pparaska

Pour dry ice on the floor and spread it out. Wait for the metal to cool. Hammer the underside with a rubber mallet.

Well, after a few thousand miles with the 327 that turned a 1.9+sec 60-foot, 12.78 sec, 110.4 mph quarter, I was definitely ready for more. Don't let anyone tell you that they have too much power. That rarely happens. You have enough torque/power when there is so much at every useable point in the rpm band you use that it scares you to use all the pedal in all situations. You can quote me on that!

Tim - I think that was a joke - see the "haha"?

Great point! Don't build the engine until the last step. Start with a plan, work on the chassis/structure and move forward, not buying until you need the parts. DavyZ - what do you think?

Wow - great minds think alike! BTW' date=' if anyone wants plans for those, they are here: http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm I got that idea years ago from a guy who built a GTO250 bodied 280Z. He was cracking the fiberglass off the car everytime he lifted a corner of the car with a jack, so he came up with this idea. I agree on the street cage thing a bit - I see people with cage tubes right next to them in the car, with no padding, and I cringe thinking about banging into those in a minor wreck. rags here on HybridZ.org has a well hidden stiffening cage built into his V8Z. I'll let him explain it. If any of you remember the old Z Club of America Z Bulletin, there was an article on the guy who built those hidden cages. Wish I still had my copy. I have the subframe connectors and a modified S&W partial "8-point" kit in my Z, minus the door bars. Hoop, safety belt bar, hoirzontal supports for the hoop to the tunnel, and downbars from the hoop to the strut towers. Those modifications were enough to elicit an unsolicited comment from a long-time ITS Z car racer that the chassis/uni-body felt quite stiff for a Z as we road around in the car.

You will need a different radiator than the one that JTR sells/lists for 400+ hp - especially if you go with A/C. My 406 spent 20 miles behind the 84-86 Camaro radiator. It ran very hot even taking it easy in 95 degree heat high humidity. On johnc's recommendation, I went with a C&R Racing radiator. It's a 20" core, dual pass, 19" tall, about 23" overall width. Beautiful piece. Also, please read through my site and do a lot of reading in the different forums here on HybridZ (and the personal sites of people who post here) before finalizing your plans. For instance, to me driveline vibration in V8Zs is a real issue and very annoying. I went through a bunch of trouble getting my u-joint angles small and equal to get around this. One part that allowed that to happen is the Ron Tyler diff mount (not the AZ Zcar part). It lowers the front of the diff (key for getting the u-joint angles small with a JTR conversion) and provides isolation and compresses the mount (GM or urethane aftermarket) under acceleration. The solid AZ Zcar front diff mount will transmit vibrations and not lower the front of the diff as much. The radiator and diff mount are just two of the little bits of info that are out there that go beyond the JTR book and provide other and sometimes better routes to go in the conversion. The JTR book is a great start, but not the last word. BTW, the DAT-402C headers ARE THE ONES TO USE if you are doing D-port angle plug heads and want to stay with block huggers. (What isn't available is a long tube header that fits well for lowered Zs - the S&S streetrod header hangs too low). The JTR DAT-402C headers match the D-port well (specify that when ordering), work with any angle plug layout, and are very nice (Sanderson) pieces. They fit well. The only issue with fitment COULD be the name tag on the driver side header is kind of close to the steering rod - you can grind it off pretty easily - but JTR should get Sanderson to leave that name tag off one of the headers to get around this and have the coating kept intact in that area. I looked around at all the block huggers available and these are the only ones that I could find anyone say actually fit the D-port and the low angle plug heads I have (Canfield) and also fit the Z in the JTR position. If you're going with standard port straight plug heads, the typical hooker block hugger headers work fine. Do a lot of research on these forums and you'll save money and end up with a better conversion than just jumping in. Just some friendly advice,

Well, that wimpy L6 you're used to will probably be o.k. with that solution (just kidding!!!) People doing the JTR V8 swap will want to consider the Ron Tyler front diff mount solution, as it lowers the diff farther than the other solutions, allowing the u-joint angles for the driveshaft to be 1 degree and equal. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=72351

Just went through this - see JTR's site. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=564357#post564357 They sell the Sanderson headers (CC5 for D-port) for $300 versus Sanderson's price of $375 (coated in both cases).

