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I'm having no success in finding a part number for the 100mm x 40mm CV joint. Every supplier says they don't stock much of their so-called inventory. As such, they can't measure anything...I'll need a specific application. It looks like I'll be using the 930 joints. Much looking seems to price these out around $75-80 for a cv joint/boot kit. I have 4 - 4.5" diameter cold-rolled steel disc's to create the adapters. Got them cut to 1.5" and 1.25" per pair for my design and spent $43 on them. I wish I had a lathe of my own so I could get these further along. Check out my gallery to see the original adapters I had made. The CV shown is a Type 4 (100mm x 34mm) with a limit of 17 degrees. The 100mm x 40mm allows 22 degrees and the 930 has 25 degrees. The R180 bolt-in side flanges are from a 720 front diff. They work perfect in my NISMO R180 LSD.

Thanks for the feedback, BlueOvalZ. I was considering how many are still running U-joints (including me) which operate at a much more restricted angle than a CV. My Z is street driven only but I hope to get some track time in the future.

I have 17 x 7 RacingHart C2's on my 240Z. This wheel looks very similar to the wheel sans the rivets. These also have center covers that give the appearance of a true knock-off (no, not a cheap wheel). Their not up to BBS quality but are a very good wheel just the same. I'd trust them on the track. The look is awesome in my opinion and works well with the 30 y.o. lines of the Z.

My rear suspension is out for powder coating and new bushes. While I'm there I will complete the Porsche CV axleshaft conversion. BlueOvalZ used the 930 CV joints which are overkill for the application (killing a mosquito with a 5lb hammer as he stated). I LIKE that though. Anyway, These allow 23 degrees of movement (strength diminishes quickly past the 15 degree mark). This is achieved by a 40mm thickness where smaller joints are on in the 32mm range. I have every intention of using these for strength alone but I now wonder what the actual range of motion for the axleshaft is in a 240Z. Smaller CV joints are good up to 200+hp (maybe more) and allow only about 17 degrees before the cage moves out far enough the allow a ball to dislodge causing detonation. All that said, could one of you (with an assembled rearend) measure the total movement of the axleshaft from extension to compression using an angle finder? I'd like to know the maximum swing in degrees. If no one get around to it I'll do so myself when everything gets reassemblied in a few weeks.

You could unmount the tires and take the the wheels to a local machine shop with a turret lathe. They could take off that minimal amount of material from the backside of the wheels to get the -6 offset. That is about .25" of metal. Your wheels might be thick enough at the hubs to easily support this. It's cheaper than tires or new wheels. Just a thought.

I'm seeing prices from $70 (MSA) to $118 (Raceshopper) a complete set. There are Earl's, Techna-fit and Goodridge (maybe others???). What and where should I choose? Money is not the biggest issue but quality is. A good deal is not always a good deal.

According to the ATSG service manual, it sounds like one or more of the following. Valves stuck in the valve body, damaged servo assembly, worn band assembly, worn or damaged oil pump assembly or one of several problems related to the case. A reputable transmission shop should be able to diagnose this closer. I'd look at the site you've hyperlinked but our network security is over the top with restrictions so I can't get there from work.

What are the end pieces in the pic? I mean, what is this going in? I have been working on Porcshe CV adapters too. Mine are for the 280Z stub axles and the CV flanges used on a 720 truck front R180 diff. These will go into my 71 240Z. Do you have drawings are pictures of these adapters alone? I think this is the best option for CV conversion. They are very strong, plentiful and cheap. Also, they are shorter than the ZX tulips which means the boot clears the sway-bar link through full articulation. NEVERMIND, I went to your gallery and saw them. They look very close to my design. Great minds think alike...

I run the GM relays too. Always run a good heavy wire for the pump 12V and ground. Mounting the relay in the rear of the car and using 10 gauge wire will provide all the amperage the pump will need. You can run the power lead inside the car following the factory harness and then exit to the pump location with a grommet.

13.5 to 14.5 Volts is correct. You may see a slight voltage drop at night with a lot of accessories turned on. The ammeter is a more sensitive device and most of the electricals in the car are fed through it. Another way to test your charging circuit is to measure the voltage across the battery posts with a voltmeter. It will also indicate voltage drop as you turn on accessories.

Running your senders in the lines is not as accurate as straight from the main source (the pan). You could certainly try it though. With a carb, you are only running 4-6 psi. You can mount the sender in the FPR or off a Tee somewhere between the pump, carb and FPR. If it's an electrical sender then you can mount the gauge inside the car. If it's mechanical then the gauge needs to remain under the hood or mounted outside visable through the windshield unless you are using a fluid isolator. NEVER run a fuel line inside the passenger compartment for ANY reason. Burning to death would be a grisly way to die. Regarding the kill switch, on most vehicles today there is an oil pressure switch the must sense oil pressure to close the circuit (as you attempt to start the car and then while it is running). It typically provides 12V to a fuel pump relay. This relay provides the 12V to the electric fuel pump. If the oil pressure drops (bad oil pump, low oil level, rollover accident, etc.) the switch opens up and kills the 12V to the fuel pump relay. The pump stops pumping fuel to prevent engine damage or fuel spraying (as in an accident). If you are running a mechanical fuel pump then the switch means nothing to your application.

Nitrous Oxide is non-flammable. It is the breakdown under heat and subsequent release of Oxygen that promotes burn. Fuel must be added to reduce going too lean during injection. A dry shot is merely a much smaller dose of Nitrous Oxide (without additional fuel) that limits horsepower gains in the lower single digits. It's actually called Nitrous Oxide or N2O. NOS is the acronym for Nitrous Oxide Systems.

