ezzzzzzz

I got the "almost finished" adapters from my machinist friend. They only need the smaller holes tapped for the porcshe CV 8mm bolts and the mounting holes drilled/tapped for the stub axle flanges. I'll do that over the next couple of days. I've opted not to weld the adapters to the flanges since the 280Z pieces are getting harder to come by. There's only the custom axles left to get fabbed. Plenty of photos can be seen in my gallery...check it out!

Unfortunately, the links to linkage are not found at this site. Despite the age of carburation and especially tripple setups, I find the lack of resources to be appalling. Most likely, the best sources are small shops with minmal or no websites. I have a good throttle linkage setup on my Dellorto's and was looking for a cross shaft lever. TWM has one or two ($24 and up) and Pierce has bits and pieces to fabricate what I need too (I think). I'm off to the machine shop to make my own. I'll either fab an aluminum clamp-on lever or a steel shaft collar with flat lever welded on. It's cheaper and makes my work day go quicker. I did hastily order a Lokar 36" throttle cable which I'm sure I can incorporate into the conversion.

I have a 11/71 240Z with non-retracting belts. Later 240Z's had the small pockets pressed into the floorboard behind the seats to install a retractable unit. The retractable shoulder belt spool mounted to the top of the rear strut tower to my knowledge. I have a complete set from a 76(?) but I can't install it because there are no pockets in the floorboard of my Z AND the shoulder bracket is made for the FLAT topped strut tower while my Z has the triangulated tops...bummer. I'd like to have the retracting shoulder belt at least. I haven't given up entirely on the project as of yet. The Mazda system sounds okay except I question if the shoulder belt locks properly under emergency braking or impact with the modifications mentioned by Pop N Wood.

I saw a Toyota FJ that had the voids filled with "Great Stuff". It was discovered after the body rotted fron the inside out due to moisture being trapped inside. I think it was put there in hopes of reducing noise levels. There is nothing on the market (that I've ever seen) like the item described in that news article. Much like the composite heat barrier material used in modern vehicles, trying to acquire such material is not likely ever going to be viable IMHO.

I found a number of linkage parts at http://www.racetep.com and will source some items from them. My present idea is to fabricate two brackets. One will mount where the manifold shaft linkage pivots at the firewall. The second bracket will mount off two intake manifold studs. A ball-type fitting will be used to accept a barrel end cable (probably from a bicycle where the cable actually enters through the end of the barrel, not the crossways). The firewall bracket will hold the cable sheathing in a fixed position. The other end of the cable sheathing will fit into an adjustable cable mount at the intake manifold. The cable will start out at the firewall heading to the passenger side and loop back over the valve cover. The cable will finally attach to a cross shaft lever (attached to the shaft facing downward). When the pedal is pressed downward, the cable is pulled via the original bell crank and the cross shaft lever is pulled up towards the valve cover. This, in turn, will rotate the cross shaft actuating the carb throttle levers. Alternately, a cam-style lever (Nissan makes a clamp-on piece but I don't know the application) could be attached to the cross shaft and a pre-fabbed cable assembly could possibly be used.

I'd like to convert my 240Z cup/ball linkage to a cable setup. I've read about people doing this but haven't seen any pictures or sources for the pieces needed. In the past, I'd readily fabricate parts to accomodate a project. My desire now is to find available parts to do this without having to make unique one-of-a-kind pieces to suit. An example would be using a Nissan clamp-style cable lever on the crossbar to attach to accelerator cable to. I've never seen one in person but http://www.racetep.com offers one in their cable conversion kit.

The truck exhaust manifolds (for sure on the drivers side) sit out wider than the F-body types to clear the front driveshaft on 4x4 applications. The F-body would work well. I'm using Corvette manifolds on a project because they drop down near center and tighter to the block.

How do you convert that to read in english?????

The reality is your setup is very durable for all but diehards. 280rwhp is quite a bit of power. I'm still running the 2.4 L6. The reason for the porsche units is to create a more compact CV assembly. Hopefully this will allow me to run my rear anti-sway bar without modifications normally needed to clear the boots during maximum articulation. I want to be different just like everyone else!...

Sweet! I just dropped by to see a machinist friend of mine and he had a surprise for me. A few weeks past I'd left some adapter drawings (for the porsche units) while he was out on leave. He showed me the start of my adapters which are the four billet steel pucks cut/machined from a six inch diameter three foot piece of stock. I need to supply the actual flanges to ensure the holes are drilled correctly and then....WOOHOO! A couple of axles and I'm in business. I do have a set of 300ZX axles and four inner CV's from a 720 truck. I believe I could use the 300ZX axles with those pieces to create what you've done. Anyhow, Great Job!

The Miller 135 will serve your purposes well. Spend what it takes but it should be in your price range. You'll also need a bottle and regulator (about $300-350 for a 90cft bottle and decent regulator). Fluxcore wire is intended for use outside where winds disrupt the shielding gases. It makes a mess too. Miller uses cast metal roller assemblies which are more durable than the plastic pieces of other manufacturers. If you have the 220 Volt option (and you do if you have at least 100 Amp service panel) go with the Miller 175. The difference in quality of weld and service cycle is WELL worth it! I made a 60 foot extension cord to use my 175 and plasma cutter in the garage and driveway. ESAB and Hobart also make good machines. I hate to say use credit to make up the difference for a good welder but it can be a lifelong investment and you'll regret shortchanging yourself later.

In all the times I've used an inline pulse generator it has never functioned as intended. My applications were requiring the 40 pulse for a GM OBDII ECM (V6 and V8 engines). I ended up modifying the tranny to accept a reluctor gear and VSS. That said, there is a simple generator which consist of a magnet glued to the driveshaft and a small coil located on a bracket which creates a pulse each rotation on the shaft. It works well with an electronic speedo and you can cap the cable output on the tranny. I'll try to figure out where I purchased mine if there is interest. I do have an unused one somewhere in the garage too that I'd sell. It's just a thought...

Line locks function but they are not legal on the street in most states. Why? If there were a hydraulic failure (leak, etc.) the brakes no longer hold. All parking brakes are mechanical for that reason.

My understanding is it is possible but the yokes have to be machined to accept replaceable u-joints. It isn't a fast fix but I'd suggest contacting a local driveline specialist or ship it off to a custom driveshaft shop.

http://www.britbits.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/new_parts.html Look at the bottom of the page. This the tool to have for the job. You could do a search for other suppliers using "tie rod removal tool" or "ball joint seperator" It's worth the money the tool cost. Mine came from a Land Rover Rally last year. Otherwise, just wack the crap out of the knuckle or use a pickle fork and destroy the boot. I prefer this tool over all other options!

I've run a Centerforce 1 between a '96 4.3 V6 and NV4500 in my modified Land Rover for 5 years now. That's not much horsepower (200hp/250tq) but it sees A LOT of ABUSE offroad and has never slipped. I've gotta give a thumbs up to Centerforce.

A air driven or electric cutoff wheel will work wonders if there is room for the wheel.