pparaska

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: ...I'm in the heart of rice country... Davy I am going to say a little prayer for you . Sorry to hear that, Davy

In MD, they can give you an Inspection ticket that makes you take the car to a state police barracks. This place will have officers that are trained to use a decibel meter for measuring against a state standard (which escapes me). So they kind of "gotcha". What I'd like to know is what is the frequency spectrum of that specification and meter. Low rumbly noise is generally less "unpleasant" than high pitched chain saw noise.

It's about 88-8 ohms. I had to recalibrate an aftermarket (Autometer) 73-10 Ford gage to make it read E and F when it should. No word yet on how it measures 1/4, 1/2, 3/4. Check out my write-up, etc. at: http://members.home.net/pparaska/gagecalibration.htm HTH, [ August 13, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Paint for $2000 is not unreasonable, but others have spent more . $2000 for swap labor is about 35-40 hours, not including parts. It COULD go much higher, I'd think, if stuff needs to be custom fabbed. This one is the big unknown IMO.

Sounds to me like the NIRA needs to wake up and smell the roses. Not everything Import is a high winding or boosted small displacement engine.

Dick, sorry my site is so out of date, I'll fix the link to your pics. I need to get around to redoing it someday, not enough round to-its, I guess.

Yes, it is. Last night when I clicked on it from the featured cars page, I got a message that Zing was closing it's doors, etc. Now it's all showing as hosted on HybridZ, even the pics. I dunno, maybe Dan acted fast or I had a REALLY old link stored in my cache?

Watch out. Somewhere in 70-73, it got switched from not being criss-crossed to being criss-crossed. Eric? (Neyerlin) You know when that happened?

Speedracer: The link to your car on the main page is down - zing has closed shop. You probably know that! Maybe SuperDan can host your pics and some text on HybridZ?

Len: One man's junk is another man's treasure. I agree, I wouldn't do it either, as it doesn't fit the performance profile I want (low end torque). But it's his car to do with what ever he likes.

(Moved this from the Chevy V8 forum.) Definitely check out http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes_zcar.html Look at the 3rd conversion down. The brake conversion involves redrilling for 5lug. HTH, [ August 11, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Randy79 280ZX8 : We have deleted VERY few posts in the 1.5 years HybridZ has existed. If I see something out of place (like a brake question in a V8 forum), it SOMETIMES gets moved, but it's not something we look for as standard maintenance, etc. But I agree, this one should have gone in "non-tech". No biggie, this forum (Chevy V8) does seem to become a catch-all forum for some reason, maybe because it's at the top or it's so popular and people just post to it because it's where they are most often. I'll move this one tomorrow. Everyone: Hopefully, we don't have many members that do not post or feel they must often restrain themselves because they feel the moderators will get "pissed" at them. Sure, we delete posts VERY RARELY (5 or less in 1.5 years), but we do so more swiftly these days to keep the place nice and comfy. That's the way the originator (Dan Porter) and many of the rest of us like it. If we drive people away because they can't hold their tongue and be civil, so be it. But I don't think that's the case. Back to our regularly scheduled tech discussions!

For an auto, how about the 4L80E? Made for trucks, it's designed for alot of torque, and supposedly the gear ratios are pretty good too.

For an auto, how about the 4L80E? Made for trucks, it's designed for alot of torque, and supposedly the gear ratios are pretty good too.

When I had the 280ZX T companion flanges, 240Z stubs, and 280ZX T CV shafts on my 240Z, there was bind with the last 1/2" of droop. It was a resistance you could feel by turning the wheel with the other wheel off the ground and the trans in nuetral. A very definite evenly spaced spot in the rotation. It happened 3 times per revolution, coinciding with the number of fingers on the spider in the CV joints. I believe it was a combination of the compressed shaft and the high angularity in the joint causing the bearing on the finger of the spider that was hitting on the end of the groove in the inner shaft joint.

Tim, the aftermarket T-56 is $2295. Add a flywheel, PP, clutch (standard stuff for a T-5, not the weird T-56 stuff), standard bellhousing, etc. Can't see the whole thing going past $2800, if that. Huge chunk o' change. http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/BorgWarner/bwt56.html I'm wondering if these cheap, strong Mopar A833 boxes (sse the other recent threads)won't easily adapt to the SBC.

If Compressed Natural Gas is the topic, a bunch of people here where I work have done some of this (along with Lincoln Composites). The tanks are Carbon Fiber/glass fiber/epoxy with an outer casing. They had to take a bullet shot to pass muster. To read about this, here's a link: http://www.jhuapl.edu/programs/trans/ANGV.htm Here's a technical paper that the two organizations authored (Need Adobe Acrobat reader): http://www.lincolncomposites.com/techpapers/ngv_98_iss.pdf Pretty cool stuff. Hmm, maybe a blown SBC on CNG

There's another option on the T-56. Get the aftermarket replacement on that comes with an adapter to put it behind a Camaro T-5 bellhousing. Ain't cheap though ($2295!). They can also drill this adapter for you to put the trans on a straight-up bellhousing ($40). http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/BorgWarner/bwt56.html This uses the standard input shaft (26 spline) so I'd think a standard 1 or 2 piece flywheel/PP/clutch disc would work with it. Pricey, but at least it's new and an easier swap.

FYI, The equation relating HP and Torque is: HP = Torque * rpm / 5252 That's for standard HP and torque in ft lbs. So if you know the Torque at a given rpm, you know the HP, and vice versa. And if you know what the torque "curve" is (torque as a function of time), then you know the hp curve too. Note that dynomometers (brake type, not inertial ones like the Dynojet) measure torque directly and convert it to hp in the software. HTH,

Uhh....YEAH! That'd fit my personality to a "T", right Davy?

Actually, I was thinking about cutting off the posts on the back of the emblem and using custom trimmed double sided sticky tape that wouldn't show. Don't like putting holes in panels.

If interested in how I installed a Tremec 5spd (TR-3550), check out my page at: http://members.home.net/pparaska/mychoicetranny.htm , http://members.home.net/pparaska/TremecInfo.htm and http://members.home.net/pparaska/drivelinemods.htm Note, the parts, bought new to install this cost about $2000. I'd go with a used F-body T-56 and the needed parts for it instead. The T-56 was a rare piece in the yards when I made my tranny choice.

With money as no object, I think it's doable. I think the best bet would be to do a full tube frame/cage and remove all underhood sheet metal in front of the firewall.

Yeah, I'd seen that, but I wanted a more subtle approach. The font is definitely 60s, which I like . I held one up in place against the blue painted front fender under the front side marker light hole - looked pretty decent to me! It's pretty small (maybe a bit more than an inch tall, ~ 2" long) so it's not very obtrusive. Actually, these emblems went above a crossed flag emblem on the front fender of the 67 Camaro, behind the wheel.

Thanks guys, I guess we all agree those two pieces of chrome would look good.