badjuju

so it was just a tuning problem, not a mapdot vs tpsdot issue?

mine has a - on it by default, should it be - to represent retarding? this is strange, because it says "limit retard" and it's -10 by default. I would think that a - value for retarding would be advancing... no? kinda like subtracting a - number would be adding?

wow, there's a major difference... I just put in a base soft retard based on this thread last night. thanks a ton moby, lol

Any updates on this...? Prox?

It's a nice thought and for some reason it's taking away a lot of my stress to think of posting this. I just thought I'd get on and tell what I did today in an attempt to get closer to my car starting. I have a hall effect sensor from cherry. The threads are 12mm x 1.00. I went to the local badass hardware store to buy some nuts to hold the sensor to the bracket I made to fit my stock CAS bracket on my 81 280 turbo. They had no 12x1 nuts. I was thinking of buying a smaller nut with a lot of meat to tap the nut out. Didn't have any 12x1 taps. Asked about helicoils. No 12x1 inner diameter helicoils. I walked across the street to talk to my neighbor, who restores Jenson Interceptors (if you don't know that they are, look them up, pretty sweet cars) and asked his advice. We lathed (spelling?) down a 3/4" alluminum bar to 1/2". We then threaded it using a 1/2" x 20tpi die. Next weekend when I get back from the university again I'll be milling a hole in the bar to make a tube with an inner diameter of 3/8 and an outer diameter of 1/2 with 20 turns per inch. we will stop the milling just before (and i mean just before, .009 inches) it breaches the end of the bar. I broke open the cherry effect sensor and pulled out a rubber tube with a sensor on one side and wires on the other side, which was stuck inside their stock tube. We will, when I get back, drop some epoxy in the new tube and push the rubber tube inside it, effectively making a new sensor holder for mounting the sensor. It just hit me that it doesn't bother me that my car isn't running. I worked all day today on a subproject that might or might not have any effect on the car, and might not actually work. BUT, I had fun doing it, learned a ton, got to use some actual machine shop tools, learned about some about some other cars, and got some hands on experience, good quality time working "on" my car (more like for my car, but whatever.) anyways, just wanted to say that i feel a lot closer to you guys after today because i feel i have a much better understanding of why the hell we do what we do. my dad has been telling me to sell my car and buy a reliable 4 banger for about 3 months while my car has been down for this conversion while i have researched and tried out different methods of getting her running. I guess he just has different priorities, but he will be proud of me when he feels her pull once she runs again, and i'll be proud of myself, and even more proud of my car. anyways, i feel closer to you guys due to my work today and i wanted to say that i get you a little better. someone correct me if i'm wrong on this, lol

do you have a wiring diagram for the setup?

Randy, You're saying you don't need HEI or the like? Would I still want to use HEI if I've already purchased it, or will it not work with hei?

if you're drag racing you'd want to reduce the weight on the front only, if you have enough power to break the tires off you want more traction in the rear. load the tires in front up with whatever you want, it's actually better to weight down the rear. my uncle would put calcium in his rear tires and gain better times through being able to launch at a higher rpm

That's a question i've had too, because the hei option says "7 pin hei" and my hei module is 4 pin....

Spark is greyed out because you have no spark function chosen uner Codebase and outputs under basic settings

Sorry guys, thought it would be funny, sort of an ongoing joke about some of the guys at zcar. I hope my first contribution of knowledge actually helped out a little...

I've gone through the same stuff as you are right now. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109287&highlight=relay There's how to jumper your relay, And When my box started power cycling like a tour de france biker, (hah, get it?) I found it was because I was telling it to use more than one type of ignition, (ie both hei and 36-1 wheel, or any combination) Hope this helps dude. Good luck.

K, so.... MT 2.25 Under Basic Settings then under CodeBase and Outputs I'm setting FIDLE to Spark Output A, which should be the only input/output pin I change, right? Then, I go to "Choose one Code Type", and I'm not sure which I should choose for a hall effect sensor: Distributor, Neon/420A Decoder, Wheel decoder, EDIS, EDIS Multispark, TFI, or HEI. I plan on using an HEI module, but I am going to use a 4 pin, and the only option for HEI is "7 Pin GM HEI Module"

What does mt understand cherry hall as? Where do I tell it i'm using a hall effect sensor?

I knew deep down inside there was a method to your madness...

My CAS seems to not be sending a signal of any sort. I am sick of fooling with this cas setup and I want to just swap in a different dizzy.

My EDIS setup looks as if it's going to fall through, because the custom work I would need done wouldn't be finished until 2 months after my whole setup is supposed to be up and running. It appears as though it would be better to just bite the bullet and buy an 83 dizzy and get it over with for the ignition side of things. Before I go spend $300 on a new one at campbell/nelson nissan, Is it worth it to buy a used one, what is a good price for a used one, and will an 83 turbo dizzy just drop into my 81 turbo? I'm thinking yes, but it's best to ask.

alrighty, thanks a bunch!

So what do I do to ground it? What do I put between the power wire and the ground?

It still looks to me like i'm grounding a 12v power source at ign coil #4... can someone elaborate on this, on how i might be reading it wrong?

Can you also elaborate on the workings of pin 4 of the ignition coil harness? it looks to me like 12v comes from a relay and is grounded out, but also connects to pin 4. ... doesn't seem right to me, i think i'm missing something really important.

Have you tested this stuff further, and if so, has anything failed?

Z-ya, could you draw up a diagram of this for me?

My friend tells me that with a vr sensor for edis you need a conditioning circuit. can someone explain how this works to me, and why you need it? is it anything like the +5v from the tps that is common on the CAS installs?

Well, you can just cut the wires, and make your own harness, or use the existing harness. I plan on running my new harness all the way up to the vr sensor, just because i like a clean install. I am interested in this thread also. awesome quote btw. "he let me in on his plan to have sex with her in a very uncomfortable place." "what, like the back of a volkswagen?"