ezzzzzzz

You cannot weld sheetmetal with stick unless it is backed up with stainless or copper to prevent burn-through. It isn't worth even two seconds to try this. MIG and TIG rule in this arena....period. As for welders, The cheap offbrands are TOTAL CRAP for any use. Their performance is INFERIOR at best and consumables are nearly always hard to acquire. You will feel absolute frustration and incompetent when actually 90% of the problem is the equipment's fault. Fluxcore is intended for outdoor use in windy conditions where bottled gas flow can be disrupted. I use a Millermatic 175amp 220v unit. I wanted bigger but like the smaller gun for tight work. I ran a used Miller Cricket 70amp 110v for 10 years before it finally burned up from abuse and age. The Lincoln's are nice too but I prefer the metal pinch roller assembly of Miller over Lincoln's plastic. ESAB and Holbart are quality as well. You cannot go wrong with this investment and a good regulator/bottle set. Even a newbie can weld decent with good equipment and steady hand. The "made in China" crap should remain overseas. I know this thread got off on a different tangent because of the crossover subject. It's important to spend your money wisely on the equipment that really counts! That's why I felt the need to emphasize on it to Okimoto and any others with similar questions.

They would certainly help with lateral movement of the LCA. This affects the caster more than anything else. Movement of the suspension, back or forwards, would attribute to bumpsteer. If the stock bushings are in good condition then this would really be negliable except when smacking bumps, potholes or roadkill at speed. This specialized item would attribute more to transmitted noise and vibration than anything else on a street car. It is only one simple part of the whole that creates a complex mathmatical formula.

Referring to my previous post, bumpsteer is a change in toe setting as the tire moves from compression to droop. The affect (and the overall toe change) can be anywhere within this vertical movement. Let's say the inner tierod pivot points were exactly where the inner LCA points were located horizonally and vertically but physically forward of the LCA pivot point by 5". If the outer LCA balljoint and outer tierod were also in this identical relationship then both tierod and LCA would move in identical arcs from compression to droop. There would be no bumpsteer because the tierod would not move the tire inward or outward as the tire's vertical position shifted. This only applies when going straight! If the pivot points are not in the same plane both inner and outer and/or the distance between the pivots points is not identical, both inwards and outward, then the tierod will push or pull the tire (bumpsteer) even if the steering wheel is held stationary. The greater the differences in any of the three planes the greater the bumpsteer effect. Bumpsteer is typically greater to further you turn the wheels. You can measure this effect by checking the toe setting at static ride height, then jacking up the front so the tires are hanging freely and then with several good friends sitting on your nice straight hood to force the tires into the wheelwells. The toe will have gradually changed to some degree at the farthest most points. That is bumpsteer. The only way to minmize it is to get the car on an alignment rack, pull the springs, measure the existing bumpsteer and then start moving steering racks, relocating pivot points, etc. to find a sweet spot where it is negliable or gone completely going straight or turning right or left if you race on a particular track with only the applicable turns (think NASCAR). It isn't worth it for a street car and most track cars. Install spacers and expect alignment issues to become more prevalent as tires get wider and traction improves.

I'm struggling with this too. I have a spare crossmember that is ready to mod but wonder if it's worth it. The idea of the spacers is to relocate the steering knuckle back to it's original relationship with the LCA. It does not fix bumpsteer persay. A quick synopsis... the LCA moves through a given arc as it travels from full droop to full compression. The tierods also follow a given arc through this movement. No bumpsteer would exist IF these two arc followed the same path. Bumpsteer is when the tire is pulled in or pushed out by the tierod arc because it does not follow the LCA arc. It can be small or larger movement dependent on this arc relationship. There is bumpsteer in all stock cars to some degree. Modifications can increase the bumpsteer. Back to the spacers. Lowering the car moves the LCA into a more compressed postion. Bumpsteer is more apparent at the out edges of movement so you may have induced more bumpsteer in lowering. The spacers move the tierods down so they are now in a more neutral angle with the LCA and close to the factory setup. The question is how much spacer do you need. That is depedent upon how much the LCA moved from it's normal position. The lower the car the longer the spacer. The problem now is the tierod will probably contact the stock 14" wheel. Another option is bending the tierods straighter to account for the drop. That way well do more to eliminate bumpsteer than anything but it's an experiment at best. Do you bend, grind or put bigger wheels on? Your call here. Relocating the LVA pivot point is intended to recreate the factory drop angle of the LCA. Spacers would then not be required. Bumpsteer is not corrected by either method alone but the intent is to acheive the factory bumpsteer they deemed allowable. I run 17" wheels so I'll probably go with spacers to test the waters because it's just easier.

