pparaska

Thure, I think that I actually paid that shop and David - they seem to be handling the workload together. And David's site mentions getting your money back if you buy a cam for over $200. Cam, Lifters, and springs will be over that, so I should be getting it back. [ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

There's a crush sleeve (seen it in the manuals) and I've been warned by one person to not just swap flanges. But for the labor costs involved in having a shop tear it down, I decided to do what blueovalZ said. I also have a 2 inch pilot on my flange. I had an adapter made up from a trans slip yoke and a flat plate of steel.

Jason, it sounds like you figured it out and know where the down falls are and that you can live with them. Dan, I didn't have holes in my head ( ), so I put my temp sender in the intake manifold, in a hole already provided.

I've been reading alot of SBC rebuild/modify books lately. I think it was Lingenfelter says to use APR thread sealant on the head bolt threads AND under the heads, with stock torque specs.

That's pretty cool, I remember Design News or something having that showcased a year ago or so. I "came up with" the solenoid driven valve idea about 20 years ago. Looked around and found out it was "too hard". Looks like after 20 years someone has figured out a way to do it. Can you imagine having a valve train that could have step-function type valve events, at what ever lift was needed, and at whatever degree, changing as a quick function of time? You could have a super-flat torque curve, optimal BSFC, etc. ALL THE TIME.

Terry, all, this is exactly why I don't throw out any usable spares for my Z. If I bend a strut tube, etc., I don't want to have to find another. I bought a parts car years ago, stripped it, and have it all in my basement (the wife just LOVES that ). But places like Clark Z cars of AZ, Z barn, etc. have a decent stock of used stuff. I agree on getting stuff you've wanted for a while but thought was a bit expensive new - decide now if you really want it and buy or leave. In a few years many of the OE 240Z parts will be NLA. They become NLA everyday. I know all about that!

Andy, I hate my Holley Blue also - too loud! One great thing about buying PAW's catalog is you find out about parts that Summit and Jeg's don't list. Carter has a street pump that does 5 (maybe 5-6?) psi, and a COMPETITION street pump that's 7-8. I'm thinking the lower pressure one would be enough and be quieter? I did order the Carter pump isolation mounts ($9 from PAW) and I'll try those on the Holley first.

http://www.hotrocker.com/index.html Being the usual skeptic, I'm concerned about reliabilty, kinks in the torque curve from this thing. I remember reading the article by Jim McFarland (who I respect) and it's always been intriguing to me. I'll tell ya - $900 for a super broad torque curve like this: ...is very inticing. But it could end up being a waste of money too. $900, an afternoon to install, some slits cut in some stamped steel valve covers to install, I'm tempted. Opinions? [ August 31, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

I agree 100% with Mike - if it's in decent shape and even if it does have the w/o holes heads, it's a bargain. BTW, I made simple brackets to mount my alt and AC compressor to use the double hump heads w/o holes.

AFAIK, The last small journal 327 came in 1967 cars and trucks. For 1968 and 69, it was a large journal crank 327 (same journal sizes as the 350). I'm about 100% positive that there weren't 327's available after 1969. BTW, the 307 has the same journal sizes and stroke as a 68/69 327. Crank materials: 62-67 327 - Tufftrided Forged Steel 68-69 327 - Tufftrided? Forged Steel & cast iron 68+ 307 - cast only? Maybe trucks had forged? One thing I've come to a conclusion on (I think) relative to 327 versus 350: You can go a bit wilder on the cam in a 350 and still have decent low end torque. The 327's shorter stroke and 23 fewer cubes have the cam company tech people suggesting smaller cams to me as I want to go a bit radical. Something to consider. That said, the 327 is a nice bore/stroke for higher rpm use.

Sounds like you're having the typical teething problems is all. And it sounds like you're out there on the street having fun too!

Sold. Email me your address and I'll ship it out.

JCI - stay away!

Drax, I'd be very interested in what you come up with for my Eclipse.

yeah, that's been discussed here (check the search engine) - but with external linkage, possibly notchy shifting, and a huge price tag, it's not too popular with the V8Z crowd.

6 speeds: BW T-56 from the 94-97 Camaro and Firebird Aftermarket T-56 (check Sallee Chevrolet) 5 speeds: World Class T-5 (mid 80s to 92?) Camaro and Firebird Tremec TR-3550: std, TKO, TKO II (search this site for more info)

Are you sure the port volume is 265? That's huge for a small block Anyway, 265 or even 205 ports are pretty big for a street motor in the 340-360 inch range. I'd imagine low speed torque would suffer. [ August 30, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Jags That Run (JTR) sells that for $49. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Stealth.html#datsun BTW, I have one if your are interested. Brand new, installed, and driven 1/2 mile. Make me an offer? I'm going to a Autometer speedo, so I won't need it.

Welcome BigA, Look at today's posts - someone just asked "scarp" (Stan) how his SBC into Z32 was going. Also, try the search engine here for "Z32" - you should see other posts on this topic. Enjoy,

I know Kevin will love this, and I bet a bunch of others will enjoy it too. It's long, and if you click on a figure in the article, a new window with all the figures and captions shows up. http://www.motortecmag.com/archives/2001/jun/JUN01-01/JUN010101.html Kevin, he's talking about the slider-crank thing, but only touches on the details. BTW, I found this by doing a google search on "camshaft selection" (I know, I take FOREVER to make decisions ). Here's the link to what it brought up on Vizard's site: http://www.davidvizard.com/camshaft.html Vizard offers a service for selecting the optimum cam for your use. Interesting that he mentions the same shop in Tucson AZ that Thurem noted in a post yesterday. I wonder if they still will run your numbers if you call, as Vizard charges $35US to select your cam with the software he wrote and they beta tested. BTW, he notes that the cam companies will tell you different things every time you call. I had just that experience lately. Anyway, the High Compression article is very interesting and has a bunch of good info on Intake valve closing and compression ratio, like Kevin has shown us many times.

Sounds like you'll be cruising in no time! Hang in there. I hope to see it at Mike's reception!

I think for the boost levels most likely used on a larger, o-ringing might not be needed. Plus the SB Chevy has 5 head bolts per cylinder which helps.

Ross, sorry to hear of the mount breaking - glad you caught it soon. I made a simple "stand" for my engine when I moved houses. The engine was complete. I took a piece of scrap (2x10?) that was about as long as the pan and put it below the pan on the floor. To it I stood two about 7.5" long pieces of 2x4 and nailed them from below. The two 2x4 pieces were positioned so that they extended up to the pan rail. This way the engine weight was partially held up by the 2x4s onto the pan rail. I'd think something like that would work, to allow you to jack the engine up without crushing the pan.

I think Bob Reiger (sp?) is doing a heck of a job convincing the drag racing street car set that turbos ARE a great alternative! As did the GN!