badjuju

I'll read up on it, but my buddy is doing the same setup on his volvo, and he bought a set of 7 coils, meaning his 4 cylinder volvo engine will leave 3 left, which i could buy from him for cheap. is it possible to do it this way?

I'm thinking about running a 36-1 wheel, a daughtercard (for the vr conditioning circuit), and 3 coil packs for spark. This would only work, however, if the pistons were at tdc in pairs. ie, are pistons 1 and 4 at tdc at the same time? (given, these would not be on the same strokes)

also, i think that if i just went to the setup where i have to use mt and mt-sns (like the pics in TonyD's and Moby's setups), it would be easier, just so that i can directly copy the settings, because there are some things in megatune that really confuse me. tomorrow i'll draw up my wiring diagrams. hwoever, i still need my previous questions answered, i'm so lost in this setup right now.

I'll draw up a wiring diagram when I get home, but I'm pretty sure I have my pullup resistors in the right way... Unless... Are resistors directional? If my CAS is bad, is there any way it would have run with the stock system? If this doesn't spark by this weekend, I'm going to look at doing a 30-1 wheel and running 3 coils, and using wasted spark. I need this car running by summer, and this 81 CAS stuff with msns-e... well, I'm not sure I'm pioneer enough to finish it. That's another thread for another week though. I'll just keep this post related to what i'm doing now.

K, i've been having a hell of a time just getting this baby to spark. I am using a 4 pin GM HEI module with an 81 cas. If, in megatune, I am not getting any rpm signal while cranking, should i still expect my ignition module to fire? In the msns installation guide, the instructions say to jumper IDL to FIDLE. If i am not using a relay board, do i still have to somehow short IDL to FIDLE? if so, how do i do this?

after loading extra024s13c, i get no options under spark. it's just greyed out. has anyone else experienced this? i have no idea why i can't edit my spark settings, i always thought it would go away when i plugged ms into my computer and turned it on.

It is possible, and I think it has been done before. Try reading up at http://www.turbobricks.com a buddy of mine is doing it in the next year with a volvo marine engine in a 242. it's a cool concept, the Mitsubishi evo 9 actually sells with antilag as a feature in japan.

bought a preassembled, diyautotune.com

bought a GM closed element for coolant and an open element for AIT, but only the coolant is giving weird measurements. sounds like a bad sensor then?

I'm getting ~280 degrees F for my coolant reading, though the engine is cold and hasn't even been started up with ms yet. i switched the +and- of the sensor and it changed to 271... does the wiring matter, and why would I be getting these readings?

I just noticed I have 3 active threads on the first page of this thread section, and decided to just reuse this one... When I open MegaTune, i get an error: WARNING:MSnS-extra.ini:0202 - Constant definition for "ignmode" has too many parameters 11, 10 expected. I've searched on this on both hybridz and msefi.com, but i can't seem to find how to remedy this... any knowers out there? tia alec denson

I'll post a pic, I just put mine in this week; I put it in my lexxan spacer, drilled two holes of different sizes, one all the way through for the actual element, then one 5/8" about halfway down, then put blue gasket stuff on the inside and screwed my iat sensor in. We'll see how it works as i tune.

Sorry, my question was which side of the ignition module does the fidle go to? i should have reworded it

I can't download mt version 2.25b358 to veiw msns-e 021u settings.... can't find it anywhere, not even on mt's site. does anyone have the install? email is alecdenson@hotmail.com

K, I have the file downloaded, and I can read it with all the most current files installed, but the table comes out like this: KPa % 11 105 110 111 115 117 117 113 110 109 108 106 103 6 99 105 106 108 110 111 110 107 105 104 102 99 208 99 102 104 107 110 110 111 110 108 107 104 102 etc... the kpa values go up to down as follows: 11,6,208,7,12,255,100,0,10,1,3,69 and the rpm goes left to right: 1200,2000,3000,4000,200,500,200,10000,20000,1600,100,1500. So i'm going to install megatune in a different directory with 021u, and hope it turns out better... meanwhile, moby, these are your settings with 450cc/min, but i only have 311 cc/min... i was going to use your stock tune to do this, because it's my first time. any suggestions?

K after remaking my relay cable twice more, With the same results, I made a wiring harness out of the relays sent to me with the box, using this diagram: sorry if that didn't come out right, never posted a pic on this forum before. anyways, the cute little bastard clicks on my relays, and it now communicates with my laptop. now i've just got questions about setup. in megatune, as i go to input moby's tables from the install guide, i notice that his table has 8 columns for different rpm, while my table has 12. How do i get my table down to 8x8 from 12x12?

I do not have a stim board, but I am planning on running msns 024s13c. Is the switch supposed to be on when you are tuning? what about when you're putting new code in it? is the new code (msns024s13c) the same as firmware?

I'll search up about this tonight, but i'm having some issues... Relay board PCB 2.2 Homeade Relay cable I plugged in my relay board to my MS box using my homeade cable, and one of the relays started clicking, while simultaniously the first two lights (INJ and Warm UP) flickered on and off. I plugged the box into my laptop to no avail. I went to the testing part of Megatune, and it said there is no connectivity. Does this look like a problem with my COM Port setup (i've never used any com ports extensively, and this laptop's com port has never been used), or does it look like i royaly f'd something up?

I'm using the stock ignition coil, which side does the fidle go to?

I need to jumper the FIDLE relay on my relay board, but I don't know which terminal is which. Could someone take a quick minute and type up which ones I should jumper to use it for triggering?

