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motomanmike

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Everything posted by motomanmike

  1. Everythings a compromise. Hey its like a rainy spring day today here, very odd weather. At least you'll have your cars.
  2. All i want to know is why people are so scared to be a Redneck?
  3. I haven't installed mine yet but am in the process of tearing one of my cars down for the same thing. I can say the T3 camber plates are very thick and the quality looks good.
  4. Looks like he's got his eye on the finish line with this one. Clean underside, gives me some motivation
  5. My 73 weights 2506 weighted on the scale at US 13 dragway and the DOT truck scale nearby. Both with a half tank of fuel, both weights within 10lbs of eachother. Other weight was 2516. L28ET swap, T5 trans, R200 Rear 15"aluminum wheels Stock interior, aluminum radiator, intercooler, exhaust also does have a muffler on it (pretty dang heavy one), agm group 24 battery. Stock body no mods or flares etc, no cage or roll bar. I wish I had weighed it right when I bought it.
  6. The reason I have 2 Z cars, I can drive one of them 99% of the time. It still doesn't help the situation much. I really don't want to have to buy Koni I was matching the same setup to all the cars i've driven and this was the best IMO
  7. Not sure how that lasted so long in the "tech" section but it did. None the less i'll wait to see if they re surface. If not i'll find something to work, had my mind set on tokico's though. Not doing Konis I already ordered my springs
  8. Well guys, i've been waiting to do coil overs on my car for awhile now and just am getting to the point of being able to order everything. I the ground control kit from Gabe at T3 and come to find out there is no registered distributor in the US at the moment for Tokico. Hitachi had it and its all up in the air right now so until it gets ironed out they will continue to be on back order unless someone has them already on the shelf (very unlikely). So if any of you hear when they are back to shipping them out let me know. I don't want to place an order until I hear they are. Thought you guys might find it useful.
  9. Just with a downpipe does sound pretty wicked at WOT though. I like that my car is quiet now. I rode around with straight 3 inch all the way back all this past year and recently put my muffler back on. I won't be taking it back off. That drone at 65 was horrible. In addition these cars attract enough attention both good and bad so I feel better not adding to the bad attention I might possibly attract.
  10. I'm having a little better luck with the closed loop. I drove the car probably 2 hours today and it is responding well and man I see why people let turing the dial up get the best of them. With the additional boost this thing rips pretty good. I actually like that the boost rolls on later. It drives pretty much like an NA car until I roll into it pretty hard and seems to be cycling the turbo less. I'll keep playing with it but i'm certainly glad the inputs i'm making are controllable and not feeling like the rear is going to fall out on the highway from the boost cut hitting, It holds at target the whole time on spirited runs. I'll just keep playing with how fast I like it to get there.
  11. I swapped actuators tonight and all seems happy happy. The old one had a rather notchy abrupt movement to it but wasn't leaking. I have my settings on closed loop now. I got it working ok on open loop and switched over to closed loop. I only hit the boost cut once tonight on a very aggressive run shifting from 3rd to 4th. Otherwise it would spool up and hover right around 165kpa which is pretty close to what I want. It doesn't roll on as fast as i'd like but its working right. Also, i'm not sure whether it made the difference or not but the stock turbos have 2 ports on them that T into 1 port then runs to the actuator. I've blocked the lowest port on the turbo compressor housing and just have the top port going to the boost solenoid. I changed alot at once but at least its to a point i can spend some time smoothing it out. Thanks guys.
  12. I'll probably get to work on it this coming weekend. Time is very limited during the week. Bloz up i don't know where you find the time to do everything you build but i'd sure like to have some of it LOL. I certainly enjoy the build threads.
  13. Yeah I didn't do much on closed loop. I tried to see if it worked over the weekend but have focused totally on open loop duty cycles.
  14. I've been doing 4th gear pulls from about 3500rpm. I got it to hit my desired mark (165kpa) on my way home from work and it was consistent but it won't hold it. Just falls back to stock (wastegate spring boost around 145kpa) Making changes trying to compensate for the sag I get just boost runaway is the best way to describe it, it climbs very fast almost like the wastegate stuck shut. I know the wastegate isn't stuck it moves freely no bind but it might be a bad actuator maybe? I'm going to heed your advice because ms seems to be doing what it should other than tunerstudio acting up on closed loop. Thanks for the reply.
  15. Last week I got my board ready to run a solenoid to control boost through MS2. I'm running a stock L28ET, 400cc injectors, stock turbo with an intercooler. I'm trying to tune the Open Loop Solenoid is from DIY Have the frequency set at 19.5hz as recommended by DIY Have controller interval at 20ms Inverted, Closed duty=0 Open duty =100% When I lower the duty boost increases as all the MS writes ups recommend. What I can't get dialed in is the holding higher boost. I want to run 10lbs. My problem is no matter what I put in the Duty cycle map I either overshoot and hit the boost cut, or I don't make any more boost than stock. Its like that initial spool I can't get it to react to bring it back in check and it over boosts. Granted i'm just now experimenting with this but I burnt about 10 gallons of fuel over the weekend trying to get it tuned somewhat to where I want. I've read the MS2 manual for setting it all up. I've trolled alot of forums, miata forums especially. I've experimented with the closed loop but it has even more settings that affect eachother and everyone seems to lean towards tuning the open loop first. I also experienced quite a bit of noise trying to use the closed loop. Tunerstudio would almost pause, then regain speed, pause but only on open loop. Anyone have some resources they can point me in the direction of that maybe would give a base line to start at? Maybe a base duty cycle map for reference? I appreciate any input you can give me
  16. motomanmike

    OC Cruisin 2013

    Some of the pics we took today
  17. motomanmike

    IMG 3198

    From the album: OC Cruisin 2013

    Love the 510 in the side mirror
  18. motomanmike

    IMG 3184

    From the album: OC Cruisin 2013

    1972 LS1 PLATO
  19. motomanmike

    IMG 3210

    From the album: OC Cruisin 2013

    The crew today
  20. motomanmike

    CELICA 3

    From the album: OC Cruisin 2013

    1970 Celica with VG33
  21. A tune file might help us too. Maybe an engine running data log?
  22. I've seen terrible starter postive wires do this or terrible battery to chassis, battery to block grounds. Sounds like your battery ground isn't good.The current draw at start up makes the grounds smoke all over the vehicle because its supplying the ground to the starter with those instead of the big ground like it should. Make sure your spacer plate on your trans isn't causing it if you grounded on that side of the trans bell housing. I usually run the battery ground right to the starter bolt though since the starter gets its ground through the starter body.
  23. I put this issue to bed this weekend. Its my ignition tumbler. Whats odd is the coil wasn't getting power, however the relay board would, ECU would, and the fuel pump would prime. At points I'd start to crank the engine I'd notice the LED not firing for ignition but the ecu had power which was odd to me but my coil is powered off the stock wiring and relay. Changed the key switch out and its all gone. Fires right up.
  24. This was a CX racing intercooler, it keeps temps about 10 degrees above ambient temp. Its a little larger than i like but posted it more to show how we installed it. We used an intercooler with the inlet outlet on the same end and went into the core support through existing holes so I didn't cut the body of the car at all. Also, the way its mounted I used exhaust hangers and bent/welded them so the intercooler actually is suspended on the rubber mounts of the hangers. I haven't had any issues with boots ripping or stretching and its been on there a few thousand miles. I will end up using a smaller intercooler later on, this one is way too big for what i'm doing.
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