badjuju

No, I only replaced 1 fuse, with a 20amp fuse. I would not just keep trading in new ones, the fuel pump is NOT the place to have a fire in a car... lol I just noticed that last one was my 100th post.

stock pump. i was thinking the same thing, just put a 20a fuse on. unfortunatly, last night i was wiring my fans up and i blew my 30 amp main fuse. over and over. so now i'm wondering what my course of action should be, i noticed a couple completely burned wires so now i've removed my whole harness. i shed a tear. i still think that starting it over is the best course of action, however now i'm wondering if my ms board still even works.

Yeah dude talk to PALLNET over at zcar.com. He puts them on all his new fuel rails but i'm sure he'd be willing to sell a new one... lemme get a link hold up [link]http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/products.htm[/link] Looks like $25 for a new liquid filled one. They are very high quality, I've got one on my new fuel rail.

I might just come off as a douchebag here, but isn't that just what a fuel pressure regulator is for? Not the primary use, I know, but it would stop fluctuations, wouldn't it?

Is this a major problem? I'm thinking that it's like with an AC current, where the device draws more and more power as time goes on? It blew when I was gunning it for one of the first times. 10amp minifuse

One more funny thing, my whole "HEI isn't sparking" thing was being caused by my pullup resistor... Once i removed the pullup it worked fine... anyone else ever experienced this?

Get this, the problem was being caused by my dwell settings. I'm running a 4 pin HEI module, and I had dwell settings to fixed duty on minimum for hei. This locked the timing at 30 btdc... I changed my dwell settings and poof.

Hey all, My engine is up and running, using msns-e, pcb 2.2, hei4, cherry hall effect sensor. I have a fixed angle of 30 degrees, trying to match the crank timing with ms's timing. My timing light shows 35 btdc, with a trigger angle of 68 degrees. My problem is, no matter what trigger angle (within reason, i haven't set it more than about 68 +- 20 degrees), the timing light reads 35 degrees! Can anyone help me out? I'm using time based crank timing, cranking advance angle is 10 degrees, hold ignition is 2.

How'd the Canby meet go?

K i now have 5 topics on the first page of the ms forum, so i'mma go ahead and post this one in one of my current topics. sorry for spamming it guys K, I read on this post: [link]http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111634&highlight=accel[/link] that i'm supposed to turn off accel enrichment in order to tune my ve tables. makes perfect sense, as the af ratios recorded during driving would be based off the tables + the enrichment settings. My question is this; how do i turn off enrichment? from what i can see the megamanual only says "setup enrichment after tuning the ve tables"

My car started last night, much to my dad's surprise. It coughed a couple times, then idled around, say 1500, with no exhaust, across echo lake, which was named for how well sound travels. The 5 or so people outside helping me did the "happy days" jump, then we decided to end the night on that note and go in and watch a movie. Just wanted to thank everyone who's helped me out. I'm sure I'll be posting all day for when I go out and it doesn't start again, lol Thanks guys. Alec Denson

1981 280zxt. Looking at the ignition module on the side of the bracket which holds the ignition coil, If you look at the T connector, I am wondering where the black wire with a white stripe goes... I have tested it to ground, and I get 25 ohms. So, i am thinking that the wire just goes to ground. Also, I'm wondering which wire (yellow with a white stripe and Black with a white strike) goes to which terminal on this picture: I cut the connector a long time ago and now i'm having trouble with which is which. My FSM is of no use on this one because it doesn't even have my ignition setup in it.

which of the two parts of the T (verticle or horizontal) does the yellow wire go into? also, where do i set the pulse width modulation of fidle, and what do i set it to?

I'm now having a serious problem with my ignition, if you could call it that. I have no spark. I have a brand new 4 pin hei module, and a brand new ignition coil. the only wires connected to the ignition coil are: + to B - to C spark plug wire going to the dizzy These have all been tested for continuity. The remaining HEI hookups are: W to ground (tested for continuity) G to FIDLE (tested for continuity back to pin 30 on MS) The G-FIDLE circuit has a 1000ohm resistor soldered into it, the other end of which is soldered into the +5v vref circuit for the tps. This has been tested and verified at 5v. I have an LED tester setup that I made using a 270 ohm resistor inline with an led, and if I run the cathode to a ground and the anode to my FIDLE circuit, I get lights, which I think is a good indication that everything up to that point is fine. What is bothering me is that I still don't have a friggin spark... Which I think means that the problem is with the connection between the module and the coil... Are there supposed to be more than those two wires attached to the coil? some sort of resistor on another one of the HEI module's hookups? is it just some setting i'm missing? here are my spark screenshots http://www.msefi.com/download.php?id=4704

Hey forrest no prob man, i made a comment a couple weeks ago that i really regretted, made a joke that no one thought it was very funny. anyways, here's an uplifting thought: the more of a bitch your car is to get running, the better it'll feel when it's done. I hope so anyways, that's what i'm counting on for my project.

