pparaska

I agree with Ross and Morgan - It's a smooth locker and I don't think that's useful except in a rock crawler or drag-mostly car. I'll stick with my clutch posi, but a good viscous unit would be better - Z32!

From reading their Tech Bulletin, I'd say it could be described as a smooth transitioning Locker. It sounds kind of like it turns into an open rear in a corner, but they say that in a high G corner both wheels get power. I need to study it more to understand that.

Always liked the Manta and Opel GT. A guy used to come into the gas station I worked at in high school (back when attendants had to roam around the pumps to collect gas money) had one with a V8 in it. SWEET! The intercooler pipe feeding that Stage 2 is what, 5" diameter!? Tell us about it, Scottie! Hell of a Hybrid

I haven't read it thoroughly yet, but they have a TECH BULLETIN on their site that touts it's virtues, and says it's not really a locker, as in a Detroit Locker, per se. Looks promising though. It replaces the side and pinion gears (and clutches if equipped) of any diff carrier and no special tools or procedures are required. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

quote: Originally posted by ellobo97: Just off the press!! Power trax is making a No-Slip Traction System for the r200. IT will be out ealier this year, so everyone get out there and contact them ( http://www.powertrax.com ) and show them interest so that we can get it made sooner. Approimate price is 300. Just thought I'd share the wealth. Let me know if anyone else hears stuff as well. sean Looks to me like the Powertrax system replaces the pinion gears of the open diff carrier, or possibly replaces the carrier. So no gear ratios involved, guys. The nice thing is you will be able to take that 3.545 or 3.364:1 open R200, swap the parts into the carrier and leave everything the way it was (leave the pinion where it was, put the carrier side bearing shims back where they were) and the gear pattern on the used gears stays the same. Seems there are a decent number of Open R200s around still in good shape that this would work for! Since it's not a clutch type system, I guess it won't wear out as quickly? Put me in for one! ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Definitely a possibility. The problem (for me) is that the manifolds are expensive, and I don't do TIG to make my own. Having them made is expensive as well. Just wondering if the SDS could use the 4bbl Holley TBI part? BTW, the 4Di does ignition too. I believe it could be set up with crank trigger. I'd be satisfied just leaving the distributor, but locking out the mechanical and vacuum advance for the time being. I guess this question is: Is the SDS is more tunable than the 4Di (for fuell and igntion)? I prefer a laptop tunable system (I think), if it's user friendly enough. I'm decent with computer stuff, so it doesn't scare me away.

As far as I'm aware, SDS is for port injection no? If I need a port injection manifold, I'd need to spend some big bucks. I guess I could use the 4bbl TBI part from Holley (it flows better than the stock offerings) and use it with SDS? That way I could have the other benefits of SDS and a simple injector housing/throttle plate bolt on? I'm REAL IGNORANT of any injection stuff, bear with me, please.

I'm wondering about Holley's 4Di Projection setup. They advertise a 4 bbl one that's 900 cfm good for 350-500 hp. Jegs lists it as PN 510-950-21S. Holley's site is hosed and all the links to it that I can find are broken. A V8Z bud (Glen McCoy) that was over to help with the start of my engine the other day mentioned that he had an older version of it, and for what it cost ($500 then - a slow computer with FI only, no ignition) it was pretty nice on a 350 hp motor. I'm around 350 hp now (according to Desktop Dyno) and I'm thinking that for $1400, everything included (except for some fuel line I'd need to run, maybe), it'd be a nice upgrade from my Mt. Vesuvius carb . I know that it's not multipoint, but I'm not looking for the end all to efficiency, etc. I do want good tuneability though, and I'm looking for info on whether this system has a decent set of features that anyone is aware of from experience, etc. I'm just thinking about doing something like this in the next year.

I have KVR's on my Eclipse, with new calipers and a good bleed. They do need a bit of heat. The Carbotech street pads I had on before made tons of brown dust, squeeled, etc. but bit right away. I miss them when the KVRs are cold (street driving). ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Congrats on the gland nuts! The tubing cutter works great for cutting the tube. But you really need to grind an almost full depth 45-ish degree chamfer on the butt ends of the tube to get a good deep weld. Be real careful to do a good job of welding for strength reasons, and make sure there are no pin holes, as the heat transferring liquid (oil or antifreeze) you put between the cartridge will leak if you don't. (Believe me I know.) And I agree on the disc/wera item issue. I guess you could have a spare cut down set on hand though. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Yep. Stop drilling is an tried and true way of stopping cracks in things that have cyclic loading in particular. A Cymble - well I think that's a cyclic load .