Progress report: The JTR part number DAT-402C for D-port heads (Sanderson CC5 for D-port) are a good match to the ports in the Canfields, and fit very nicely in the JTR position. The Sanderson name tag on the collector is right next to the steering shaft. You may want to grind that off (easy - it's welded on at the ends of the tag, about 3/4" long welds). That will of course break through the coating. My suggestion to JTR is to have Sanderson leave the tag off of one header. In my install, which has the motor mount bolt all the way forward in the long slot I put in the stock crossmember mounting tower where the hole is originally (as per JTR manual), the tag is 1/8" away from the steering shaft. If your engine is installed further back, the clearance should increase. The other differences from the JTR headers are that the collectors come out in slightly different positions relative to the hooker headers, within 3/4" on each side for/aft, within an inch side-to-side. The collector flanges are angled 30 from horizontal (the hookers are close to horizontal). The collector flange rotates on the collector. The headers come with header bolts and thick collector flanges. I used no gaskets at the collectors and it seems to seal. I tried a copper gasket but it just got distorted and looked like it may actually cause a leak. The Sanderson instructions say to use 598B Ultra gasket silicone and no gaskets on the head/header surface. This seams to work well in my limited use so far.

I see it posted often that the 280Z chassis is stiffer than the 240Z, but I often wonder by how much. Does anyone have any torsional and bending stiffness numbers to show that this is as vast a difference as to make it worth worrying about? The other thing is that many times if you are going to go past 300hp, or have rust in structural areas (almost always do unless it's a real rust free desert car), then structural mods like subframe connectors and roll cage may take a lighter 240Z past (stiffness and strength-wise) where a stock 280Z is (I believe this to be true, but no numbers), and in the "good enough" range. So if a stiffened Z is the end result, I think a 240Z or early 260Z makes sense. The other thing to consider is that the 73+ Zs had intermittent wipers, and the 280Z had A/C from the factory. If you don't care about that, a 240Z can be used. If you do care, then using a 280Z may be more to your liking. If it is to be a drag car with a full cage and frame, I say use a 240Z to start with as the shell is just along for the ride. Mike Knell's book (jtr) goes into the other aspects (ease of modifying the wiring, etc.).

David, that's great news! You will enjoy the A/C. The GPS speedo is kinda neat, but you can figure your speed with the tach and gearshift too. I'll be around all weekend and Monday, give me a call!

The Canfield heads have the plugs rotated from straight out, but in about the same plane as the head/block mating surface. If they pointed up (wire end) they would fit the block huggers better. I'd do the S&S full length if they weren't so low and fit around the Canton RR pan. Update: When you build a 400 (maybe a 383 also), and use the Milodon Diamond Stripper Windage Tray made for the regular SBC (PN 32250), (and maybe the stroker version too - PN 32255), it probably clears the rods and crank even with a typical I-beam rod. But if you use a typical SBC pan, like the old Chevy Vette pan, the pan may push the edge of the tray toward the crank when it's bolted on. The tray comes close to the pan rail, and if the pan side is too far in from the pan rail, it can push the tray edge over toward the rotating assembly, causing the rod nut to hit the edge of the tray. I had Dykem'ed the sides and rails of the pan, and installed it on the engine with the tray installed. Turned the crank and at first it stopped near TDC, then continued turning. I turned it through this area a few more times to leave a nice mark in the Dykem. Pulled the pan and saw where the tray had rubbed the pan in a few spots and thought nothing of it. Continued to look for other interference on the Dykem'd areas, to no avail. I finally saw the rod nut through the crack between tray edge and the pan rail. I rotated the engine and there was no interference there (with the pan off). Measured from the oil pan stud to the tray edge and it measured 5/16". Went over to the pan and the dimension from the inside edge of the bolt hole in that area to the pan side was 3/8". Tada! That's what must be happening. The pan gets bolted on and pushes the tray inward making the rod nut hit the tray. Nothing some tin snips on the tray edge can't fix! I was actually relieved as I didn't want to start beating on the pan for fear of moving the rail around and making the pan leak there. BTW, I really wish ARP would send their main stud kits with SIX tray studs instead of FIVE. Sure the stock tray uses 5 but several of the nicer windage trays use 6 and I've had to special order a separate tray stud and nuts twice now. I just noticed that Moroso sells a main stud kit (PN38210) with 6 tray studs. Supposedly, the headers (JTR DAT-402C - Sanderson CC5 for D-port heads) will show up today or tomorrow. I paid for Red Label UPS which ate up the $75 I saved getting them from JTR instead of Sanderson.

Bill, this is great info. I'm on the phone with JTR now as they are $300 from them and Sanderson sells them for $375 (both coated). Greg at JTR is checking if he has D-port ones in stock. Greg tells me that the CC5 (DAT-402C) come in standard and D-port, so be careful when ordering. Thanks! (Quite an FAQ we are getting on blockhuggers here)

I may want to look at them. But from what I've read Sanderson doesn't have a block hugger that fits our app... Just talked to Andy at TTC. He is very apologetic and said send them back and he'll refund me. I figured this, as they have a great rep for customer service. He agreed about Patriot changing the port design on the 8019. He wasn't aware of it until now - he had grabbed a set this am after getting my message and saw that the opening is not a good match for a D-port, although it would seal. I think this is a pretty recent design change by Patriot that got in under the radar at TTC until now. Before I could ask, Andy said he'd change the picture on their web site to not show that nice D-port shape like they have up presently (11 August 2005). That's what I call good customer service! Since Mike kz just told me that the 8037 fit the angle plugs but needed another joint on the driver's side around the steering shaft (something I don't think I should have to do for a simple block hugger), I've decided to try to use the 8019 headers by dimpling for spark plug clearance and using Accel 0414S header plugs that are the cold 3/4" extended reach 5/8" plug that replace the Autolite 3924 that Canfield says to use.

