pparaska

No. Arizona Z brake kit for the rear does not, at least the several year old version I have. I've considered making a bracket to attacht to their bracket that mounts one of those small mechanical (e-brake) calipers. They are only a pound or so. Also a buck and a half a piece or more .

Great to hear Dan! I'm thinking of borrowing a digital cam corder to tape the video and audio when I start mine and put it on my site. Dan, let us know how she's running! Pete

Yes, although I want the new Fast Burn Al heads from GM, I have the old "double hump" or "fuelie" cast iron heads, casting number ending in 461. 2.02/1.60 stock. Port matched. 3 angle valve job, Lunati springs, 235 lbs @ .500". 7/16" screw in studs and guide plates. Comp Cams Magnum Pro 1.52:1 roller rockers. These heads and others like them from the 60s is what made the SBC the thing to beat. Ford didn't have anything comparable for a long time, and the SBC double hump heads were put on just about everything that came with a 327, but not all 327s. Of course, now days we have so many aftermarket choices, it's great. Funny that the GM Fast burn head is still running with the best of them for street/strip performance levels. You've got to hand it to those GM engineers. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

This is how I'd estimate it: Assume a 22 gage thickness (I don't have the decimal thickness handy, but it's less than a 1/16, I'm pretty sure. Then do some measuring of the amount of area you would be removing (use rectangular and triangular areas, I'd bet) much like you would do if your were paving the structure with a coarse Finite Element grid and get a total assumed area. (I think SpencZ is a mechanical engineering student so he knows what this means). But for those of you who don't, you would break up the interior areas using large adjacent rectangles and triangles, and then add up all the areas. Mass(lbm) = [.284 (lbm/in^3)]*[thickness (in.)][interior area (in.^2)] My guess is that you have less than 10 square feet (1440 in^2). So that'd be about a 25 lbs for the assumed 1/16" thick interior panels. There are some areas that are doubled up steel also, but I doubt that would add even 10 lbs. A V8 MG guy once told me his little V8 MG (chrome bumper) weighed over 2800 lbs with the AL Rover(Buick) V8. He knew what I was doing and said, "Yeah, those Z's are boxes of air." Very apropos. Personally, I doubt it's worth it. I'd only do it after the cage was welded in, so the body wouldn't crumple without the double walled shell. Regards, ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

The theory is that the exhaust pulse from one pipe ahead of the H- or X-pipe is split into both pipes downwind of the H or X, allowing it to have less backpressure and better sound absorption from two mufflers instead of one. This assumes that the pulses from the engine arrive at the H or X at different times (alternating). Now if difference in the tube lengths from two ports (one on either side of the engine) is off by 1/2 of the spacing of the pulses at a particular rpm, they would arrive at the H or X at the same time and there would be no "splitting" of the exhaust. I wonder if the NASCAR guys worry about this detail. As far as X-pipes, the only info I have on hand is from the Dr. Gas Web site http://www.drgas.com/products.html : "SYNCHRONIZING CROSSOVER KITS: This is the latest generation, high-tech, crossover system for V8 and V6 engines. It obsoletes all other crossover designs. Dyno tests show 10-25 h.p. increase. Noise is reduced by 2 to 6 dBA. The exhaust note is modified to sound like an Indy car! The crossover is available as a complete kit or the junction may purchased separately. A complete kit will make up the first 3 to 4 feet of the exhaust system. Included are flanges, gaskets, mandrel bent inlet and outlet tubes and the crossover junction. The crossover may be installed after the headers, or after the catalytic converters(CROSSOVERS ARE NOT EMISSIONS LEGAL IF USED IN FRONT OF THE CONVERTERS). The kits can also be custom configured to special needs...call us! When selecting a size, it is suggested you match the diameter of the header collector/converter outlet with the size of the crossover. Muffler inlet size should match the outlet size of the crossover." I used a 2-1/2" X-pipe (I bought the junction only, without the inlet and outlet pipes) just under the slip yoke of the trans. It's a tight fit on a 240Z. I had to use sections from the tight (4" radius) J-bend mandrel 2-1/2" pipes in both inlets of the X-pipe and one on one of the outlets, and a section of the 3-1/2" radius 2-1/2" pipe diameter tubing "donut" from The Chassis Shop on one of the outlets. Again, since the beast is yet to start, I have no idea what it will sound like, or whether it's really worth while on a mufflered exhaust. I'm sure if the NASCAR guys are useing them (which most are), they are worth it for their unmuffled systems. You can see my exhaust at: http://www.tidalwave.net/~pparaska/exhaust.htm