I got that top mount, the bottom mounts and the rad (almost new) from Jim Biondo for about $50! The top mount is just two pieces of Al sheet, about 1/8" thick, welded together in an L shape cross section, with tabs for mounting a fan. The outside corner weld joint that's visible was ground smooth. I got it and then "brushed" it with some rough sandpaper.

1st suggestion: Buy a JTR manual and read it about 5 times (it's pretty short). Unfortunately, they are presently out of print. 2nd suggestion: Start way back at the beginning of the Chevy V8 Forum and read all the relavent posts, as well as those in the drivetrain forum. 3rd suggestion: Well you've already done it, but keep on asking questions here! ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

I really doubt that a stagger off the line is from too little fuel volume. I'd go after the accelerator pump adjustments.

V8 VPR, Sorry, I read that real quick at work the other day and didn't have an answer. But I have something to check for on that disappearing tranny fluid - That sounds exactly like what happens when the vacuum shift modulator (little can on the tranny that a vacuum line hooks to) diaphragm gets a hole in it. The engine starts sucking the tranny dry. Notice any smoke in the exhaust lately? BTW, the part is pretty cheap and easy to change. It could be that the low fluid was causing the car to vibrate as well. Good Luck.

I'm "this close" to buying Mark's MR-2 and and 240Z front Illuminas, but I need to know something: I have sectioned my strut tubes 1.5" front and back and I currently have the Rabbit strut cartridge in the front. Will the MR-2 cartridge fit? Ground Control said they might be longer than the Rabbit piece. Are the MR-2 and Rabbit struts the same length (below the gland nut that holds them in the tube)? Thanks for any help ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Roamer, Thanks for the compliments! No AL old style SBC block from the factory ever (that I've ever heard of in 23 years of hotrodding), but there are some aftermarket ones out there that are expensive as hell. Not worth the savings. They are usually beefed up so the weight savings goes down as well. Trick, but pricey. Add the weight savings is less than 100 lbs, I've read. From : http://www.mortec.com/borstrok.htm 302 = 4.000" x 3.00" (5.7" rod) 305 = 3.740" x 3.48" (5.7" rod) 307 = 3.875" x 3.25" (5.7" rod) 325 = 3.780" x 3.62" ('99-later "LM7" 5.3 Liter Vortec) 327 = 4.000" x 3.25" (5.7" rod) 350 = 4.000" x 3.48" (5.7" rod) Note that you'd need a 307 not a 305 crank to do a large journal 327 with a 350 block. Probably not easy to find. There were large journal 327s made in 68 and 69, also rare. (Ross has one!). Anyway, you'd probably want a large journal crank to use large journal rods, although there are some good aftermarket rods made in small journal sizes, and special bearings are available to put the small journal crank into the large journal block. I believe I've seen aftermarket cranks in 3.25" stroke also, but all this aftermarket stuff CAN (not always) be pricey. Don't discount the idea of a light pistoned 350 though. Built with light forged steel rods and light pistons, this motor can rev quickly as well. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

I have the Autometer Pro-Comp In-dash 5" tach in my 240Z. I cobbled it onto the stock Tach bezel at a near stock tach face "depth" in the dash. For turn signal indicators, I installed some small green indicator lights from RadioShack. The are a threaded shank with a nut. I simply drilled a hole on either side of the stock bezel, in front of the clear plastic, and put the nut on the outside. Doesn't look O.E., but it works. Wired them to the wire for the O.E. indicator sockets. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Scca (Mike) - Looks like inches to me. Look hard for the decimal point, kind of hard to make out. Danno, email them and I'll host them. I may have to start taking some pics down soon (like Drax's [Drew's old] Z, etc.).

