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I'm at a stumbling block. I want to get the CV conversion going in my 240z. I need to know if there is a difference in the splined end (spline count, diameter, E-clip groove, etc) between a 280ZXt (six bolt CV) and a 300ZXt (4 bolt CV). I want to use Ross' 300ZXt billet companion flanges (four bolt) to gain additional shaft length. I could use the 280ZXt companion flanges (six bolt) if needed. I'll have to get custom axles machined since I'm using a NISMO R180 with CV style side flanges. That's why I'm asking. Once this is settled I can feel comfortable about dropping $300 on axles just to get the outer CV joints plus another $150 or so for the custom shafts.

I'd have to confirm but it sounds like you've got it backwards. Maybe I can look at a tranny in my garage later this evening and get back to you.

It may cost a little more or not but the results wll be the same. The wheels will bolt up.

Ah Ha!

I've got two electric 4psi pumps from carbed RX-7's. Since I didn't pull these pumps I don't know which fitting is which. One comes directly out of the end of the pump body and the other is perpendicular to the body. Also, which wire is positive? One wire is black (presumed to be ground?) and the other is black with a white stripe (positive?). Can someone with this swap elaborate?

Well, I bought into this idea of acetone. My vehicle averages 15-16 mpg depending on my right foot regardless of where I'm driving. On a road trip from Portsmouth, Va to Philadelphia, Pa (approximately 300 miles one way) I added 2 oz to about 13 gallons of fuel. At the next fill up (12.49g) I added nothing. The third fill up (13.1g) got 3 oz of acetone. The fourth (on the way home) got nothing. My results were as follows 1st (11.2 mpg), 2nd (16 mpg), 3rd (15.6 mpg), 4th ( I don't know). Why I don't know? My Land Rover (powered by a '96 chevy 4.3 F.I. Vortec V6) died, just died, about 150 miles from home at 11:30 PM and it was 3:30 before AAA got me home. Coincidence? I sure hope so. It could be a crankshaft sensor, rotor button, timing chain, broken camshaft, etc that took a dive. I don't feel I put enough acetone to cause trouble. I haven't had the time to look at the LR yet. I'm now driving my 240Z as temporary daily transportation. That won't last long because I don't want the miles or rain on her! Conclusion, the 11 mpg must have been a fluke but I can't put a finger on it. Otherwise, I didn't see any measurable difference in mileage, whether highway or city driving, with or without the acetone. Maybe more acetone was needed or the 4.3 is as efficent as it is going to get.

I'm dying too. The car reeks of fumes, especially if the window is open. I haven't gone through the vents, hoses and gaskets yet althought they appear to be in decent condition. A thought did occured to me about the exhaust tip. Ever notice that the tailpipes on similar shaped early vehicles (Ferrari, Jaguar, etc.) had the pipe coming out then curving up only to be turned out again? Maybe the european engineers realized this problem and moved the exhaust to better place it in the slipstream? It could be done on a Z and would look decent I think.

I'm gathering my CV conversion pieces for my 71 240z. I already have the CV side flanges, CV tulips (720 4x4) and the severed splined axle ends to serve as a reference for new axles. What I need now is one 300ZXT axle (outboard side indicated please) so I have both spline patterns for the machinist. It seems that custom axles are needed in most cases so someone might have a spare stock 300ZXT axle laying around? I'll be using Ross' companion flanges (possibly the billet pieces!) to complete the job. If someone has good outer 300ZXT CV joints they'd like to part with, or maybe a source, I'm in the market for these too.

That .080 difference amounts to over 5/64th inch overall diameter. If you were to overlay two circles to see the difference if is actually dramatic. There is a lot more material and hence more overall strength. The higher spline count spreads the loads applied and the depth of these splines is likely to be less the the 240Z version. That amounts to more metal, more thickness and more strength. In the old days, all slip joints were of heavy low number splines. There has been a consistant movement over thirty years towards more splines and shallower depths. The Nissan engineers performed a reasonable compromise to add strength without the need to completely fabricate a new stub axle, housing and related bearings/seals. It was also done within the constraints of the power plant installed from the factory. They weren't thinking outside the box to those wanting V8 power or other major modifications.

