pparaska

Another vote for a lower pressure cap! Put a 16 psi one on. The heater core, nor the heater valve was not designed for that kind of pressure. Heck, I don't know what the standard heater and rad hoses will do with that pressure. They'd work, but for how long?

Jim, on the switched negative, yes the reason is that if the rear of the car gets smacked (like backing into a wall or guard rail after a spin) the hot terminals of the switch are exposed and could get grounded to the sheet metal near the cut off switch. Ya know, I was thinking. You could put a Normally Closed (NC) contactor on the battery cable and just switch the contactor. NC would mean that you'd energize the contactor to cut power. Leave it un-energized until there's an emergency. You could have a manual switch in the car up or down stream of the contactor to disable the car day to day. This would save all the extra length of hot battery cable, etc. Of course, it'd work just as well but surely the NHRA and SCCA wouldn't go for it. Well, you guys are making me rethink things. I also have a hole in the back near the license plate that used to have an alarm key switch there (I moved it to the pocket that holds the gas filler cap - behind the door and out of sight!) Maybe I'll do what Jim did and put an NHRA/SCCA switch in there. But I'll probably just install the switch in the hole when I'm at the track and put a plug or something in it for street use. Great idea on the wire cutters! I still have a Halon extinguisher for the car, I'll tape my big electrician's wire cutters (that can cut battery cables in a pinch) to the fire extinguisher. This idea of the insulation melting off the battery cable during a fire or during a short has be thinking that some kind of fireproof sleeving would be in order. Hmm. I need to pull out the electrical catalogs...

Guys, don't forget that when figuring backspacing, you're also measuring the rim lip thickness. You have to add this to the half-width of the wheel to be able to figure out the offset. Check out this thread, which goes through the details, and has a diagram listing all the measurements: http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=000255

Jim, if you're totally cutting battery power to everything, the starter draws a good bit more than 20 or 30 amps. More like 75 or 100 amps. I'm using a plastic keyed cut-off switch mounted in the bulkhead behind the passenger seat (switch is in the tool box). The battery box like you have is bolted down above that tool box. It'd take a thief more than 1 or 2 minutes to bypass that switch if I took the key with me . Screw the NHRA. Any of the tracks I'd go to wouldn't care about a rear mounted switch or lever. If they did care, I'd just go home. Besides, they really ought to require the switch be on the GROUND cable, not the positive, but that's an old post .

They might be able to take a measurement made from the end of the tail shaft, but it'd be better to install the adapter on teh diff, get a yoke, install it, pull it out about 3/4" and measure the u-joint cup center-to-center distance like Lone said. That's typically what they want. I'd think that if they had a yoke in their hand, and you told them how much distance you wanted between bottomed and running (3/4") they could figure it. But why leave that to chance?

Me too. Nitrous is fun, but I'd want the power adder to not go away if I used it much . I know roots blowers are not the best way to go, but the B&M 144 always catches my eye as a moderate power adder. If I could get 75-100 hp out of it with 6-8 psi, that'd be cool. With 9.7:1 I wonder if this is doable on pump gas, as it heats the fuel/air. I also wonder if it would fit under a stock hood with a Holley and a re-routed intake tube from the Holley to a remote filter. Just dreaming.

There may well be enough spline engagement (not that I'd trust it), but the issue is that the u-joint is now spaced back so far that any lateral play in the tranny output shaft will be exaggerated at the u-joint, causing possible vibrations and wear on the output shaft bushing in the tranny.

Tom, thanks for that data. Did you notice a difference in the sound of the exhuast? Was it smoother/more even? I need to clarify my previous post. The pipe in the 90s of my 2.5" Dr. Gas X-pipe may not have been press bent, but it was certainly reduced from the 2.5" inlets/outlets. It looked like either the pipe was press bent, or a smaller pipe was used and then expanded at the ends. It was expanded to accept 2.5" exhaust tubing though.

quote: Originally posted by clint78z: Alot of people scratch their heads when it come to small engines making big HP. What exactly do they do to make a 1.5 put out 800HP. That'd be me . quote: The entire motor is balanced and the usuable rpm is shifted way up. This cuts down on engine life considerably. Sounds like a fine drag race engine, a horrible autocross engine, and a good road race engine (if you can keep it in the power band). Sounds like a TERRIBLE street engine. I guess that's why I like the idea of high 3 liter and bigger engines for turbo use on the street, with low spool rpm. I gotta get a ride in Scottie's car!

Dan, you're welcome! Terry, thanks for the Ph.D. - that's the only way I'll ever have one! . We already have a Dr. Pete though (with the 300ZX V8 conversion .

Mike, check out the Sanderson CC134 - nice 1-3/4" primary, 3" collector block hugger. Available for straight and angle plug heads. Ouch, list for $285 uncoated! I'd get them uncoated, test fit, "tweak", then coat them. Of course, they offer custom services if your really want long tubes. Not sure it's worth it if you're using full exhaust and mufflers.

