Phyxius

It seems that what I thought was an injector problem may turn out to be a computer problem. Yesterday, the injectors were staying open after the engine stopped (key still on), flooding the motor. Today, with the motor off (key still on), the computer continously sends the spark signal at about 3 times a second. When i try to hook my laptop up to it in the car, it won't connect. I can hook the ms up to the stim board, and I can connect to it, and it seems to operate normally. My only thought is that there is something wrong with the relay board and associated wiring, but i can't find anything wrong... any thoughts or ideas?

I think i'm in the same boat. I just installed some injectors that I fought with for 2 days, and today I replaced the struts. Went into town to get some things, and for some reason, 3 of the injectors started freaking out. I was stranded at o'rielly's for about 2 hours...i don't know what's going on

my thermostat housing has a couple plugs in it which i assume are covering extra holes. Does yours not have this? (I wouldn't know, because I've only seen my motor) Also, I've been considering getting rid of the TB line since I don't use the fast idle valve anymore anyway. That would provide an extra port if you were willing to sacrifice it.

Problem solved. It was a case of 'the PO was a moron'. There was a rubber vacuum port block off jammed in the return line. When i first got the car, there was a 3/8 socket hose clamped to the return line as well. I removed that, but had no idea there was something inside the line. No wonder my old pump used to scream so loud!

I'll try that...but all i have is a manual air pump... What do you think about the fpr?

the gas cap that I got is the oem one, so i would assume it is what is supposed to be there?

another update... With the new gauge and the gascap screwed on tight and unscrewed, it makes 80psi while running and holds at about 38psi when off...

something that is gaining popularity is plates that confuse cops...such as B8B88B8 or 55S5SS5...from anything more than 10 feet away, all of those blend together and makes it nearly impossible to tell what it says... of course this isn't likely to gain you any sympathy if you get pulled over...

what a sexy car....oh...there's a girl there too...lol

a little update... I changed out my fpr to another stock one...but the pressur still goes way past 60 when the motor is "running"...the differenc is, that with the old fpr, the pressure would drop to 0 after the pump was turned off. Now, with the newer stock one, the pressure falls to about 38 and stays there (according to the gauge). I bought another gauge from lowes, but I didn't get one of the fittings I need. I'll have to go back this afternoon for that so I can make sure the fuel rail gauge is working propely. *EDIT* It would make sense to me that the return line was clogged, but I know it's not because i unwittingly spilled about a gallon of fuel when I unhooked it. It was syphoning itself out while i was working on the fuel rail... Hmm...another thought... I recently got a new gas cap, and everytime i take it off now, a lot of air comes out like it was under high pressure. Could this prevent the fuel from re-entering the tank like it should?

i like it for the fact that it helps transfer weight to the rear for launches, but other than that, it's somewhat embarrasing when it looks like you are hunting for racoons

that is severly flawed...you will never get an accurate reading because it doesn't take momentum into account. Without some type of damping, the initial movement will go way too far (ie: when you hit the gas, the thing will probably hit the roof...and there's no way you are accelerating over 4g's in a street z), then it will swing back and forth so much that you can't get an accurate measurement.

only type of tester i have is a compression tester... just by bending the 'to' line, i can make the gauge go up to about 5-9 psi... *EDIT* Just to clarify, I have the line from the fuel rail going to the port on the side of the fpr, and the return line is attached to the 90* bent port coming from the bottom of the fpr.

I found the hissing...it was actually a torn injector-manifold seal. That is fixed, but the gauge still hits the 0 pin on the wrong side. I'm definitely missing on 1 cylinder, and it won't idle. I suspect either the fuel pressure really is that high, or i need to do some tweeking on my MS...

okay, I got some #6 o-rings from the local hardware store, and they went in much more nicely. Everything seems to seal up fine, but I've run into another problem. The fuel pressure gauge spins all the way around past 60psi, and the rail makes a hissing noise. I did tinker with the screw in the bottom of it some, but I tried to put it back where it was when I got it. You guys think i messed up the gauge, or is the (stock)fpr malfunctioning?

ok...everyone says it squats because of the semi-trailing arms...but what exactly is it about them that makes it squat?

best of luck. Mine is still working well...

This fuel rail/injector job turned out to be more trouble than I thought... I've managed to tear some of the o-rings on my injectors trying to get them into the fuel rail. Is there a trick to getting them in without tearing? I tried lubing the o-rings with vegetable oil, but it didn't really work. Also, I'm using the 460cc rx-7 injectors without the pintle caps. The stock injector seals don't really fit right, and the old rx-7 ones won't either without the pintle caps. With the stock 280 seals, there is room to move the injector up and down between the fuel rail and manifold. If I stack the rx-7 seals on top of the stock seals, the room goes away, and it fits tight. Will this work, or will I be leaking fuel under boost? thanks in advance... i know you guys get tired of my silly questions...

It is possible that your wastegate can't flow enough at high rpm's to limit the compressor output. If this were the case, it would seem more steady at higher boost levels because less exhaust gas would have to go through the wastegate to maintian those boost levels... or maybe I'm way off base, but that was my first thought...

Oddly, they did not recommend a break in period. ACT has a similar clutch and they claim all you need is a few nice slips with this material, so that's what I did. I haven't had any slippage yet, and I've been full throttle in the power band in every gear except 5th.

update: After driving around town for a good while, it has gotten just a little 'grabbier'. It's still not unmanagable or on/off like I was afraid it would be. Once it gets hot, it will chatter a little if you aren't careful.

how about a device that engages all 4 brakes when you flip a hidden switch?

it's a '97... do these fit into that category?