Ditto Mike exactly on the pedal to carb linkage. I did the same thing, Lokar high-tech cable, drilled out the "riveted" on ball on the end of the pedal arm, and used two fender washers (one on either side of firewall) to mount the cable to the firewall. I'm running the stock tank (coated), an inline filter, with the Holley Blue pump triple vibration isolated in the stock location, 3/8" AL line in the stock location in the tunnel. On the firewall will be another inline filter, the holley regulator, a distribution block with fuel pressure gauge and simple old rubber hose going to the Holley Vac Sec 750 carb. 3" high Moroso 14" diam Chrome filter housing - someday I'd like to find a way to run cool air from in front of the radiator to the carb. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Clues: If it's a 3.545:1 or even a 3.7:1 or 3.9:1, going to the 3.36:1 gears (which are still available, I believe) will only get you a 100 to a 3-400 rpm drop in top 1:1 gear with 25 inch tires. Do the math and you'll see what I mean. If I get a chance after returning from a business trip Friday, I'll post a URL for my spreadsheet, but there are plenty of web tools for this around (don't have any URL's handy right now). BTW, these diffs are not easy to set up for a number of reasons, so just keeping the R&P that's in the one you have is about the only viable way to go, unless you want to send it to Jim Cook racing and have Jason go through it for you. Big bucks for that though, like $500 for labor I think. And you need to start with a new R&P, about $500 again. Not worth it in my book. A 3.15:1 gear set was the lowest ever made and they are NLA. If you're really worried about lowering the rpm at cruising speed about the only way to go is an overdrive tranny. Sorry, but I have to agree with JTR on this one. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Thanks for confirming my suspicions, Dan. I know that the John's Cars kit USED TO BE a scarab/hooker placement kit, now you have confirmed that it still is. Plus I never cared for the tone of his literature. Plus his web page is very UNinformative compared to the JTR page. JTR it is! ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Dan, I have no suggestions - timing and fuel would be what I would check. I just wanted to say COOL! You got her on the road! Keep the wheel side down, Pete

Spencz, I wasn't saying all 110V Migs were bad, but most of the 220V ones are decent. I agree that you should only buy one of the higher end brands either way, to get a decent machine. Usually, the 220V units have better control of the wire speed and better duty cycle. But the good 110V ones do also.

There are special tips for doing "spot" welds through two pieces of metal, but I've had little luck with them. Basically it is a gas nozzle that has prongs that extend out that you put against the metal, turn down the wire speed, and just hold the trigger while the area gets hot. Didn't work well for me. I had to drill a hole in the top piece of metal that I was trying to join to the one under it to get it to work. At this point it just becomes a "plug" welding operation, which you can do without the special gas nozzle. The problem with plug welding is you have to predrill. Definitely forget about the flux core wire and just get a gas setup. If you plan on doing aluminum, it's best to get a gun with a feed reel on it. I don't have that setup but would love it. Be warned that the cheaper 110V welders have low duty cycle and you end up waiting for them to recover after welding a while, or they sputter like mad. Do it right and get a good 220V unit if you can afford it, and run a 220V line to your work area if you don't have one. Wish I had just gotten a 220V version instead. Once you have a Mig, you'll wonder how you got along without it! And they are very easy to learn to use - even teaching yourself. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Spencz, Jim Biondo is using an R200 set up by Jason at Jim Cook Racing with the now-NLA 3.15:1 gear set. Jim is NOT using the Corvette HALFSHAFTS but using C3 Corvette STUB AXLES. He is using 280ZX Turbo halfshafts and custom adapters to the C3 Vette companion flange. That 9" Ford IRS sounds neat. If you never top 11.00, I think it would be a good choice, especially if you want to car to be more than a drag car. BTW, I've seen two people swap the C4 Vette aluminum posi housing into the Z. One used a vette center section that had a mounting arm broke off and fabbed up a mount to use with the Mustache bar mounting points. This guy used the corvette halfshafts at the inner ends in place of the inner U-joint end of the Z halfshaft, and welded it together. The other guy that did this swap used a C4 vette center section that was intact but had the mounting arms cut and rewelded so that the center section mounted to the Mustache bar studs. Then he got some spicer male and female driveshaft slip yokes that mated to make extending halfshafts. He had custom adapters to go from the outboard end of these to the Z stub axle companion flange. The thing I kind of questioned on this setup was that those slip yokes might bind under high torque loads and not let them extend or retract. I don't know if that's a real problem or not. The guy that engineered the car is pretty sharp, so I'm sure he looked into that. BTW, this last guy is Henry Costanzo, Pres. of the Georgia Z club. He described this swap and alot of other V8Z stuff at the Atlanta Z Car convention in 95? ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