Thanks, Mike. I was hoping the 8037s would drop in. I don't want to have to mess with another joint. That seems like something I shouldn't have to do on a simple block hugger design. I am about at my wit's end with this. All I want is a block hugger that will fit and work with Canfield angle plug. I can see now that I'm going to have to dent the tubes on the 8019 to allow them to fit (probably won't take much if I use shorter plugs, which accell makes for 3/4" reach 5/8" plugs like the 3924.

Looks like Jim (BLKMGK) found that the rewarder BH1020 didn't fit - hit on passenger side. I wonder if the others are the same way - they have many.

Has anyone used Patriot/TTC 8037 headers in 240-280Z? They are angle plug headers that look to have the room needed for angle plugs on the Canfield heads. I realize that the 8019's will work with Chevy Angle plug heads, but the Canfields won't work with them - the center sparkplugs hit the outer pipes. Since the 8019's I've gotten from TTC aren't really D-port shape, (but MIGHT seal a D-port), I figure there's nothing to lose by going with the 8037 over them, but I'll gain plug clearance. What I need to know is if they hit the steering shaft, etc. Thanks,

Since the Canfield heads are "different" angle plug heads, even the 8019 header has an interference with standard length plugs. I MAY order a set of 8037, which are just "Angle plug" headers. But their design is different to allow just about any angle plug head from the loos of it. (see my thread "Pi$$ed..." in Exhaust forum). I just need plumbing from the port to the exhaust that will fit in the bay without hitting and allow the plugs to fit. Port blockage, etc. is just secondary at this point. Hopefully the 8037s will fit without hitting. UPDATE: For those thinking about the Patriot/TTC 8037, Mike kZ used these but they hit the steering shaft, so he added another u-joint to the shaft to get around it. (I didn't want to mess with that. I found out from Zolden in this thread that JTR's Dat-402C (Sandersone CC5) blockhugger headers are available as real D-port heads, and they fit all angle plug heads and don't interfere with the mounts or steering shaft. They may interfere with the bottom of some aftermarket heads though - just get out the grinder . I can see in my crystal ball a custom set of headers being built this Winter....

BTW, with the Canfield heads (mine are the 215s) the standard length Autolite 3924 plug hits the pipe. A shorter Accel header plug MIGHT work, but I'd probably have to drop the headers to change those too... What's crazy is that the TTC (Patriot) angle plug header 8037 is made the correct way to use angle plug heads with no problem. The front and back ports have the tube going to the outer part of the collector, the middle ports to the inner 2 tubes nearest the head. Why Patriot went back to the straight plug pipe arrangement for the "fit D-port head" (seal might be a better term to use, and maybe just barely) 8019 header is beyond me. It is better than my Hooker 2001s, due to them angling the piping differently into the collector, but not really enough to work well. The 8019 may work with GM angle plug heads, but definitely not Canfields and maybe not other angle plug heads. They WOULD if they had just kept the pipe arrangement like the 8037... I was going to have to grind the cone off below the flange on the 8019 anyway and the 8037 is just a 3 bolt flat flange that I can use easier. I think I'll have TTC rush me a set of 8037C's and be done with this. At least the plugs will go in!! But I wonder how much worse the flange/port fit is on those with D-port heads? I'll ask. My further research on the topic of angle plug D-port heads here on HybridZ is giving no joy. The Sanderson CC1HO MAY work, the Hedman 68409 MAY work. Nothing else has turned up yet. If I find a good D-port angle plug block hugger I will be sure to post in this thread and will probably go back to some of the other related ones and post there too...this has got to be an FAQ...

I'd imagine they are the CC1HO headers you saw?

Dude, you can always retire to being a stand up comedian - very funny - I needed that!

Just so we have a round-robbin of threads connected at one point: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=85266&highlight=D-port+header Search Search Search! I was looking for quick info the other night and found the TTC header being advertised as a good fit and great service from the company. I should have searched farther. Oh well, I hope someone finds this stuff useful in the future...

On the gaskets, I used Earl's pressuremasters They work great - never had a leak. The inserts will tear apart when you remove them, but are replaceable - and almost as expensive as the entire gasket with the AL holder.

I searched before, but somehow missed this. Too bad I didn't see this before and know that the TTC 8019 is the Patriot H8019: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84564&highlight=D-port+header Dan's already been here and done this...

Well, they used to be D-port, maybe. The 8019 ones I got were oval port: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=561371#post561371