What engine/tranny are you using? The oil and trans temp are usually located in the applicable pan (you will need to install a bung). If you're running FI, the fuel pressure sender can be adapted to the inlet fuel rail port ( I brazed another fitting into my line so I had the gauge and option of testing/bleeding from the other port). If you're using an external FPR in the return line you can come off the spare fitting on it. Water temp can come off the head (there's a NPT plug in either head typically for this) or thermostat housing. Oil pressure is found in the rear galley near the distributor to the driver's side (a small NPT plug). There will be an oil pressure switch here to kill the fuel pump relay if oil pressure drops for any reason (assuming you're going FI and electric HP pump). Not sure about the LS1 for oil pressure sender but I'll look at one in my garage and post it.

http://www.hpsalvage.com

Without sonic testing you don't know how much wall is in the cylinder(s). You can bore over and take the risk or sleeve and know all is okay. I'd want to know how much meat is there before I bored more that .040". I don't see any advantage to an overbore except it's salvaging the block for another rebuild. I've seen chevy blocks with shifted cores that would not allow a .060" overbore due to porosity. Maybe the L block is thicker and or more accurately cast. Siamesed blocks are stronger but require more attention to cooling since there is less surface area in contact with the coolant. If it were me (and I can get anal) I'd look for another block or sleeve all six cylinders to run stock pistons. If you decide to sleeve even one cylinder be SURE the machinist doesn't bore all the way through and fit the sleeve. You want a step at the bottom of the bore to stop the sleeve from possibly dropping. It is retained at the top by the head. If you haven't heard of or seen a sleeve that moved...well, lets' say things come apart rapidly and it ain't purty.

My setup is almost identical as Quik240Z's. I also used the Lokar cable and ran in back over the valve cover to another custom bracket. The difference may be that I left the shaft linkage bracket in place and welded an arm to the shaft assembly. This rotates my Dellorto's to W.O. with the gas pedal all the way to the adjustment screw in the floor. The pedal is a bit heavier than before due to three return springs as opposed to only two for the SU's. I haven't started the engine yet so I don't know if the throttle will be too sensitive or not. Anyhow, it's looks really good and appears that it will function very well. I'll try to get some photos up.

There are those that will voice desenting opinion but I'll post this anyhow. I first open the bleed screws (speed bleeders types), one at a time, and force fluid out of the system (via brake pedal) until the MC is empty. I'll even use low pressure air to move additional fluid up the the MC or disconnect the lines at the MC and blow air through the lines and opened bleed screws. An inline filter (like used for paint guns) works wonders to reduce moisture. I then use a pressure bleeder to force fluid up to the MC from the caliper/wheel cylinder until the MC reservoir is full again (you need to replace the speed bleeders with stock screws temporarily). Lastly, I bleed the calipers/wheel cylinders as normal. This ensures that most air has been removed from the lines and the MC is bled properly. This technique has never failed me. If I don't get brakes and there are no leaks or sticking calipers, I look at the MC as having failed. I also use silicone fluid (makes for a slightly spongy pedal). The argument is this pressurized fliud has air and moisture induced into it during the process. and that isn't good for the system. I'll agree to a point. Bleeding and replacing fluids is vital to longivity whether it's oil, tranny fluid or brake fluid. Most people don't do this...

Most use the cable or vacuum system to control air flow. The servo unit is a stepper motor that allows you to blend heat and a/c to moderate the temp not relying on the fan speed alone. Int the old days it was freeze or swelter. The thermostat would cycle the compressor but the air out was the same temp when on. You could adjust the heater control to control temp but it required two steps and still flucuated at the vent. Also, defrost works much better with dehumidifed air. Running the a/c, but adjusting the temp for warm, does just that and the windshield clears quicker. Modern cars operate the a/c in defrost without your input for this reason. According to Vintage Air you can also adjust the output from vent to floor or somewhere in between for you choice of comfort.

Basically you would gut the heat and a/c unit of the Z. The Vintage Air unit would mount in it's place. The smallest is on the scale of 9"x7"x19". The blower motor forces the air thru the combo coil assembly (blower fan are designed to push not pull). The ARA pulls through the evaporator and pushes through the heater core. The only two downsides of the combo unit is recirculated air only and the a/c and heater cores are integrated. If one goes you replace the core as a unit. The upside is compactness, effectiveness, and longivity if you maintain your coolant system.

That was just the evaporator and control panel? Where did you order from?

It will likely be cost comparable. If the system has been open for a long time you're better off looking to replace all. That's just one man's opinion.

Just to chime in, I'm also looking to install a Gen II evaporator in my 240Z. It is a ways off though. I already have the Sanden 508 compressor (modded for R-134), bracket, aftermarket condensor and enough hose to fabbed the Hi and Low sides. The only things needed are a few fittings, control panel and a dryer. The Gen II seems to be the best solution for real a/c, heat and defrost. I like the idea of servo controlled flaps and blending of vents. The three vent assembly appears to be no bigger (maybe smaller) than the OEM unit. The only drawback I envision is recirculated air only. Maybe, just maybe, there is a way to incorporate the fresh air duct too! Has anyone priced out just the evaporator? I know that VintageAir, HotRod Air, etc. do not make a kit specifically for the Z so it will need to be cobbled together.

I just did mine and ran into the same problem. As I recall it was easy to figure out by looking a wear patterns in the mating pieces. I beleive the open face goes down. Correct me if I'm wrong...

You'll need 240SX rear calipers (and hangers) as stated in the MML description of the brackets. Just for notes, if you don't have a local JY to pull these from (for use or cores) watch Ebay. They come up now and then. I'll be putting some out for auction soon too...maybe this week if things work out.

I keep reading about the DOHC heads and such. It is a curiousity more than anything else. I can't seem to fin the answers with web searches. I must be inserting the wrong subject data.