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Somewhere in a dark corner of the "internet" lies a video of somebody that somehow crossed the leads from the header pipes so instead of all the primaries going into one collector some go into the other side collector........that produced a very exotic sound. Can someone tell me a little more about his process? 180 degree headers are NOT going to fit in my car so I am starting to try and find other options that will make a higher pitched more exotic sound (not rice...). Also if someone were to custom make them for the car, we are talking in the greater thousands. Working with a 327 chev. I love the sound of muscle, the car is not muscle and should not sound that way, or to the best of my ability to quench it. Looking to make it sound like a 348 Ferrari. It has the most balance of deep and high pitch that I have found of all the cars. It uses a 90 degree v8 just like a sbc. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrari_Dino_engine#V8 Exhaust clip Are there any other options I may consider? Lets please stay on topic and factual please. Much appreciated.

Were they the greaseable u-joints? Those are hollow and not as strong as the one with out the zirk.

Is there anything else I should know?

Any other drag racers out there that wish to testify?

Any issues with the welded diff thus far? Also did you end up using shorter z31t axles or did you flip it around?

Thanks you guys that is what I was looking for. Btw I will not be on autocross tires or slicks of any kind. If I do get to that point I will have custom rims made from diamond racing and do the entire conversion with the 4130 axles. I will be at stock ride height but with an inch or so taller tire than stock. This is a track day car that is driven on the street so I don't plan on hooking that much. -------- I have read a little bit on welding the diff. I have heard that the weld can break and cause diff failure. Although I have also heard that welding the diff in these r200s alleviates a lot of issues (pin etc). Thoughts? gearheadstik You did not say what year or model stub axles you were using.

I am finding NO information anywhere that is solid information at what tq each of these parts tend to break at aside the diff themselves.... we need more info on that. I posted here to try to find that. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/106147-drag-racers-using-long-nose-200/

I did read that. I have been doing a lot of reading on the subject. There is one post, ONE, that says anything about personal experience with breaking parts in relation to real numbers, ie tq/hp. I tried contacting the member and something is up with his inbox he can't receive new messages for some reason.

Those of you with a long nose r200 diff, at what tq would you say each of these parts break if the said part is in good condition, (good, better, best)? 1. 280z manual half shaft 2. 280z manual 27 spline stub axle 3. z31t cv conversion cv shafts? For those out of the know, I am building a 78 280z manual car with a 333ci sbc and 700r4 with engine breaking, full manual shift, auto shift, and with constant line pressure getting rid of the tv cables. I can modify the tune of the engine and parts I am purchasing based on the limit of tq on the drive train. The car will be on 245/50r16 firehawk wide-oval indy 500 320aa tires. These are 10/32nd very street-able tires probably good for about 20k miles without abuse 10k miles with abuse. I will be in the 500hp range but where I make the power in the rpm range can and will affect the level load on these parts. Any information on this would be much appreciated.

What do you guys think of running these with 245-50r16s?

Can we keep this on topic and keep the porsche comments in another thread please.... seriously.

If one were so inclined to use their fender as a mold for fiberglass what would one put on the fender so the fiberglass would not stick to the fender when trying to remove the piece? I would like to make an attempt to start making fiberglass body parts. Maybe carbon-fiber in the future. Any help ideas etc?

280z

That makes sense to me.

Much appreciated to the both of you in reference to my girl. She was shaking Wednesday morning she is a bit better now. We got her on some kind of anti viral they gave her. She has had continuing fevers up and they break up and they break. She has stay below 102 for the past two days thus far. Albeit she has gone as low as 97 which is odd to me. The highest she was at was 104.7 -------------------- JMortensen I must have missed the section on why they can't be cut. I won't be drag racing unless its on the street on STREET sticky tires (non drag radial type) I probably wont hook worth crap. I assume that if the tires are breaking loose this is a bit easier on the parts. These tires are more for high speed cornering. The tires are 320AA rated so I don't really expect them to hook, but they should hold grip around a corner for the track if I don't goose it too soon. The initial reason for the post is I haven't experience said "lift off oversteer" in any of the cars I've owned aside my old fiero (which is prone to it as well too short of a wheel base for the location of the motor and weight of motor/trans in my opinion). The civic si I own if I want to take a tight turn not only do I have to use the Scandinavian flick, I also have to flutter between full throttle and the clutch as well as trail break. In the datsun I haven't had to do that at all, just using a controlled slide is what I have found to work best for me thus far, which is WAY easier to control than the SI. I was taught how to drive from Chris Gordan who has done every Rally America event for the past 10 or more years. So my style of driving has come mostly from that. I also did participate at Nemadji trail with Chris Gordon and Dan Adamson back in 2010 in the G2 class. Just to give you guys my background. I will be driving the car on the street, on the highway mostly. Also as far as the track I will be at most of the time, I will be going to Brainerd International Raceway in MN. Just a track day weekend racer with the local import club. Nothing serious, I would only be racing against myself really. I am not really concerned about the other people and their records etc. The reason I am doing the v8 swap is I am tired of getting smoked by the darn civic and mustangs around down - on the highway. I figure that I will have plenty of power with the 327 I am using. That and the extra power will really help around the track as well. I have ran it with the L6 and really was disappointed. This is also coming from a guy who had used to own a fiero with a 383 blown sbc. You mentioned "shock loading the axles" can you fill me in on this a bit?

