pparaska

I don't know for sure, but I'm 99% sure that dimension is the same. I think all the differences are in the strut tube. I believe the casting below the tube is the same part(s).

Ross, no doubt, I haven't run the calcs. I have Puhn, but I'd love to see your analysis - sounds interesting. I'd guess that weight has a linear effect on needed brake sizing, maybe more. I was factoring the weight of what I think Mike's car would be (2800 with driver and fluids) and it just seems that over 12 inches with 1.25" wide rotors and ducting would do the job. But you're right, if your planning on 180 mph and the possiblity of having to panic slow/stop, run the numbers.

Two piece: I've tried the Mr. Gasket steel one - it leaked. Now I'm trying the pressed Aluminum version the Edelbrock makes. I see no reason that it should leak, since they've addressed the issue of having bolts around the bottom. I'll post a report when I get it on, as I'm still making oil pan decisions. Timing pointer: To really make use of the two piece cover, I decided that a block mounted timing pointer that could stay in place while the 1 piece of the 2 piece cover was removed made sense. I made one that bolts to those two bolt bosses on the block to the right of the timing cover when viewed from the front. This way, you can even leave the balancer intact, and the timing pointer doesn't need to be calibrated to actual TDC again. you just remove the bolts that hold the 1 piece on, and rotate it to the left. BTW, those two sets of two bolt bosses on either side of the lower timing cover area are for the old style (50s) cars and some of the later large trucks. Thrust button: That's only needed if you use a roller cam. The flat tappet cams are ground with a slop in the lobes (front up to rear) to push the cam back in the block. The roller does not have this slope, and needs a way of pushing the cam aft. They're very easy to install and use though. [This message has been edited by pparaska (edited January 25, 2001).] [This message has been edited by pparaska (edited January 25, 2001).]

Cool, what catalog?

Sorry, I don't have any hub-to-hub measurements. BLKMGK, good point. Find a proven road race setup with the MII stuff and talk the person's ear off!

Yep, I was on Allied or some other electronics vendor site and saw those. I'd thought about making my own strips and I might do that. Anybody ever seen Clear LEDs that put out white light? They may not exist as this might not be possible with how LEDs make photons.

Ross, I know the solid lifters aren't needed for my purposes, I just like the sound and the solid connection. Pulling the valve covers every few 10K miles to adjust them will be fun, since it's easy to get at and the Pro Magnum rockers are so nice to work on. I adjusted them all last night in less than 20 minutes and it was SO EASY to get at and do. I only like one thing squishy and it doesn't have to do with a car Seriously, it's like the LS1 and Mustang II suspension discussions of late - I don't NEED solid lifters, I just WANT them. UncleEd, I'd look into whether that engine can run the OE rollers - rollers are definitely the way to a broad torque band. And there's nothing more fun on the street for day-to-day driving than a broad torque curve, IMO. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Jamie, that GTO is going to ROCK with that motor. I look forward to following the buildup. Man, I'd love to be able to go into the basement and turn something on a lathe! Maybe in retirement I'll get those toys ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Roller Cams: The difference in the lobe shapes between a roller and flat tappet cam has much more to do with the kinematics of how a flat tappet and a roller operate on a cam than with what kind of linear valve lift ramps the cam is designed for. If a flat tappet and a roller cam were designed to have the same exact valve lift/duration curve, the lobe shapes (profiles) would be very different only because of the kinematics of how they work. But a roller cam can be designed to have more area under the lift/duration curve than a flat tappet, for the same valve spring requirements. That's where the broad power curve comes from. The roller cam, even a mild one will give a wider power band for the same valve spring requirements. Plus there is less friction, so less lost power, and they wear much better for aggressive grinds. Most of the aftermarket companies make roller lifters that can be fit into the old non-roller blocks. I hear that the Comp Cams retro hydaulic lifters are very heavy though. The solid ones are lighter. But I don't know if you can get and Extreme Energy mechanical roller setup, as it's not advertised. I'd bet you can't just put their regular hi-po solid roller lifters on an Extreme Energy hydraulic roller cam, but who knows - worth a call to the tech line. Personally, I prefer solid lifters.

Morgan, good points on the things we know. But this sounds so much like the LS1/T56 thread on the Chevy forum. If he wants something different, knowing everything he's trading one way or another, even if it's just to do things differently, that's a valid choice too. Very much along the lines of what American hotrodders started doing over 50 years ago. I say do some research on the MII stuff to see what the roll center (excellent point), camber curve, bumpsteer, scrub radius, wheel/tire/brake posibilities are before making solid plans and buying anything. The Z suspension with upgrades works wonderfully (beyond the talents of many drivers) and it'd be a shame to do this swap to MII and have lost some performance or driveability in the process. Then again, the journey down the research road is half the fun! And if you learn something to help them design a system that's better in some aspect important to you from the Z stuff, then all the better!

Uhh. yeah, I need to get working on those gages! BTW, that dented bezel can be rotated so it can be on the bottom and not really noticeable.

