Phyxius

yeah...i agree, but it's good to get other peoples' ideas about how to do things with the setup. I think the reason most people don't follow through is because it is pretty hard to find just a head with all the necessary components for a reasonable price.

I remember reading in a thread a while back about someone who has forged pistons for another motor modified somehow to fit in the L-28 series. I can't find the thread, so I was wondering... Does anyone has more info on what pistons those are and what has to be done to them?

no particular reason.... i was just wondering if it were feasible

is it possible to bore cylinders with a hone? yes, i realize paying someone to do it isn't that expensive... No, i'm not building an engine atm....these are just things i've been wondering about

I was talking about more dispacement in stock form. To get an RB30 with another head and install it in a z would probably take nearly $10k. If this method works it should cost less than a quarter of that at MOST. I'm hoping to do it for less that a tenth of that. $1000 for all the advantages of an RB doesn't sound too bad to me. Keep in mind, most of us are in the US and RB's of any sort are much less common here.

Is this possible assuming the pin height makes the piston farther from the head? I can't think of why it wouldn't. The swept volume would be the same, so shouldn't the compression ratio be the same? I have to be way off base or something...i know i'm not the first to think of this.

From what I've been able to find so far, the RB25 head has a 63cc combustion chamber on the head. I'm not sure if the RB20/26's are the same or not. That is large, and would require the use of flat top pistons to get a compression of about 7.5:1. That is about what the turbo motors are stock anyway, so it's not that big of a deal. If you wanted a higher compression, you could always mill the head or use dome pistons (which i've heard is bad for combustion chamber geometry).

easier...maybe...but this route certainly has the potential to be less expensive with more displacement.

I've found a guy that is going to sell me a RB26 head complete with valvetrain for about 325$ including shipping. how is the belt gear for the pump driven, and what kind of belt is it? Is it directly from the crankshaft, or some other method. You would definitley only want to use a cogged belt.

that's interesting... so the front and rears from the altima work for the front and rears for the 280zx?

my old 4 speed started making a ticking noise like you describe, but it was constant...louder in higher gears than the lower ones... turns out i'd chipped several teeth off of several gears...

okay...I'm trying to go to the dyno tomorrow, and I have this problem...so I really need some quick help. Initially, the car would start to stumble around 3500rpm and fall flat on it's face at 4000rpm under boost. At no boost, it will rev to redline fine. I regapped the new spark plugs to .035 (they were .040), and it delayed both events about 500rpm. This is all going on with a wideband sensor in the car, so I'm pretty sure it's not running too lean, or too rich. So far, I've checked the wires...max resistance was 18k ohm. I cleaned the dizzy cap and rotor, swapped the coil to another that I know is good, and switched from the HEI module back to the nissan module. The plugs are brand new, and all look fine. My advance map doesn't do anything out of the ordinary in that range. I'm all out of ideas. Any help would be great.

I meant to add that I don't think my MAT sensor is working right. I have the open element sensor, but it never rises more than a few degrees when on boost, and it's slow to do that. As far as accel enrichment goes, I have it turned off in boost. It was tuned fine before the new injectors. I was hoping to only have to change the required pw, but that doesnt seem to be the case.

i tried using your numbers for the head temp sensor, and calibrating in myself, but i can't seem to get it to work right. It never goes past 80*, and I've tried 2 different sensors...

I've been trying to tune with my new injectors, but it's turning out to be quite a pain. I get a bad stumble around 3500-4000 rpms at about 140-160kpa. If I stay in the throttle, it will start to backfire. I've tried leaning and richening to see what happens. Leaning seems to help more than richening, but I'm afraid to go too lean under boost. I don't really trust my current O2 sensor, though It stays around .7v in boost. You guys think I'm that rich, or should I suspect something else?

well...i don't know what i did, but it's fixed... Personally, I think the car is posessed. It turns out the injectors nor coil were firing. I still think it was something with the crank trigger...

hey guys... For some reason, my MS has stopped sending the spark command all together...when installed in the car... It will do fine on the stim board...so I'm thinking maybe something is wrong with the trigger signal? Will the fidle light in megatune turn on if the coil isnt firing but the trigger signal is being sent?

Don't give up just yet. This is a lot to jump into on your first swap. You'll get comfortable with it. I'm a firm believer that the simplest solution is the most likely. After nearly a year of dealing with my megasquirt, I've found that the problem rarely lies with the computer itself, but usually with the associated wiring or sensors. It sounds like you may be getting an intermittent contact somewhere, or your MAP sensor line may be leaking. You may also want to check your fuel pressure. Aslo, it looks like that even though you have an o2 sensor, you don't have MS configured to take it into account. Under "Fuel Tables 1+3: Exhaust Gas Settings", you have the o2 correction set to only occur above 6000rpm. A more reasonable setting is somewhere between 1300-1700 rpm. I hope this helps!

I have my soft limit set at 6450 and my hard limit at 6750. I usually shift before then, though. It's just a safety thing. For timing retard, I use 10 degrees and a max time of 5 seconds. Don't forget that there are more options dealing with the hard cut aspect under "General:hard cut/limiter type".

I believe water injection can increase compression ratio, although I'm not sure that you wouldn't lose more power vaporizing the water than you gained from the extra compression. Someone more knowledgable on the subject could probably help.

mine has 2 posts as well, but there is one that doesn't have anything on it...that's the one you put the + wire on.

the ground wire on my motor goes on one of the bolts that holds the starter to the transmission. The + wire goes on the nut on the solenoid without anything else on it... and the yellow wire goes on the tab that sticks out. I have to get a new starter about every other month....i'm not really sure why...

should I be able to make rpm's go all the way to 0 with the stim board? I can only get it to go down to 87...

That wouldn't explain the fact that it won't connect to my laptop in the car. I don't know what to think...all i know is that it's way too hot outside during the day to mess with it...lol