He's just giving a mellodramatic answer to a mellodramatic question. "i'm surprised we even have a forum" is a stupid thing to say. what you're asking for is not a "yes" or a "no", you're looking for a "yes". what the hell good would it do you to see 300 people say "i am not running that setup"? all you need is 1 yes. I tried running my optical cas on ms pcb v 2.2 and it didn't work for one reason or another, i gave up after a lot of pita and i went to a cherry hall effect sensor. happy hunting. optical sensors aren't the most popular around here because they're a pain.

randy, can you draw me up a wiring diagram or explain how your transistor connector is wired? i'm getting sick of this hei module, i'm going to try my stock ignition module, but it's been disconnected for 3 months so i'm not sure how to wire it back up

Black gets no voltage when the sensor reads a magnet, it gets 12v when it's not reading a magnet. Something just occured to me, it might not be resetting, i think it's just turning the fuel pump on when it reads a trigger, makes sense, doesn't it? i mean otherwise how would it supply fuel... however, i'm still not getting a damn spark!

but... shouldn't there always be power to pin 24, since there's a resistor between 12v and pin 24? regardless of the switch, there would be power going to pin 24, wouldn't there? regardless, i'm off with a multimeter right now!.

I'm having trouble understanding why it would reset when it reads a magnet in front of it. My understanding of it, (correct me if i'm wrong), is when the sensor comes close to a magnet, it switches the 12v from the ground to pin 24. Since pin 24 will constantly have a 12v line with a 2.2k resistor running to it, it will have whatever amount of power running to it when there is no magnet in front of the sensor, then when a magnet goes in front of the sensor the voltage jumps to 12v, at which point ms should read that there is a trigger event. Wtf would cause it to reset when it reads a magnet?

K new update. Running a new sensor, I installed a 2.2kohm resistor in between the 12v and pin 24. The tach in megatune still comes up red. however, i have found that when i run the sensor by one of my magnets, megasquirt resets. any ideas?

I thought I'd be sneaky last night and just edit my last thread to say exactly this, but when I changed the title it didn't change it on the thread listing, so I'm posting a new thread. I just cranked for the first time using my new cherry hall effect sensor. I got no rpm reading, in fact, the rpm box was still red in megatune when i started it up. My setup for the sensor is as follows: Blue wire to ground Brown wire to 12v (from the same line that feeds power to ms when the ignition is on) black wire to tach input 1kohm 1/4watt resistor between brown and black, for a pullup. Even if it the wrong resistor or something, shouldn't it still be reading that the effect sensor is there? would a bad ground cause this? Is there something really obvious I'm missing?

I just cranked for the first time using my new cherry hall effect sensor. I got no rpm reading, in fact, the rpm box was still red in megatune when i started it up. My setup for the sensor is as follows: Blue wire to ground Brown wire to 12v (from the same line that feeds power to ms when the ignition is on) black wire to tach input 1kohm 1/4watt resistor between brown and black, for a pullup. Even if it the wrong resistor or something, shouldn't it still be reading that the effect sensor is there? would a bad ground cause this?

k now. Everytime i go hunting for the cause of a warning in "audit.txt", i get another error popping up once i've changed another. my list is as follows: WARNING(03): Value from option list "HCutLCType" = "INVALID" not found. WARNING(03): Value from option list "HCutType" = "INVALID" not found. WARNING(03): Value from option list "OvrBCutType" = "INVALID" not found. WARNING(03): Value from option list "freqDiv" = "INVALID" not found. WARNING(03): Value from option list "crankpwip" = "INVALID" not found. WARNING(03): Value from option list "pwmidlewhen" = "INVALID" not found. now, i've learned as well as any here that just flat out asking for answers isn't really the way this community works, but i figure it's worth a shot, because i feel close to getting this ish up and tunable. Does anyone know what any of these mean? "audit.txt" and searching for each individually only comes up with this thread... tia

alright duder thanks