Ah yes, We've had threads on those vids. Incredible car! Darius has a few posts here describing his car. Check the search engine out for "Darius". Regards, Pete

Pasted (and editted) this from http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000267 , a previous thread on AC: I put AC in my 73. I have an old 327, but the only difference that might make is the compressor and brackets (simple to make). Here's the specs on my system: Sanden 508 compressor with custom brackets Vintage Air P/N 03250-VUC Horizontal Super Flow condenser, 12"tall x 23.9"wide x .83" thick (supposedly 40% more cooling capacity that an similarly sized run-of-the-mill condensor without the micro tube dual pass setup) This fits in the recess of the radiator support that surrounds the radiato opening. Vintage Air R134a hose/drier kit ARA under dash evaporator & box from bought from Courtesy Nissan. This is the same box the Z's came with when they had dealer installed air (I had an old one to compare it to), but it came with a R134 evaporator and expansion valve and a thermostat. I have a GT Mustang cooling fan to help pull through the condensor I also sealed the radiator to the core support and the condensor to it as well. All air entering the condensor must go through the radiator core, and all air pulled through the radiator core must enter through the condensor. The most important part of this setup is the Ford 1985 Full Size LTD blower fan and motor I cobbled into the 240Z fan box. I also sealed the connection between the fan box and the evaporator box well since it is a suck through evaporator setup. This fan pulls about three times as much air as the 240Z fan, by my sloppy experiments. I don't know how well it works since I haven't driven the car yet (paint jail right now - June 2001), but I'll have it done this Summer and report on it. Hope that helps. Let me know if there are any details I left out that interest you.

Heh - how about a set of custom "stepped primary" blockhuggers . Just kidding.

Craig, you've got it. Cut three sides of the tube but leave the forth side intact. The sides that are adjacent to the uncut side get a triangular piece removed, and the side opposite the uncut side gets a rectangle removed, as wide as the triangle. Bend the uncut side to make the angle correct, and weld it up.

A.G., if you just want to print a topic that you are reading (like this page you are looking at now), you can of course select File then Print..., and make sure that the "All pages" button in the print box that pops up is filled in. (This is for Internet Explorer, Netscrape is similar, on a PC anyway.) That will print the html "page" you are viewing, to multiple pages of paper if needed to get all the html "page" in the topic printed. Sorry if you knew this..

Yeah, I guess hard copy would be just do the "Offline" save thing above, then print. I'd rather have it electronically soft on my hard disk or a CD and be able to search though.

There are alot of analogies to the recent discussion of single versus dual plane manifolds and this primary size discussion - the engine is a pump and restrictions really only begin to show up when you're trying to move lots of air/gasses - and too big a cross section will hurt the dynamics of the valves opening and closing, scavenging (or induction). I think that makes sense... If you're not going to be turning the big rpms with large cubes, the bigger primaries won't be really needed up top if you don't really rpm the engine, but will hurt scavenging. ...But Mike's application is more race than street, as he's going for high speed events, etc. And their comment about mufflers lines up with my thinking - if you're going to muffle the car, any gains up top in rpm with 1-3/4" or bigger primaries probably won't be realized. Of course, Mike might want to uncork the exhaust for those high speed runs, so they might be worth it! I guess 3 inch or more duals, few slight mandrel bends, and race mufflers might not hurt the top end much, but at that point it's not too streetable anyway, IMO. Compromises, compromises . Of course, I'm probably confused again

That ought to work, especially if you make it double walled with an air gap.

I'm not sure what it helps, or if it does. You're right, the starter solenoid is still used to both engage the bendix drive and to act as a contactor for the starter motor. If you bypassed the contactor part and fed current to the motor when you energized the starter solenoid, it'd probably grind the teeth as it engaged. One thing that helps is to have a place to tie all your positive wires to away from the starter . Seems I used to know why this was better (using the Ford contactor) but CRS is taking over my memory .

I believe that's a different upgrade that uses the late 280ZX rotor AND CALIPER. That bracket is offset.

They look great on that nice looking painted car! Since these are available and the 5 lug is becoming so popular on these cars, how about putting the offset details on the page for these two wheel designs (front/back). That way someone could come behind you and do something similar if they used the same brake and coilovers, etc. That thing is going to be on the road soon, huh? Be sure to come up to MD to give me a ride .

Chevy High Performance did a series of tests. AFR has some of these articles in their archive http://www.martelbros.com/afr/Articles/article_archives.htm There is this site that has some of the results listed for the series: http://everythingnova.homestead.com/headflow1.html

quote: Originally posted by Ross C: Well it does help if you have a heat soak problem reducing the current/shot to the bendix/etc. Gm being on the starter it can heatsoak and that greatly increases the ee requirements to pull activate the starter. Ford solenoid isn't hot and can put thru current more efficiently in simple terms. http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref4.html But as that site points out: quote That's all it does. The solenoid still has to pull in the bendix, and it still gets heat soaked. Like the site also says, the GM solenoid also still provides current to the starter motor. I'm confused as to how it can help. Current still goes through the GM solenoid contactor contacts. All the Ford "solenoid" (really just a contactor) does is interrupt current to the starter/GM solenoid when the car isn't being started. ...Ohh. Now I read it closer. It says: quote So all that this circuit and Ford part does is let the S terminal on the GM solenoid/contactor get more current when it's hot, IF the wire feeding it was (probably) too small to begin with. I have one anyway . BTW, I have a gear reduction starter and the (Moroso?) air gap heat sheild. Pretty nice piece - it's double walled with an air gap, and there's the air gap between it and the starter as well. Only problem is it covers the top and side of the starter and doesn't sheild it from heat radiating from the exhaust pipe below. Looks like I might have to customize it or put some reflective heat tape on the bottom of the starter. [ May 31, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

You can save the page with each thread (up until it hits 25 posts, then you'd need to save the subsequent pages). If using Internet Explorer, you can save just the page being viewed by clicking File, then Save as and save that web page to view later as an html file. Alternately, you can change the file type to "text" and save just the text. One really slick feature is to save teh linked pages as well. You can do this by adding the page to your "Favorites" and clicking the check box next to Make available offline. Click on Customize... to change the depth at which you want linked pages saved. Pretty cool way to save all the stuff on a site, it seems. I know you can do the "save as" thing with Netscape as well, but I haven't tried to see if it allows saving of the linked pages as easy as IE. Hope that helps.