Roamer, welcome! I think if you are going the SBC route, things will be much cheaper with an LT1 or older engine. The Lt1 has a broad torque band, but it won't rev to 7k without alot of money in the valvetrain. A cheaper way to go would be an old style buildup with good forged rods, good bolts (rod, main, etc.), aluminum heads (AFR, twisted wedge, etc.), aluminum water pump, aluminum manifold. Of course, I'm assuming that you'd carb it to do it cheaper. If you want EFI ,that's more money for sure. You've got to ask yourself whether you really need that last 5% of horsepower and the tunability of EFI, for the price. Deals can be had though to help this out - just ask Ross! For the money, the carb is it for me - until I get rich or something. Still, an iron block SBC with AL parts is a halfway light motor (about 525 lbs or less, I believe) for all the displacement capability. Compare it to a 2.8 or 3.1L L6 and you'll see what I mean. Plus the CG placement issues. The Ford SB is lighter though, by 75-100 lbs, I believe. It's hard to compare weights exactly from the published numbers, as everyone includes different parts on the engine. I agree that a solid flat or roller cam with good springs, light pushrods, light rockers and maybe even titanium valves will be needed to reliably turn 7000+. THe issue is that you probably don't need the extra 500-800 rpm over the 6500 rpm that cheaper parts will give you. All these engines can be built to give 300 hp and rev to 7000. It just depends on which way you want the power. The SBC and SBFord can do it normally aspirated in a very simple and streetable fashion. The smaller engines can do it with either unstreetable huge cam, etc., or forced induction. My opinion is that a simple, crude, NA V8 can make 300 rwhp easily, cheaply, and it's very robust and driveable. No worry's about octane, too-lean -for-a-second-under-boost piston damage, etc. that high boost smaller turbo engines have. But it's so low tech, some people don't want it. The Turbo L28 with forged parts is a very effective way to do this. Not sure you could do a Forged piston L28T with all the reliablity upgrades I'd want to keep the 300+rwhp running for $4k total swap cost though. But as Morgan said, you can buy a few shortblocks from the yards and just dispose of them as you break/wear them out if you go too lean or otherwise detonate. Not the way I'd want to do things, but it's a workable scenario. Just my opinions, others are SURE to vary. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

I'm a proponent of OE fans. There is NO WAY that the aftermarket has as much to lose on a bad/insufficient fan design as the OE's do. The OE's spend time testing the cars in the desert with A/C blasting etc. The aftermarket (except maybe SPAL) only care about selling to us guys, and there's alot of hype about their products, IMO I have a 98 GT Mustang fan mounted to custom mounts for the Camaro radiator that JTR says to use. Yeah, a Griffin would be great insurance, and I advise going that route, but I got a deal on this rad and I'm going to give it a go. Check my web page HERE to see how I mounted it. Not alot of detail, but the method of mounting will be different since I have the custom top radiator bracket the fan is mounted to. Whatever radiator you get, try to get the connector and wiring that went with it. Even get teh control module, as it has some nice high current relays in it to use with the fan. The Mustang fan I have pulls 35 amps at 12 volts! Nothing to sneeze at. Use 10 gage or larger wire, or the fan won't get enough juice, if the wiring is long at all. As for thermostats for the fan, JET products (available from speed shops, Jeg's, etc.) have fan switches in several temperature ranges that thread into SAE pipe thread holes on GM V8s. Randy 77zt - when did the TSB replacement fan start coming on the production Mustang GT? I'm wondering if I bought my fan new from Ford in 99 and I asked for a 98 GT Mustang fan, did I get the new design (the TSB'd design) or the old one. Can you get me a part number on the TSB replacement fan? Thanks. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages [This message has been edited by pparaska (edited January 04, 2001).]

Not near the car, but that IRS from Ryane is available from 56" hub to hub. What's the Z? I'd think the 8.8" Ford diff should be plenty for everybody but RON JONES . That's a pretty decent price! [scotty - I stole the "bolded" URL idea from ya. I think it looks good. Sets a nice "standard" for signature here.] ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages [This message has been edited by pparaska (edited January 04, 2001).]

Cool. As I've read before, and you've again reiterated it - the guys at Ground Control are on the ball... ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Mike, I'm glad someone researched this and found the unfortunate truth - 17s are needed if you want wide (255+) Z(+)rated tires in the near future. Oh well. So what tires and wheels? Got any places to look at picts of the wheels you're getting? How heavy are the Ultra Hipo tires in 17s, over 16s, (for the same section width and overall diameter) and what about the wheel weight differences? ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Mike, I don't know if you realize this or not, but for you and those that might not know, I'll put it here: There is a reason that the rear springs are stiffer on many cars - to avoid pitching harmonics when you hit bumps. If the front and rear rates are the same, somewhat regardless of the weight distribution front to rear, you get into a problem with pitching of the car (for/aft). Puhn covers this, but I haven't read that book in a while. But this is what I remember reading in this and other suspension books. It has to do with the speed at which you hit bumps and the difference in the spring rates. I would think that shock rates front to rear would also be an issue, but shock manufacturers probably factor this in and make the rear shocks (nee cartridges) a bit stiffer than the rears. Just some food for thought. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages