Phyxius

Has anyone heard of the 'XTD' racing clutches that are being sold on ebay? The page claims it can hold up to 450hp, but it only costs about 200 shipped. I'm tending to be a little skeptical here. Anyone have any experience with these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/81-89-300ZX-280ZX-XTD-RACING-CLUTCH-KIT_W0QQitemZ7985769614QQcategoryZ33730QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

i'm pretty sure...that like Tony said, it will RUN with the stock setup...but you may or may not be able to get a 'good' total advance out of it...

Would it be possible to use a flex plate from an auto and add the friction surfaces? This sounds much lighter, and it would open up more clutch diameter options. My only concern would be that flex plates aren't meant to take the strain of a flywheel...

I just hooked it up the same as the 82-83 dizzy and set the trigger angle... I don't think that I even had to advance it all the way. I had a lot of problems getting the car started when I first got the MS. It turned out that I had a burned circuit in my relay board. It's been a while since I did it, so I don't remember all the details. How can I check how far it will actually advance?

I don't know why, but I've been able to run my 81 cas for quite a while now without the advance restrictions that others have run into. I've been running with a trigger angle of 76 degrees with the timing dead on at idle.

For fuel mileage, how lean is it safe to go on a turbocharged motor at highway speeds?...say 2000-2500 RPM under light throttle? just for cruising sake...

That's what I was thinking. You want the pressure differential (not the fuel pressure) between the manifold and the fuel injector to be constant. I was thinking that something like an 8:1 would just make it harder to tune and be unnecessary.

If I have a megasquirt system, do I really need anything other than a 1:1 fpr? I've read in several places where people say that the other's are just a band-aid type fix for the lack of a good fuel management system. A little background: I've completed my turbo, intercooler, and megasquirt upgrades, and now I'm looking at the fuel system. I have a pallnet fuel rail (not installed), walbro 255lph pump and am going to be using either 460cc or 570cc fuel injectors. I'm leaning towards the 570's. edit: I can't seem to change the An grammar error in the title...that bothers me...lol

I have a hard time believing that will fit in a zx, too. The aluminumized steel one i had built had to go nearly straight down and then straight back to clear the tranny and firewall. Also, what about guys with turbo upgrades? I know for sure that would never bolt up to my turbo outlet.

i could see this being somewhat possible with an automatic...because of the converter...but not a manual...

if you want to control spark with the megasquirt, then you must have some sort of crank trigger. Otherwise, you can run a normal dizzy and the MS will know when to inject by the tachometer input.

okay...i found a small boost leak and fixed it. Now the sound is worse. I read somewhere that a strange sound is common after installing a fmic due to all the piping, but this is still worrying me... I'll try to record it tonight if I can.

i found this on the ACT website: http://www.advancedclutch.com/proveit/clutch101/clutch101-benefits.asp I do not believe their mathmatics are entirely sound, but I think that the ideas are. I did some numbers for an average z car clutch using a 1800lbf pp and .25 coeff of friction and came up with a torque capacity of about 400 ft-lb. That seams a little high to me, but I'm sure the coeff of friction and pp numbers do not exactly match what the z car clutch's characteristics are. I think there should be a few more factors in the equation to take into account the speed differential between the motor and the tranny and heat effects. Those would probably make it somewhat more accurate. However, I can't see any way around adding a plate and at least nearly doubling the torque capacity. There is still the problem of the added clutch weight making the syncros wear out faster...I havent quite figured out how to get around that one yet....shift slower maybe...lol...or be prepared to change out syncros regularly. You could go with an unsprung disc to cut down on weight, but that is a hit on streetability..although not a big one. I ran a solid disc in my vw for years without and ill effects. I believe that chatter can be addressed with a few light springs in key locations to help keep everything seperated when the clutch is disengaged... I'll have to think some more on this though.

that's more along the lines of what i was thinking

i have no doubt that there are clutches out there that can hold the power, but i don't want to break the bank trying to get one...

i'm at about 250 right now, but i hope to making about 400 soon.

well...this is why i posted on here before i actually tried it... appearantly i had several misconceptions about dual disc clutches... thanks for the info... I see what you are saying about using the stock pressure plate. It will only produce so much force, and even though I may double the surface area, I've halved the pressure between the clutch and mating surface. It's impossible to tell if the torque capacity would increase or decrease without some solid numbers. If I had some standard coeff. of friction numbers for the clutch material vs. mating surfaces, I could come up with some solid numbers as to what force would be required by the pressure plate to create the necessary torque capacity for a given motor... The reason that I was considering this is because I haven't been impressed with the power that most aftermarket single discs can handle reliably. Not to mention the cost you pay for a quality unit. Having reached the limits of the stock clutch, I was hoping to find a cost effective, reliable solution to this problem.

my idea was to use the smaller L series flywheel and clutch...9" i think it is... I always thought the idea was to have a more streetable clutch that could hold as much power as the metalic ones without the wear and tear, grabbiness, etc.

it would have to be balanced, no doubt....

I don't know about the special flywheel thing. I've never seen one in person. You could mill the entire flywheel to a thinner version to offset the distance that the pp now goes into the bellhousing... If you were really concerned about securing it, you could drill and tap extra holes in the flywheel or even make some dovetail type slots in the flywheel and pp for some pins or something... I've been trying to figure out what kind of steel you would want to use...and where you could get it cheaply...i'm thinking a 1000 series steel would probably work...

I've been thinking about this a great deal. I think it would be possible to build your own 2(or 3) disc clutch pack with some basic machining equipment, some longer pp bolts, a stock pp and 2 clutch discs. You would need to machine a plate of steel the diameter of the flywheel with a nice big lightening hole in the center. In order to keep this plate rotating with the flywheel, you could make holes that match the pp bolt pattern approximately 1.5 cm in diameter. You would have a set of spacers of a SLIGHTLY smaller diameter for the center plate to ride on. These spacers would allow the longer pp bolts to go through the center and into the flywheel while also holding the pressure plate in the right position. You would also need to machine part of the splines off of one or possibly both of the clutches so that splined parts wouldn't hit each other. You would probably also have to have one of the shorter throwout bearings...i know i've seen pictures of them somewhere.... The best that i can figure, this entire thing would set the pp into the tranny an extra .25-.5". I don't know if that would clear the bell housing or not. It may have to be clearanced as well. This could be expanded to 3 discs by adding another steel plate and clutch disc Anyone think this is a good idea? or am I way off base?

okay...i think i fixed the slow spooling problem...it was infact the wastegate. It still makes that sound though...but it doesnt do it on every shift under boost. It also doesn't seem to matter if it's 1 or 10 psi, it will still do it randomly. I've notice that with the new install, my bov sounds sharper than it used to. Maybe there is a connection.

yeah, i was thinking of that, but it doesn't really explain the surging sound

I just finished my new fmic install, and I'm having some problems. The turbo is much slower to spool, and when I shift i get a single "BRRWAAA" type sound. I'm running a greddy type-s bov, and it worked fine before I put the new intercooler in. So I'm wondering if it is a boost leak or something else. I did mount the bov nearly upside down in this setup. I don't know if that would affect its performance or not. It doesn't seem like it should. I did have to move the compressor housing and therefore the wastegate actuator. I wonder if i need to re-adjust the arm. I'm using a t3/t4 hybrid, so the setup is not stock.

Epoxy could work. From my experience though, it can be brittle when it sets. I don't know how it would like the vibrations of the engine bay. It's worth a shot before spending a whole lot of money. I still want to learn to TIG weld though.