You've got to be very close or the assmebly wouldn't turn over at all. I'd recess the adapter as much as possible. On another note, what exactly is that protrusion on the joint for anyhow? Could it be machined or cut off? If it serves to keep the CV joint located mechanically (and the bolts just keep things together) then a recessed outer lip in the adapter would do the same thing. That is how my diff side flanges are made and the CV joint is flush across the face. What a minute, if you've got the LCA dropped to it's max extension then isn't the CV axle also fully extended? If that's the case then maybe the shaft is too short? Or maybe you need to reorient the cage to gain back the 3/8" length (assuming you've done this minor mod as recommended by Ross)? On my old land rover I used retention straps to prevent the rearend from dropping out to much and pulling the driveshaft apart while offroading. That might be an option. Lastly, is there any chance of the LCA actually being in it's extreme droop under any condition but a bodyjack?

While we're on the subject of CV conversions, could someone tell me if the spline count and shaft diameter are the same on the 280ZXT as the 300ZXT? In other words, would these tulips both fit properly on the same axleshaft? I'm using CV side flanges from a 86 720 4x4 front R180 on my NISMO LSD R180. It uses the same style tulip as the outer 280ZXT joint (except the conical protrusion isnt there). I'd like to use the 300ZXT outers because the flange is thinner and it would possibly allow more room for running a swaybar. I'll get off the rant and back to the question at hand. Has anyone got an answer for me?

Will post pictures for sure!

After reading the following thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90068 and confering with Tim240Z I've decided I can build my CV axles using all inner joints (tulips). Tim told me that the axles he built allowed the shafts to float (telescope) within both CV end assemblies. I'm going to fabricate a simple aluminum disc and nylon (or similiar material) button to insert inside the inner tulip which the shaft will ride against. A spring will be installed in the outer tulip which will preload that knuckle/cage forcing the axle inboard towards the diff. As wear occurs, hopefully over a LONG period of time, I can shim the button of the inner tulip to move the cage assembly outward into a new unworn area. Using the bolt-retained side flanges from the late 720 4x4 R180 front diff and adapters from Ross at MM for the 280Z stub axles makes this a very easy and effective CV conversion for my NISMO LSD R180 w/4.11 r&p in the 71 240Z! The axles should install without disassembly of the suspension too. No more thrashed U-joints. It doesn't get much easier than this! NOTE: The inner tulips and flanges on the late 720 4x4 R180 are the same as the 280zxt six bolt tulip.

I think you answered my question. Going by what you've decribed, maybe a spring could be installed in the outer tulip to accomplish that. Do the inner and outer CV tulips look the same? I should do a search and look at some pictures before I ask though....to late. The inner CV tulips I got with the R180A diffs look like a 280ZX joint (three distinct depressions where the bolts join the CV to the flange. These however are flat across the mounting face (do not have the conical extension as the 280ZXT units have). They are centered by a machined lip on the outer edge of the R180 flange.

I picked up a couple of 84-86 Nissan 720 4x4 front R180A differentials (4.11:1 open carrier) to procure the side flanges. These flanges are identical to the early R180 diffs including the use of a center retainer bolt except for one small thing, they are CV flanges! I haven't measured yet but have every reason to believe the bolt pattern is the same for the 280ZX CV tulips. Why go this route instead of a R200? For a couple of reasons, I have a NISMO LSD R180 with 4.11:1 r&p in excellent condition and this allows my to convert to CV without the hassle of procuring/fitting a LSD R200 with the same r&p. I also got the tulips with these R180A diffs (cut shaft). The outers CV joints were not the bolt-on type and were useless for my needs. I need only convert my outer companion flanges to CV to be close to finished. My choices are Ross' fine product or installing 280ZXT flanges as has been noted in other threads. All of the conversions I've seen attempt to work with stock length CV halfshafts which is the ideal path except the early halfshafts are not in great abundance. My idea is to have the CV joints in hand and get custom machined shafts. Now that I've gotten this far I have a question for the masses. Can the CV tulip joints (double slip effectively) be used at both ends or is there a concise reason why one end would be fixed while the other slipped?

Well, I might be in luck (which seldom happens) as my production date is 11/70. If that's the case then I'll have an extra set of knuckles for a series I owner when it comes time to change out tierods and balljoints. I have considered the shorter arms and may go that route when I install my WRX PS rack...all in due time, of course. Thanks to both of you.

Somewhere in the past, Datsun changed the balljoints/steering knuckles (the earlier units no longer available?). This requires replacing the steering knuckles or taper reaming the early knuckles to accept the later balljoint. That said, can someone tell me when that transition took place? I have a rotten 73 240Z I'm gutting for parts. I hope the knuckles I need for my 71 (11/70) are on these piece of junk.