I finally got a chance to go look under the z at my shop a minute ago. I get what you are saying now. I think I am going to have to go in on the next group buy. I just spent 1800 in parts this last month. Got to wait a few weeks before I have another 700 again to blow. The woman just got mono this last week so she is out of work for a while. Her case is fairly serious. We thought it was the flu but the fevers just wouldn't quit. I took her to the hospital on Wednesday this week. It came fast and hard when it did come. Neither of us make a salary we are both hourly and commission so this kind of blows. We were told it could last up to a month. I am going to end up using my stub axles with your flange/cv adapter with the shorter shafts you sell. Probably going to be May until I purchase them from you. I will keep you updated. Thanks for the patience btw.

If you guys are so desperate to have a discussion about this open a different thread please.

You say in that original thread that the z31 axles are the correct size. Then it appears that later on people found they bind, from what you are giving me, because they are a tad too long. Couldn't one just take the z31t shaft to a local machinist and have them shortened? That seams that it would be significantly cheaper. For some reason I was thinking the splined end was the end that went to the hub not the diff. So is the spline the correct count from the z31t to the longnose r200 I have in my 78' manual 280? In other words would it slide right in as it appears? Also just want to get this straight. You are saying the companion flange the stub axle goes into is the part that usually goes bad instead of the stub axle itself unless we are talking about a car running say 10s with drag radials? I will not be running drag radials or slicks of any kind ever. To me it sounds like I can use 280z stub axles (the ones I have) with the cv conversion and be just fine. Is this correct?

Entire z31 cv axle set. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31263&d=1250938463

So I have been doing some further reading and I saw your amazing post. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=50499 So let me just make sure I have this right. Using the cv adapter can I not use the entire shaft of the z31 300zx turbo? Why would I still need to use stub axles if the z31 300zx turbo cvs are the correct length? I feel like I am missing something here.

Also thanks for the heads up to Chequered Flag the adapter flanges for the cv conversion (280zx or z31) are 400 plus shipping. The billet axles they have are 700. I am not sure if I need the adapter kit though. I am running a 78 280z with a r200 so I think i just need the billet axles.

Anyhow, back on topic. In your opinions at what tq level do you fellas agree upon that the axles start snapping on these cars?

How much does the celica weigh? how much the corvette weigh? The corvette still using that oh so amazing leaf spring suspension? I can see the celica taking a c5. Power to weight, less weight in general, a good driver, the power curve for the track, etc. Also I own and drive daily a em1 civic si with an sirII motor with sticky street tires, pretty stock suspension for an em1. disconnected the front links. I can take clover leafs in mn at about 65 before a spin out (sand forgiving). Fwd is not as horrible as people think if the steering shaft is low, the suspension is a wishbone style strut like the em1 etc. From a design perspective, a vehicle with the bias of weight behind the rear wheels and being rear wheel drive, is NOT the optimum for a high performance vehicle. If this was the best of the best why would F1 cars be all rear midship engine rear wheel drive cars? Why is it that they are the only performance cars with the engine behind the rear wheels that has had any success? Porsche has done an excellent job tuning the suspension on a layout that in physics and (again) from a design perspective doesn't really work that well for optimum performance. BUT that does not change the fact that if Porsche were to focus on a car (the cayman) as they should more that the cayman would blow the doors off and run circles around the 911 around the track, which it does from what I have been told by Porsche racers around mn. If I were do build my own car up from scratch it would end up being almost identical in every way to the cayman r. There are very few flaws in that design. The biggest flaw and advantage is the boxer motor. Boxer motors have an issue with their oiling system (from my own and other people I have worked with - experience) this can cause premature wear on the bearings. The advantage of a boxer motor is the ability to place the motor low in a vehicle cause the center of gravity to go lower with it. The power curve of a boxer is fantastic when tuning correctly it can make the tq through out the rpm range, up and down. I think a displacement of about 3.8 litters with a compression of 13:1 with direct ignition and injection with vvt and a variable intake and two cams above each cylinder head would be advantageous to such a motor. I have come to really like the new diesel designs myself and would like to see a boxer diesel motor if possible. Even internally at the *** this same argument is being made. Porsche vs audi vs lambo. Us discussing this topic really is about as useless as a 80 pound girl at a green treat wrack at a lumber yard.

I am not ragging on porsche. I love the cars, fun to drive if you know how to drive them. It takes a very very skilled driver to drive them well. I have driven 911s (on the street not on the track unfortunately)and I have driven caymans and 944s etc. I personally really enjoy the cayman s, and the 944s, and the 928 (when more power is added) after driving the 911 I think sticking the same driver (if we are talking open class rules here) in a different more midship design the later of the two should out do the 911 from my person experience thus far. Btw when I personally think 911 I think of the traditional rear engine rear wheel drive car. I am not talking about the awd 911 cars, I suppose I could be more clear. I can see how an awd 911 can and would out handle a traditional 2 wheel powertrain, that is, IF the electronics are properly controlled etc. I have yet to have the pleasure of driving an awd 911, from what I have been told by other racers they are amazing.