages/autos/horsepower

Could you tell me a little more about that?