Or would it be a problem to just leave the power the way it is, use a voltage meter to decide current flow, ignore the +12v injector power terminals, modify the stock resistor pack by splitting the outputs into 2 groups of 3, then only connect the "out" side of the injector power into the relay board? If all of those questions above were answered, it would help eliminate the ulcer i've started up just for this project. thanks guys, alec

I have so many questions running through my head right now that it's making me stressed out just thinking about the project. Please tell me if and where i'm messing up on these steps, and please add anything you think i'm missing. I am using v 2.2 with msns-e, and a relay board, on an 81 turbo. 1. I will do tonyd's mod for the cas 2. Vref to my red 240 sx tps sensor wire 3. TPS to my white wire 4. TPS Ret to my black wire 5. Air temp sensor to punch down 16, or MAT. 6. Air temp ground to punch down 17, or MAT ret 7. same with coolant temp, but to 8. O2 to punch down 20 What amperage of fuses do i use on my relay board? the wiring daigram says 10 amp for the fuel pump, so i think i should do that, 20 amp for the main fuse (maybe 30), but the diagram says 2 amp on the way to the injectors and on the way to the main relay. does this mean that i do a 2 amp on the main and look to the 5 amp fuses for the injector banks? does it really make sense that i'm using a 5 amp behind a 2 amp? Does my tach input still come from the dizzy though i'm using an 81 turbo? what color is the wire? What wire, specifically, do i run to my fuel pump punch down (# 5 at http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/mspower_ShemV1.2.pdf ) Since i have an 81 cas, where do i run my fidle to? Am i to understand that though there are two wires for each bank (and two screw downs on the relay board for each bank), and the diagram shows two injectors, each with one wire going to it, that it will really be two wires coming from megasquirt (or in my case, 2 screw downs), going to three injectors for each bank? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106942&highlight=resistor+pack after looking at those posts, i'd like to run my origional resistor pack, but run it through mega squirt. i have no problem seeing how to do this with just the ms board, just run all 6 injectors from one power source, then separate the 6 resistors into 2 groups of three, then run three injectors off of each group of resistors, and then the ms setup grounds them to turn them on, and since i'm running a relay board, they will be grounded with 2 amp fuses. now the question comes up - i have 4 screw down terminals for the injector power, do i simply run the power side of the resistor packs into one of these screw downs? if i were to do this, wouldn't i be going above and beyond the 2 amp fuses? the only way i see this not happening is if the fuses provided by my relay board are between my megasquirt and the ground provided by the relay. what leads me to beleive that the fuses are in between the megasquirt box and the ground provided by the relay board is that the fuse terminals say "INJ1" and "INJ2", whereas the power for the injectors only say "INJECTOR +12V", they do not differentiate between the two injector bays. Can someone confirm this for me? or tell me that it makes sense at least? the worst that could happen is i'll blow a fuse or two but i'd really like to just have it work the first time. i feel like i read and read and read but i still have more questions than a dog has fleas. Thanks for all your help everyone, check back tomorrow around 2-3ish to see my progress!

I am about to start my ms install, and I have no idea if i have an IAC. the first time i remember reading about it was when i looked over my 2' wires from diy: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirt-wiring-bundle-long-p-102.html I can't find anything about an iac being in my car...

schunt?

Temporarily of course. Sorry for the long post, but I hate it when people ask really generic questions. I'm driving to Oregon for cheer practice, and at the Toledo/Vader (yeah, both stupid names for towns. I know.), my stereo shuts down. This is a problem because a. We were listening to the Apple Cup, and due to us not being able to finish the game, the Huskies lost. and b. I just installed a new alternator. My stereo shut off because it wasn't getting enough power. Which means the charging system isn't working. So we're on the side of the road, and a Washington state highway response team is driving by, he stops and jumps us, we make it as far as the offramp of that exit, and we pull off and call my uncle, who lives in Portland. Strangely, my tach, temp meter, and gas meter stopped working after we were jumped. My uncle drives up to exit 60, Toledo/Vader. (exits go 0-300 going south to north from the Oregon border). He brings us a spare battery. We put my battery in his van, put his battery in my car, and it starts up fine. We drive until the battery dies again, by then my battery has been charged by his car, so we swapped them. We did this about 4 times from the "oh crap" point in our journey. My tech question is as follows: What the heck is going on?! The only thing I can think of is: When I swapped alternators, I went to a GM alternator. The plugs were different, and I had to cut the splices off and redo them to change their configuration. (the hitachi alternator had a -| looking plug, and the GM had a -- looking one). Now the reason I replaced it in the first place is that all of the sudden my seatbelt sensor and e-brake sensor lights would just turn on, and what I beleive to be the fuel relay, just started buzzing, and this was seemingly random at first. Then it seemed to be happening at high rpm, then it just started happening all the time. Towards the end of this happening, my battery stopped charging. So I replaced the alternator, because my friend told me that the sensors just turning on sounded like my voltage regulator was going bad, because it only happened at high rpm. Then it started happening all the time, and then the batt stopped charging. I thought we diagnosed the problem thouroughly. Well when I first installed it, I took it for a ride around the block, and the same things happened; lights turning on, buzzing from under my dash board, and by the time I got back around the block, there was hardly enough power to fire the spark plugs, and the car was sputtering, all kinds of not-good things. I switched those two plugs that I mentioned earlier, the -- GM ones, and the problem stopped. So I assumed everything was fixed for my trip to Oregon. Now I know someone's gonna call me stupid for driving it to Oregon anyways, but I wanted to try it. I'm just thankful my uncle is the guy he is. Anyone have any idea what is going on? Why the charging system seemed to be working great and suddenly stopped? And why would the tach, gas meter, and temp sensor just stop working?