Those two are not the same wheels. ON3GO is correct about the use by BRE. My car was prepped (Not raced) by BRE according to a couple of sources and had these wheels. They do not have oval holes to fit a variety of bolt patterns as many knock offs did. The knock offs did not have the additional rib bracing either. It's like buying a a real Rolex or a knock off. Most can't tell the difference but you'll still know.

I thought I'd post this to conjure up some interest. If these are against the rules please delete it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7998703302&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

I installed Corvette manifolds in another hybrid project (not Z). It allows the exhaust to fit between 25" frame rails with 1/4"-3/8" clearance on either side. They can be had very reasonably and are stainless too! Just a thought.

Maybe I missed this in a prior post but I want to point out something critical. After all is said and done you MUST use a coolant specifically made for aluminium! If you run just any antifreeze the core will disolve from the inside out. It will take a while but it will happen using the wrong product. I've seen this on several vehicles including my Land Rover hybrid. I hated buying that second radiator after only four years.

I've cleaned up threads similarly to post #2. The only thing I would add is use a cutoff wheel to notch the threads about 1/2 way from the the leading thread so it will cut the damage from the strut tube. Notch it such that you create a cutting edge going into the strut tube. It is equivalent to a cheap tap or thread chaser. Take it very slow, with cutting oil, and back it up with each 1/16" to 1/8" turn to clear the threads and prevent galling. If it doesn't work you've lost nothing but the time to attempt it.

I snipe every auction. I decide my high bid and walk away. I win or lose...period. I use Esnipe. I learned long ago that sniping usually prevails. I despise early bidders that run the price up. I've seen many items go well above retail.

I have a new still-in-the-box reproduction center console for my '71 240Z. It is made from fiberglass and comes very close to the original in grain. Before I swap it out for my slightly damaged unit I thought I'd ask about interest in these. I was thinking that an ABS console could be mass produced at a local plastics company. It would look just like the original but be far more durable. I know it doesn't count for concourse but try to find an original in topnotch shape for any amount of money. If there is a real interest then I'll make the contacts to see what could be done and how much. I'll post a picture of these piece so you'll know the quality of the finished product.

I was testing the waters here. I also feel that a cat is a good addition. I have two from a 5.7 LS1 in garage. If one can support 2.85 liters at 170 hp then it should work fine in my 2.4 pushing 150 hp. All of my seals are new (although I question how tight the fit is). I will be dropping the gas tank to replace all of the vent hoses and using shrink tubing in place of the body grommets. I'll also be filling in any other holes I can locate throughout the rearend. There is no question that the stench is Nox from the exhaust and not raw petrol fumes. I just installed my Dellorto's and will fine tune them to reduce emissions too. On a side note, has anyone used plug wires that have straight boots at the distributor? The 90* boots just never look right fighting for position to the plugs.

Has anyone installed a convertor the reduce noxious fumes? I have run hi-flow units on late model vehicles with great success. The stench of rotten eggs only occurs with a mis-tuned overly rich fuel system. Just a thought.

As a side note, Dellorto's have a better cold start circuit that won't leak like the Webers. Dell's also have a small cover to gain access to the jets similar to the Webers. I don't understand the mention of disconnecting linkages and removing the top cover (assuming he meant the entire top plate). They can easily be balanced using a small gauge to monitor the hg with the turn of a screw. Alfa is very reasonable and efficient in shipping. He has a good selection of pieces too. Unfortunately, parts for most brands of sidedrafts are harder and harder to come by these days. Lastly, the Dell's were built for various specific applications. Only the DHLA is a true racing carb. It can be identified by the exposed A/F screw (not recessed). All others were drilled to create emission style models. These are identified as DHLA-D, DHLA-F, etc. You need to get the matching carbs to ensure smooth transition and equal fuel distribution in a dual or triple arrangement.