I'm going to use the mini ATC fuse block offered by http://www.Centechwire.com as it is the approximate size of the original fuse block. A big plus to me is screw-type wire connections instead of slip-on blade connectors. I have a spare (read that burned up) fuse block that I'll remove the pigtails from and reconnect to the new FB. This new FB (p/n PDR-3) has only one fuse for the headlights. Since I'll be converting to high current relays for the lighting circuit there should be no problem.

I agree that camber plates are the ideal choice. That leaves you with a minimal amount of camber adjustment using plates, slots or using the smaller MSA urethane spacers that allow for camber changes without slotting the holes. All of that is based on coil springs, not coilovers. As for my idea, yes, toe corrections would need to be made. For a street driven car that amounts to one adjustment (I believe). For a race car that is excess work if continual changes are required to find an ideal setting for any given track. I'm merely brainstorming...

Here's a different look into the problem. Has anyone considered modifying the LCA to bolt or press in an adjustable balljoint like used on Hondas, etc? I will be looking into the possibility and feel that there is a real chance it can work. A pair of donor LCA's from another vehicle, a little plasma cutting, a little welding and voila...real camber adjustment. The only issue I see is finding a balljoint that matches height and taper of the installed Z piece. That should not be too hard a task....well maybe.

I have been reading through the many threads regarding the bumpsteer and camber problems related to lowering the vehicle. As the two are different beasts I'd like some thoughts on my brainstorming. With bumpsteer we can use strut spacers (simple and easy) or mod the LCA to orient the tierods to the LCA's. I'm thinking that the cross member could be modified to include slots and guide plates that would allow the use of camber bolts like those found in many late model suspensions (the 'D' bolt and offset washer design). The LCA could be reinforced to allow removing metal that might contact the crossmember. The crossmember could be modified and reinforced to prevent this contact as well. This would/could kill two birds with one stone depending on where the new slot bolt is located. The rear is a different story and would require a lot more work. With minimal space in the upper strut mount towers slotting the holes may not allow enough correction to warrant the work. Camber plates are only effective with coilovers which by their smaller diameter allow for more agressive changes.

Look up a website associated with obd1. You can jump out two pins on the ALDL connector and turn the key to run to pull codes. They are flashed three times per code such as dot dot 'pause dot dot dot (23). It will repeat three times and move on to the next code. You'll always get 55 which indicates that the distributor isn't rotating (engine off/key in run).

The fact that it trying to move leads to low fluid level possibilities. Post the codes once you can read them. I suspect that you are getting several DTC's due to the lack of smog equipment and transmission issues. If you continue to run the tranny with low levels you WILL smoke the bands and posssibly create other problems. I don't have a FSM here at work but the fluid quanity should be around 9-10 quarts , I think so don't quote me. There are a multitude of other problems associated with the 4L60E trans if it was built incorrectly or part(s) were left out. Look for the obivious first. Check the fluid level and ensure the electrical connector is plugged in properly (NEVER twist the connector coming off or going on)!

To run a 700R4 you'll need to reprogram the PCM to remove the transmission script so you don't get trouble codes. I did this to place a NV4500 5-speed behind my 1996 Chevy 4.3 (originally with a 4L60E). These codes can also affect how the engine actually runs. There is also the issue of mating the 700R4 to an LS1 where you might need a different or custom converter. That depends on the converter bolt pattern and the transmission input shaft. I ran into this problem when I wanted to put a 2000 4L60E (originally behind an LS1) behind my 1996 Chevy 4.3 (installed in my modified 1971 Land Rover). At a cost of $500, I chose to keep the NV4500 5-speed in place for now. You can run the 4L60E and install a TransGo shift kit to allow for manual gear selection. You WILL need to reprogram the LS1 PCM to remove the Torque Management Control if using the 4L60E with manual shift capabilities. I am using Chevrolet's standalone harness and PCM which comes without torque control or emissions. It is bare bones but still requires reprogramming to match tires and gearing, plus in fuel/timing changes you might want.

Ross, I plan to use the bolt-in style CV side flanges from a 720 4x4 R180A front diff to convert to the CV axles. I haven't pulled the diff yet but it appears that the bolt pattern (six bolts w/every two closely spaced). I'm thinking that the CV is the same that used on the 280ZXT, at least as far as bolt pattern goes. If so, then I need only your flanges to complete the transistion. Do you know the answer or can you supply the basic dimensions of the 280ZXT bolt pattern so I can determine this? The only other issue is shaft length and you say that can easily be fabricated by MM. Sooo close!