I've heard it from at least one T56 user that they'd not do a T-56 next time. I'll let them chime in if they want. No doubt 6 speeds aren't needed on a wide torque band motor like a V8. In fact, I'd love a four speed with 4th being an overdrive! That's essentially what I have, since the Tremec first gear is 3.27, and I have a 3.7:1 rear. Close ratio transmissions are great for drag racing if the engine is built to a narrow powerband. But on the street, I agree, fewer widely spaced gear ratios (provided you have adequate and broad rpm torque) is preferable. The T56 is just the easy way to get a tough good shifting trans behind a SBC. I went the Tremec route to get a tough trans, before I'd heard all the bad stuff about shift quality. The tiny bit I've driven it with cold gear lube showed it to shift fine, even with the stock (infamously crappy) shifter. No telling yet how it will work when asked to shift quickly in spirited driving. I think the T-5 is underrated and I wished I'd gone that route, actually.

No doubt, read a couple of suspension books. The double A-arm system, WHEN DESIGNED CORRECTLY, will give much better camber curves, wheel scrub, etc. than a strut. The question is whether the aftermarket MII stuff has been designed with all this in mind. The other issue is that to get these designs right, you need to start with a tire diameter at the least, and a wheel offset is also important. So if they designed it, they needed to start somewhere - find out what wheel tire is optimal for that setup. Then again, the struts will do just fine for me. I'd LOVE to have a new BMW M3, struts and all!

Mike, sorry to hear you got slowed down again. Please hold on to the 240Z gland nuts if they don't want them back - I may need them.

Mike (scca), what are pad wipers, and how do the work/install? TIA

I have a friend that's an expert in Chaos Theory (nothing to do with Get Smart ), but I don't think that's needed here. I'd think the reason for this would be to keep the front end from "searching" for an equilibrium in left/right wander due to time-varying drag of the tires, wheel bearings, brakes, etc. Things aren't static as you drive straight, so maybe it won't wonder as much if the wheels are staggered and the drag on each side varies a bit. Talk about a SWAG!...

I have to agree. 12" would be plenty. There might be some benefit in going with a curved vane rotor, but I'd definitely fab up some strut housing mounted cooling hose fittings in place of the OE dust sheild and run it to the air dam. Unsprung weight is the enemy.

Jamie, Welcome! What do you "fabricate"? ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

I haven't seen anyone mention this yet, so I will. I have no info on this, but wondering: Does the suspension geometry of the MII setup have any decent attributes? MII stuff was used for years by the street rod crowd to stuff something better than a straight axle (and lighter) under the old cars. I'm not sure it has a geometry that's good or not. But I'd certainly consider that before moving too far. The good thing is, the picture shows a double wishbone setup - superior in camber curve tuneability, but only if designed correctly. I'd look very closely into what the camber and bumpsteer curves are for these MII setups. I'd hope for all the money in that design, they've optimized this somewhat. I noticed that the Art Morrison IFS is tauted as being designed for zero bumpsteer. Maybe these guys do hav it together. Sorry for my ignorance on this Street Rod stuff, but I just wanted to raise a warning flag that all that shiny stuff may be all looks and not really designed with optimal handling in mind. Buyer beware. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

I've very interested in doing this. I looked around for LEDs that had high power in a long strip, but didn't find anything that wasn't expensive. I have some European 240 tail lights (from DrewZ - Thanks!) that I'd love to put bright LEDs in. I have them apart, so that's not an issue. I'd really like to find LEDs that put out white light, since the red lenses cut down on the brightness. And I have yellow turn signal lenses as well. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Yes, the bellhousings are different, the LS1 is unique. There may be other differences. Search the Drivetrain forum, this has been discussed.

ALL CAPS don't really tick me off, but it's so much harder to read, I generally just don't and skip it.

O.k., Thanks I needed the incentive to document that (the spot caliper mod). Here it is: http://members.home.net/pparaska/brakemods.htm

Evan, interested in your stealth approach. I want just decent tunes in my Z, but I'd like it to be clean and efficent. Tubes, bud, I love tubes. I loved my old Fender Tube Amp, Les Paul (copy), heck even the Peavey Mace Tube amp was kick a$$.... Fuzz box, who needs a stinking fuzz box, just turn up the tube amp! Oops, sorry for the flashback... my old age is showing again...

I got my AZ Z car brakes used. Jim Biondo used them for several thousand miles and a number of road track days and was pleased. I've only tested them from a 25 mph speed . (Just got the car running, but not really driveable yet.) The stuff is light! The fronts involve Wilwood Dyanlite calipers (4 piston), a caliper spacer (about 1/2" bar stock with two holes), a custom rotor center to bolt to the Z hub, and a standard 11.5" Wilwood straight vane vented disc. The rear is the old design, Wilwood caliper (light!), off the shelf rotor hat, and cross drilled, non-vented disc. Custom flat (but hogged out) bracket. No parking brake. I made up parking/emergency brakes with custom brackets and mechanical spot calipers from Wilwood. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages