ezzzzzzz

As far as my understanding, the condenser has nothing to do with the ignition system and is there only to eleviate RF noise that would otherwise show up in your speakers (that hum that oscillates in time with rpm's.).

I have access to two late 85 production date 720's. One is 11/85 and the other unknown because the tag was missing. The diffs look identical to my R180 except for the CV flanges. The CV's look just like the 6 bolt 280ZX or 300ZX CV's too (three series of two closely spaced bolts). I can pick both up for $100 each with the inner CV assemblies (shafts cut) so I get the proper CV ends still attached. With all four pieces I can fabricate my shafts with the info you have provided. As for gearing, I have the close ratio early 5 speed box which seems married to my 4.11 rear end. It is a blast to drive and pulls strong throughout all gears. Dropping in a 3.70 would improve mileage but cost performance I believe. As for road miles, my diff is solid, quiet and performs very well. I don't see mileage as an issue unless poor maintenance, worn bearings or mechanical failure have created a problem. The only disappointment is my understanding that the 720 diffs are non-LSD(?). I suppose there could be a market for one of these to recoup some money, if only for the low ratio r&p set?

I'm looking into the 720 4x4 diff flanges and hope they still exist out there (and for a reasonable price). A local driveline shop is willing to build custom CV's for me ($$$?). Alternately, I could machine and weld up companion flanges like those that MM sells. I'd do it for both ends to match so a shaft could be installed in any position. I know that Porsche 928/944 used a bolt-in CV axle too. They just might be the perfect match. All of this because my diff is fine and unique. I wouldn't sell it off so buying another LSD diff/ axles would probably cost about the same as creating CV axles/ flanges. There would have to be interest from other early Z owners for such an adaption if I can make it happen..

I don't have access to a CV half shaft so I can't decern this myself. I've done some searching just to look at a CV half shaft but figure someone out here can look at a shaft assembly in hand. Maybe someone else has thought of this? What I'm asking is can a CV half shaft be disassembled then reassembled using extra parts such that you end up with a bolt-on assembly at both ends? I was thinking that someone like Moser Engineering could fab the splined shaft to build a custom assembly, if necessary. If this were possible then R180 diff flanges (bolt-on) could be made similar to the MM modified stub axle flanges. This would allow CV's to be run on early R180, longer and equal length shafts, etc.

I don't have access to a CV half shaft so I can't decern this myself. I've done some searching just to look at a CV half shaft but figure someone out here can look at a shaft assembly in hand. Maybe someone else has thought of this? What I'm asking is can a CV half shaft be disassembled then reassembled using extra parts such that you end up with a bolt-on assembly at both ends? I was thinking that someone like Moser Engineering could fab the splined shaft to build a custom assembly, if necessary. If this were possible then R180 diff flanges (bolt-on) could be made similar to the MM modified stub axle flanges. This would allow CV's to be run on early R180, longer and equal length shafts, etc.

I'm doing the full disc conversion on my 71 Z and want to get to the right parts first time out. The front will be the 280ZX/300ZX combo and the rear will be MM kit with 240SX calipers. I live near East Coast Z Center and will pick up the 280ZX pieces there. Never been there before but going in the next day or two to check it out. Another question, is $100 for these front calipers and hangers a reasonable price?

Frank, Please hold for me long enough to get over to the bodyshop and look at my rear diff housing. I'm assuming these Cv's just push (and snap lock) into the diff through the side covers unlike the early flanges that must be bolted in? Could you possibly provide photos so I have more of an idea of what I'm dealing with? E-mail me at mark4460@cox.net Thanks, Ezzzzzzz

My Z is presently in the body shop for damaged incurred when a rear tire came apart and whipped the sheetmetal viciously. I'll have to look at my diff when it comes out. The FSM shows a bolt extending through the flange and into the actual differential holding the flange assembly into the housing. Is this the part that might actually be a snap ring retention style unit? I can only hope that is the case and I have such a a diff. I can only imagine that an original R180 LSD with 4.10 r&p is rare(?). I'd really like to keep the R180 as it is stout enough for the slightly modified 2.4 L6 installed. I may hesitantly consider a swap to the R200 to get the CV longivity. Does anyone have photos of the Maxima CV assemblies and the matching R180 diff so I have a good reference? I'd like to spend hours scouring junkyards but I simply don't have the time to invest anymore. I'm also in the very early stages of Z ownership and understanding. Some of the terminology baffles me but I'm trying to grasp it as quickly as possible. That's why I'm relying on the knowledgebase of fellow Z enthusiasts.

I'm soooo tired of searching all of the Z sites without hard fast results. It seems that most questions get sidetracked with opinions or preferences and ultimately the original question never gets a viable answer. Okay, enuff of my ranting... I have a 71 240Z with a 4.10 limited slip R180. I've climbed under the car and looked as well as rotating tires and counting driveshaft rotations. It is in excellent condition and I have no interest in swapping it out for a R200. One of my outer U-joints is failing and I would like to convert to a CV setup, if possible. I cannot find a viable step-by-step procedure to do this if one even exist. If not, the other option will hopefully be to use HD U-joints like those produced by CTM should the size required be produced. They are very expensive and used almost exclusively by the competition rock crawlers. These U-joints do not have bearings but are sleeved instead. Bottom line, is there a doable CV swap that will allow me to keep my R180? Is so, could someone provide the vital information? Many thanks..

SpeedRacer, what struts are you using with the Eibach springs?

I've just purchased a 2002 WRX rack for my 71 240Z conversion. The swap looks very doable without too many modifications. The original 2.4L is still under the hood. As such, could anyone tell me what PS pump (and remote reservoir, if applicable) and bracketry that is a direct bolt-on to the 2.4L straight six? How about required pulley(s)?The hoses are not an issue as these can be fabricated to adapt pump to rack. I know others are comtemplating this too and find info sporatically throughout the forum. It seems that many subjects get sidetracked with superlative commentary or hijacked and spin off on another subject entirely....just an observation, mind you.

My 71 Z has the original springs and struts. It rides like it too. Add the severe lack of cushion in the seats and it makes for a rough ride. I plan on replacing the foam insets with those found on Ebay (Datsun Restore or Intense). Before we go any further, has anyone used these inserts? Was the difference worth the money? Okay, back to the suspension. I don't race on the track or the street. I don't need OR want a bone jarring ride and slot car handling. I do want to lower the car though. I'm leaning towards the Eibach Pro-kit for the progessive springs. I'd thought about coil-overs but Don at Ground Control said he would recommend the lowering springs they offer(?). No other info has been provided as to rates, spring type, etc. I'll also be replacing struts. The Tokico HP's sound good but the Illumina's set to 1 might be better(?). Eibach is marketing a pro-damper strut for their springs but I've heard nothing of them. Bottom line is to lower the car, give as comfortable a ride as possible and do it only once. I need suggestions to acheive this or a close compromise based on real world experience?

You could pick up a magazine pertaining to the old lead sleds, roadsters, etc. Then try contacting the numerous custom wheel producers like Boyds via the ads. They might be able to assist you.

After hours spent searching for brake upgrade info for my '71 240Z (on many websites) I've come to the following list of parts to suit my purpose. FRONT- 79-82 280ZX front calipers and hangers 84-up 300ZX front vented rotors (non-turbo 4 lug) REAR- 88-90 240SX rear brake calipers and hangers 81-84 Maxima caliper brackets (bolt-on & assuming these are from rear) 84-up 300ZX rear non-vented rotors (non-turbo 4 lug) Brake hoses ???????? 79-82 2180ZX master cylinder (15/16" bore) The only thing no one mentions is what flexible brake hoses are needed. Can I use the original (or new replacement) hoses or is another required due to fitting differences? Obviously, braided lines are better but I'm trying to discern the basic information. Anyone who has actually done this conversion please speak up. I also know I can order the rear brackets from Ross and may very well do so. The problem seems to be that no one gives very specific data as to which parts (year/model of vehicle, front or rear location, etc.) are needed. Photos would be nice too (I'll be taking pictures of every part and installation to post). It would benefit many Z owners looking for better brakes. There is also the Toyota 4x4 caliper and stock disc but I personally think a vented rotor is superior if you're going through the trouble so I've left that out in this post. Most of us would gladly bolt on a high dollar pre-fabbed kit if we had the extra money. I don't have unlimited funds (single dad with a young daughter, fiancee with kids) so daydreaming about such niceties is pointless. Can we somehow come to one post with all the pertinent info available? Thanks and sorry if it seems like I'm on a rant.

Maybe I'm missing something but with the 280ZX caliper/300ZX rotor (front brake conversion on a 240Z), which vented rotor is used? Is it the front or rear rotor? Common sense tells me that the front is vented and the rear is probably solid which would answer my question. I don't have time to hit the JY's to research anytime soon. I want this upgrade and have credit at the local JY to pick up the pieces needed. They'll pull if I identify the correct parts. I just want to get the right parts first time. Thanks

I pulled the 240SX fuel tank today and laid it next to a spare 240Z tank. The 240SX tank is slightly longer, deeper and has a little less height but it's very close to fitting, I think. The height would allow for clearance of the pump assembly fittings and wiring. The straps appear to be in the same location and the tank narrows towards to drivers side to clear the exhaust. The worse seems to be the rear passenger corner where the tank bulges out and might interfere with sheet metal. With little or no modification it should be very doable. The upside is you can keep the spare tire well intact, it has the internal pump assembly and it looks like it belongs. Some finesse would allow the use of any pump needed to feed carbs or FI. If someone in the Hampton roads area of Virginia reads this and has a 240Z without a tank installed we could get together for a trial and error fit. I'd love to get rid of that noisy external fuel pump feeding my 2.4 liter.

Has anyone tried this? I purchased a '90 240SX at auction for $216.00 delivered. It was trashed up front but has a nice Pioneer CD/MP3/FM stereo and the complete rear dics brake assemblies for my disc conversion. There's also the 2.4 ltr. 12 valve and 5-speed gearbox. Anyhow, I've got a LS1 in the garage for a possible conversion. The stock 240SX tank has the internal pump and is similiar in shape to the 240Z. I have considered pulling the tank for install in the 240Z. The pump could be swapped out for a low pressure unit to feed the triple Dellortos and later a HV pump for the LS1. Has anyone given this thought or actually tried it? I have no desire to gut the spare tire well for a fuel cell or LS1 tank.

Well, let's try to look at this logically. Why did you perform any of this work? Why did you replace the fuel pump? If the older pump is working or you have a viable replacement then you need to try that first. It becomes more difficult to resolve before and after problems if multiple changes have been made without verification of each step. Why did you rebuild the carbs? Did you use blower style gaskets (plastic) or paper? how did you clean the carbs? Is the misfire a constant stumble? Is there backfiring in the exhaust (indicates ignition problem) at mid/high rpm's? Was anything else disconnected in the process of work? Is there a chance that a plug wire was pulled and damaged or not reconnected properly? I seriously doubt that valve lash is the problem. It sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me though. A wideband O2 sensor installed in the exhaust with the LED meter installed can tell you a world of info about what is happening? These are not terrribly expensive and can be used to curve fuel delivery for best performance.