I also prefer a manual. But I'm building my car for street use, very occasional road race track days for grins, and an occasional drag race run. Autos make the swap easier and make for more consistent E.t.s for most drivers. I have installed the Tremec 5spd, but not driven it yet. I've heard it is a notchy shifting transmission, so I'm a bit concerned. If I were to do it again, I'd go for the T-56 as it seems they are getting to be more reasonably priced in the recycler yards these days. Mike Kelly can talk about the ease and cost of that swap, but hit the Tech Info page on this site for his article on the swap. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Shannon, I'm not sure which car you have (and by that I mean which stub axles (240/early-260 or late-260/280) because the earlier ones are a bit more prone to break with lots of torque, big sticky tires and clutch drops. The later stub axle gives a little more strength. BTW, the 280ZXT stub axles are the same size where they usually break, at the transition from the splines to the bearing race surface. Jim Biondo is using C3 Vette stub axles, stock vette bearings and custom outer race spacers to put a stout aftermarket billet piece in the stock hub carrier. BTW, Jim met a guy down in the southeast US somewhere that has a 700 hp Supra Turbo engine and tranny in a 240Z. He has been having trouble with the CV halfshafts. Seems the ball bearings in the tripod joints are trying to force their way through the outer tulip casing on the inner CV shaft joint. Jim is considering a bolt-on reinforcing band or having them carbon fiber wrapped on a filament winding maching to stiffen this area on his car, although he hasn't seen the problem with only 550 hp . Man, there's always a weak link if you keep upping the power ! ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

CV shafts in a non-Turbo ZX: Man, we need a ZX expert here. Maybe someone on Zcar.com or the IZCC list knows, but if the stub axles are the same in the Turbo and non-Turbo 280ZXs, then it should only take the CV shaft companion flanges (and 6 bolts/nuts/washers per side) and the CV half shafts out of the 280ZX Turbo. If the hub carrier is that same (my guess is that it's the same) then the stock inner bearing seals should cross over. The other big if: The CV shafts only will work in the R200 diff, so if you don't have one of those, you'll have to upgrade to it. Check this first, but this is my educated guess. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

My 80 year old dad and I were able to pick up a totally stripped 240Z shell, with the sub frame connectors. It couldn't be more than 500 lbs. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Plus a stock 4 bolt block (with non-splayed outer bolts) is not as strong as a 2 bolt with a splayed bolt conversion. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - E-mail: pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Ditto to that, Dan. I to was on the fence, but now I think I want at least a 4 point with door bars (possibly swinging). And now I know that there are places that have good ones. However, I'm going to check with a local builder to have them put it in. Great thread. Great forum! ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - E-mail: pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Michael, Is that " no IRS below 11.00" the updated ruling? I'd heard that they had lowered it for the Vipers. Is the 11.00 the lowered number or the previous on of a few years ago? I don't have a current NHRA book, but a neighbor does - I borrow it from her (no kidding, she has a car she trailers to the track every weekend. Sorry guys, she's happily married ). Pete ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - E-mail: pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Unfortunately, I haven't started yet. That should happen within the next few months. Notice the "Marathon" in my sig? I move REAL slow on this project. But I'd venture to say it would make it as loud as an H-pipe would, and quieter than no connection between the "duals". Thanks for the kudos also! ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - E-mail: pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

I posted this to the FordvsChevy.com board, but was wondering if any of you Chevy heads knew this: I was watching Horsepower TV and they had a GMP ZZ5 they showed and hopped with the hot cam. What's a ZZ5 and how does it differ from a ZZ4? BTW, the modded Z55 put out 448 HP on their new dyno. I'm not sure the heads they had on it are part of the ZZ5 package, but they did call them "fast burn" heads. They were aluminum, with raised ex/in port ceilings, SS intake, sodium ex valve w/ 3 angle. Those heads are about $1100 new. Thanks, Pete ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - E-mail: pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -