Phyxius

my problem with going 2.5" is that it is a lot cheaper to go 3". There are less couplers and such, and 3" pipe is less expensive on ebay than 2.5"

inlets on the IC are 3" It is a monster. The store I bought my turbo from recommended 3" pipes for 400+ hp.

My goal in the end is 450hp. Right now, I'm a shade over 200. I've got a nice aftermarket turbo and I'm megasquirted. I've got new injectors and this new intercooler to install. I'm hoping with these 2 mods i can get up to 300.

I was wondering if any of you who have installed intercoolers have noticed an increase in turbo lag as the piping size increases, and how bad the lag increased. I'm specifically interested in 2.5" and 3".

I have a T3/T4E 60 trim with a stage III exhaust wheel. I haven't any complaints about it, and it should be good to 20+psi. Of course, when upgrading over the stock turbo you should expect to gain some spool time.

The MAP sensor that comes with MS now can support about 21psi. you can purchase 3 and 4 bar sensors now i think which should take it way beyond what you will ever use. You can save as many maps as you can fit on your laptop. All you have to do is plug in the laptop and load the new settings file. WB02 is good, but not absolutely necessary. I would recommend it and an EGT gauge if you are going to be running anything above 15psi. [iMHO] Any tuner worth his salt should be able to take a look at MS and figure out how to tune it in no time. From what I understand, the setup is pretty similar to other stand-alone units. As long as you start off slow and safe and work the tune to a good performance level, you'll be fine. The key is to read all the info you can and understand as much of it as possible. There are plenty here willing to help out with any questions. If in the end you decide you are too afraid to do it youself, pay someone to do it on a dyno. I had no tuning experience when I started about a month ago, and I haven't blown anything up yet. I dont have a WB02 either. My main suggestion would be to make sure everything in the fuel, ignition, and motor is up to par. In my case, a bad coil caused headaches for 2 weeks. I was looking for the problem in MS the whole time when the problem was that the coil was wearing out. No matter what kind of stand-alone unit you get, you'll run into the same problems if everything else isn't ready for it.

I haven't seen this posted, so I thought I would ask. What is the advantage of using a HEI module over the stock Nissan module? Is it simply a cost effectiveness thing, or does the HEI module add some measure of upgrade to the ignition system?

I finally got it working right. I had to remove the pull-up resistor on the trigger circuit, and since i'm not using a tps, i had to set flood clear to 255. After I got that worked out, I was having problems making it go above 4000rpm. After dealing with that for 2 weeks, i finally replaced the coil and all is well.

I think the FIDLE and ignition circuit are working fine...my current thought is that i'm not getting a good CAS signal. The BW wire in the CAS harness has power, and the ground grounds.

i've upgraded to 21u and still no luck...

Yes, I'm using the 81 cas. I haven't done either of the total advance changes. I was just trying to get it set up to run at about 5* of advance. I was gonna do the other mods after i got it running. I'm using the MSnS-extra code. I don't necessarily get a spark on start up, only when I turn the key off or otherwise power down the unit. I would try the 82-83 cas if i had one. I tested the Q5 transistor and it seems to work as it is supposed to. It seems like it is something internal to the MS though because the stimulator doesnt show the FIDLE led flashing, but the middle LED on the MS board flashes like it is firing. I'm using the 020i9 version. Could this be the problem?

ok, I've got that part right. what about the triggering on power down and such?

I have about finished my MSnS installation on my 81 turbo motor, but I am having some problems with the ignition aspect. My first question relates to the info on the MSnS-extra page that states that I can use the oem trigger position in a next-cylinder setup. How do I do this? Is it simply a matter of setting the trigger angle to 120-the oem trigger point? Second, I haven't been able to get the coil to fire when cranking. It will fire sometimes when I turn the key off. This doesnt make much sense to me. I have it set up exactly as it is shown in moby's installation guide with the 4 pin HEI module. XG1 is jumpered to XG2 and D8 is shorted out. The middle LED seems to indicate that the firing signal is being sent, but the FIDLE light on the stim isnt flashing and the coil isn't firing. when I unplug the stimulator (same thing as turning the key off), the FIDLE light will flash momentarily indicating a recieved trigger command... Also, I am unclear on how to jumper the FIDLE relay block on the relay board. Which terminal is the IDL and which is FIDLE? I think I have it setup correctly, but i'm not sure. The one closest to the DB37 terminal should be connected to the one closest to the connector blocks? Any help would be great.

MS can't be used in coil-on-plug applications... I'm in the process of hooking mine up now

thanks a lot guys

Can I use megasquirt with the crank angle sensor on the 81zxt? I've searched extensively and havent been able to find a direct answer. I know the 82-83 turbo dizzy's work, but I was hoping not to have to do all that. It would seem to me that if you can use any zxt computer with the 81 cas, then it should put out the same signal as the 82-83 dizzy. But I don't know.

I have a nice L28ET setup right now, but I was looking at this motor for my other car. The price i found it for was $700 on ebay. From what I've read, you can't really mod it without messing up the intake and exhaust tuning pretty badly...it supposedly has a variable geometry intake manifold and VVL. I'm sure you could just turbo the hell out of it and be fine though, but I've decided to go another route

I was curious as to how these motors physically compare. ie: rods, crank, pistons, head. Since it has vvl, I assume the head is or is similar to the RB26DETT head. Is this correct? I may have found a good deal on a RB25DE and am wondering if it would be worth it to convert it to a DET. Since I'd probably get new rods and pistons anyway, I don't think that part would matter much. What is a good price to pay for such a motor?

starkville. Looks like you are there too

I'd like to have it, but i live in mississippi.

oh yeah...the fuse box is on the passenger kick panel

Can you hear the fuel pump running at all? If it were me, this is what I'd do. First, I'd check the fuel pump. I'd disconnect the line from the fuel rail and put it into some type of container to catch anything that may get pumped out. Then I'd connect a 12V source directly to the pump. If it starts pumping and fuel comes out there is probably a bad relay or faulty wiring. If it starts pumping and nothing comes out, then you probably have something clogged and should clean the entire system. If it doesnt do anything, you probably need a new pump. I believe there are 3 or 4 relays dealing with the fuel pump on a turbo car. One or two under the hood in one of the relay boxes, one behind the glove box and one above the computer. A haynes manual will point out the exact locations, and is well worth the $20 investment.

I've done this several times before, but not lately....I'll try it again. I've recently changed the cap, plug wires, and plugs, so that shouldnt be a problem. And i replaced the thermostat last april.

I've ran a search and have not been able to find a case quite like this one, so here goes: I have a 280zxt with a freshly rebuilt motor and a new turbo. Sometimes when I first crank it, it's missing on one...sometimes two cylinders. If I make it boost, it stutters for a few seconds and then seems to clear up with a large cloud of greyish-black smoke. It smells really rich most of the time. My thought was that maybe I have a leaking injector or two, or maybe some valve seals are bad. It doesnt always miss on startup, just after it's sat a while. Rain seems to make it worse, but this could be just me. The car never really idles where it is supposed to. Sometimes after a hard run, the RPMs will go from 500-1200 several times before smoothing out in the range of 8-1000. I believe these motors are supposed to idle at about 650rpm. It also likes to buck when going from no throttle to some throttle. My guess here is something to do with deceleration enrichment? I don't know if this is related, but since it has gotten cold here, the temp gauge rarely goes into the 'normal' range. It operated fine during the warmer months. Any ideas?

136mm