pparaska

Jim, there are a bunch of metal can relays on a bracket at the top of the right kick panel below the dash. Some were factory, other(s) were probably added at the dealer for dealer in stalled A/C. Not sure whether the fuel pump relay was there to begin with from the factory or not, but I think it was.

Jason, I was hoping the university would pick up the wind tunel bill Good idea though on the Franklin Mint model. I have a BRE Z model that'd be good enough and cheaper. Guys, I know Mike and believe me the kid will NOT get off easy if Mike is the warden!

I love powerful cars with AWD! My daily driver is a tweaked 92 Eclipse GSX. Fun in the dry, fun in the rain, fun in the snow! I think an AWD Z would be awesome!

Yeah, MS in Mechanical Engineering. We did have a few EE classes though, and RC circuits are pretty simple. Actually, I got the idea for a delay off-relay circuit from an auto electronics site (can't remember where). I like that solution for a on-off-tempsender switch - cool. Ask Mike Kelly how nutso my cooling fan relay circuit is - he saw the schematic. It has about 10 times the functionality needed, but I didn't know how I wanted it to work so I made it do a bunch of stuff I can select in and out with a few switches. What I was going for was finding a set of operating parameters (temp sender and A/C trinary switch signals, manaul override switch) and three fan speeds (off, low, high) that would work best, without having the fan on if not needed. Playing with a bit of electronics is just another fun part of the car hobby to me - I do stuff on my car that's not necessary, but it's fun for me to design and build it.

Mike, Michael Ol might have some ideas on wind tunnels or water channels. He likes to use water channels to get easier flow-vis. I wonder if you could get an aerospace engineering student to do some scale or full scale stuff on this at a university. Univ. of MD has at least one wind tunnel - it might even be large enough for a Z? Anyway, the thought is that if the University sees it as a good senior or non-thesis masters degree project for a student, they might buck up and give some time in the tunnel. Just a thought. There are a few Z bodies around you could play with in a tunnel without using yours .

This record keeps playing over and over doesn't it? All good points guys. I personally don't care if some other engine that I don't have is somehow "better" I just want it to go like stink when I hit the go pedal, no downshifting needed. Simple, huh? Heck, electric motors have a perfectly flat torque curve - from 0 rpm to redline .

I emailed Jeff (AZ240V8) and Mike Mileski privately, since I am going to be in Tucson 25-28 June on business. They want to get together with me, but I'm thinking maybe we can all get together (including others) near Tucson one of those nights for a Tucson HybridZ meet. Whataya think? I get into Tucson Airport at about 730 PM on the 25th, so some time around 830 or 9 that evening would work. I probably need to hang with the crowd I'm traveling with one of the other nights but at least two other nights 26-28 would be open for me too. I see Glendale is NE of Pheonix. That's about 2hrs from Tucson? Is there a place in between we could all meet maybe? I go on little sleep, so driving back and forth doesn't bother me much.

Mike, I want a G-nose, but you're about 3 months too late. Remember, you can borrow NISSAN OE GNOSE hood hinges from Glen to study .

Terry, that's strange. I got that info on the sticks being shorter from Marty at Raxles.com. At least I thought I did. Oh well, another brain fart. [Really, sick, I broke 2000 posts!] [ June 13, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Stock, it depends on the year. Many of the 73s had it hooked up, and a relay, harness from the relay (on the right kick panel), in-line fuse, etc. were added to the US cars. The overseas cars had the electric fuel pump and wiring standard. Anyway, it was part of a fix for vapor lock in the 73s, I believe. So if your car doesn't have the relay, inline fuse, etc. it probably didn't go anywhere, just was hanging around in the harness.

There are lots of tips and opinions on that in the old posts here - try out the search engine and search for coilover and coil-over. You'll get a ton of hits, it'll take a while to read, but there's a bunch there. Some people think coil-overs should not be on the street. I don't understand this as if you just put on coil-overs, and keep the stock isolator (scca-Mike has a set of pics and parts to do this on the HybridZ store and his site), there's nothing different, except more tire clearance, a wide range of spring rates, adjustable ride height and corner weights, etc. I other words, I see nothing wrong with it for the street. Check out scca-Mike's site for install pictures. Regards,

I didn't make that up. I've heard this before and although I don't believe everything I read, I do put some stock in the writer of the article "The 350 Engine Chevrolet Should Have Built". Read the first column of the second page of that article here - it's about the only place I can cite right off to back up my assertion above. Actually, I think the reduction in peak pressure and temperature that you point to with a shorter rod actually hurts detonation resistance - if the combustion space is growing more rapidly after TDC with a shorter rod, then the conditions for a good burn (swirl, turbulence, sufficient pressure and temperatre) means decreased combustion efficiency, and more tendency for knock. I think I see your reasoning that higher pressure and temperature are what can cause detonation, but if it hasn't occurred already on the compression stroke (due to correct tune, octane, swirl, etc.) than it has no reason to go unstable and start detonation after a good start from the spark plug. That's my theory, I have no idea whether it holds water .