You can check runout with a dial indicator or an alignment shop can. Are you using the tires too? I mean are these the same tires/wheels from a non-running vehicle? It could be as simple as a flat spot in a tire. It could also be internal separation in the tire. If you rotate the wheels does the thump move?

Has anyone considered bolting the crossmember to a sturdy bench, cutting the center section out to either side of the LCA pivots and relocating the entire center assembly upwards? Only the motor mounts would need to be reworked then. I understand that understeer is built into every car for the masses. It is done because natural reaction is to steer tighter into a curve when losing traction. I prefer a neutral feel myself and have move rear leaf spring mounting points to acheive this in applicable vehicles.

I was wondering if anyone has done this. When the LCA pivot point is moved up shouldn't the rack should also be to eliminate bumpsteer due to angular differences? I've got a spare crossmember that I will mod to correct the LCA angle. I know that bumpsteer should be calculated prior to lowering (too late..damn it) so a reference is there. I was thinking of cutting off and raising the rack mounts too. Input? Flames?

Pepboys sells a generic strut boot with the bumpstop in the box. It is a two-piece item (Monroe?). You can leave the boot off if desired. I prefer the KYB one-piece but they weren't available when I needed them.

On lowered cars, the trick is to drive up on 2x8's to gain ground clearance. You can cut the ends in a wedge shape and stack to get more clearance too.

Stop by any local auto dealer and get the name of the Snap-On or Matco supply guy. Anyone in the service shop will be able to help you. Both companies sell tap extractors. Once you've got the tool the extraction should be easy. If you've damaged the hole trying to remove the tap it may be a bit more difficult. I've used snap ring pliers on either side of the tap to twist it back out with success too. Heat the manifold with a torch (propane) at little too if you have to. The aluminum will expand faster than the steel to help loosen things.

7 HP Speedaire 120 gallon SayerBeale horizonal tank. I can run anything including multiple tools without ANY problem....overkill is usually just enough! It was built for about $900 (used tank bought at auction).

Looks can be decieving. There must be an offset or Nissan would have chosen the cheaper production route (one part verses two).

I feel I must insert my two cents worth here. While Sanderson is a well known brand of headers I had only the worse experience with them. I purchased a set of block huggers for a '96 4.3 Vortec V6. This engine was bone stock and using a stock ECM. In only several months the headers had blown out where the primaries come together. These were also ceramic coated. The metal was so thin that attempting to wlre weld proved impossible probably due to the coating as well. A call placed to Sanderson was met with insolance and insult. They immediately said my engine was running too lean causing the headers to burn through. Fuel pressure flucuated between 55-60 psi in all conditions and the fuel trims were dead on per GM specs. They offered no compromise and said I needed to purchase another set of $400 headers! Fat chance of that and NEVER AGAIN from them! I modified stock s/s tubular manifolds (a few cuts and some tig) to build a new exhaust system. That was five years ago and I've never had another problem since. It's unfortunate that a company built on quality would grow big enough to resign to it's own indifference in customer satifaction. Every customer should count regardless of buying power and shear numbers.

You could locate a hydraulic supply company or a rubber and hose supply company in your area (usually the industrial parks). The pieces that http://www.summitracing.com and http://www.jegs.com sell are usually Earl's or Russell. Both are high quality. Be sure to get the right material for the job (E.G. steel in brake lines). Don't put your life on the line for fancy anodized aluminum pieces. I understand the reluctance to spend $$ on small parts but somtimes you just have to. Try doing a web search on 'AN fittings' to see a whole lot of sources. Most will be selling the same namebrand/item. Just look for the best deal. You might try calling these places for better info.

I'm not familiar with Mikunis but suspect that the cold start circuit is possibly leaking. This would also affect idle richness which no amount of tuning would compensate for. Fuel would drip into the venturi area and vaporize causing this gashouse affect. Webers are notorious for this problem so I've heard many times..