pparaska

I'd love to hear John Washington (of Velo Rossa fame) on the topic of PROPERLY crating 'glass parts for shipment. In my estimation, if someone is going to spend thousands on a body kit, they should be willing to spend a few hundred to have the supplier build WOODEN crates to ship the stuff in. Even for a fender, I'd think spending a bit on a good wooden crate would be worthwhile. John, how do you ship your kits, etc.

I was one of those wondering about backwards NACA ducts for removing hot air from under the hood (too bad, I just got the car back from the paint shop last night ). To my simple, untrained aero mind, it only makes sense that they'd extract air if turned around. But hey, there's lots about aero that is very counter-intuitive, except for a handful of very experienced, smart aero people. Thanks for the heads up! [ August 23, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Like Terry (blueovalz) said, check that stop switch down by the pedals. Also the turn signal switch also is part of the brake light circuit.

Ditto on the 4-6-8 thing - that was JUNK. What do you guys think about the rear mounted timing chain? That'd make cam changes real fun!

Drax, Scottie, I think I know why I HAD the misconception that many trubo cars had a "rubberband" acceleration character: I HAVE (HAD) ONE! 92 Mitsu Eclipse (2 liter turbo) The car weighs a bit over 3100 lbs The stock system has a bleeder tha ALWAYS bleeds some metered boost pressure/volume to the wastegate canister. This is unfortunate, as it causes alot of "around town" boost lag. I corrected that with a relief type manual boost controller that bleeds metered pressure/volume to the wastegate canister only after a set pressure point. This helps tremendously on the around down and high cruise in 5th scenarios! It's still laggy below say 3000 rpm though. But this is an old design. It seems from my reading that the newer OE cars have less lag. And a custom built setup if done right (for low lag design) won't have much at all. That type of system may give up at higher rpm, and heat the intake air too much at high rpms (since the turbo would be sized for lower rpm performance). Of course, two smaller turbos may help this too. But it's a function of cubes as well. I USED to think that all turbo cars had lag, due to my reading mags for twenty some years, etc. and having owned one that was laggy. But I've learned that this doesn't have to be so.

I don't know what the SOP is, but I'd try installing it first, lifting the diff back and up to it, then installing the front mount/isolator, and drivshaft.

Woah. This is the FIRST time I've heard of Greg not living up to his side if a bargain. I think things will work out. Greg's brother Pete who lives in NY is dying of cancer - it could be that he's busy with that whole situation. Please don't write Greg off yet - I've heard nothing but excellent things about his business practices - even though I agree that a month is a long time not the hear from him. I've dealt with him over the phone and bought things. When there was a misunderstanding on what parts I wanted, he ended up telling me to keep the ones that were wrong and sent the ones I wanted for no charge.

Supposedly, the Pro-5.0 is the one to have for drag racing - it has a heavy centering spring for the 2nd to 3rd shift. I have one for my Tremec and it seems nice, but no miles on it yet ;(. There's also one by Steeda as well, some say just as nice. Do a web searc hand you'll find lots of info on the Mustang boards and sites on this. My only question about these shifters is whether the centering spring would make the 3rd to 2nd shift too stiff for everyday use. The Pro-5.0 that I have has short compression springs that center the shifter in the gate. I am considering some custom springs if these are too stiff. Already measured the coil diameter and wire gage .

Not sure I can help, but I have 8" coilovers on the back, raised above the rim. 17x9 inch rims with 149mm backspacing, using a 1/2" rotor hat. 16x9's probably on't fit though, as the strut angles down, and if you use 1/2" less radius from the hub (16s vs 17s), you'd run into the strut tubing with the rim. I think 16x8.5's might fit - if you can find them. You-d have to mock this up to make sure what backspacing would work. Check my site under "wheels & tires" for fitment info on my setup.

The door hanging open can be worn latch parts or mis-adjusmtent. Gaps in the 240Z body with non-factory installed fenders, etc. can run the gammot for gaps, etc. And the Fiberglass ones fit notoriously poorly, if you're looking for nice gas, etc. Heck, the aftermarket front steel fenders I have don't fit well - too much difference in the stamping to make them fit perfect.

I sound like a Motorsport Auto salesman lately, but I actually don't buy much of anything from them. BUT, I think it was their flier that had a complete assortment for sale. The reason I asked "why stock" is that more that a few people have found that the stock bushings allow too much movement of the diff, and end up breaking down and getting to a point of metal to metal pounding.

I had that happen to the TH350 in my 70 Camaro way back in HS. It was a clutch pack or something burnt up. Not to worry, the TH350 is a cheap and easy tranny to fix. I'd just find another unless you want to tackle rebuilding it. Or have a local shop rebuild it.

Yes, the twist is normal. Why did you go with the stock rubber mounts and not the Urethane?

LEAVE THE METAL PART IN! Sorry to shout. I foolishly took the metal part out (that wasn't easy either) and had to make up a new cylinder, etc. to put in on my first mustache bar.

Yes, and the silicon w/ limiter 1 piece oil pan gasket is nice too. Oil pan gasket leaks are kind of a rite of passage with the SBC.

BTW, Motorsports recent flyer has a chrome valve cover for $120. I didn't note if there was a core charge though.

quote: Originally posted by Montara22: For what it's worth, my old high school shop teacher had us dip the assembled piston into 30W oil up to the rings just before assembly... seemed like a good idea at the time... Tim That's what several books I have said to do also. The only thing that bother me about this is getting the combustion chambers all carboned up when that stuff burns off. One thing I like to do is get a roll of white, non-patterned paper towels and automatic trans fluid and wipe the cylinders down until a clean paper towel with fresh liquid on it comes out of the cylinder without a trace of grey on it. This gets all the metal and honing grit out of cylinder wall surface.

WOW. Like bbbowtie said, what I can see of your bodywork looks great! Is that black or a dark color? That is one nice looking job for a daily driver! SHWEET! BTW, my car go RE-PAINTED today also. THey will be wet sanding and rubbing it all day tomorrow. I should be getting it back this week.

BLKMGK, I dunno what's in the Impala SS. Read the page I linked above - it's programmable with a laptop - sounds sweet. It better be for 900 clams! I have a bud with a 355/2004R in a 240Z. I HATE the way that thing shifts - you never know when it will shift, and when you do get out of it just a bit, it bangs into the second (from 1st) and you'd think the car was coming in half. Of course, I don't know how to drive it right (not my car) and it might not be adjusted right.

That's less than a tenth of what I paid! Way to go!

Looks like one way to cool the differential and brakes!

Davy, I can tell you've been reading alot of Lonehdrider's posts - your sense of humor is showing it .

quote: Originally posted by Speaker: What's the point of NOT removing the cat? Bi-annual emissions testing, fines, jail, etc.

Sallee-Chevrolet has a GM computer they sell for it: http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Transmission_Control_Modules/4L60E_4L80E.html Priced at $895! : http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/PriceList/group3.900-9.750,and_Gauges.html

Seriously, the words that came out of my mouth when I saw that pic were: Holy _hit! I had NO idea there was that much difference in width!