FWIW, I found out that there are actually 3 sizes of GM CS alternators. From This Page you can read more, but it says the following: quote: ...The three most common CS Delcotron units are the CS-121, the CS-130 and the CS-144. "CS" stands for "Charging System" and the number denotes the outside diameter of the stator. The CS series alternators are high output units and differ from the earlier SI series alternators in a number of unique ways.

Davy, the rear ones aren't there (yet).

Never used it. I'm not surprised it great stuff. The stuff I'm going after is a high tensile and shear strength stuff. Can't remember the name right now, but I have it written down at home.

I believe someone posted a good basic design method for bellypans here somewhere...but...I'd be leary of using one on a car unless it's been tested in a wind tunnel, or take up to speed slowly and measure the lift (instrument the suspension?) with and without it.

That oughta work!

Fast, isn't that a Corvette MC? Got a part number or year?

Paranoid Pete here again. I used the stock wire to energize a relay at the fuel pump. Then I used a dedicated 12 gage hot wire (fused at the relocated battery) and ground wire (from the battery) to power the pump. I agree, find where that green wire comes out under the dash and tap into it at the end. BTW, my 73 only had one green wire to the pump area, and it wasn't very big. Also, I used the green wire at the dash to hook into a oil pressure safety switch to power the relay only when oil pressure (above 5 psi, for the Summit sourced switch I used, IIRC). Of course, you need to energize the relay to get the pump to start while starting the engine. You can use a momentary switch for this to manually run the pump at start up. For me, a bunch of big capacitors, a resistor and a small relay did the trick, creating a delay-off circuit. Energize the parallel capacitors (in series with the small relay) with the key on (and hidden fuel pump/ignition enable circuit is enabled), and after the capacitors charge, it de-enregizes the relay, so that now the fuel pump relay can only get current through the oil pressure safety switch. A small resistor in parallel with the capacitors discharges them after the key is turned off. The fuel pump relay gets current from this delay-off circuit for about 30 seconds, long enough for the engine to start and supply enoug hoil pressure to teh safety switch for that circuit to supply current to the fuel pump relay. (And some people wonder why this project is taking me so long!) Anyway, if you'r putting a fuel pump in the rear, be aware they can draw a good bit of current at full flow under pressure, and that long length of OE wire may not be sufficient. I added the relay back there since the battery was closer to the fuel pump than the dash, so I figured I'd have less voltage drop from the battery, to the relay near the pump then to the pump. Also, I suggest a oil pressure safety cutoff switch to energize the fuel pump relay.

I'm doing this with some Tercel DX Mirrors. I'm using a triangular piece of steel sheet to fit into the corner, most likely glued to the window frame and stainless trim strip on the door. To this the mirror is bolted. I'm going to use one of those high performance 2 part epoxies. Bolting to those parts of the car is problematic. [ July 23, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Jim, both. The "Stick" of the halfshafts are shorter on the left side. Also, the part that goes into the diff is shorter on the left side.

Wow, the pics look great! The car is coming together really nice! Wooo. Those pics are too big though. Get Ulead PhotoImpact or something and cut them down bud! I like PhotoImpact because it has a WYSIWYG compression engine (smartsaver) that lets you see the result as you slide the compression bar from max to min. The car is looking Great!

Webwalker - in your profile, in the signature block, put the tags around the URL of your picture - but don't put any spaces in between those tags.

From a practicality standpoint, for those of us without connections in the US, I agree. But watch Wangan Midnight movies (I've now watched Wangan Midnight I,II,II, and Shin Wangan I and II) and you'll see the lure. 600hp, that great whooshing sound - very intoxicating! Wish I could understand the dialogue!

That should bolt right in, if you have the 280ZX Turbo companion flanges. I'm pretty sure the stub axles are the same in the turbo and non-turbo 280ZX. Ross would know for sure.