motomanmike

I like your comparison. I have always loved a David and Goliath story when it comes to cars people have built. This is one great example. Its what many of us thrive on with building our cars. The weight savings is where its at. When I raced motocross, a lot of the guys had a formula they lived by and it was every 7lbs of weight reduction = 1hp gain. So the biggest hp gains we ever achieved as riders was dieting and losing weight as riders and losing weight on the qauds. I'm not sure what the formula is for cars and even if that formula was right for a race bike but it was the cheapest/easiest way to support the simple laws of physics.

Was this something that happened over night, or a gradual issue? Did you just purchase the car? Did the car sit for an extended period of time? Sounds like when you are pressing the clutch pedal it isn't disengaging the clutch enough. Slave cylinder, or master cylinder issues could be the culprit, could be a cracked clutch fork there are many possibilities. Its possible the clutch is toast but we need some more information than it just won't go into gear.

Is the dash cracked?

I haven't yet on this board. I upped the required fuel yesterday up into the 13 range and it ran better but not great, I feel comfortable with it enough that i'm going to try to take it to work this week, maybe Friday. I challenged my boss who is a DC electrical genius that he couldn't fix it and he laughed at me, said he'd fix it in 20 minutes, grounds are the problem he is convinced. We shall see how it works out. I hope it does. Here's another datalog, some serious spikes and dips on it. The reset, i stalled it out turning the car around. I'm not quite used to this new clutch yet. New Compressed (zipped) Folder.zip

Its been about 2 1/2 months since i've posted anything on this issue. I installed a new clutch, transmission, rear suspension, r200 rear and rear t3 arms in the mean time. I finally buttoned all of it up and started the car and drove it and the verdict is I still have noise. Flat out. I own a few MS2 boards. All work fine both on stims and all functions work when installed in the car and they all yield the same results for the most part. My wiring must be my issue because it isn't these boards. So my thoughts are to re do the entire harness and lose the relay board. My data logs look terrible (attached) The only thing I'm going to try first off is my rpm input wire. Currently I have the factory 4 pin pigtail that is plugged into the distributor on the distributor. I cannibalized a stock harness that had lots of issue and cut the plug off of it about 16 inches back from the plug so I'd have plenty of wire. I then spliced shielded cable to the plug so i could quickly remove it if i needed too. So my thoughts are two fold. Either ditch the relay board and use just a pre made harness from DIY and do my own relays for fuel pump, injectors and coil or attempt to wire my distributor right from the distributor all the way to the relay board. I'm not sure what I'll try fist but I'll post up the results. I don't get any resets, my car stayed connected to tunerstudio the entire time and never cut out. It did however feel very weak, unstable and shuttered quite a bit. Never backfired though. This was all on a V3.0 MS2 no frills, just basic fuel and spark with a bip directly driving the coil and using the PWM New Compressed (zipped) Folder.zip

Just how much of a gambling man are you? Good luck!!

Most any vehicle on the road with the gear reduction starter only needs about 500-550 cca. I use Deka batteries. They seem to hold up well and are made right in PA group 34 size.

Very interesting, i'd love to see some picks of the mock up so keep us posted. I just got rear lca's from TTT they are awesome quality and fit perfectly so i can only imagine what it will turn out like when you are done. Wheel options get alot broader when you can fit s13 wheels and TTT just came out with billet 5 lug hubs that accept stock s30 bearings so when you do the front 5 lug conversion you will be golden.

I've started using group 34's due to the height. Good luck

You have to place your current MSQ in a "zip" folder and then upload the zip folder. Just right click on your desktop. Create new zip folder. Drag your MSQ into that folder and upload it here. Did you get a new board too? Previously in the thread it appeared your board had a burnt spot on Q16 underneath? Get that msq uploaded and maybe a data log cranking the car a few seconds.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110054-external-walbro-fuel-pump-issues-not-priming-right/ I had a very similar issue an it was the regulator that failed

Love those cars. Tony i thinks its really cool you share these pics. You get to see some really cool cars and we live vicariously through you so keep them coming. Do you have any sites you upload photos on other than Hybridz?

Awesome just to have the opportunity to see some of those shops. Good luck with your build. Keep us posted how the import of the car goes. Sounds cool.

If you don't feel like doing it twice i'd heed everyone's advice

Really good to know Billy, my car has this exact problem but its intermitten. Some days the right rear light will light up when I start the car. Mess with the blinkers it goes off. At least I know what it is now thanks for posting it up.

Could be unrelated to the cable. Might be part of the factory pivot that is usually utilized. I had a similar problem on my one Z. The factory pivot on the firewall, the rod inside of it was corroded and had somewhat of a flat spot on it. Sat with some emory cloth and greased it good afterwards and things are much happier. I'm not a V8 swap but my problem was very similar to yours.

I did get it ironed out and it simply was a regulator. Very strange the way it acted and the way the fuel pressure even read. I've lowered the pump quite a bit and haven't had another issue with the priming or fuel feed. Still not a big fan of how loud the walbro is but its not a DD so I can live with it.

Skirkland I accept your apology but do yourself a favor. Don't get frustrated with someone that questions your advice, especially when they have lots of money and time tied up in it. Also read thoroughly. Matt specifically stated why you had the issue you did with your build and it was a tunerstudio setting because of how you built up your boards. You've tried to insult me twice on my own thread because I wouldn't take your advice and I was right to question it. My boards aren't built like yours in regards to the ignition outputs. I see you posting alot in the MS forums. I'm sure you are knowledgeable, but you aren't always right.

From the man himself. My email "A guy is stating that D14 is a stronger ignition output. Looking at the components of an MSII I can't even figure out from the manual for MSII assembly where you'd build it up to come through D14 but i'm very curious what he's talking about" Reply "No. The main advantages of using D14 are (1) easier to migrate from MS1/Extra, and (2) you keep all your distributorless outputs, if used, the same." Skirkland you may be using distributorless ignition or may have upgraded from MS1 at some point I don't know but there is no strength advantage of using D14.

Are you using an MSII with direct coil control I see you are using PCB 3.0? As far as the comment regarding "living with it" I think i've been very clear about what my intentions are and its why this thread is still going. I find your input interesting and would be more than willing to try it. I'm just very unclear about why a certain pin output on the board is going to change the dynamic of my issue and almost took your comment as a pop shot. If you could elaborate I think we all would find it very interesting. What jumpers exist on your board for your spark output, what output pin on the DB37 are you using etc. Saying use D14 tells us nothing specific as its just a portion of the board the LED typically goes in and doesn't even exist with an LED on the specific board i'm working with PCB 3.57. I've trolled through some forums trying to find specific examples of how people accomplish this with no success. The manual mentions nothing of using it for direct coil control. Billy, I was also concerned about noise with those 12v feeds. If I see it being a problem i'm just going to drill 2 holes in the top of the case and bring two wires out the top of the case on their own to a 12v source. I'm going to try it jumpered to the IAC first though, its a little cleaner install that way. Might get it installed tonight but its still raining here on the shore so I doubt i'll drive it today.